The most recent release Mon Parfum Cheri is in honor of their 30th year of existence. When I read that I have to say I was very surprised. If you had asked me how long Annick Goutal had been in existence I think my guess would have been closer to twenty than thirty. I know most people like to say they look younger but I’m guessing the opposite is true when it comes to perfume houses as the more history the better. Certainly Annick Goutal’s history is full of amazing fragrances and there are many from the line which grace my dresser. It has been awhile since I have been enchanted by a new release though.
The last one that grabbed me was Ninfeo Mio. The releases since then have been good but not amazing for me. When I was first testing Mon Parfum Cheri I thought it was going to be another of the good but not amazing ones but out of a pedestrian beginning, a true jewel of a perfume blossomed.
Isabelle Doyen, as the in-house nose for Annick Goutal, was the perfumer behind Mon Parfum Cheri and under the guidance of Camille Goutal they chose to create a perfume of deep bass notes. The problem for many is going to be the note they use at both top and base is patchouli and not only is it patchouli but it is a powerful almost overwhelming version of it. It is so overpowering in the beginning it made me think it was all there was going to be from Mon Parfum Cheri. It also made me think it was a little ordinary. Over the next hour or so Mme Doyen uses a deft hand to cause notes of orris, plum, violet and heliotrope to arise from the sea of patchouli and create something very memorable.
As I said the opening is a fine patchouli and it is 100% patchouli. If you don’t like patchouli stop reading and walk away there is nothing here for you. This is an arid version of patchouli parched and dusty as it comes off my skin. For about 15-20 minutes that is all there is and if I made the mistake to go get a wipe and remove it I would have missed Mme Doyen’s olfactory magic trick.
First she reaches inside the swirling patchouli and ever so slowly pulls out a fine rich orris. This is akin to one of the great orris butters I was able to try a couple of years ago; both creamy and sharp it is a magical ingredient and in Mon Parfum Cheri it is indeed supernatural in the way it combines with the patchouli.
I have smelled orris and patchouli before but I have never smelled it like this.
Each note is used to delineate and amplify the other and they combine to form a deep accord that is herbal, buttery, and astringent. Violet is next to arrive and it is used to pull out the sharper floral aspects of the orris. Heliotrope accentuates the herbal nature of the patchouli. The last ingredient to be pulled out of Mme Doyen’s magical mist is plum. This plum is there to add a little bit of sweetness to things and it does it excellently. As Mon Parfum Cheri moves towards its end it is the patchouli, orris, and plum that remain and finish something which started so ordinary, extraordinarily.
Mon Parfum Cheri has outstanding longevity and average sillage.
Mme Doyen has taken two notes, in patchouli and orris, and by marrying those to a dark plum created a perfume that exemplifies everything that is great about Annick Goutal.
Bon anniversaire Annick Goutal!
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by a reader. Thanks Carol Tatti !.
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
Art Direction – Michelyn Camen EIC
Carol has also provided a sample to be given away. To be eligible just leave a comment naming your own supernatural olfactive experience, your favorite Annick Goutal perfume or your milestone birthday. The draw will end on October 25, 2011.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume