L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana (Courtesy of L'Artisan Parfumeur)
“Bana, Bana, bo-ana; Banana-fana fo-fana; Fee-fi-mo-mana; Bana!”
The quirky name of L'Artisan Parfumeur's latest release instantly brought Shirley Ellis's 1960s hit-song “The Name Game" to mind; it also clearly indicated that the star of this scent would be a rather challenging note for me, one that I don't usually enjoy. However, as the actual testing of L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana would confirm, one needs to always keep an open mind…
Jean-François Laporte, perfumer and founder of L'Artisan Parfumeur in 1976
In 1976, the same year he founded L'Artisan Parfumeur, Jean-François Laporte was challenged by a friend to create a banana scent to complement the fruit costume he'd wear at a Folies Bergère ball. Having noticed that ripe bananas somewhat evoke the smell of fully-bloomed jasmine, Laporte decided to macerate pieces of the fruit in a jasmine flower infusion.
Josephine Baker in her iconic “banana girdle" costume for her 1920s Folies Bergère show (Photo: Walery/Getty Images)©
The experiment failed, but it did inspire Laporte (a true artist, and founder of what we now call “niche perfumery") to explore more possibilities of pairing fruits and flowers, leading to the brand's first fragrance release in 1978: the ground-breaking modern classic Mûre et Musc. M. Laporte loved recounting the amusing banana-scent tale to friends; one of those was none other than Jean-Claude Ellena, who in later years mentioned it to his daughter, Céline. Forty-three years after the failed marriage between banana and jasmine, Céline Ellena successfully realizes that very idea, producing a technically admirable, highly enjoyable fragrance.
Independent perfumer Céline Ellena (Photo: Brice Toul)©
My initial reservation before trying L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana gave its place to sheer delight: yes, the banana certainly declares its presence with plenty of confidence, but it has none of the aspects I dislike in other scents (no cloying, sickly sweet character, or unpleasant artificiality). On the contrary, the banana note here has all the nuances I love in the actual fruit's smell: the creaminess and sweetness of a – just ripe enough to eat – fruit, balanced with the slight bitterness of its peel. Adding to the banana's deliciousness, some mild pepper and a nutmeg overload provide a spicy kick, while a hint of violet leaf enhances the naturalistic fruit note. The realistic banana effect encompasses the whole spectrum of the aromatic experience of the actual fruit, and its flower; technically speaking, it's reportedly achieved by using isoamyl acetate (an organic compound that produces the fruit's smell), along with benzyl acetate (a molecule naturally existing in jasmine, and other white flowers).
Carmen Miranda in “The Lady With The Tutti-Frutti Hat" number from “The Gang's All Here" (1943) (20th Century Fox)©
The olfactory link between banana and jasmine becomes even more evident after the first eight or so minutes, when the latter takes over in a seamless manner. After the prominent jasmine heart (aided by powdery iris) emerges, along with a progressively dynamic, sensual base of tonka, musk and amber, the generous banana opening subsides (who would have imagined that I'd actually wish for it to linger for just a little longer, in its initial majestic state!) After that point, L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana becomes a very pleasing ambery/musky scent, warm and moderately sweet, rich in spices, tonka and vanilla. As the scent becomes increasingly abstract in its long drydown, the banana exists only as an undertone.
“Banana” by Andy Warhol©, circa 1966
Céline Ellena's concept of a “baroque banana" is successfully realized in a composition of charming balance between velvety and powdery texture, playfulness and sensuality, subtlety and richness. Furthermore, the fluffy amber accord makes Bana Banana one of the few ambery scents fit to wear even in warmer days. Suave and exuberant, L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana is a delightful, fun fragrance made with considerable technical skill; it exudes originality, humor, and just the right amount of quirkiness to please those that are looking for an unusual, but widely wearable, scent. A worthy addition to L'Artisan Parfumeur’s collection, Bana Banana is in perfect tune with the brand's tradition of idiosyncratic, distinctive fragrances.
Notes: pepper, nutmeg flower, violet leaf; jasmine, iris, banana flower; tonka bean, musk, amber.
Disclaimer: I'd like to thank L'Artisan Parfumeur for my bottle. The opinions are my own.
– Despina Veneti, Editor
L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana (Photo: Despina Veneti)©
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