Fragrance Reviews: M.Micallef Gardenia (2002) & Osaïto (2016) + The Bold and The Beautiful Draw

Daphne Groeneveld photographed by David Roemer for Zoo (SpringSummer 2016).

Daphne Groeneveld photographed by David Roemer for Zoo (SpringSummer 2016).

 ‘Murderess, murderess, he whispers to himself. It has an allure, a scent almost. Hothouse gardenias. Lurid, but also furtive. He imagines himself breathing it as he draws Grace towards him, pressing his mouth against her. Murderess. He applies it to her throat like a brand.’  From ‘Alias Grace’ by Margaret Atwood

Vogue Uk, Tim Walker, Fashion Photography, Coco Rocha

Vogue Uk, Tim Walker, Fashion Photography, Coco Rocha

 I think a lot of people feel the fear in white flowers, those femme fatales, the languid indole-laden creamy petals that hang in the air radiating assurance and come hither danger. They should. These are blooms that use narcotic, fleshy suggestiveness to lure pollinators to sup nectar and coat unsuspecting bodies in pollen. Once used, they leave, dazed and satiated.

Kate Moss for W magazine Steven Klein

Kate Moss for W magazine Steven Klein

 Foxy loves his white florals, the headier and more intoxicating the better, white lilies, night blooming jasmine, gardenia, ylang ylang and orange blossom… the opacity of luscious desire. I always sample them and occasionally one or two lay down beautifully on skin like fallen angels. But many are oversweet, synthetically harsh, eyebright and blatantly plasticised. I like my blooms with style, intrigue and perhaps just a hint of menace.

martine micallef and geoffrey nejman of m micallef

Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman

 So here I am chez M. Micallef Parfums as they celebrate their 20th anniversary as luxury perfumers. I’ve written on them on twice before for Michelyn and Cafleurebon, in 2014 on extensions to the Mon Parfum line, the gorgeous signature scent created lovingly for Martine Micallef by her husband Geoffrey Nejman and last year on the amazing Akowa for gentlemen which I still think is one of the most intriguing compositions in the M. Micallef collection. I wish more people had access to the line, despite the 900 doors the brand is accessible in, it is still surprisingly hard to come by, (use their website it is easiest)  which is a huge pity as there are some beautiful, sumptuous perfumes that just work, imbuing skin with a sense of molten, moreishness.

Pitti-Akowa parfum micallef

Pitti Fragranze Akowa Display 2015

The signature aurous sweetness, a kind of floating oudy vanillic amber is tailored to allow other notes to harmonise and collaborate without losing that overall M. Micallef style. Akowa was different though and critics picked up on the departure, although that vanillic sentiment still blows gently through the heart of the fragrance’s rooty 80’s fougère aridity. The much-discussed secret African-sourced secret ingredient at the heart of the composition, a tribal root discovered by Geoffrey on holiday off the beaten track, lends Akowa its anisic, herbal bitterness.  

I have two M.Micallef, one old, one new to talk to you about, they complement one another beautifully, one sensual, feminine and languorous, the other bold, unyielding and reserved. Gardenia from 2002 and the new men’s launch Osaïto, taking it inspiration from Asian coastlines, where water meets lands and the weather shifts eternally.

-m micallef gardenia Orange blossom fused with Aline Weber for Numero magazine #132

 Orange blossom fused with Aline Weber for Numero magazine #132  and M.Micallef Gardenia Eau De Parfum

Gardenia is an older M. Micallef perfume, from 2002 and oh my it’s so lovely, a swirling infusion of buttery jasmine, gardenia, cool vanilla and ambergris. I could keep on spraying it just for the huge explosive joy of the vanilla soaked jasmine at the beginning to be honest, it’s sensational.  It has that trademark soft, caramel brulée undertone of much of the line, but tempered with a powdered apricot touch which is very pretty indeed. There are moments too of gumminess, like inhaling a bag of Haribo and then the gardenia reasserts itself gently. It’s never heavy, just addictive and luminous like a low light for tired moths. The indolic facet of the flower has been dialled down, so for those of you who might baulk at the potential fleshiness or overt headiness of the gardenia note, don’t worry, perfumer Jean-Claude Astier has composed an immensely wearable interpretation of one of nature’s most arresting blooms. It wears quite close as it settles, which I like a lot, luxury should be understated and subtle, but it rises and falls with such tempting grace that you find yourself inhaling your own skin as is if were that of a lover.

 

Osaito from Gazelle Communication on Vimeo.

As I’m writing this, all I can smell is an arresting slate grey haze of Osaïto wafting around me from my writhing inked arms and silver hair. One of the things I really liked about Akowa was its presence and Osaïto is no different. It is scent as weather, unpredictable, forceful and strong.  Geoffrey and Martine have created a short film to accompany the launch of Osaïto; it is monochrome slo-mo and unusually features just the back of a man’s head. He has long hair, you know he is Asian, they always have such beautiful hair and only at the end as he moves against a backdrop of cliffs and sea does he turn and revel his handsome, strong face.

Micallef Osaito  Ash Stymest by Hedi Slimane VOGUE HOMMES JAPAN 1st issue 2008 AW

Ash Stymest by Hedi Slimane VOGUE HOMMES JAPAN 1st issue 2008 AW and M. Micallef  Osaïto by TSF

Essentially Osaïto is a woody aromatic with a big splash of bracing grapefruit thrown across the top. It is an interesting feature I think of the M. Micallef line that the feminine scents are much more diffusive and romantically hazy, less defined in terms of structure and notes, diaphanous even, reflective perhaps of the Micallef woman.

Nick Knight lady gaga

Nick Knight Lady Gaga  poses as male alter ego “Jo Calderone” for Japan's Vogue Hommes cover 

Whereas I find the more singular men’s launches that are very good indeed are unequivocally masculine. Yes a woman could wear Osaïto as she might slip into a lover’s white shirt in the morning, but there is something mysteriously butch and honourable about its persistent traditional aura.

As with Akowa there is a purported secret note resting at the heart of Osaïto, again, what it is will remain a mystery known only to Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier. The top of the scent has a very elegant wash of marine notes, not however the usual calone, algenone type sea breeze/algae effects but a suggestion of samphire, sometimes known in Britain as sea asparagus or sea pickle, an edible variety of succulent halophyte, a species of plant that flourishes in waters of high salinity.  Essentially a sea vegetable, it has been eaten in Britain for millennia. In Osaïto, it is mixed in the top with the acidic grapefruit to suggest the exhilaration of sea spray sparking up from rocks. The eccentric addition of myrtle and strawflower in the middle section layer texture and a warm, rugged aromatic airiness. The starflower or everlasting adds a strange, roasted herbiness that juxtaposed against that wonderful samphire opening makes Osaïto so compelling.  I really wish more guys smelled of this; honestly the world would be a better place. The base is pretty generic, woods, amber etc but they don’t really matter except to draw out the warm structures above. As with Akowa, Osaïto wouldn’t normally be my kind of thing, but that special M. Micallef touch of adornment, luxury and mystery make these two additions to the Jewel Collection very moreish and impossible to resist.

 Disclosure: Bottles of Gardenia & Osaïto kindly received from M. Micallef Parfums. Thank you. Opinions my own

 Guest Contributor, The  SilverFox and Editor The Silver Fox

Art Direction Michelyn. Osaito was presented at Esxence 2016 

OSAITO BOTTLE m micallef

gardenia-mmicallef

 Thanks to the continued kindness of Geoffrey, Martine, Claudia, Estelle and Lesley of Parfums M.Micallef we have a 100 ml bottle/195 Euros of  Osaïto OR Gardenia for a  registered reader (you must do this and use your user name or your comment is invalid) anywhere in the world.  To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found compelling about The Silver Fox’s reviews, a quote or soemthing you will bookmark, where you live, which fragrance you would like to win and if you have a favorite M.Micallef fragrance. Draw closes 8/18/2016

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume

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43 comments

  • The review so ezpressed the complexity of Osaito (and the video is wonderful). I’ve tried no M. Micallef fragrances, but would like to try Osaito. I am in the US.

  • Wonderful review! I really enjoyed to read the whole article. The Osaïto commercial video is awesome. And in that photo, Lady Gaga is really look like a male. Unfortunately, I have never had a chance to try any of M.Micallef fragrance. If I would be as lucky to win, my choice is Gardenia. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Happy 20th Anniversary Micallef! I adore the scent of real gardenia and this sounds lovely and going on my list to try. My favorite quote from the review was: “…luxury should be understated and subtle, but it rises and falls with such tempting grace that you find yourself inhaling your own skin as is if were that of a lover.” I’ve never tried any scents from the line.

    I live in Europe and my choice would be Gardenia. Thanks for the draw!

  • fazalcheema says:

    Osaito seems interesting because it is a woody aromatic with some citrus elements, making it suitable in all seasons. It also shares a note with Akowa which is another positive. My favorite from Micallef is Sashka Black, I am in the US.

  • I’m in for the bracing grapefruit in the Osaito. I thought the Gaga photo reminded me of a young Bob Dylan. Whatever that sea pickle is I’d like to smell that. My favorite Micallef is Gaiac and I’d love to win the Osaito. USA

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I always love hearing about fragrances that have a salty/marine element that isn’t just the boring/nasty mass-market calone molecule in so many alleged marine fragrances. That, plus the grapefruit sounds lovely! I also loved this line in the review: “I think a lot of people feel the fear in white flowers, those femme fatales, the languid indole-laden creamy petals that hang in the air radiating assurance and come hither danger. ” So true! This is what I feel when the bracing top notes dissipate from a good tuberose or gardenia scent. I’d choose Osaito since I’ve never tried it! My favorite Micallef is Note Vanille or the amazing Rose Oud they have (I think Arabian Diamond?) or Gaiac. Hard to choose! I’m in the US.

  • I have tried three M.Micallef fragrances. My favorite is Ylang. Gardenia would be my choice….”it’s so lovely, a swirling infusion of buttery jasmine, gardenia, cool vanilla and ambergris.” This is everything I love and it’s created by Jean-Claude Astier who also created Ylang! USA.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I love Gardenia and I love this sentence of the Silver Fox: “luxury should be understated and subtle, but it rises and falls with such tempting grace that you find yourself inhaling your own skin as is if were that of a lover.” It is exactly what a perfume should be for me!!!

    My favourite M. Micaleff perfume ist Royal Rose Aoud.

    Thanks for the draw! I live in the EU and I would like to win Gardenia!

  • The description of Gardenia sounds divine esp. with a “cool” vanilla. Osaito also sounds wonderful especially if it is as good as Akowa! My favorite Micallef is Gaiac as it has a lingering quality that is both comforting and sensual to me. I live in Taiwan and would to win the Gardenia!

  • “It is scent as weather, unpredictable, forceful and strong.” What a great description. Sometimes I don’t need the notes to make decision about trying or buying some perfume, just a vivid impression shared by someone. This is the case. Thank you for the great review! I’d like Osaito. I live in the EU.

  • I love Micallef fragrances. I have a serious difficulty deciding which one is my favorite, because there are so many wonderful compositions released by this brand: Gaiac, Automne, Hiver, Watch, Black Sea, Red Sea… I also like Gardenia very much for its rich creaminess. I think The Silver Fox’s perception of this scent is very similar to mine. I also find myself inhaling my own skin while wearing Gardenia. And this is the scent I would choose. I am in the EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • Prince Barry says:

    As usual, a wonderful review. The marine notes in Osaito just sound so amazing. A change from the overused calone note.

    I would love to win the Osaito. I live in the UK.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Impressive review again. Gardenia is the sister of Jasmine due to similar smell. Like jasmine, it is traditionally added to the tea for taste & smell. Gardenia symbolizes love, harmony and grace.
    My favorite M. Micalled is EMIR and AVANT-GARDE. M.Micallef bottles are decorative & beautiful. Thanks for the draw.
    If I win my choice is M. Micallef Gardenia. Peshawar, Pakistan

  • “It is scent unpredictable as forceful as weather and strong ”
    I just read your Akowa review and would love to own but Osaito is a close second based on your fantastic review
    And although I don’t care usually about bottles
    This is a beauty.
    My wife loves her white florals and a creamy gardenia without indoles so would be her choice so reluctant I choose Gardenia putting ladies first
    That Atwood quote was incredible
    I live in the EU

  • I got more excited reading the Gardenia review, because it sounded better to the side of my brain which is connected to my nose; better than Osaito which lost me with the marine note, as I don’t dig marine perfumes that much. I enjoyed reading the phrase “I like my blooms with style, intrigue and perhaps just a hint of menace.”, I thought is was cool.
    I’d like to win Gardenia, as flowers are more appealing than marine notes to me. I live in Europe.

  • Hi! I thought the Silver Fox’s strategy of reviewing a new perfume alongside an older one was quite absorbing. If I win I would choose Osaito, because it’s description as “the exhilaration of sea spray sparking up from rocks,” sounds totally irresistible to me, and something I would like to experience. This would be my first time smelling a M.Micallef creation. I live in Canada!

  • Miss Almond says:

    My choice would be Osaito, although marine notes are not among my top ten, but Osaito seems to be different from most of fresh marine men perfume. I like that there is grapefruit, myrtle and amber in it and that TSF describes the fragrance as “forceful and strong”.
    My favorite Micallef is currently Pomelos but it changes quite often – previously it was Royal Muska for a very long time.
    I live in the EU and thank you for the draw and interesting article.

  • ” I really wish more guys smelled of this; honestly the world would be a better place. ” Great description, TSF! I likes marine notes so Osaito sounds rather appealing.

    My favorite Micallef is Avant Garde. Amazing scent with great sillage. I would love to win Gardenia for my wife, because gardenia is her favorite flower.

    I live in Europe. Thank you for the chance!

  • Overall a great review of the Silver Fox but what really triggered me was this sentence:
    “It wears quite close as it settles, which I like a lot, luxury should be understated and subtle, but it rises and falls with such tempting grace that you find yourself inhaling your own skin as is if were that of a lover. ”

    That sounds amazing and i MUST have this, haha!
    The same feeling as in this fragrance is get with my favorite Micallef Ylang in Gold!!! It’s slightly indolic, a tiny bit sweet but not too much, powdery, sensual, rich and after a couple of hours this Ylang also turns into a skin scent. Just wonderfully crafted and i feel a queen when i’m wearing it. It lifts me up when needed and i can wear it everywhere, in every season and it’s suitable for day and night.

    So yes, i want a bottle of that Gardenia lease, LOL
    And i live in the Netherlands!

  • I am a big fan of Micallef house, both their fragrances and bottles are beautiful. I regret I don’t know Gardenia because it sounds lovely (ah, caramel brullee undertone!).
    I am really excited about those two scents and I really don’t know which one to choose. My favorite Micallef perfume is Gaiac. and I love woody notes, so I think I will try Osaito.
    My favorite quote – and the one that caused me to choose Osaito – is “I really wish more guys smelled of this; honestly the world would be a better place.”

    Thank you for the review TSF!
    I live in the EU.

  • The house of Micallef has thus far eluded me, but I have had a hankering to try them for a while now. The video for Osaito is pretty enough but I wish more actually happened in it, some kind of narrative.

    Should I win, I would like to try Gardenia for the Silver Fox’s well-described note of “cool vanilla”. I live in the USA, thanks for the drawing.

  • The review of Osaito is so vivid I could almost smell “the exhilaration of sea spray sparking up from rocks” as well as “the eccentric addition of myrtle and strawflower in the middle section” and its warm, rugged aromatic airiness. The way The Silver Fox described Gardenia is equally fabulous and I regret I am usually not so open to wearing white flowers, I am often afraid they will turn out too heavy, too indolic on my skin. I guess it requires time and training to feel good in such kind of scent

    I love Gaiac, Automne, Spring and Summer and recently I am testing Night Aoud which I am also starting to like.

    I would prefer Osaito. I live in Norway. Thank you for the lovely draw!

  • To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found compelling about The Silver Fox’s reviews, a quote or soemthing you will bookmark, where you live, which fragrance you would like to win and if you have a favorite M.Micallef fragrance.

    The (sea) vegetal aspect of this fragrance has me dying to try Osaito. I love how the review paints a very elemental (water) picture. Like wet ocean air on a windy day, a storm is coming, you can smell its “warm, rugged aromatic airiness” approaching from miles away and brace yourself for its arrival. I’m in Arizona, USA. I’ve never tried any Micallefs, though I have been wanting to get my hands on Patchouliful and Akowa, among others.

  • hugogrotius says:

    I am bookmarking this one: “I really wish more guys smelled of this; honestly the world would be a better place”. I totally agree with this thought, because I am familiar with Osaito and this perfume really has something calming ang queiting; sort of divine bliss. My favourite from Parfums M. Micallef is Akowa, which I own a full bottle- Akowa has to be smelled to be believed. I live in Poland, EU and I would love to increase my collection with Osaito. Thank you for chance to win this amazing perfume!

  • My bookmarked quote is “As with Akowa there is a purported secret note resting at the heart of Osaïto, again, what it is will remain a mystery known only to Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier”. I adore Akowa; Akowa is fantastic: rooty, mossy, oriental and strong. I am really excited to learn that Osaïto contains this mysterious african ingredient as well. Wonder how it smells in marine aromatic and woody fragrance… So I love Akowa from M. Micallef, but my all time love is Aoud. I would like to choose Osaïto. I am also thankful for thoughtful draw. Here’s to 20th years of M.Micallef: hope to celebrate its 40th anniversaire! I live in Poland, EU

  • Happy 20th Anniversary M Micallef What I enjoyed about the silver fox’s review was the amazing review of Osaïto. I live in America. I would love to win Osaïto.

  • My attention was immediately attracted when I read ‘samphire’, whenever I go to Europe I like to cook with it. I can imagine the salty but not ozonic fragrance of it would burst out of a fragrance.
    I live in Australia and would like to try Osaito.

  • These both sound absolutely stunning. The Silver Fox has nailed yet another review! I totally identify with this line, “…you find yourself inhaling your own skin as is if were that of a lover.” I am so prone to doing this I can’t try new perfumes in public. I can’t resist constantly pressing my nose to my wrist, which has earned me more than a few odd looks. So until I know a perfume well enough, I only sample at home.

    I love white flowers and ambergris, so would love to try Gardenia. I haven’t been able to find M. Micallef where I live, but always drool over the reviews. They do indeed sound luxurious. I live in Canada, thank you.

  • mmmmadmichal says:

    I would love to recieve Osaito, because of this line: “The top of the scent has a very elegant wash of marine notes(..)”. My zodiac sign is cancer, which is a water sign, so I have always been drown more to marine/oceanic notes in perfumes and I wonder how very talented duo of J.C. Astier and G.Nejman come up with this release, because I am quite a fan of house; my signature scent is Gaiac. I live in EU

  • I totally agree with this line from Silver Fox(thank you for such nice review!) : “special M. Micallef touch of adornment, luxury and mystery make these two additions to the Jewel Collection very moreish and impossible to resist”. I know Akowa and I really like it, looking to buy it soon, cuz it’s my favourite from the house and so I would love to win Osaito to extend my perfume wardrobe. I live in EU

  • I am so curious what the secret note is and I am choosing Osaito because the other notes are so promising and because I am usually drawn to the fragrances which can be described as “unpredictable, forceful and strong”.

    My favorite scent from M. Micallef is Autumne.

    Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • Both reviews are very sensual and creative. I know Gardenia and I never would have thought there is so much in it to find. Well, perhaps I am a little prejudiced against white flowers recently and what I search for is more space and spice in fragrances.
    I love Akowa and I can honestly say that it is one of my favorite Micalef perfumes (along with Red Sea). If TSF says Osaito is similar to Akowa, then my choice is obvious.
    I love the phrase “I really wish more guys smelled of this; honestly the world would be a better place”.
    My pick would be Osaito. Thanks for the draw. EU.

  • doveskylark says:

    This is a great quote: “…there is something mysteriously butch and honourable about its persistent traditional aura.” I would love to try Osaito. I’ve never tried anything from the M Micalef line. I live in the USA.

  • Great review. I like the description of Osaito as unpredictable. A really good perfume should be like this, uncovering its secrets only at the right time and place.
    I am a fan of many Micallef fragrances, but I think Ylang in Gold is the one I like best. I’d like Osaito. I live in Europe.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    Gardenia is one of my favorite flowers: it is somehow able to smell different in every perfume. Some of them are thick and overwhelming, some are creamy and smooth. I love the poetic description that “It’s never heavy, just addictive and luminous like a low light for tired moths.” Sounds great.
    Osaito seems to be interesting too, but I’d prefer Gardenia. I live in the EU
    Thank you The Silver Foxfor so great review.

  • Osaito is quite intriguing to me. I have tried Akowa I really enjoyed this seems like it would be quite enjoyable as well. Love the bottle. I enjoy the description as a wash of marine notes. Also like how he describes catching wafts of the fragrance. I am a fan of aromatics. I’m pretty sure I would enjoy the beauty of this Micallef. Enjoy the Silver Fox’s flare on his reviews. In the USA.

  • This inspiring double review pictures a vivid images of what could be considered an archetypal “masculinity” and “femininity” in fragrances. They of course don’t have to, but this time they are contrasting: subtlety and “tempting grace” of Gardenia vs. “forceful and strong” Osaito. I like both images, but I am more curious what the feminine aspect of Osaito is (every fragrance intended to be “for men” turns very sweet and powdery on my skin while not losing completely its sharpness or woodiness. I’d say they become a little androgynous, just like Lady Gaga in this photo. I’d like a bottle of Osaito then. Thank you for the draw!

    (EU)

  • Wonderful review! Gardenia sounds really beautiful and the Haribo comment intrigued me. “It’s never heavy, just addictive and luminous like a low light for tired moths.” Osaito is really great too. Lady Gaga’s appearance shocked me in the video. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • I loved the review. It’s so difficult to choose between two interesting fragrances while not knowing any of them. I like many of M.Micallef flowery compositions like Watch, Ananda, Jewel. I think I’d choose Gardenia. Thank you for so generous draw! I live in the EU

  • I am lately a bit obsessed about Gardenia and wearing today Une voix Noire in the morning and Jardin de Borneo Gardenia of Sultan Pasha in the evening, then I feel I need to try this Gardenia: buttery jasmine, gardenia, cool vanilla and ambergris. Can it sound better?
    Also curious about the new Osaïto but I would like to try first the creamy Gardenia ; )
    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Europe.

  • Amazing read! I think both scents are amazing but Osaito is calling me! I haven’t tried anything from this house, so this is an exciting draw for me! I’m in Canada and thank you so much for the draw!

  • I loved the review of these fabulous fragrances. I honestly felt like I was smelling them as I was reading it. I tried a Micallef fragrance a while back but I forgot the name of it :(. I do remember it being really good though! If I had to choose, I’d pick Osaito.

    I’m a Canadian reader.