L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio (photo by ©Despina Veneti)
The 2016-launched, and largely underdiscussed, “Natura Fabularis” collection of L’Artisan Parfumeur has recently been revamped by the historical House and relaunched under the name “La Botanique”, with two brand new creations – 63 Crepusculum Mirabile and 25 Obscuratio – substituting two of the older ones. The perfumer behind the two new fragrances is Daphné Bugey of Firmenich (composer of the initial collection, as well), while the packaging is now illustrated by Katie Scott, who has vividly depicted the collection’s theme: nature coming alive at night. After a long smelling session at the brand’s Parisian boutique at Rue Saint-Honoré, 25 Obscuratio emerged as my favorite among all six eaux de parfum of the collection: its winsome charm and olfactive immediacy appealed to me to the point of minor addiction: I simply could not resist wearing, or layering, the fragrance for days to come.
Perfumer Daphné Bugey (courtesy of Firmenich), illustrator Katie Scott (thejoyofplants.co.uk) & L’Artisan Parfumeur La Botanique displays at the brand’s Parisian boutique at rue Saint-Honoré (photos by ©Despina Veneti)
L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio instantly captivates the wearer with an immensely pleasing blast of patchouli goodness: chocolatey, sweetly spiced, and hard to resist. The “olfactive pyramid” manifests somewhat reversed on my skin, with the expected base notes actually declaring a strong presence at “hello”, and the floral ones unfolding afterwards. Amidst the dense, but nonetheless inviting, woods emerge a rather unexpected note of ylang-ylang: in one of the most crepuscular representations of the flower I’ve ever smelled, the ylang-ylang is stripped off its sunny disposition and banana-like undertones, with the focus being placed on its carnal, sensual aspects. Even though it communicates a distinctly nocturnal feeling, the ylang-ylang of L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio is still luminous – just not by sunlight. It is instead lit by moonbeams; a gleaming, yellow vision in the middle of the night, shining its guiding light in a tenebrous forest glade. My guess is that the perfumer has used the Firmenich ylang-ylang oil, which by itself is redolent with spicy, even animalic connotations.
Nocturnal Vision (digital collage by ©Despina Veneti)
Although ylang-ylang is a prominent ingredient, the fragrance is not predominantly floral. It’s the woodiness that mostly defines the aromatic identity of L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio; that woodiness, strongly built around a multifaceted patchouli, progressively becomes more ambery and balsamic with the aid of more subdued woody notes (possibly including cedarwood), resinous and incensey touches, dulcet-toned spices (I perceive cinnamon, clove and nutmeg nuances), and the beautiful Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar: an important component of the composition, this particular vanilla contributes its own woody undertones, hints of leather and, of course, its generously gourmand, comforting aura. Overall, L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio isn’t a particularly evolving fragrance; however, it achieves (and sustains for many hours on skin) such a profoundly satisfying, utterly delightful scent, that its relatively linear character does not detract from my enjoyment of it.
Hansel and Gretel, ©Charles Robinson for “The Big Book of Fairy Tales”, 1911
Warm, dreamlike and atmospheric, L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio is an excellent choice for those seeking a substantial woody fragrance of sophisticated, maturely gourmand character. Its restrainedly delicious trail could have once more lured Hansel and Gretel into the dark forest – this time as adults, and at a safe distance from candy-embellished, sugar-covered gingerbread houses.
Official Notes: Ylang-Ylang, Vanilla, Patchouli.
Disclaimer: I’d like to thank L’Artisan Parfumeur for my bottle of 25 Obscuratio. The opinions are my own.
– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor
L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio 75ml (courtesy of L’Artisan Parfumeur)
Thanks to the generosity of L’Artisan Parfumeur, we have a draw for a 75ml bottle of L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio EdP (value: 195€/$245) for one registered reader in USA, EU or UK. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review, if you have a favorite L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrance, and where you live. Draw closes 10/15/2021
Please read Sr. Contributor Emmanuelle Varron’s review of Crepusculum Mirabile here
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