Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne Review (Jean Jacques) + “Yesterdays ” Draw

Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne review

Annie Spratt via Unsplash background, digital edit by Nicoleta for Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne

My never decreasing (while my age is increasing) need for escapism took various forms throughout my life. At one point in my youth, besides the SF-reunions, I also deeply enjoyed traveling to made-pretend time portals… even if they were as cheesy as a local renaissance fair. So, for most of my late teenage years and young adulthood, every July, I would pack my backpack, wrap myself in one of my Stevie Nicks inspired shawls, and head over to the heart of Transylvania, to the Medieval Festival held in Sighisoara, a city that even now seems frozen in time.

Sighisoara

Gabriel Tocu photography, Sighisoara, via wikipedia

When I applied Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne on my wrist, I was hit with an unexpected and gut-churning nostalgia wave, and for a second, I was transported back in time (to a rarely accessed memory file). “Rosy retrospection” is the scientific term that refers to the psychological phenomenon of judging the past (or your past self) more positively than the present – or, simply said – nostalgia as cognitive bias. The simplification and magnification of memories help our brains store long-time memories, the same way as data compression works for computers: removes unnecessary details and/ or reframes and compiles the data to a simpler version that can be later used to reconstruct information to its initial form. De-compiling this memory and unpacking it down to the last detail: the last night of the festival, the last summer of high school.  Bonfire lights were flickering red in the town square, the crickets from the garden nearby adding a layer of more resounding silence interwoven between the pauses of the touched chords of the minstrels, my hair smelling of Rothmans cigarettes, faint traces of Magie Noire, the slightly unnerving slip and slide of the withered crown of flowers (worn auto-ironically) on my head, the coolness of the stone step I was sitting on – all the layers of a perfect bite from a Proustian madeleine: sound, spark, silence, and scent. Everything merged into that one state of the defiantly cruel type of happiness only youth can provide – feeling immortal, ever-renewing and present.

Trying to decipher and pinpoint the triggers to such a specific memory, I had the tough task of dissociating from the fact that I find Isabey Fleur Nocturne knee-weakening beautiful, sigh-inducing soothing, fainting-from-the-top-of-the-staircase-in-slow-motion sensual.

Best Gardenia perfumes

Gardenia by Elise Pearlstine, Editor

In a parallel universe, imagine a garden where all the flowers breathe in a milky sunlight, turning their luminosity so high that they all become different gleaming shades of ivory. We have a bouquet of white florals build around an opulent gardenia falling slowly over a background of delicious fruits: lush peaches and soft powdery apricots.

Best magnolia perfumes

Magnolia by Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief©

Just as in dreamy recollection of a happy memory, all the details of the perfume flow in slow-motion and senses fade and merge into one into the other, in a beautiful interplay of textures: soft – powdery petals, creamy – floral exotic flowers, fuzzy – fruity; and hues: ivory, creams, delicate pinch-yellow vanilla, blushing beiges, warm corals, soft peaches.

Isabey Fleur Nocturne

Isabey Paris promo image 

Although a white floral bouquet can seem scary and overwhelming in the summer heat, our nocturnal flower is never too much; there is an airy softness woven in its fabric that makes it feel both comfortable and elegant, the olfactive translation of a dress made out of the lightest, diaphanous and silkiest material.  Just like that perfectly made-to-measure tailored vintage dress that looks intimidatingly constrictive on the hanger, but once tried on, feels like wearing a second skin. The separate elements that form the fragrance paint a floral, solar picture, as this fragrance smells like sublimated daylight, but the overall effect is at the opposite end, as it feels nocturnal in effect. The dry down brings on a more telluric aspect with the added weight of earthly patchouli and a delicate vanilla that carries out the fruity elements to a sensual closure.

Atemporal and bewitchingly ethereal, Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne made me wish for new memories in old roaming grounds, strutting around in non-historically-accurate vintage dresses. Good thing the new Blackmore’s Night album is out right on time. Now, where are my fringed shawls?

Top notes: mandarin, apricot tree flower, and white peach; middle notes are jasmine, gardenia, magnolia; base notes are solar notes,  patchouli and vanilla

Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

Disclosure: Sample kindly provided by Isabey, opinions are my own

A note on the brand, info from the official site: In 1924, Baron Henri James de Rothschild created Isabey, and the House became rapidly known for their unique creations and precious essences in luxurious presentations. The name Isabey refers to the eponymous French painter and miniaturist, several of his works having been acquired by the Rothschilds during the 19th century. Intoxicating scents, artistic bottles and jewel-style boxes signed by Isabey were the subject of praise in the magazines of the time. The House has to close its doors in early 40’s, due to the historical events happening at the time. Brought in 1999 by Panouge Group Company, the saga of Isabey continues today, as Isabey’s Creative director, Rania Naim(also of Jacques Fath and Panouge Paris) and Perfumer Jean Jacques have collaborated to recreate the classic perfume line of the House.

Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne

Isabey Fleur Nocturne via Isabey Paris

 

Thanks to the generosity of Isabey Paris we have a 50 ml bottle of Fleur Nocturne for one registered reader in the US, EU, UK and Canada  You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Nicoleta’s review and where you live. Draw closes 6/26/2021

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @nicoleta.tomsa @isabeyparisparfums @ranyabana  @jeanjacquesparfumeur

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49 comments

  • Nicoleta’s review is stunning! Nicoleta’s thoughts really connect so much that is important today. How brilliant to begin in Sighisoara, a place known for craftsmen, a place where “nostalgia as cognitive bias” literally lives on in the stone. People are so hungry for that real craftsmanship. Houses like Isabey that can take the time & care to construct those jewel-style boxes, textures, hues, honor past connections, etc. will find their audience. I would LOVE to try this scent! Nocturnal summer ideas are the best! This phrase is so appealing, “feels nocturnal in effect.” Summer nights have that kind of magic. Jasmine, gardenia, & magnolia (would love to try). Thank you! I live in the USA.

  • Nicoleta’s review of Isabey Fleur Nocturne was also a trip down her memory lane, and in a mirroring sort of effect, I slipped into my own memories for a while, a “rosy retrospection” of sorts. Beautiful pictures, beautiful bottle, beautiful review. Very floral perfume, but nocturnal in its effect – a heady perfume as I imagine it. Thanks for the review and draw. Writing from the USA.

  • Julesinrose says:

    This review was a wonderful read!! While not generally a fan of white florals, how could I not want to wear a fragrance that is “knee-weakening beautiful, sigh-inducing soothing, fainting-from-the-top-of-the-staircase-in-slow-motion sensual?!” Wow! And I have my cognitively biased nostalgia, too, to consider, as I used to wear white flower scents all the time when I was young! In Maine, USA

  • Gabriel Garcia says:

    Great review Nicoleta!
    It really connects with me as Im going into middle age, and recollection of memory is a bonus for some people, I have gotten the wonderful ambre de carthage and its solid in my collection.
    Las Vegas NV

  • So beautiful review, Nicoletta
    White flowers in milky sunshine- sound so amazing!!!
    Love Gardenia, vanilla and patchouli!!
    US

  • Oh this review was just lovely! My mind was smelling gardenias as I walked through my own memories while reading Nicoleta’s. The description of a fitted vintage dress that fit like a second skin, reminded me of a dress I found at a thrift store when I was 17 in 1985. A white, fitted, 1950’s cocktail dress that fit me perfectly and made me feel like the prettiest girl in the room. I got it for $4.00. If I had only had Fleur Nocturne to spritz on it would have been magic! Thank you for the review. It was a happy escape for me. I would love to win this one! In the USA

  • Nicoleta says Isabey Fleur Nocturne is a fragrance of contrasts. It is a floral composition that is suited to both day and night wear. I am in US

  • It’s hard to argue with Nicoleta’s statement this perfume is knee-weakening. I love wearing white florals, especially as a man! I live in Canada.

  • joshuabrian says:

    Awesome review! The note breakdown is really nice. I think my fiancé would definitely like this one! From the USA.

  • aha, more white florals (my current quest being to acquaint myself with as many of these as possible.) and sublimated daylight feeling nocturnal sounds lovely.

    harper (usa)

  • AleksCipri says:

    Amazing review! I love the sound of Fleur Nocturne. White florals with peaches, notes that I love. But what sparks my interest the most and complements the note description is the beginning of Nicoleta’s review where she talks about things that she is reminded of when smelling this perfume. There are fragrances like that that just instantly transport you to your past and some nice memories. I’m from Illionois, US.

  • Jmmcmenamin says:

    I absolutely love this scent! Isabey is an fabulous perfume house. The review captured the way I feel about it – nostalgic.
    Located in Louisiana, USA.

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    Wonderful review! This fragrance is perfect with my vintage tailored dress.
    I am from Eu Bucharest Romania Europe

  • I love the bottle, it looks so mysterious. I wonder if the fragrance would have the same memory awajening Proustian effect in me, and where it would have teken me? As a white flower bouquet, it sounds lovely.
    I’m in EU

  • This is perhaps the article I could most relate to, ever since I have started reading Cafleurebon (and it has been a good one and a half years).
    As a Romanian myself, I wasn’t “escaping” to Sighisoara every summer during my highschool years, but to Sibiu, which is quite close, and it is another city known for its beauty, history and appeal due to the picturesque, medieval vibes.
    While I was not trying to escape through time travel specifically, my intention was the same, but through attending a heavy metal festival taking place there every summer.
    So I also wore clothes that I am definitely still remembering now, about 10-15 years later (it was quite heroic to dress in black lace and a corset at 35 degrees Celsius, I have to say that),trying to stalk my favorite musicians in the teeny tiny town (please don’t judge), but no Magie Noire or other perfume, for that matter! (the insanity started a few years later).

    About Fleur Nocturne itself…well, gardenia is one of my favorite flowers and Nicoleta described it wonderfully. If it made her weak in the knees, I am sure it would do the same to me.
    “sigh-inducing soothing, fainting-from-the-top-of-the-staircase-in-slow-motion sensual”…sigh. Poetic and, I am sure, very true.

    Thank you Nicoleta for taking also me on my own memory lane!

    Writing from the EU.

  • NituNicolae says:

    This fragrance has notes that i haven’t seen before, like gardenia, magnolia and peach. Interestingly, the name nocturnal means this does sway a bit into the warm and sexy parts of these notes. Great review. I’m in Romania, EU.

  • I walked on the memory lane along Nicoleta’s gorgeous review,so far i only tested Isabey’s Gardenia before and this Fleur Nocturne seems to be an enveloping daydream!Thanks for the review and the draw, from Romania with love!

  • chiaravirga says:

    Such a great review! Thank you for sharing with us this memory, I’m really curious to discover which memory this perfume would trigger in me!
    I adore white flowers, especially Jasmine and Gardenia, after this review I MUST try it! I’m also very intrigued by the solar notes and the nocturnal effect, sounds so beautiful.
    I would be so happy to win this! Thank you as always for the review and the great opportunity!
    Writing from Italy

  • Although a white floral bouquet can seem scary and overwhelming in the summer heat, our nocturnal flower is never too much; there is an airy softness woven in its fabric that makes it feel both comfortable and elegant, the olfactive translation of a dress made out of the lightest, diaphanous and silkiest material. Just like that perfectly made-to-measure tailored vintage dress that looks intimidatingly constrictive on the hanger, but once tried on, feels like wearing a second skin. The separate elements that form the fragrance paint a floral, solar picture, as this fragrance smells like sublimated daylight, but the overall effect is at the opposite end, as it feels nocturnal in effect. The dry down brings on a more telluric aspect with the added weight of earthly patchouli and a delicate vanilla that carries out the fruity elements to a sensual closure.

    Atemporal and bewitchingly ethereal, Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne made me wish for new memories in old roaming grounds, strutting around in non-historically-accurate vintage dresses. Good thing the new Blackmore’s Night album is out right on time. Now, where are my fringed shawls?

    Top notes: mandarin, apricot tree flower, and white peach; middle notes are jasmine, gardenia, magnolia; base notes are solar notes, patchouli and vanilla. A beautiful description by Nicoleta I am fascinated by the notes especially especially Patchouli and Jasmine being my favourite notes. A house that I am not familiar with but I am intrigued by nonetheless. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Atemporal and bewitchingly ethereal, Isabey Paris Fleur Nocturne made me wish for new memories in old roaming grounds, strutting around in non-historically-accurate vintage dresses. Good thing the new Blackmore’s Night album is out right on time. Now, where are my fringed shawls?

    Top notes: mandarin, apricot tree flower, and white peach; middle notes are jasmine, gardenia, magnolia; base notes are solar notes, patchouli and vanilla. I love the design of the bottle and the notes sound sumptuous and beautiful especially for Summer. A house that I am not familiar but curious to learn more about this house. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • kramerongo says:

    Me to want go anywhere by just back pack and leave and not just in my teen year. Flower fragrance do works well in summer heat as jasmine and mandarin and vanilla. I am in Sweden EU

  • I have never heard of this house, this sounds exquisite, especially the mix of floral and oriental notes. Hopefully I’ll get to try it sometimes, I live in Croatia, EU.

  • JulietteC says:

    Without exaggerating, my heart fluttered a little when I saw this.

    I wouldn’t be lying if I said that Isabey is my favorite brand, along with MFK, Narciso Rodriguez.

    I like houses that specialize in certain notes, as Isabey does with white flowers, Narciso with musk and MFK (in my opinion), with woody notes.

    I know almost all Isabey perfumes, right now I have a sample of the new Prends – Moi in my virtual shopping cart – the bottle is to dye for, I hope the lipsticky tones will be just as pronounced. Everything under the magical aura of tuberose – another white flower approached by Isabey, this time under the warmth of cocoa notes.

    My favorite so far is La Route d’Emeraude (so realistic), Fleur Nocturne (tender milky & peachy gardenia, so feminine), Lys Noir (so rich and sensual) and Gardenia follows them closely. They are intoxicating, rich, ideal for any season.

    My favorite part from this review (what a great piece of lecture, Nicoleta!) is this phrase: “imagine a garden where all the flowers breathe in a milky sunlight, turning their luminosity so high that they all become different gleaming shades of ivory” and, of course, as a connoisseur, I miss the medieval festival in Sighisoara, (mandatory) dressed in a themed costumes & choosing tent accommodation! What times.

    I would like to try my luck for this draw, thank you for the opportunity!

    I am based in Europe.

  • constancesuze says:

    I’ve never been to a Renaissance Fair but I’ve kind of always wanted to go. A bucket list item for sure. I haven’t tried the Isabey range, but your review does indeed make this sound knee-weakeningly beautiful. Definitely interested in seeking it out. Thanks Nicoleta!

  • Nicoleta’s review piqued my interest with her description of the white flowers. She is right about white flowers being scary in the summer, but she makes Fleur Nocturne sound absolutely dreamy. And summer is better at night anyway. And I’m always intrigued by the Rothschilds. I am in the US.

  • I liked reading about the history of the brand and Nicoleta’s memories. I would love to wear Fleur Nocturne in the evening, while walking through a white flower garden, such as Datura and Nicotiana Sylvestris. They exude their beautiful intoxicating fragrance at night. Thanks for the opportunity to sniff! Mich USA

  • Amazing review! I am intrigued by this description- love white flowers! And with apricot flowers and patchouli wll be amazing!!!
    From USA

  • First off, how impressive is it that the editors of Cafleurebon are artistic photographers? Love those floral photographs! And to find out Baron de Rothschild started a perfume house; interesting! And now that long- shuttered perfume house has been re-invented? Wonderful! There is so much we owe to the past that should not be tossed away as old news. Fleur Nocturne sounds fabulous and right up my alley. Thank you for making us aware of this perfume house and fragrance and thank you all for the draw! I am in the US.

  • What a beautiful review, Nicoleta! Your words and the name of the perfume only would make be blind buy it in a second:)
    Your nostalgia and description of the places and smells and feelings is something I understand completely, sharing I guess more or less the same generation (I too spent some medieval/blurry/full of charm nights in Sighisoara at a certain time in my life).
    This being said, white flowers are a favorite of mine and the combination here seems to be exciting.
    I would love to try this one.
    Thanks for the giveaway. I am from RO, EU

  • Thank you for the review Nicoleta! What sparked my interest from the review was the description of textures and hues. Not something you read about often when someone describes a fragrance, so that was really wonderful. Thank you for the draw from Canada!

  • macaroni023 says:

    Big thank you to Nicoleta for sharing her memories and such a lovely review, it’s was pure please to read it. For me the hole review and Nicoletas story sparked the image of soft warm night breeze in small garden somewhere hidden behind old walls of Verona!!! I would love to try Fleur Nocturne.
    Thanks for the draw, I’m from EU

  • What an interesting combination of notes. I love peach and have been looking for something that features that scent. Thank you for introducing me to this. In maryland

  • I’ve tried a couple of Isabey fragrances and enjoyed them but I don’t remember trying Fleur Nocturne. White florals are a summer pleasure for me, so I’m sure that I would like it. Nicoleta’s description and explanation of nostalgia are also very compelling, as I’m prone to small episodes of it myself. I’m in the US and I appreciate the draw.

  • GennyLeigh says:

    What a lovely combinations of notes. It sounds very feminine and perfect for warmer weather. I love white flowers like gardenia and magnolia and the peach and patchouli sound like a great complement. Nicoleta’s reviews are so poetic. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • We all came from childhood. And I hope that will find perfect perfume for me, it is great that you found this exciting house and this perfume in particular. I am from CT, US.

  • Claumarchini says:

    I enjoyed Nicoleta’s review thoroughly: the “fainting-from-the-top-of-the-staircase-in-slow-motion sensual” expression amused me immensely, it is really spot on! I actually have the sample of this beautiful fragrance, received by Jovoy as a complimentary item from a purchase, but I hadn’t tried it yet so I rushed to my perfume drawer (where I keep all the samples and mini sizes) and put it on. And it is indeed a beautiful scent, with the gardenia in the spotlight…really evocative, as Nicoleta beautifully explains in the first part of the article. I didn’t know the story of the brand, I love this blog it really gives so much insight and information on the history of perfumery: thank you so much !!! Greetings from Italy

  • I love white florals; even in the summertime! Gardenia is just such a beautiful scent and I love how the fragrance is described as “there is an airy softness woven in its fabric that makes it feel both comfortable and elegant, the olfactive translation of a dress made out of the lightest, diaphanous and silkiest material. ”
    I’ve never tried any fragrance from this perfume house but this one sounds like a wonderful one to start with.
    I live in the USA.

  • doveskylark says:

    I enjoyed reading about Nicoleta’s memory of the Medieval Festival in Sighisoara and was amazed that Isabey’s Fleur Nocturne brought forth so many memories. I also enjoyed learning about nostalgia as cognitive basis and rosy retrospection. I do that. Maybe I don’t mind removing bad memories from the past. I want to dwell where madeleines live in memory.
    I live in the USA.

  • I enjoyed the reminiscing attitude of this review. I would love to gift this bottle to my mother since she is very much a ‘white flowers’ kind of person and I think this would smell amazing on her! Thank you for the draw. I am from Canada.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank for the beautiful review Nicoleta.

    I love fragrances that take you somewhere else. For me that is Guerlain Habit Rouge and Caron Pour Un Homme. Something abut those scents just mesmerize me.

    Haven’t smelt this house before but I would love to.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Thank you Nicoleta. This was an epic review done in your great style. I like how Fleur Nocturne transported you back in time and hit you with nostalgia. I’ve had that experience once where a fragrance distinctly reminded me of someone I hadn’t seen in a couple of decades :). I’m in USA

  • I’m in the US and when Lord & Taylor was clearing out I hesitated too long to get this one. I loved Nicoleta’s imagery using textures to describe the notes. I find the way that our brain stores memories to be fascinating. We have this amazing brain and it is still so prone to errors in memory and our remembering has a way of tweaking those memories even more so that we move gradually farther from the truth of the past. Wonderful, thought-provoking review. Thank you!

  • Michael Prince says:

    I enjoyed Nicoleta’s review of Isabey Fleur Nocturne. A beautifully recreated classy and contemporary white floral with some touches of vanilla and patchouli. I am glad this company was bought out and re-released this treasure. Nicoleta has captured my attention with detailed, clear, and concise review. I am from Ohio, USA.

  • This one sounds absolutely beautiful. The white florals over the fruits, vintage but modern at the same time. The time portal analogy is appropriate indeed! I live in the USA. Thanks for the giveaway.

  • wandering_nose says:

    Ah, Nicoleta’s review brought me back to my teen years when I was dressing in super exaggerated Wrangler jean flares and tight floral tops, listening to psychedelic and progressive rock and willing to do whatever it takes to recreate the original flower power style. The fragrance must be absolutely out of this world, both like creamy daylight and mysterious night. I absolutely adore the notes, and the patch and vanilla grounding the ephemeral florals sound heavenly. Thank you from Ireland, EU

  • I love the concept of Fleur Nocturne, can’t get enough of creamy white florals, argh! Nicoletta killed it with the Blackmore’s Night reference too. We want more sweet and smooth fragrances! So tired of edgy ones, but then again I’ve always been a lightweight. Greetings from Greece!

  • Nicoleta’s wandering between times captivated all my attention. 🙂 It seems that enjoyment of a present moment might be more intensive when is connected with our memories. According to Nicoleta’s brilliant reviews, Fleur Nocturne seems to connect the complex dualities and offers a fresh interpretation.
    Greetings from Slovenia.

  • Love the beautiful bottle The notes perfect for Summer. Love the story behind the fragrance. Summer nights Definitely would love to smell this fragrance. USA

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    So beautiful review, Nicoletta
    White flowers in milky sunshine- sound so amazing!!!
    Love Gardenia, vanilla and patchouli!! From PA,
    US