Hermès Doblis Review (Guy Robert) 1955 and (Jean-Claude Ellena and François Robert) 2004 + Perfume Unicorn Draw

 

Perfumer Guy Robert

 image of Guy Robert who composed Hermès Doblis in 1955 courtesy of Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World

“We are like painters: some use simple colors, others prefer sophisticated ones. It’s the result that matters.” ~ Guy Robert, Les Sens du Parfum

I suspect that most of us perfumaholics harbor specific cravings for the rarest, most unaffordable and nigh-impossible-to-acquire Perfume Unicorns; it’s only human nature, perverse creatures that we are. One of my beloved unattainable unicorns is Hermès Doblis – of which I was able to procure a minuscule sample (for which I paid a pretty penny). I regret not putting myself into debt at the time for the exquisite 2004, limited-to-a-thousand-bottles-worldwide reissue authored by Maîtres Jean-Claude Ellena and François Robert (son of legendary perfumer Guy Robert). When a trusted lifelong friend at Boston’s Neiman Marcus reached under her cabinet and took out the parfum flacon for me to sniff, my eyes rolled back in my head. She had been given a ‘great deal’ as an Hermès representative. In those days $400.00+ was an exorbitant amount of money for a working mother with two young school-age children, and I couldn’t justify such a frivolous expense. Today the same item goes for well over $2,000.00 – if you can actually locate a bottle. Ah, hindsight is always 20/20.

Hermes Doblis Vintage 1955 by Guy Robert was a limited reissue iin 2004 composed by Francois Robert and Jean Claude Ellena

Guy Robert, Francois Robert, Jean Claude Ellena, 2004 Doblis, Qu’importe le flacon Hermès carre designed by Catherine Baschet and reissued  in early 200s from Michelyn’s Collection 

In 1955, master perfumer Guy Robert composed the original Hermès Doblis, a point of departure from which his professional career skyrocketed. A fourth-generation perfumer, he was educated in Grasse but moved to New York City after WW II to learn from his Uncle Henri Robert– who had created Chanel No. 19, Cristalle, Chanel Pour Monsieur and Coty’s iconic Muguet des Bois. Guy went on to create many beauties: Calèche, Equipage, Madame Rochas, Amouage Gold and Cristal, Gold Man, Dioressence, and Gucci No.1, among others. His son François has done his father proud – especially beloved for his creations for Les Parfums de Rosine and Lanvin Vetyver. When Maître Jean-Claude Ellena was appointed house perfumer for Hermès in 2004, he and François Robert composed the only reissue of Doblis to date. It was every bit as divine as the original, and oh so scarce.

 

 2000s reissue of Cuivereries Francoise De La Perrier 1963 from Michelyn’s collection detail

“Un parfum doit avant tout sent bon”: a perfume must, above all – smell good. ~ Guy Robert

On this point I heartily concur with the master. I am able to be objective when experiencing fragrances, capable of viewing them as distinct art forms, experimental projects, from any number of angles – but when it comes down to committing them to my own flesh, I want to enjoy them. I don’t view myself as a science experiment: I want to luxuriate in something which smells heavenly and makes me feel like a goddess. Hermes Doblis (whether in vintage eau de cologne or parfum of either vintage) does just that. As leather chypres go, it is in a class with vintage Diorling; impossibly suave, buttery-golden and eloquently elegant. Hermes Doblis would make a marvelous signature for anyone who revels in a charmeuse-textured chypre glowing against the skin that makes you feel unique au monde. It is the softest, most supple leather imaginable rendered with savoir faire.

Best Hermes runway looks

Hermes 2006 Couture runway courtesy of Hermes©

When cost is no object and you are framing breathtaking jasmine and rose absolutes, why not bookend them with chamomile, thyme and coriander on one end and smoky, mossy depths on the other? I’m extremely fond of herbal notes married to florals in a chypric setting; to my nose, they help create something effortlessly beautiful and naturalistic. This is the case with Hermès Doblis, and one of the myriad reasons why it is so pleasurable and comfortable to wear. As each of the elements interweave, you encounter a classic (yet never boring) base embroidered with dusky labdanum and a lightly smoky vetiver evoking leather, a satiny sandalwood and subtle musks. I’m reasonably certain that there also aldehydes present; they bestow lift and space to this radiant perfume. At no stage in Doblis’ development is there heavy-handedness, overdosage, cudgeling, cloying – and due to the eras in which both original and reissue were composed, development is a blessed plus; linearity was not as popular or prevalent as it is currently. One has the luxury of being led down a path where mystery intersects with graceful sumptuousness in an illuminated display upon the fleshly canvas.

For me, Hermès Doblis will always be that unattainable golden leather of the gods.

Notes: chamomile, coriander, thyme, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, leather, moss, musk (sandalwood, labdanum and vetiver listed on a French tester bottle)

sample of vintage parfum and eau de cologne purchased by me. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Art Direction: Michelyn

Thanks to a friend of a team member we have 1 ml of 2004 Hermes Doblis for a registered reader anywhere in the world. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you thought of Ida’s reviews of and where you live. Draw closes July 8, 2021.

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22 comments

  • Jill says:

    Spot on, as always, Ida. This is the one that got away for me, as well. I once had a sample of the original, and I am pleased to say I wore it all up. When it was reissued, I was fortunate to find someone reselling a mostly full bottle in a hurry, and I sprang for it. It was a lot of money for me – so very dear. I wore it a few times, sold a couple of small decants, and then found myself unemployed. The rest of that Doblis had to go. It was a very sad day, but we do what we must, no? I’d welcome the opportunity to smell even a smidge of it again!!

  • drjedi says:

    Loved the history and description of Hermes Doblis by Ida. This seems to be a lovely perfume, and I relate to the feelings of having liked a perfume, even bought it and used it up, or not having bought it due to its exorbitant price tag, and then a few years later scrambling to get a whiff of it somehow. eBay hounds (business savvy people, I mean 🙂 ) know this pattern, and sell the almost extinct perfumes at even bigger price tags. So it is very kind of Cafleurebon to offer this draw. Thanks also for the nice review. From USA.

  • Gabriel Garcia says:

    I’m thankful for this review of unique history as my late father wore Equipage, those scents still cast a large shadow in some of us, Im not familiar with Doblis.
    Thanks again.
    Las Vegas nv

  • Jacquie says:

    I have read about Hermes Doblis awhile back on Basenotes. It is considered one of the best perfumes ever by Hermes at least the 1955. In 2004 $400 was a lot of money for a perfume now look it’s like normal for niche mediocre fragrances
    Appreciate the history of Guy Robert and the art too
    USA

  • mdellaroc says:

    I wish I knew more about this scent. I am very new to the fragrance game, but I am learning a lot I love labdanum and chypre scents. In maryland.

  • Stevie Wilson says:

    Ida’s review was both a walk back in perfume history yet she made it seem like it was a couple of years ago. By making the scent sound so delicious, it makes one wish someone would relaunch this scent in the original formula.
    I have had cases fragrance fervor after reading Ida’s commentaries before but this is the best commentary I have read that includes a breakdown of the scent and historical perspective of the “noses”.
    I find that whatever Ida Meister reviews definitely catches my attention and has me longing for that scent.
    My biggest problem is when I read some of these commentaries, I try to add that product (even if only a tiny vial) to my collection (and that collection is 2 dresser drawers FULL of fragrance).
    All I can tell you now is that I am in love with the notes as featured in this “Perfume Unicorn” of Hermès Doblis,

  • maps says:

    I loved this review. The elegant writing perfectly captures that feeling of finding the perfect perfume. I wish I could go back in time and buy her that one-in-a-thousand bottle that she smelled! She deserves it. Thanks for another great review. Cheers from North Carolina, USA.

  • Amaziz89 says:

    When cost is no object and you are framing breathtaking jasmine and rose absolutes, why not bookend them with chamomile, thyme and coriander on one end and smoky, mossy depths on the other? I’m extremely fond of herbal notes married to florals in a chypric setting; to my nose, they help create something effortlessly beautiful and naturalistic. This is the case with Hermès Doblis, and one of the myriad reasons why it is so pleasurable and comfortable to wear. As each of the elements interweave, you encounter a classic (yet never boring) base embroidered with dusky labdanum and a lightly smoky vetiver evoking leather, a satiny sandalwood and subtle musks. I’m reasonably certain that there also aldehydes present; they bestow lift and space to this radiant perfume. At no stage in Doblis’ development is there heavy-handedness, overdosage, cudgeling, cloying – and due to the eras in which both original and reissue were composed, development is a blessed plus; linearity was not as popular or prevalent as it is currently. One has the luxury of being led down a path where mystery intersects with graceful sumptuousness in an illuminated display upon the fleshly canvas.

    For me, Hermès Doblis will always be that unattainable golden leather of the gods.

    Notes: chamomile, coriander, thyme, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, leather, moss, musk (sandalwood, labdanum and vetiver. A beautiful description by Ida if I am successful I would love to win this sample intrigued by the notes especially rose absolute, jasmine absolute and labdanum mostly. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Un parfum doit avant tout sent bon”: a perfume must, above all – smell good. ~ Guy Robert

    On this point I heartily concur with the master. I am able to be objective when experiencing fragrances, capable of viewing them as distinct art forms, experimental projects, from any number of angles – but when it comes down to committing them to my own flesh, I want to enjoy them. I don’t view myself as a science experiment: I want to luxuriate in something which smells heavenly and makes me feel like a goddess. Hermes Doblis (whether in vintage eau de cologne or parfum of either vintage) does just that. As leather chypres go, it is in a class with vintage Diorling; impossibly suave, buttery-golden and eloquently elegant. Hermes Doblis would make a marvelous signature for anyone who revels in a charmeuse-textured chypre glowing against the skin that makes you feel unique au monde. It is the softest, most supple leather imaginable rendered with savoir faire. A beautiful description by Ida has got me curious a house that I have got no experience with I am afraid but sounds like a magical concoction for uncertain times. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Thelstrhi says:

    How could I not want to try this when the author describes it in such loving terms? It sounds so beautiful! I’m a US resident living in the state of Virginia.

  • rachelng says:

    ❤️ Yes. Unicorn! It was Hermes that started my journey into perfume with a bottle of the original Maurice Roucel formulation of 24, Faubourg. Doblis has always been a “lost treasure” for us mortals. If I could win any prize, it would be this one . I have no words. ❤️ Thank you, Ida, for your stunning description. This is gorgeous, “One has the luxury of being led down a path where mystery intersects with graceful sumptuousness in an illuminated display upon the fleshly canvas.” ❤️ Thank you so much for this one in a million chance! I live in the USA.

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    I really like and appreciate the way Ida gives the background on rare and precious perfumes. Moreover, her sensual appreciation illustrates beautifully. When she wrote: “herbal notes married to florals in a chypric setting”, she describes exactly what I treasure most in a well-constructed fragrance, just nails it. Would love to win a tiny sample of Hermes Doblis. I live in the USA.

  • jojosi3 says:

    Thank you Ida for the history, I really learn so much from your reviews and writing. I don’t even know where to begin, because this exposes me to so much frag info and history that I didn’t even have a remote inkling about. Thank you for always sharing your knowledge 🙂 Thank you also for the draw, and hello from Canada!

  • Konstantin says:

    Now that’s what one would call a real treasure indeed! I’m terribly intrigued how. Leathers are hard in modern days but if anyone can make leather current, that’ll be JCE

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    What a glorious review, and thanks for the opportunity to sample a drop of this! In addition to the overall description of the scent (the way Ida describes how the chypre accord is shaded with aromatics and florals sounds wonderful!), I also appreciated the cheeky commentary about perfume price escalation. IF ONLY this cost $400 these days. Thanks for the draw–I’m in the US.

  • wandering_nose says:

    Ida’s story has piqued my curiosity as to Hermès Doblis. It seems to be one of the super rare gems that a true perfume lover needs to acquaint themselves with. Happy for Ida to have been able to give it a test and share her thoughts. The part where she says it is a chypre glowing against one’s skin that makes one feel unique won my heart. I would be delighted to try the timeless beauty too! Thank you from Ireland, EU

  • Edward Nagy says:

    Doblis has been one of those white whale scents that I’ve been chasing the way Ahab pursued Moby Dick. I’ve resigned myself to never owning it but perhaps having the chance to smell it in the off-chance.

    I always enjoy reading about Doblis and imagining the scent with my mind’s nose, the review was well-written and allowed me to experience this masterpiece vicariously through Ida’s words.

    I’m not sure if the Osmotheque has a vial of Doblis but hopefully one day I can smell it there in actuality.

  • seville says:

    amazing review, sounds like the ideal, or perhaps the perfect fragrance that only a master could create!
    I live in London.

  • lha says:

    As an ardent lover of vintage chypres, I’ve always known that I would love Doblis. In my mind, it has always been the one that got away! Reading Ida’s thoughts only confirms my belief. I would’ve thrilled beyond measure to be able to smell it!
    I’m in the US.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review of this old fragrance Ida.

    It warms my heart to see your love for this fragrance and how far back in time the memory of this scent extends.

    I wish I could smell this fragrance and perhaps someday I will.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    I’m greatful for this review of unique history as my late father wore Equipage, those scents still cast a large shadow in some of us, Im not familiar with Doblis.
    From PA, USA