Hiram Green Vetiver photo courtesy of Hiram Green©

 

Unforgettable
In every way
And forever more
That’s how you’ll stay
That’s why, darling, it’s incredible
That someone so unforgettable
Thinks that I am unforgettable too. ~ Gordon Irving, lyrics to Unforgettable

Hiram Green with his Art and Olfaction award 

Unforgettable: in such a manner award-winning natural artisan perfumer Hiram Green (2019 Art and Olfaction Award winner for Hyde) depicts his vision of Hollywood’s Golden Age in his latest composition Vetiver. To quote Hiram: “This spicy and woody fragrance is what we imagine heartthrobs of Hollywood’s  Golden Age smelled like: elegant, charming, yet vigorous and adventuresome.” As an avowed vetiver lover I couldn’t agree more; currently it’s on my list for Best of 2021.

Vetiver via wiki

Vetiver was among the first natural materials which I encountered along my own fragrant path, beginning in my teens – and it was love at first sniff. I dreamed about wedding it to cyclamen, violet leaf, cucumber aldehydes, roses, violets, broom, rosewood, wild mushrooms or myrrh. I love it when combined with sparkling citrus notes, in chypre bases and in ruh khus attars, when it is distilled with sandalwood. Over the years I’ve made it my goal to experience as many variants as possible, and as many fragrances as I could in which it was a dominant component. When Hiram Green’s Vetiver became available, I was thrilled to receive a sample.

 

Top: Cary Grant in I am no Angel, Greta Garbo by Edward Steichen, Paul Newman/Sidney Poitiers in Paris Blues, Middle: Hiram Green Vetiver via Hiram Green, Bottom: Marlene Dietrich via Time Magazine, Gregory Peck in Valley of Decision and Louise Brooks in Pandora’s Box collage by Michelyn©

When I reflect upon old-school, golden age Hollywood ‘leading man’ elegance and charm, I most identify with Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra and Rock Hudson among the images shared by the perfumer on Instagram. To that I would unhesitatingly add Gregory Peck, Sidney Poitier, Paul Newman and several others. As regards the women, our perceptions differ: it is challenging for me to envision either Rita Hayworth or Marilyn Monroe sporting Hiram Green Vetiver – but I can easily imagine the likes of Marlene Dietrich, Garbo or Louise Brooks smoldering in such a spicy, smoky perfume. It takes a person with a very strong sense of identity to do justice to a bold, suave fragrance like Vetiver – and merely being well-dressed or handsome (applies to all genders!) is not sufficient. Some actors smell floral to me, animalic or resinous/ambery; others clearly feel like classic eaux de colognes or fougères. Anyone wearing Hiram Green’s latest perfume appears simmeringly sophisticated, intelligent. In my view there is a distinctly well-bred sultriness born of smoke, innuendo and even sexual ambiguity which surrounds it – as well as a hefty dose of mystery.

Fred Astaire in Top Hat 1945

Hiram’s employment of two different vetivers showcases their varying facets: Javan vetiver possesses a soft smokiness, a subtly animalic and sweetly boozy quality adorned with menthol/chocolate tones. Haitian vetiver tends to be deep, rich and grassily verdant with citrus notes. This complex balsamic heart is framed by an aromatic tonic citrus and fresh ginger introduction, sly and lively. Vetiver’s self-possession is ensconced in the woody warmth of cedar and musky/woody/ floral arms of vegetal ambrette.  Vetiver, cedar and ambrette in concert evoke a leathery sensibility which is as polished and soigné as Fred Astaire’s kid gloves, and just as gracious. Whether one wishes to swashbuckle, tap or high-step their way into your heart, Hiram Green Vetiver is a fine way to inaugurate the adventure, an unforgettable green.

Notes: citrus, ginger, Haitian and Javan vetiver, cedarwood, ambrette seed

Hiram Green Vetiver sample kindly provided by the perfumer – it’s marvelous, thank you!  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

 

Hiram Green Vetiver courtesy of Indigo Perfumery

Thanks to the generosity of Ann Bouterse, owner of Indigo Perfumery, we have a 50 m bottle of Hiram Green Vetiver for one registered reader in the USA only. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please comment upon what appealed to you in Ida’s review of Hiram Green Vetiver and which Old Hollywood movie star could you envision wearing Hiram Green Vetiver. Do you have a favorite Hiram Green Perfume? Draw closes 6/30/21

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