Fragrance Review: Oriza L. Legrand Cuir de L’Aigle Russe 1892 + Leather Fantasy Draw

 oriza L legrand logo

Oriza L. Legrande is one of the oldest perfume houses extant, with a heritage going back almost 400 years. They secured the patronage and Royal Warrant of King Louis XV and added more warrants from the Royal Courts of England, Italy and Russia along the way; by 1900, nearly two hundred years later, they were at the top of their game, winning the Grand Prize at the World’s Fair. 

1892 cuir de aningle russe oriza l legrande paris boutique

Oriza L. Legrand Cuir de L’Aigle Russe and  Oriza L. Legrand  Paris Boutique 18 Rue Saint Augustin

Yet another century has passed,and we're  still  talking about them! Over the last few years, Owner and Creative Director Hugo Lambert has restored Oriza L. Legrand to its former glory and has opened the archives and recreated many of their fragrances, based on the original formulas. As a lover of vintage perfume, I was thrilled to discover this storied house whose packaging harkens back to a time when details mattered from the flacon to the presentation.

Nikolay Bogdanov-Belsky (russian painter) - Reading a Letter (1892)

Nikolay Bogdanov-Belsky  – Reading a Letter (1892)

Cuir de L’Aigle Russe was originally released in 1892, and translates as Leather of Russian Eagles. The description references the Russian aristocracy, rooms hung in golden brocades, gleaming samovars holding smoky teas. The opening of Cuir de L’Aigle Russe is bright and herbal/floral and somewhat mentholated, reminiscent of scented geraniums after a good rain. I occasionally get the slightest hint of rose, as if it was being carried on on a breeze to my window as I dressed for the evening’s gala.

Grand Duke Serge, colorized. He is arrayed in 17th century dress for the great imperial costume ball of 1903

Grand Duke Serge, colorized. He is arrayed in 17th century dress for the great imperial costume ball of 1903

 It’s rather intoxicating our here on the terrace among the flowers as I await the Grand Duke. Even before I see him, I sense his presence I begin to notice the unmistakable scent of his leather gloves. Not his boots, nor his saddle, but those gloriously smooth, supple gloves, their fragrance amplified by the warmth of his skin. It’s rather intoxicating, really, out here in the garden with the soft breeze and flowers all around me, being gently led by this charming man and his gorgeous leather gloves back into the house; by now

The historical Amber Room is located in the Catherine Palace near St. Petersburg

The historical Amber Room is located in the Catherine Palace near St. Petersburg

I am enchanted, mesmerized by the roses in the air and the suede-like softness of those gloves… and suddenly I realize I have been led to the room hung with golden brocade. Only it isn’t brocade at all, it’s amber, and the smokiness in the air isn’t tea – it’s labdanum, styrax, benzoin and frankincense;I am  lost in a haze of resiny, ambery bliss. The seduction is complete. 

russian  vintage scented glove

The sillage of Cuir de L’Aigle Russe is excellent and longevity is overnight. I get 8 hours of strong scent, and could still smell the resins and a bit of bergamot 12 hours after applying. The leather accord is particularly well done and brings back memories of my grandfather’s tannery where the skins for fine ladies gloves were treated with rose and other herbs.

 Disclosure: My thanks again to Twisted Lily for sending me the sample; their kindness didn’t affect my opinion (or fantasy!) at all.

Tammy Schuster, Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn

Please read our reviews of Deja Le Printemps, Oeillet Louis XV, Relique d’Amour,  Reve d’OssianMuguet Fleurie,  Foin Fraichment Coupé Violette du Czar and Chypre Mousse

oriza l legrande sampler perfume

Thanks to the incredible generosity of Hugo Lambert of Oriza L. Legrand we are offering three registered readers anywhere in the world a special discovery kit with 2ml x all 15 perfumes . To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Tammy’s review, if you have ever tried any Oriza L. Legrand fragrances and where you live. Draw closes 2/5/2016.

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume.

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42 comments

  • I enjoyed Tammy’s review, especially the historical aspects of it! I felt as if I were an aristocrat and the fragrance was commissioned for me. I could smell the leather gloves against the skin with the breeze in the garden and flowers all around. This was a really great review! Thanks for the draw and the opportunity! 🙂

  • What I enjoyed about Tammy’s review of Oriza L Legrande is the historical presence of this fragrance house 400 years and still making great fragrances amazing. I have tried Oriza L Legrande’s Vetiver Royal Bourbon a classy scent
    I am from America

  • fazalcheema says:

    Oriza Legrande is really staying true to its heritage. I have read many people proclaiming Oriza’s creations have vintage vibe to them and even the Nouveau Art labels are hard to ignore. This Cuire de Laigle Russe also seems to have the vintage vibe as many other creations from the house have. The amber, smokiness, and geranium make it seem it is quite an unusual russian leather creation and not like the one from Chanel. The timing is a coincidence because last week I got Grenoville Cologne de Russe from 1920-1930s and it also has certain sweetness to it.

    Thanks a lot for the opportunity to try all. I have just smelled Chypre Mousse and it is, indeed, vintage and one of a kind. I am in the US.

  • Elizabeth T says:

    What a generous draw! I have not tried any Oriza L. Legrande fragrances, but love when classical houses are brought back. It makes me sad when all that heritage is lost… so glad this one is still going, and has recreated many of its former library.
    I’m the USA. Thank you for the draw!

  • Another re-issue from their classic formulas? Sounds good. Love Tammy’s vivid imagery while describing the scent.
    Have smelt the line, it’s a toss-up between Muguet Fleurie and Chypre Mousse for me.
    I live in Singapore.

  • I have not tried a Oriza L. Legrande. I enjoyed the historical aspect of the article. I’d like to try first the Foin Fraichement Coupe based on what I read at other places. 🙂 US

  • Leather and Amber? Sounds like a perfect combination. I also love the vintage box and decoration. I have heard a lot of good reviews on the internet about the brand but have not had a chance to try any of their perfumes.

    I’m in Canada. Thanks for the draw

  • Love the sound of geranium, leather, and resins! I have only tried Muguet Fleurie, and I would love to try Chypre Mousse. I am in the US, thanks!

  • Thanks for the review and the draw. I haven’t tried many of the line, but Vetiver Royal Bourbon, and Cuir d l’Aigle Russe are on my sample list! Loved reading about the history and interested to see how they have approached the traditional formulas for a contemporary market. I’m in Canada.

  • baroness_octothorpe says:

    Amber, leather, & smoke? Heaven on toast points, as my old voice teacher used to say. I haven’t yet tried any of their line, and I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Parfummaniac says:

    Awesome written by Tammy, so passionated and filled with a words which makes me even more curious about this great draw. Living in the Netherlands and perfume-addicted since so many years. thanks for this oppertunity !

  • I didn’t know that the heritage of Oriza L. Legrande went so far back. I think it’s wonderful that they have recreated old fragrances, since I also love vintage. I have heard some good things about Oriza L. Legrande and have wanted to try some of their perfumes especially Violette du Czar. Of course, trying all of them would be even better. 🙂 Live in the US.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I enjoyed the reading of the Fantasy that the scent of the leather gloves enter the room before ist wearer. I love the Idea behind Oriza L. Legrande perfumes. I haven’t tried any of the yet but I love too. tahnks for the draw!

    I live in the EU, Austria

  • Tammy’s creative mind gives me a great sense of what this smells like. 400 years of fragrance making is a awesome feat and still running with some current offerings dating back to the early 1900’s. I have not smelled any from the line but I really would like to try the older ones. Thanks for the giveaway from HI.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I loved the way Tammy’s scent description was put into historical context/described alongside historical details. I love it when a review gives a sense of place and has a “main character” in it as well. This sounds lovely, being a fan of most Cuir de Russies I have experienced! I’ve only quickly sampled this line, but I remember enjoying the one that had “Chypre” in its name. Thanks for the draw–I’m in the US.

  • bunchofpants says:

    How interesting that Tammy’s grandfather owned a tannery! I bet that is the source of many rich scent memories. Cuir de L’Aigle Russe sounds divine. I’ve not yet tried any Oriza L. Legrande fragrances … I would love to change that! I’m in USA.

  • I would love this sample set of a line I have yet to experience. Knowing the house goes back over 400 years makes it all the more intriguing. Tammy tied in the sense of history well with her descriptive writing.

  • I always have a soft-spot for leather scents and Tammy made this one sound so seductive and regal! I also love the connection to the historical past of the house. I haven’t had the chance to sample any Oriza L. Legrande scents yet, but I’m intrigued by several, including Cuir de L’Aigle Russe, Heliotrope Blanc, Royal Oeillet and Horizon. I’m in the US and would love to try them!

  • WOW… I felt like this was really happening like in a movie. I love the description of meeting the Grand Duke and especially knowing he was there because his gloves had a scent. Also interesting that Tammy’s granddad had a tannnery. I am in the USA I own a bottle of Violette du Czar and really love soft leather perfumes so would love to win the sampler. VERY interesting review and history

  • That is so incredible they’ve opened the archives and recreated many of their fragrances! I’ve never heard of this company before. I would love to try some of their scents!
    I live in the U.S.

  • Wow! 400 years, thats some awesome continuity! When this perfume was originally released my native Finland was still a part of Russia, so I kind of feel a connection to the inspiration. There is something romantic and rather exotic about old Russia. The Russia of that age is just a very distant memory… I live the images and the descriptions in this review! Thay made me feel for a moment like I was there!

    I have never tried any perfumes from Oriza L. Legrande but I would love to! I live in Finland.

  • This sounds lovely and I’m surprised to read it has such longevity!

    I ADORE Chypre Mousse – it’s one of the most beautiful and unusual fragrances put there – and Relique d’Amour, which I wear often.

    In the US

    Cheers

  • It’s the first I’ve heard about Oriza L. and it’s incredible that this house already exists almost 400 years, surely one of the oldest fragrance houses. It’s nice to see that all this history has not been lost over time. Cuir de l’Aigle Russe sounds to be a very nice fragrance.
    I’m in the US

  • I really like the historical data or this house.I havent the opportunity to try any of Oriza L. Legrande fragrances.I hope to be the first.I live in Greece.
    Ty for the draw!!!

  • Tammy’s review was so well written that I felt like I was experiencing the fragrance in the same way she was. Somehow I have never heard of Oriza L. Legrande, but their bottles are quite charming. I live in the US.

  • I had no idea this fragrance house was so old. Finally….a house that I have experienced their fragrances. I have tried Marions Nous which I wasn’t crazy about, but of course will try again. Funny how sometimes I try something, think I don’t like it, then end up loving it. I enjoy Reve d”ossian. Maybe it’s the pine or the clove. I would be thrilled to try the sampler, especially the part about not having to choose which one! Thanks! Rox

  • This is a wonderful review. I have enjoyed every single sentence. I have not tried any of Oriza L. Legrande fragrances, but from the review it sounds incredible good. I live in Europe. Thank you for the chance.

  • Amazing review! I haven’t heard of this house before but they sound extremely good. Especially with this wonderful draw where you can experience a ton of scents! Thank you so much and I’m in Canada

  • i like the Russian references in this review and enjoy the evocative description of the perfume. I like the vintage style labels that are on their bottles, so indicative of another time! I have tried Chypre Mousse, but no others. I would love to be able to try out the entire line. Thank you for the draw! USA

  • pursejunkie says:

    Thank you for covering the history of this interesting house. I have tried several Oriza L. Legrande scents, Horizon being my favorite so far. I am very excited to try more, especially this new leather scent.
    U.S.

  • I really like the florals in this fragrance. I think they mix wonderfully and make for a very upscale scent. I haven’t tried Oriza L. Legrande, so hoping to win this draw!

    I’m a Canadian reader.

  • Well these sound intriguing, and their website is just adorable! I loved being immersed in Tammy’s fantasy, she really brought the leather to life – and the graphics as always were also perfectly in sync <3 I have never had the pleasure of trying anything from thi houe, so what an amazing draw this is! I live in New York City in the USA!

  • I have never heard of this perfume house and must thank Cafleurebon again for introducing me to many wonderful perfume houses!

    I love vintage perfumes and I find it amazing that the original formulas are still available. I love the historical references in this review.

    I’m very excited for this draw. I live in the USA. Thank you!!!

  • I love this brand, its history and its packaging, it is really appealing to me. They also have wonderful soaps and candles and I would be glad to discover the whole line. I liked the pictures in this review, specially the Amber Room in Saint Petersbourg and the author talking about samovars holding smoky teas ….. I would like to smell now this Aigle Russe…and the rest of the fragrances.
    I live in EU . Thanks.

  • I’ve been curious about this line for a while but have never managed to come across it in my sniffing. It’s wonderful that they can have access to the formulations and recreate them to the best that current regulations allow. I loved how his gloves kept being referred to in the review – very evocative. I’m in Australia.

  • I haven’t tried any of the fragrances and I’ve been wanting to for quite some time! Everything Russian is quite fashionable in the UK after the – very successful- adaptation of War and Peace. The Amber room is a place I defintely want to visit!!

  • I enjoyed Tammy’s review (and fantasy) of this legendary house. I would love to learn more. (Leather of Russian Eagles – what an amazing name!) I have not yet had the pleasure of wearing an Oriza L. Legrande fragrance and I live in the US.

  • It’s a very vivid olfactory image that Ms. Schuster painted! I find myself mainly lured in by the promise of smokiness – a good leather fragrance should smolder. 🙂 The impression the review leaves me with is of a very opulent, warm scent.
    I live in Canada, and I haven’t tried any Oriza L. Legrand creations. Thanks for the draw!

  • I loved the historical atmosphere to this review… whenever a perfume review goes down that route, my interest is piqued. I love that Oriza L. Legrand is “all in” on its history, and that the bottle and label designs hearken back to an earlier era. The taseel on the bottle for Violettes du Czar makes me wish I was a bigger violet fan, but Chypre Mousse really intrigues me. I’m in the US; thank you for the draw!

  • I loved the image of the Grand Duke arriving and the smells associated with him and his environment. I’ve tried several Oriza L. Legrang frangrances, my favorite being Chypre Mousse. I am in the U.S. Thanks for the draw!

  • Very nice review Tammy! I haven’t tried any fragrances from this house, but maybe I will in the future. Thank you so much for the draw!

    I’m international (Toronto)

  • What I enjoyed in Tammy’s review of Oriza L. Legrande is the historical presence of this perfume house for about 400 years and still in the making of great perfumes this is a wonder situation.
    I have not tried anything from the house of Oriza L Legrande’s but I would be more than trilled to win the sampler set.
    I live in EU, Greece and I thank you both for the lovely review and so generous draw!!!