Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie, Tubéreuse Trianon, and Oriental Sans Souci

“Yuri Gutsatz has a complex, Baroque style and he adds a little touch of something unexpected. You could say he creates unexpected twists that add a finishing touch. He was a true original.”-   perfumer Maxence Moutte

Le Jardin Retrouvé has a heritage like no other. Regarded by many as the first niche perfume house in the world, it was formed out of frustration with the 1970s perfume industry. There was a lack of transparency and a stranglehold on true creativity. Perfumers were neither named nor acknowledged and there were no opportunities for them to have carte blanche. Yuri Gutsatz was the first perfumer to make the leap in 1975, establishing Le Jardin Retrouvé from his home in Paris, ably abetted by his wife Arlette.

Yuri Gutsatz, Arlette Gutsatz and Michel Gutsatz

Fast forward to 2016, and Yuri’s only surviving son, Michel Gutsatz decided, along with his wife, Clara Feder, to keep his father’s work alive. As serendipity would have it, Michel and Clara met a fan of Yuri’s at a wedding. The fan, Maxence Moutte, also happened to be a talented perfumer with a knowledge and admiration of Yuri’s work that later made him the perfect fit for the small team. Today, the fragrances Yuri created are brought back to life by Maxence, using Yuri’s methods, often in his own handwriting. The aim is to reconstruct them authentically and bring classic French haute parfumerie fragrances to a modern audience, whilst still remaining IFRA compliant, of course. Here are three fragrances that capture the magic of this unique family house.

Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie by Kaya Bagamaz for Le Jardin Retrouvé

Cuir de Russie (1977): If there is one Le Jardin Retrouvé’s fragrance that epitomise the brand, it is Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie. In Yuri’s case it has an authenticity that outranks other Russian leathers. It is the scent memory of Russian leather from his soldier father who wore a leather strap and leather boots when he was in the Russian Army, pre revolution. It has a poignancy, since the boy who climbed onto his father’s lap was to be separated from him forever at the age of ten. You could say that Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie was Yuri’s tribute to his homeland and to his father. Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie opens with a fresh, spicy accord of aldehydes, lemon, lime and petitgrain. This airy, sky blue opening soon leads you into darker woods with clusters of violets, surrounded by cedar, styrax and ylang ylang.  The base notes are truly masterful.  As Maxence Moutte said himself “The leathery base was hard to get right”. Michel wrote to Symrise to track down the authentic ingredient. Getting the leather base correct was fundamental to the finished result. Yuri didn’t use a lot of bases, but in Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie was one of the exceptions. The base is leather, cade, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum and sandalwood. This is a leather that has suppleness, rather than a tough hide. The violets lend  whimsy that leads the way into an unforgettable woody, mossy base.

 (middle)Yuri Gutsatz, Michel Gutsatz (left) and Michel’s grandfather(top right) for w Le Jardin Retrouve Cuir de Russie honors

There is a touching symmetry to the fact that Yuri’s son, Michel, now wears Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie as a memento of his father and grandfather, too.

Tubereuse Trianon by Kaya Bagamaz for Le Jardin Retrouvé

Tubéreuse Trianon (1985): As Maxence Moutte says, “Yuri liked to add a touch of something unexpected” and in the case of Tubéreuse Trianon, you’ll find raspberry in the base note and rhubarb in the top note. Created in 1985, when fashion commanded big shoulders and even bigger hair, perfume had a kind of “wear it and be damned” feel, not unlike Joan Collins and her Dynasty couture.  Le Jardin Retrouvé Tubéreuse Trianon fitted into this moment but with a quieter Parisian chic.  With its abundance of heady white flowers, these pink tinged petals are tamed and toned by petitgrain and coriander and then bolstered up with orange flower and lily of the valley.  The many facets of tuberose are both matched and complemented by coconut, ylang ylang frangipani and that individual touch of raspberry that works so well that you wonder why more perfumers don’t do it. For me, this hopelessly romantic 1985 floral evokes enormous wedding dresses and a shy Diana Spencer in her fourth year of princess-hood. Extravagant, whimsical and tender, Tubéreuse Trianon fascinates all who swoon in her wake.

Le Jardin Retrouvé Oriental Sans Souci by Sebastien Notre for Le Jardin Retrouvé

Oriental Sans Souci (1963): Oriental Sans Souci might still be a formula in an archive had Michel and Clara not seen fit to ask their loyal online community which fragrances they should put into production. Out of four samples, Oriental Sans Souci won 47% of the vote and was duly reincarnated. Oriental Sans Souci smells authentically as if it were made fifty-eight years ago and the lid has just been opened. Unencumbered by modern trends and fads, this classic is the kind of scent no longer seen on modern beauty counters, much to the frustration of vintage perfume lovers.  Le Jardin Retrouvé Oriental Sans Souci is all about depth and layers.  With top notes of bergamot, lemon and basilic, the opening is radiant and lush before blooming into an opulent heart of roses, jasmine, ylang, ylang, neroli and vanilla. The base is a heavier affair, with a cosy sweetness from tonka and vanilla alongside a sophisticated finale from oakmoss, patchouli and grey amber. The warm, woody finish is accentuated with shafts of sharp citrus, like sunbeams through a forest canopy. It has a luxurious feel to it, as if it should be worn to the opera.

–Samantha Scriven, Senior Contributor and writer of www.iscentyouady.com

Disclaimer:  I have a working relationship with Le Jardin Retrouvé and all samples were provided by the brand. Opinions are my own.

Thanks to the generosity of Michel Gutsatz and Clara Feder of Le Jardin Retrouvé, we have a 50ml bottle of Cuir de Russie for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about the three perfumes Samantha has selected. Also please let us know if you have a favourite Le Jardin Retrouvé fragrance. Draw closes 5/18/21

Available online at Le Jardin Retrouvé, at Perfumology in the USA and at Scentbeauty

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