Frassaï Dormir al Sol courtesy of the brand
What though the radiance
Which was once so bright
Be now for ever taken from my sight,
Though nothing can bring back the hour
Of splendour in the grass,
Of glory in the flower,
We will grieve not, rather find
Strength in what remains behind. ~ William Wordsworth, excerpt from Splendour in the Grass
Natalia Outeda via Instagram
To drowse in the splendor of the meadow – sunlit, redolent of new mown hay and fecund soil beneath us: fertile, yes – but as dry as high summer permits. Rains come and go; the surrounding hues evolve in varying tons of gold and green. Due to the vagaries of latitude and longitude, Frassaï’s creative director Natalia Outeda finds herself in the midst of an Argentine winter just as our summer here unfolds in all its languor. Natalia very recently related that despite this disparity, she is taking comfort in Frassaï’s newest release Dormir al Sol (To Sleep in the Sun). Once I familiarize you with this dreamy perfume, I’m certain that you’ll understand how that comes to be.
Perfumer Irina Burlakova of Mane courtesy of Mane
What does it mean ‘to sleep in the sun”? My immediate association resembles a Martín Malharro or Monet painting which teems with haystacks, farm workers stealing a midday siesta in the midst of a coumarinic-scented field of grain; lovers whose heavy limbs entwine while the sun is at its zenith and any other activity must be curtailed until the soaring temperatures abate, just a little. Perfumer Irina Burlakova of Mane has gilded Dormir al Sol with potent atmospherics and brings these to the table, where they conjointly create an ambience of gourmand détente.
Frassaï Dormir al Sol image via @frassai Instagram
Lime and mandarin provide their fleeting citrus-charm-as-introduction, and appear bold upon first spritz. I have the trompe-nez impression of linden as they meld with mimosa absolute: powerfully sweet, powdery, pollen-y, haylike, resolutely floral and dry-grassy. There is a solar dustiness to mimosa which reminds us of heliotrope. The perfumer offsets this effect with one of the Mane pure jungle essence™ captives for piquancy – forest pepper. Not really a peppercorn as we know it (more a berry), forest pepper is a member of the same botanical family as Timut and Szechuan (Sichuan) pepper: spicy and floral, with hints of mandarin. The masterly sleight-of-hand in employing a burnished saffron complement several other materials: with patchouli and guaiac wood, it summons a lightly smoky, earthy leather; with Mane’s brandy pure jungle essence™, a glowing libational ember. At this stage in its development Dormir al Sol is heavy-lidded and passionate as a sundrunk odalisque. The inclusion of Bourbon vetiver contributes a warmly nutty, balsamic touch of moist verdancy which enlivens, balances, and modulates the aridity of wood and spice. Well into the drydown, this fragrance feels like a cloud of comfort; gossamer perfume, but not ghostly, it floats upon the flesh and the ether with companionable ease.
My most beautiful hiding places,
places that best fit my soul’s deepest colors,
are made of all those others forgot.
They are solitary sites hollowed out in the grass’ caress,
in a shadow of wings, in a passing song. ~ excerpt from Ballad of Forgotten Places, by Argentinian poet Olga Orozco
Notes: lime, mandarin, forest pepper pure jungle essence™ (Mane), mimosa absolute, brandy pure jungle essence™ (Mane), guaiac wood Gran Chaco (the second largest rainforest in South America), vetiver Bourbon, patchouli Gayo (the highlands of Aceh,Sumatra), saffron
Bottle kindly gifted by Natalia Outeda, (who noted my enthusiasm at Esxence 2024 when Dormir al Sol was being presented). Many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Art Direction: Michelyn
Frassaï Dormir al Sol art courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the largesse of Frassaï, we have a draw for three registered readers: one in the EU, one in the UK and one in the USA for a 9ml ml flacon of Frassaï Dormir al Sol. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review, and where you live. Draw closes 7/12/204
Stockists here.
Learn about Natalia Outeda’s role as a Creative director of Frassaï here
Please read Ida’s reviews of El Descanso Verano Porteño Blondine and Tian Di
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