Laboratorio Olfattivo Oud in White, photo via the brand 

“This fragrance was born out of a specific request from Daniela Caon. She’d been asking me for a Jasmine Oud perfume for a long time and I found her request simply fascinating. Our goal was to combine the hypnotic and seductive power of jasmine with the multifaceted power of Oud. Julien Rasquinet, whom I have always admired, seemed perfect for this challenge. The final result is just splendid.”- Roberto Drago of KAON and Laboratorio Olfattivo

“There is no light without darkness.” This evocative phrase perfectly encapsulates the essence of Laboratorio Olfattivo’s newest creation, Oud in White. Composed by the acclaimed perfumer Julien Rasquinet, this fragrance unveils an intricate dance between shadow and light—between the sensual, hypnotic brightness of jasmine and the deep, mysterious darkness of oud.

Julien Rasquinet, photo via the brand

“I wanted to create a harmonious interplay between indolic floral notes and the bold, leathery oud. This duality creates a captivating scent that balances the wild beauty of jasmine with the depth and mystery of oud.” – Julien Rasquinet.

Julien Rasquinet (Senior Perfumer at CPL Aromas and known for his work with brands including Frédéric Malle, Creed, Amouage, and Lancôme), was the ideal choice to bring Oud in White to life. His expertise perfectly captures the delicate balance of light and shadow that defines this fragrance, blending the luminous jasmine with the deep, mysterious oud. Laboratorio Olfattivo Oud in White opens with a radiant burst of fruity and zesty top notes, creating a bright, luminous halo effect. The ripe, golden juice of pear mingles with the red, vibrant promise of raspberry, offering a flash of brightness, signaling the entrance, and drawing you in.

The fleeting brightness fades as the door closes behind, and the stage fills with the scent of smoke and burned woods, raising mysteriously in the beams of light. In steps the Diva—jasmine sambac absolute—a bloom of unmatched intensity and sensuality, flanked by her companions: the refined warmth of cedarwood and the velvety, apricot-like sweetness of osmanthus. Together, this trio begins its jaw-dropping performance, a beacon of white light rising vertically, carried by the soprano’s voice. The florals are now center stage—indolic, fleshy, and irresistibly sensual.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Oud in White

“Where there is much light, the shadow is deep.” Strong shadows grow in the presence of light, and soon after, the long fingers of oud begin to creep in. The seats of this imaginary opera house are all upholstered in leather, and as our fingers press into the worn armrests, the rich scent of leather rises, making the air thick and warm. Deep, resinous Cambodian oud intertwines with the smoky, slightly animalic touch of labdanum, creating a drydown that feels rich, textured, and irresistibly warm — like light of the sunset filtering through the texture of a suede theater curtain slowly descending.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Oud in White, photo via the brand 

A wild beauty with a deep sense of mystery—Laboratorio Olfattivo Oud in White is complex yet comfortable to wear, perfect for those who cherish the indolic brilliance of florals and the strong force of oud. It offers a sensory journey, an exploration of the spaces between shadow and light in a perfume that plays with contrasts that reveal beauty in its most captivating form. It feels like wearing your most seductive perfume, paired with your favorite worn-in leather jacket worn on top of naked skin – a scent that embodies both sensuality and a sense of absolute power.

Top Notes: Pear, Ginger Co2, Raspberry; Heart Notes: Jasmine Sambac Abs, Cedarwood Oil Virginia, Osmanthus Abs; Base Notes: Cistus Labdanum, Esterel Green Abs, Oud Al Safii, Sandalwood Oil Sri Lanka

 Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

Disclosure: A 10ml travel of Oud in White was provided by KAON, distributors for Laboratorio Olfattivo. Opinions, as always, are my own.

Please read more about Julien Rasquinet in our Young Perfumers series here. Also read (or watch) the reviews of: Vanagloria; Amberbomb; MissU; Tiglio Mirabilis; Vanhera; Nun and MyLo.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Oud in White via the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Laboratorio Olfattivo we have a bottle of Oud in White for one registered reader in the  US or EU. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Nicoleta’s review and where you live. Draw closes 10/31/2024.

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