Frassaï El Descanso Review (Irina Burlakova) 2020+  Bloom Where You Are Planted Draw

 

Frassai El Descano review

Frassaï El Descanso photo courtesy of Frassaï

Creative Director Natalia Outeda of Frassaï has recently released a new fragrance collection aptly entitled El Sur (The South). It is a fine example of the maxim, ‘bloom where you are planted’, as Natalia celebrates her native Argentina’s natural beauty with three distinct perfumes which showcase various aspects of her homeland. They are: Frassaï Rosa Sacra – an exploration of sacred wood and jungly rose; Frassaï Cuir Pampas – freshly extinguished pampas campfires, warm maté and gauchos on horseback; and Frassaï El Descanso – the respite of the pampas, windswept expanses of waving wheat populated by immense shady ombù trees. Among these three I chose Frassaï El Descanso to review; the notion of green and grain conjoined in the bleak midwinter felt comforting and tonic to me.

 

Natalia Outeda Creative Director of Frassai

Natalia Outeda, Creative Director of Frassaï (you can read more about her path to perfumery here)

Mme. Outeda’s choice of perfumer here differs from her 2017 collaborations with Messieurs Rodrigo-Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier; this time it is Irina Burlakova, who worked for Givaudan for nine years, then MANE for several and now is a consultant exclusively for the latter.

 

Irina Burlakova, Mane perfumer

 perfumer Irina Burlakova via All Events in City©

Another notable inclusion is Frassaï’s transparency with regards to aromatic materials: they list in detail which are natural – and no surprises here, as MANE is well-known for its most excellent natural products and innovation. Aside from botanical perfumers, this is the first time I can recall a fragrance house clearly delineating which substances are natural from those which are not. I find that aspect refreshingly candid.

 

El Descando by Frassai

 ombù tree in Buenos Aires via Reddit 

The first spray of Frassaï El Descanso is a glory. It’s decidedly verdant and full, as if one had flung open windows long-shuttered. You are inundated (in the best way) by its fresh, open-throated melody; the plains have received plentiful rain, and everything flourishes. When I referred earlier to grass and grain it wasn’t mere lip-service: lemon and galbanum yield up a gorgeous grassiness to the senses. The solar embellishment imparted by golden mimosa is joyous; a whisper of minty rose geranium skews both herbal and floral. A subtle, undeniable nod to those astonishingly sleek Alazan horses is unmistakable, as multifaceted orris and horsey ambrette take their place – tender floral animalics which play so many roles in perfumery due to their versatility. Sandalwood and cedar underscore the composition – but first, the interweaving of bran and tonka perform a marvelous symbiosis. Tonka’s coumarinic-dense tones possess accents of spice and roasted nuts; bran is earthy and chalorous, like honeyed hay studded with savory nuts and echoes of vanilla. Ombù leaves? This is terra incognita for me – and nowhere can I unearth any descriptors, but some sources insist that ombù is more like a weed, a grass, has too soft flesh to really be a wood because it’s spongy. We’ll have to trust Natalia on this one.

In the drydown, El Descanso smells both green and drily warm in a delightfully unselfconscious manner. Its gustative equivalent might be some beneficent aperitif created by monks residing in the nearby mountains – an herbal tonic that goes back generations. This fragrance has a modern feel combined with elements as old as Earth herself.

Notes: Ambrette, Galbanum, Bran absolute, Ombu leaves, Cedarwood, Sandalwood. Natural ingredients: Bran, Cedarwood, Galbanum, Lemon, Orris, Mimosa, Rose Geranium, Vanilla Infusion, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Ambrette

Sample kindly provided by Frassaï – many thanks!  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior and Natural Perfumery Editor

 

Frassai El Descanso

 Frassaï  El Descanso 7.5 ml photo via VFrassaï

Thanks to the largesse of Frassaï, we have a draw for one registered reader USA for a  7.5 ml travel spray of Frassaï El Descanso. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review, and if transparency in disclosing ingredients is important to you . Draw closes 12/25/2020

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32 comments

  • INYA says:

    I love the outdoors, especially the woods, so El Descanso is especially appealing to me. The Ombu leaves note is new to me, and I’m amazed at how perfumers always find something unique to create something special. I do think that disclosure of ingredients is important, especially to those that suffer from allergies. Thanks for another fabulous draw! Mich USA

  • fourierist says:

    I like how each note and its impact is broken down carefully. I do like to know about ingredients, whether they’re natural or not, etc. I’m in the US, thanks!

  • Dami says:

    I am very interested in Frassai’s latest fragrance releases. This is a line I very much appreciate because of their use of natural materials, as indicated in the review, and because I love and own Blondine. I’m intrigued about this green scent and to see how the natural ingredients come through. I am in the Dallas area.

  • NimirRa says:

    Ida’s description sounded very appealing and I am curious about the incluvsion of Bran oil as I have not seen it listed in a fragrance before. Transparency in cosmetic ingredients is very important to me! I do a lot of research before buying and there are many ingredients that I am conscious of- sometimes even preferring the synthetics such as in the case of animal derived ingredients. Commenting from California.

  • audesko1 says:

    Ida’s words are always so engaging. Grass and grain and many notes that I havent smelled before. Floral animalics sounds like a wonderful scent. I have only tried Blondine from Frassai and it is a beauty. Thank you for the chance to win..California

  • Brian says:

    I certainly am interested in trying this fragrance. This fragrance seems to be grassy, floral, and more, and that is all appealing to me; one of the ingredients (i.e. Ombu leaves) is new to me. I want to try a fragrance that comes from a MANE perfumer. I think that it is a good thing if a perfumery wants to be transparent with the ingredients, e.g. I like to know what’s in it. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    The idea of a bran-tonka chord sounds so unique, odd, and yet wonderful. The whole aesthetic idea behind this scent is wonderful, and Ida conjures beautiful pastoral images. I think ingredient transparency is interesting and nice but not necessary to me. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • pimpompompam says:

    Ida’s review is indeed very precise. Ingredient after ingredient along with its magical abilities. Its fun and interesting, after reading this I am almost sure I know how it smells. I like to blind buy perfumes, and that’s when the list of ingredients is a must. When I have a chance to smell the fragrance, i dont really care, if i like it i wear it.

  • AleksCipri says:

    Wow Frassaï El Descanso sound right up my alley. I really like green woodsy grassy natural perfumes. Ida’s review really describes the notes nicely and after reading it I’m imagining this scent as the nice picture of that green old tree in the text. I would also love to try Frassaï Cuir Pampas. I do care about ingredients transparency. Although I care more about that in cosmetics and makeup than in fragrances. Although I do want to know at least a little bit about the ingredients and if they are using animal products or not. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • patrick_348 says:

    Ida makes this perfume sound so unusual. The impression I get from her description is that of a fragrance that is outdoorsy and natural, but put together with a refinement that makes it highly civilized and balanced, a perfect nature/civilization opposition. Her comparison to a monk-made aperitif makes it sound super appealing. I love the idea of using notes from sources native to Argentina. I like the idea of listing which notes are natural and which are synthetic, for those who care about that. To me, however, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and if the end result is fantastic, I’m not so concerned about whether the formula leans toward the natural or the synthetic. I am in the US, in NC.

  • Trinity33 says:

    What an interesting list of notes. I’m really intrigued by the bran absolute and ombu leaves. The transparency they use in listing natural and synthetic notes is refreshing. I agree that grains and green sound comforting going into the bleak winter season. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Sngash says:

    Thanks Ida for the detailed review. I’m always on the lookout for my next vetiver oriented fragrance and this sounds like Frassaï El Descanso would beautifully fit the bill. Transparency is also very important especially on something that will be worn on skin and I’m glad this house has opted to be fully transparent. I’m in USA

  • MR_USA says:

    Great review as always, Ida. You really bring fragrances and scents alive with your writing. I like having at least some level of transparency about ingredients, but don’t expect full disclosure to an extent that will just make it easier for cloning houses to create clones. This fragrance sounds so captivating, and I would love to try the sample. Regards from NY, USA.

  • mronhubbard says:

    This sounds like an intriguing mix of some notes that are comforting & some that are unfamiliar to me. (And green facets!) The transparency aspect is refreshing, especially considering that so many brands market themselves as natural but aren’t explicit about what goes into their formulae. And hey, I once worked in a town called Descanso.

  • Bryant Worley420 says:

    Ida’s review was excellent. She was very finely detailed in her description, and caused the reader to imagine what his/her wearing experience would be. Transparency in disclosing ingredients is partly important, but only if you are looking to get to know notes and accords, or just like knowing what you’re wearing.

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • gianluca says:

    I like how the description takes us to a little sojourn like a natural documentary, the highlighted parts are reasonable climax. For me transparency about ingredients is never a huge concern. I trust the perfumers’ creation process. However, I find it unappealing if they are marketed too much on the ingredients, especially suggesting the ingredients are natural when they are not. (US)

  • xoe says:

    Transparency in ingredient disclosure is very important to me. Grass and grain is not something I’ve ever tried in a fragrance, this sounds pretty amazing. I am in the US

  • SandiL says:

    Great review, Ida! Modern feel with an ancient old as the Earth twist. I am a sucker for green earthy smells and this one sounds as if it might be a bit of heaven on earth. I for one appreciate transparency in the disclosing of ingredients.

  • Dalya says:

    Ida’s reviews are always so compelling but in this one, it’s the nod to “sleek Alazan horses” that caught my attention. It’s great that this brand discloses which ingredients are natural and which are not. USA

  • drjedi says:

    Ombù leaves? This is terra incognita for me too. But it wasn’t listed in the natural fragrances so I wonder what chemical actually is used for ombu leaves. Transparency in disclosing is very important, for both natural and synthetic ingredients, as allergies and skin problems (or worse, cancers) can occur if one doesn’t know what one is using, so I am glad that Frassai chooses to disclose which ingredients are natural and which are not in their perfumes. Liked Ida’s description in the review of El Descanso, so one has a good idea of the perfume. Thanks for the review and the draw. Writing from the USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    There are certainly some things in El Descanso with which I am not familiar, so it would be most interesting to actually try this. I love the image of throwing open the window. Many thanks to Ida for an evocative review and many thanks to Frassaï for making this draw possible. I’m in the USA

  • seanchen says:

    What appealed to me about Ida’s review was just hearing about the motivations behind each scent and what they are meant to invoke. I really like how these scents were inspired by scents encountered in Argentina, something that isn’t often seen in perfumery. Transparency in disclosing ingredients is also important to me because it also allows the consumer to know whether the product was created ethically. I live in Florida.

  • Jed Or Alive says:

    I’m particularly intrigued by the description of El Descanso as having “a modern feel combined with elements as old as the earth herself.” I really appreciate vintage perfumes and historically based fragrances, so this sounds up my alley. I recently purchased Tiesenddu and would love to try something else from the house. Transparency in ingredients is desirable but not a deal breaker. I’m fortunate enough to not have many allergies or sensitivities, so I can be a bit less discerning than others as far as ingredients are concerned. Located in California, USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    As I sit indoors on a cold winter’s day I longingly think of how much I enjoy that first time when it is warm enough to open some windows and how good that feels. I’ve never heard of an Onbu leaf. I love herbal liqueurs, especially those created by monks who create the best. Thanks Ida, I shall think of you once I can throw open the windows. USA

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review Ida.

    Generally whenever I read review, I often wonder what would stump the nose of a fragrance reviewer. I love Ida’s honesty in this review about the fact that she has no idea what Ombu leaves smell like. We are led into the realms of her perception in which we place out trust.

    I love the herbal, greennness of this perfume.

    I definitely do like to know about the chemicals in perfumes, moreso because I apply them to my body. I appreciate any bt of transperancy.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • jundaasian says:

    What appealed to me about Ida’s review was how Natalia was able to use Argentina as he inspiration for the fragrance since it is a place that is not often associated with perfumery. I liked how she was able to connect her perfumes to her roots. Transparency in disclosing ingredients is important to me because it allows the buyer to know whether the materials were sourced ethically. I live in Florida.

  • Onutka says:

    I liked this part of Ida’s review, “Tonka’s coumarinic-dense tones possess accents of spice and roasted nuts; bran is earthy and chalorous, like honeyed hay studded with savory nuts and echoes of vanilla.” ( I had to look up “chalorous.” 😀

    Wearing this sounds like quite a journey, From lemony and grassy to the richness described above to musky ambrette and woodsy cedar.

    I do think ingredient transparency is a must for naturals, so people can avoid any possible allergens. This fragrance sounds divine!
    Onutka, USA

  • Cynthia says:

    The notes described are appealing and do sound earthy as Ida states. I found the other Frassi perfumes I tried to be very special and of high quality ingredients. Thank you for the review and the draw. USA

  • Nelly A says:

    Love Ida’s reviews as always! She mentions “This fragrance has a modern feel combined with elements as old as Earth herself” and I’m so intrigued by this description along with the notes of sandlewood, Tonka, vanilla, rose. Cedar wood to name a few…. some of my fav scent notes…. based in the US

  • Juan_hernan says:

    I really appreciate how the first spray of Frassaï El Descanso is described as glory which is something that I thought was very cool. That was enough to get me to want to try it. Transparency is important so that the public can know how ethical the actions of company are.

  • smm13 says:

    Ida’s review really made me sense the freshness of this perfume. It made me start dreaming about spring already. I’m definitely appreciative of being transparent about ingredients. It seems like it’s difficult to know what you are actually buying anymore. I live in the USA.

  • Ann says:

    Love your descriptions of El Descanso, Ida!
    It was love at first sniff for me.
    A very uplifting fragrance in a most unique way, combining amazing naturals that elegantly transport you directly outdoors.