French Actress Cécile Aubry photographed on the beach for Life Magazine, 1950. © Philippe Halsman
Pretty is good. No, I’m not talking about the grudging praise of “pretty good”. I’m singing loudly out of my window, finally open as the spring sun is shining bright, “I LOVE PRETTY!” The beauty of niche and artisanal perfumery is that the field is wide open for creative minds and hearts to create fragrances of every imaginable sort. There are the artistic, abstract fragrances that challenge the mind. There are complex, dense perfumes that are masterpieces of composition that would never be able to be produced for the mass market. There are also very lovely, wearable perfumes that earn their niche stripes by the great care with which they are blended and highest quality ingredients used. The new release, Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise, is unapologetically pretty.
White Peony is the star of Lust in Paradise © Janosh Diggelmann
I have travel size bottles of almost every Ex Nihilo release, but the two full bottles I have bought and love are Fleur Narcotique and Musc Infini. Lust in Paradise is their love child. The lychee and peony of the former is coupled with the musk of the latter to create a beautiful, playful daughter – an innocently sexy creature who languidly moves through the warmth of the French Riviera. My mind wanders to French ingenue Cécile Aubrey in a modest but provocative bikini stretched out on the beach.
View from hotel bar on Cap d’Antibes © Sandro di Carlo Darsa
Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise is part of the Parisian house’s “Les Interdites Collection” – the Forbidden. The other fragrances in the family are Sweet Morphine, Devil Tender, Love Shot, and Viper Green. The concept is fragrances that cause a sweet addiction; the tag line for Lust in Paradise is “French Riviera Addiction”. It’s true in the case of Lust in Paradise as I can’t stop smelling my wrist while wearing it. The fragrance opens immediately with a lush peony accord with just enough pink pepper to tickle your nose in a beguiling manner. The prettiness of the peony lingers and is joined by the mouth-watering scent of lychee fruit. This heart of the perfume is quite long lasting before settling down to its last phase, a warm amber and musky base with the faint scent of peony still laying on top. The longevity is excellent and perfect for spring daywear and to be used as a base in the evening for a complementary heavier hitter (I suggest Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique.)
Louise Turner of Givaudan
The creator of Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise is Louise Turner. It’s not too much of a surprise that she also created one of the first fragrances for the house, Musc Infini in 2013 as I can sense its ghost in the base of Lust in Paradise. Ms. Turner is having an extremely successful creative run these past two of years. She signed (with Yann Vasnier) The Jo Malone Wild Flowers and Weeds Collection including fragrances like Cade and Cedarwood released earlier this year. Ms. Turner was the perfumer behind last year’s big buzz, Tom Ford Lost Cherry.This young English perfumer is not only creating for niche houses, she has signed numerous popular fragrances for designers like Carolina Herrera, Chloé, Maison Margiela, Mugler, and Roberto Cavali.
Spring is brave in its prettiness © Nazym Jumadilova
As spring is springing for most of us in the northern hemisphere we are seeing crocuses, daffodils and magnolias brave the crisp air. I almost always hear myself sigh aloud, “pretty” when I see them when I am out on my city walks. That sweet, contented feeling of wonder at pretty is not to be scoffed at. It is to be celebrated. Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise does just that. Notes: pink pepper; peony; lychee; white cedarwood, musk, amber.
– Marianne Butler – Senior Contributor
Sample kindly supplied by Bergdorf Goodman. My opinions are my own.
Thanks to the generosity of Ex Nihilo at Bergdorf Goodman we have a 7.5 ml deluxe travel spray of Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise for one registered reader in the USA (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Marianne’s review of Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise and if you think “pretty” is more than “pretty good”. Draw closes 3/14/2019
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @spritzi_mcgillautty @exnihiloparis @bergdorfs
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.