In 1893 French doctor and chemist Theodore Cabanel began creating colognes. His fragrances gained popularity, and in 1908 he opened a Paris boutique. His daughter (who remains nameless) continued the line as Maitre Parfumeur, and in 2002 Creator, Caroline Ilacqua, inherited the line from her godmother, who happened to be the daughter of Theodore Cabanel. Ilacqua along with Perfumer, Jean-François Latty decided to revive and take Teo Cabanel into the 21st Century.
Barkhane is a classic oriental fragrance with a few tricks. The first trick is an ethereal and airy richness that is not thick or cloying, like some ambery vanillas. There is a woody dryness that keeps it airy. Barkhane is a rounded fragrance that is fine-tuned and smooth with no rough edges. All of its notes work together to create balsamic (a sweet and woody quality derived from resinous materials) warmth and ambery richness. This balance allows for subtle shifts as it lives on the skin, but even so it’s the kind of fragrance that wants you to relax, and begs you not to watch its every move. The second trick is a delicately added oud note that creates complexity and tenacity without screaming of its presence. Lastly, I know that some folks go running when they hear notes of cumin and curry, but the quality and composition is so fine that these notes only add texture overall. It has amazing longevity and tenacity.
Literally, Barkhane is the French word for a crescent sand formation that occurs in the desert. This image easily conjures up images of Arabian Nights, but what resonates for me is how this warm fragrance collides in the wintery air. Ideally, the holiday season is a reminder to slow down as we gather with family and friends. For me amber embodies this idea, and Barkhane reminds me to relax and seize the moment. Brisk winter nights meet amber fragrances with a certain delight. They allow for a sultry trail especially when entering and exiting holiday gatherings. Barkhane came as a gift in the mail, and after a long walk, I came home chilled to the bone and found Barhkane waiting for me. The fragrance instantly warmed my body and relaxed my mind, but it also gave me a smirk because it’s the kind of fragrance that likes to make a grand entrance, and sometimes I want that too. Happy Holidays.
Notes listed are: bergamot, geranium, cumin, curry, patchouli, vetiver, oud and cistus, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla and musk.
–Valerie Vitale, Contributing Editor