House Of Gray Bohemia, House Of Gray Layebana, House Of Gray Paradisus Review + Bottled Memories Draw

Liz Rose of Avé Parfum ©

House Of Gray, a new perfume collection by Creative Director Elizabeth Rose will make its debut in November 2018. Elizabeth (Liz) Rose is the creator of the online fine perfume shopping platform Avé Parfum, and working with 2016 Art & Olfaction Best Artisan Perfume Award winners, brothers Eugene and Emrys Au of Auphorie Perfumes, they’ve unveiled three new perfumes which I suspect will be getting quite a bit of notice.

Eugene and Emyrs Au of Auphorie

Working with Liz’s personal memories and family histories, these three new offerings are a very personal and beautiful glimpse into Liz Roses’ childhood and family of origin.

House of Grey Bohemia ©

I begin with House Of Gray Bohemia, since that’s the one that caught my attention when the perfumes were announced in September. Liz Rose and I share a few commonalities; we are both San Franciscans who moved to the “country” in search of quieter and more interesting lives, and we each have roots in Bohemia (now the western part of the Czech Republic.) Although the more pedestrian meaning of “Bohemian” is described as “A socially unconventional person, especially one who is involved in the arts", to both Liz and I the meaning goes much deeper than that. It speaks to our ancestry. My Dad was born and raised smack-dab in the middle of Bohemia; in the city of Plzeñ (World famous as the home of Pilzner beer.) So hearing about a fragrance called Bohemia spoke right to my heart. Actually it shouted. Loudly. The opening of House Of Gray Bohemia took me right back to Tanta Erna’s house in San Francisco. Tanta Erna was my Great-Great Aunt, and her house always smelled of the herbs and spices used in Czech cooking and the forest regions and orchards outside of Plzeñ. The first dabs of Bohemia are rife with apple notes and the caraway of her delicious pickled pot roast dinners (called Svíčková Na Smetanã), the other herbs and spices make themselves known, backed and mingled with a clear cedar note, and the birch and pine create a feeling of camping in a deep green forest. The civet adds a great animalic background, you’ll barely notice its presence but you will feel the plush roundness it brings to the perfume. All the notes are so expertly blended that upon application, I felt like I was back in my Aunt’s bedroom opening the cedar Hope chest at the foot of her bed which held all her precious memories of her carefree childhood in Czechoslovakia. I love “scent-memory” fragrances, and House Of Gray Bohemia went right to my heart. Notes: ​Apple blossom, caraway, coriander, thyme, rosemary, marjoram, basil, rose, birch, silver pine, cedar, opoponax, myrrh, civet

 

House Of Gray Layebana

Memories of Liz Rose’s beloved Philippine Grandmother Victoria were the genesis of  House Of Gray Layebana, specifically her "lola" (grandmother in filipino) reverse-smoking a Yebana “chorrito”, a fairly common practice throughout certain parts of Asia whereby the cigarette is placed lit-end in the mouth ensuring that a stander-by gets little if any secondary smoke. Drawing on other scents common to her lola’s home in the Philippine province of Pampanga, House Of Gray Layebana is essentially a fragrance centered around the sampaguita flower, a sub-species of jasmine found there, and sweetened with the creamy milky notes of pastillas de leche candy, and the smoky wisps of elemi, a tree sap akin to frankincense with it resinous notes.

worthpoint.com

The tobacco and jasmine combine to create an almost sweet pipe tobacco fragrance, but with all the harsh edges removed by the vanillic attributes of the pastillas candy. The elemi creates a slightly smoky and ambery base which beautifully supports the whole composition. The overall feeling is of a night blooming jasmine, but with a floralcy that’s soft as a grandmother’s skin holding a newborn grandchild in her arms in a moonlit tropical garden. Notes:  tobacco, sugar, sampaguita (Philippine Jasmine), pastillas de leche (Philippine sweet milk confections), elemi

I love iris perfumes, and have enough various iris scents to last a lifetime or two. I don’t NEED another iris perfume! That’s not true actually, because in the words of the Queen of Pop Britney Spears; “Oops, I did it again…”, and  House Of Gray Paradisus is firmly ensconced on my “must-have” list. At its heart  House Of Gray Paradisus is a down and dirty iris, and by dirty I mean “in the dirt”, because the soil note in this concoction is a true humus note, like pulling up iris bulbs from a garden to winter-over in a cool garage. The fresh air note adds an almost petrichor vibe, like gardening in a cool foggy mist. The pure orris butter keeps the powder down-to-earth, allowing the iris to really shine without straying into a lipstick or cosmetics feeling. The oakmoss with its slightly fusty and bitter-ish scent adds a furry green leaf, and the palo santo wood lends a mellow spiritual-bordering-on-holy sensation. Liz describes it this way: “Time immemorial. May be worn as an olfactory amulet. The slate is wiped clean again. An earthy, elegant and emotionally uplifting fragrance.” I could not have said it better. Notes: Powder, orris butter, oakmoss, fresh air, soil, palo santo

Note: Through her Avé Parfum website, Liz Rose represents niche and artisan perfumes from around the world that are crafted by conscientious perfumers who have made the commitment never to use cruel animal musks in their products, and her new House Of Gray scents are no exception. House Of Gray fragrances are available exclusively on Avé Parfum

Disclosure: Thanks so much to Liz Rose for the samples. The opinions are my own.

-Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor

Thanks to Elizabeth Rose of Avé Parfum, we have two draws for two readers.  First up is one 30 ml. bottle of your choice for one winner, and secondly a sample set of all three perfumes for another winner. These draws are for registered readers in the USA, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about House Of Gray Bohemia, House Of Gray Layebana, House Of Gray, and if you would  what you would like to win the bottle or sampler. Is there one that you find the most appealing? Draw closes 10/30/2018

 We announce the winners only on our website so like Cafleurebon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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32 comments

  • Maya says:

    I love Liz Rose’s Avé Parfum. It’s where I discovered Marina Barcenilla Parfums. Her work is wonderful. The brothers Au create some incredible perfumes, so I’m sure the fragrances they made for Liz Rose are lovely. I like the idea of tying two of the perfumes to family history but I would want House Of Gray Paradisus, the olfactory amulet. USA.

  • INYA says:

    Thanks for introducing me to another great brand. I loved the history behind these fragrances. I cannot choose, they all sound inviting, so the sample set would be welcomed, if I’m lucky. USA

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    These all sound wonderful, and I’m excited that they were a collaboration with the Au brothers! I love my bottle of Zen which they created. It’s fantastically green, but in a much juicier way than other green perfumes. My roots also originate in western Czech Republic, so i loved reading the notes in that one, but the one I’d love to try the most would be Paradisus. I love iris with a passion. Thanks for introducing us to another great line. I’m adding this one to my list! I’m in the USA.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Auphorie founders have made some great perfumes and I have their first version of Miyako in original bottle because it was phased out.

    I am most intrigued by House Of Gray Paradisus because I love a well-done iris and I don’t think i have smelled a perfume that could be considered dirty iris perfume. I wonder how the execution turned out in Paradisus. I am in US.

  • cressit says:

    What a wonderful concept Ms. Rose had to explore her ancestry through scent. And to work with Eugene and Emrys Au makes it even better. I felt I could smell the Gray Layebana as Robert was describing it. Tobacco smoke, sweet milk, sampaguita, elemi – I love them all. I would be so happy to have a bottle of it. I am in the US. Thank you.

  • Tamra says:

    I enjoyed this review of House of Gray. I like that these fragrances were inspired by scent memories of ones heritage. I think the fragrance House of Gray Bohemia especially appeals to me because of such notes as apple blossom, coriander, pine, myrhh, and others. It reminds me of some special childhood memories of mine that were shared with loved ones. I live in South Dakota.

  • Chose says:

    Wonderful review. I am intrigued. The apple, spices and herbs of the House of Gray Bohemia conjures memories of comfort. Therefore making it my choice if I should win. . The caraway seeds are what sold me on the idea of this scent. I’ve love them. I imagine it to be a great fall and winter fragrance. USA

  • Harbinger says:

    The story behind the brand is what appeals to me as well as the fragrances so beautifully described. I would love to try all of them as they all appeal to me so if I would be lucky enough to win I would choose the sample set. USA

  • lacynylons says:

    Being filipina, Layebana for me! I haven’t smelled Sampaguita in a long time. Would be nice to win a 30 ml bottle of it, or even a sample set. – NY

  • audesko1 says:

    Thank you so much Robert for the interesting article. House of Gray sounds amazingly beautiful. All three scents are very nostalgic with memories of grandmothers and family. I would love to try a sample set. Thank you for the chance to try. I live in the US.

  • Steve A says:

    This is a new house for me. My choice for draw would be the “down and dirty iris” of Paradisus. US

  • SuzanneS says:

    As someone with Bohemian ancestry myself, I cant wait to try Bohemia. Im so glad she is releasing her own line with Au. Ave Parful has been lovely to deal with. USA,

  • NiceVULady says:

    I would love to win the bottle of Bohemia. The notes and Robert’s description sound like something that I would really enjoy. What a great introduction to me of this house. thanks for the draw. I’m in the US

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    Wonderful review
    Great review as usual
    Id love to try this an, It appeals the notes and presentation.

    Miami Florida Thanks

  • Tom Schroeder says:

    My first order from Avé Parfum was Auphorie Miyako, since that online store was the only place I could find it available. And what a nice online experience is was, with quick delivery and great samples. Composed by Eugene and Emrys Au, Miyako is one of the most beautiful osmanthus accords ever composed and I have to admit, now the most beautiful perfume in my collection.

    So it is quite exciting that Liz Rose is creative director of a new line, guiding and working with the Au brothers on her vision. I am hoping that her direction provides a clear focus to create a few more magnificent offerings from them. I would love to have all three of the new perfumes, but based on this article would blind buy bottles in this order: 1) House of Gray Bohemia, 2) House of Gray Paradisus, and 3) House of Gray Layebana. The Au’s clearly know how to make seamless blends, so the description of Bohemia is the most compelling to me. But if they do for Iris by blending earth notes and palo santo, like they have done for Osmanthus using yuzo in Miyako, then Paradisus could become another holy grail perfume for me.

    I live in California, USA. Thanks for the draw!

  • cwoody says:

    I would choose Gray Layebana because it sounds lovely and is a perfect fragrance for this time of year. Arkansas, USA

  • Hasib says:

    First time hearing of this House and this iris fragrance sounds good. It’ll be nice to use it for fall and winter. Would like to go with the bottle of choice. Thanks, U.S.

  • Harlod1557 says:

    It seems like this whole House of Gray Line is going to be fantastic. Bringing in the award winning Au duo was a great call. Bohemia has quite the note list. It seems like they used the whole spice drawer on this one. Layebana has a simpler note layout but using these pastillas de leche candies is a very peculiar idea. While both of these sound very interesting, Paradisus really calls out to me. The dirty iris with oakmoss and the smell of fresh air after a rain sounds amazing.

    Arizona, United States

  • Alen says:

    I would go with Bohemia since for me the notes listed are just great. So yeah, i would love to win a bottle of Bohemia. Thanks for this draw, Oakland US.

  • Zibbyz says:

    Ooh, the layebana sounds yummy, as does the Paradis us! Decisions, decisions. I like the mention of petrichor as a note, so I think i would prefer the house of gray Paradisus, i would be happy with the sample set if I’m a second winner. Thank you for the draw! In the us

  • AdrianR says:

    All three have fantastic notes, House Of Gray Paradisus really jumps out at me. Then again, so does ” a sub-species of jasmine found there, and sweetened with the creamy milky notes of pastillas de leche candy.”
    Looking forward to their release. I am in New York.

  • jeremyn87 says:

    Bohemia sounds unusual with apple being paired with the herbaceous and spicy notes, and the civet giving some texture. Layebana sounds almost like a gourmand pipe tobacco with the confectionary notes, especially since it might have a milky or creamy quality to it. Paradisus sounds more in the vein of a classic dirty chypre, and the iris doesnt sound so modern. I’d be most interested in the Layebana though, since that appeals to me most.

    Im in the US. Thanks for the draw

  • Vahagn says:

    Thank you Robert for this interesting review.
    It was interesting to know Liz’s personal memories and how its became to perfume.
    All 3 perfumes sounds very nice blended.
    But mostly I liked Layebana- tobacco and jasmine with elemi–soungs beautiful.
    I would like to win Layebana.
    US

  • Diana D says:

    This sounds like a lovely perfume house! I love the sound of jasmine and frankincense together. It really sounds like an intriguing scent!
    I live in the US.

  • JenD says:

    I am so excited for this launch! Layebana in particular appeals to me; I really loved Auphorie’s Eau de Nyonya with its unconventional gourmand facets, so I’m definitely interested in the pastilles de leche accord. I’m in the US. Thanks for the chance!

  • Onyinye says:

    Layebana is really most interesting to me because it has “sub-species of jasmine found there, and sweetened with the creamy milky notes of pastillas de leche candy, and the smoky wisps of Elemi”.

    All the notes mentioned are really interesting and I’m sure they smell wonderful. I would love to win the bottle of House of Gray Paradisus because it’s beautiful.

  • Catanosmia says:

    These all sound interesting but I think Paradisus calls to me the most. I like the sound of a dirty iris that doesn’t go “lipstick” like so many iris scents tend to go. I’d choose a bottle of Paradisus if I won but I’m certainly putting all three on my need-to-sniff list! Thanks for the article and the draw.

  • helenlam says:

    Thanks for the review! I’m liking the Layebana with the milky sweet but tobacco and resin counterplay. I also love the stories behind the scent…the memories or feelings the perfumer is trying to evoke.

    I’d love to win the bottle of Layebana, but would also be open to the sampler set too.

    I’m in the US.

  • doveskylark says:

    I just loved that these reviews brought up memories of grandmothers. Not a day goes by that I don’t remember my grandparents. I can still smell the interior of their houses. Bohemia with its apple and caraway note really appeals to me.
    I would chose the sampler.
    I live in the USA.

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    It appeals the notes name and bottles. Id love to win a bottle.
    Great review as usual Miami Florida Thanks

  • Richard Potter says:

    These sound fabulous, Robert. Apples and caraway, iris and petrichor. Must try. I especially crave tha Paradisus. USA