J’s image of Grandiflora Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine

An unintelligible guttural response sound of deep pleasure is the only way to describe what my first interaction with Grandiflora Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine was like. Yes I could smell this creamy sparkling warm grapefruit citrus washing over softly spiced skin joined by aromatics woods, but it was more than that. Its a feeling of place that I smelt, like a memory trapped inside this composition that plays out like an endless performance each time you wear it. Ghosts of the past perform this perfume as if trapped in time. Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine feels bright and joyous during its opening, glowing warm like the suns heat is caressing your skin, letting the black pepper sizzle with desire. Soft waves crash around its edges, giving an umami effect making it addictive to smell, returning to this mysteries memory, trying to unravel its secrets.

NYRB’s edition of The Invention of Morel by Adolfo Bioy Casares and a still from Alain Resnais‘ Last Year at Marienbad courtesy of Royalto Pictures

Wearing Magnolia Sandrine makes me think of one of my favourite novels The Invention of Morel by Adolfo Bioy Casares from1940. The story unfolds with a fugitive taking refuge on a remote island in Polynesia. When tourists arrive, his dread of being discovered intertwines with a blossoming love for one of the guests. He yearns to express his feelings, yet an unusual phenomenon keeps them apart. (Spoiler alert) The Invention of Morel’s narrative is intricately crafted; revealing that the woman he loves is merely a projection from a film on a loop from the past. It delves into the concept of memories trapped in these endless loops. This theme resurfaces again in the 1961 film Last Year at Marienbad, directed by Alain Resnais and scripted by Alain Robbe-Grillet, taking inspiration from The Invention of Morel, but with a much darker twist. Grandiflora Magnolia Sandrine feels like the antithesis of this though, more like a memory hidden in a composition, it’s definitely a happy joyous one throughout the wear and the cosy warm feeling it leaves you with.

Perfumer Sandrine Videault image courtesy of Saskia Havekes and “Umbrella” Magnolia©, 1819 by John T. Curran (1859–1933) from the Tiffany & Co. collection, creative commons.

Magnolia has always felt like this soft diffusive haze for me, like you’re looking through muslin curtains as the sun makes them nearly transparent, yet when moved by the wind it abstracts them again, it’s almost like watercolour washes, but in a dreamier way. Here in Grandiflora Magnolia Sandrine, the magnolia dances with elegant delicate subtle gestures, again it hints at memories; hazy white florals gives delicate sweet kisses of white peach, with a gentle more tart bite from sour green apples, as you fizz with the glowing sensation of a sweet bubble champagne, not quite pink, but a light impression of one, that slowly grows into creamy delicate white floral tones. Grandiflora Magnolia Sandrine is composed with a deft loving touch, as if the magnolia is woven from happy moments from Sandrine Videault’s life. She sadly left us the same year of Grandiflora Magnolia Sandrine’s release; for me it feels like part of her lives on through this elegant composition.

Sandrine Videault and Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora image courtesy of Saskia Havekes©

Musks and moss enhance its dreamy feel, again a deft use so expanding that soft focus, sunny, hazy feel of a half-remembered memory, like a happy that brings a smile to your face, bathed in bright shimmering floral tones. Sketches of sea caressed woods and with a gentle mineralic shine talk of a place where this magnolia memory might have bloomed. It’s near the sea as the saltiness from the opening is still hanging in the air, while also hinting at smooth stones, while moss gives us the earth to walk on and a place for the flowers to grow. Yet again though this sense of place has a feeling, a memory lingering there, growing softer and cosy. As the peppery spices fade into the musks and magnolia it feels like they’re wrapping around you like a hug from someone close. The grapefruit now has this deliciously sensual slightly sour fresh out of the sea skin aroma, that with white florals again returns to a quiet desire. Magnolia Sandrine is a master class in quiet complexity, it’s so beautifully balanced that it feels like you’re experiencing a magnolia flower bloom in slow motion, yet it whispers of more, the things occurring around this event, as if you’re there watching. I’ve tried to write about this perfume a few times, making notes but failing, as I just want to sit with it and bask in its gentle glow, letting the mysterious happy memories play out over and over. It’s a joy to experience and wear, you feel its presence in the air around you, yet its not loud, just elegant, present and beautiful.

Perfumers Michel Roudnitska and Sandrine Videault collage image by former Managing Editor Mark Behnke via CaFleureBon.©

Michel Roudnitska also created a magnolia perfume, released at the same time in 2014, Magnolia Michel. It opens with a heady powerful floral, packed with soft indoles and tropical wild fruits. It’s more intense that Sandrine’s magnolia. Sharper citruses start to smooth things out giving that classic French perfume feel as cleaner fresh rose, ylang and jasmine conjure an expensive French soapy powdery feel paired with smooth musks and aldehydes giving an elegance as it softens the more passionate side of the flower.

Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Pepper, Magnolia petal, Moss, Dry woody notes, Marine accord, Musk.

Disclosure: Grandiflora Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine was sent to J for review, thoughts and nose are his own.

J Wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist & olfactive writer.

Grandiflora Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine image courtesy of Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora

Thanks to the generosity of Grandiflora we have a bottle of Grandiflora Magnolia Sandrine for a registered reader in the USA, Canada, EU, UK or Australia. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about J’s review and where you live. Draw closes 9/12/2024

Michelyn’s Note: Grandiflora Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine was released posthumously. Sandrine Videault, a student of Edmond Roudnitska sadly passed away July 3, 2013. As a tribute to his friend, Michel Roudnitska presented Saskia Havekes with an unreleased fragrance which captured his childhood memories of the magnolia tree that grew on his father’s estate in Cabris. They were launched simultaneously and marked the brand’s debut.

Please see Grandiflora Fragrances stockists here.

If you live in the USA, we recommend you visit Luckyscent.com, Scent Bar NYC and LA as they are currently the only USA stockists.

Grandiflora Saskia was a winner of The Art and Olfaction Award/Independent Category 2022  and was composed by Christophe Laudamiel and Ugo Charron

Please read former Managing Editor Mark Behnke’s review of Grandiflora Michel and Sandrine. Former Contributor Clayton Ilolahia’s reviews of Saskia, his review of Boronia and Queen of the Night (Bertrand Duchaufour) and Madagascan Jasmine(Michel Roudnitska.)

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