Event Report: Pitti Fragranze 21 (Ermano) + Best of Show Giveaway

Best perfumes at Pitti Fragranze 21

The entrance of Pitti Fragranze 21 ©Ermano

Pitti Fragranze 21 was held on September 15-17, 2023, with 189 brands exhibiting of which140  were not from Italy and with a  great presence of international buyers and press. I started working on my report right on the train back to Milan to note my first impression on fragrant discoveries, but as usual I will let them macerate, fitting together as the first lines of a wider puzzle, and will spend the next weeks to check back on all the fragrances to properly make up my mind. No doubt in three days I missed lots of amazing scents that hopefully I will try in the near future.

The Symbiotic Experience at Pitti Fragranze 21 ©Ermano Picco

This year’s theme takes us on a journey beyond the traditional boundaries of perception in a synthesis of senses combining art, craftsmanship, and artifice: Perception Reinvented. More and more the world of fragrances combines these expressions in a colorful, fluid, and up-to-date language enabled by AI within the metaverse framework to engage young audience. That’s exactly what the installation Symbiotic Experience set inside the Alcatraz Space of the Stazione Leopolda showcases, emotionally amplified by Alessandro Meistro’s soundtrack specifically composed for the event. The curators, journalists Paola Gariboldi and Susanna Macchia, called on four digital artists and four perfumers with the task of exploring new dimensions of sensing and enjoying fragrances.

Perfumers Anna D’Errico, Coralie Spicher, and Jérôme Di Marino

Symbiotic Experience: Darkness Rewind, Nebulosa, Ethereal Blossom, Shaping Nature, left to right, top to bottom ©Ermano Picco

Darkness Rewind
Fragrance by Serge Majoullier (a cocoa laden, powdery floral) – Mane
Digital Artwork by Giovanna Sala

Ethereal Blossom
Fragrance by Alberto Morillas (a jammy, dewy rose on a gauzy bed of musks) – DSM Firmenich
Digital Artwork by Bonnie Tsang

Nebulosa
Fragrance by Coralie Spicher (a sticky, glossy raspberry wrapped in plastic bubbles) – DSM Firmenich
Digital Artwork by Gisella Alfieri Sabattini

Shaping Nature
Fragrance by Jérôme Di Marino (an intense white floral dipped in a microchips tea infusion) – Mane
Digital Artwork by Alex Valentina

Best of Show 2023 Pitti Fragranze 21

Perfumers Coralie Spicher and Jérôme Di Marino gave insights on the making of their creations during the presentation conference of the exhibition, while Neuroscientist Anna D’Errico stressed how AI tools rely on specific words as a feed, which in visual and fragrant creators triggers specific brain areas, unlocking a smooth translation of images into smells.

Now let’s go through the best discoveries I made strolling through the booths.

Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19.1

 Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19.1 ©Ermano Picco

My exploration starts from a rock-solid certainty, Olivier Durbano whose booth near the entrance is the same since many years. A new gem joins his Parfums des Pierres-Poême, Pierre Blanche Prophétie 19 :1.0 that’s a unique take on glowing ambrette absolute with a grain of signature incense. Radiating pureness and serenity, the fragrance feels like a morning walk in the forests, inhaling the foggy breath of trees.

Maria Candida Gentile Viridarium

 Maria Candida Gentile ©Ermano Picco

After a few years hiatus, Maria Candida Gentile makes a welcome return to Fragranze with the new Viridarium, a creation inspired by the quintessential garden in ancient Roman Villas. Starting from the famous fresco found in the Villa of the Roman Empress Livia Drusilla, almost a handbook on botany and landscape architecture, the perfumer blended a timeless bouquet of citrus, chamomile, bittersweet herbs, and resinous woods infusing her distinctive emotional touch.

The Austrian perfume brand Estoras

 Estoras at Pitti Fragranze 21 ©Ermano Picco

The Austrian brand Estoras lines up two new creations after the charming Antal, a spiced, aromatic, and mineral dry woods composed by Marie Le Febvre conjuring the heat of the Sahara. The desert crossing in the footsteps of Prince Antal Esterházy and his friend Count Lászlo Almásy, the English Patient, goes on with Port of Alexandria and Shadows of Giza, both composed by Hungarian perfumer Zsolt Zolyomi. The first is a coniferous ozonic citrus which manages to be distinctive thanks to swirls of cold spices. The latter is a light floral chypre featuring a delicate floral tea accord sprinkled with the humid chill of basil juxtaposing the signature mineral touch running through the whole line.

Vadou and Coquet by Alexx and Anton

 Vadou and Coquet by Alexx and Anton ©Ermano Picco

One of the emerging trends at Pitti Fragranze 21 was  the comeback of non-spray perfume. Together with a slight downturn of new releases, the bewildered customer looking for a less muscular aka overpowering perfume finds a match with brands like Alexx and Anton. The Berlin based creative duo coming from fashion dazzlingly entered the perfume game with a limited-edition capsule collection of two fragrances, Vaudou and Coquet composed by perfumer Will Inrig. The inspiration is the golden boy and his path to adult consciousness. A gorgeous amber, the first blends sweet and mineral resins to smoky and leathery notes.  Intensely floral with a bouquet of rose, ylang-ylang and carnation, the latter also bears an addictive unctuousness with solar and chypre hints. The ultimate chic though is the Japanese porcelain flacon with the classic parfum stopper you can use to let a few drops on your pulse points.

Vérsatile Paris at Pitti Fragranze 21 2023

 Vérsatile Paris ©Ermano Picco

Another confirmation of the trend comes from Vérsatile Paris. Claiming that “size doesn’t matter”, the first offers affordable 15ml roll-on alcohol-free fragrances that can easily fit into a bag or a pocket. Secondary packaging is colorful perfect for Instagram, while scents are simple and pleasurable. Yet some bring a nice twist like the pistachio and basil laden Rital Date, inspired by Italy.

Voskanian Histoire d’une rose

Voskanian Histoire d’une rose ©Ermano Picco

The bourgeoning of brands from emerging areas keeps bringing a breath of fresh air speaking about raw materials, and creativity. That’s the case of Armenian self-taught perfumer Voskanian at his third appearance in the Florentine Salon. After last year’s exquisitely juicy green Soie Verte, he introduced Histoire d’une rose, a gorgeous chypre rose empowered by rose oil from Aragyugh, in the Armenian highlands which usually is used in cosmetics. As I pointed out talking to Mr. Voskanian, you can totally feel its high-altitude sourcing from the amazing crispness reminiscent of Taif rose.

Ida Meister, Ermano Picco and Lauryn Beer of Cafleurebon

A quick selfie with Ida and Lauryn ©Ermano Picco

 Last but not least, after a long time I was happy to see again my fellow ÇaFleureBon fragrant plumes Danu, Ida, and Lauryn from The United States and France. Time flies so fast when you have fun, and I wish I could have had more time to spend together. Looking forward to reading  their reports from Florence!

-Ermano Picco, Editor and editor for Essencional magazine

Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19 1.0

Thanks to the generosity of Olivier Durbano, we have a sample of a favorite from Pitti Fragranze 21 of Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19.1. for one registered reader in the U.S., Canada , UK or the EU. YOU MUST REGISTER OR YOUR COMMENT WILL NOT COUNT. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what struck you about Ermano’s event recap of Pitti Fragranze 21  Draw closes 10/1/2023

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26 comments

  • perusegenesis says:

    Thank you for describing the event in such a beautiful way, looking forward to read the experiences of the ladies, too. Interesting theme and interesting that non-sprays are making a comeback, I need to play with them more. Prophetie sounds beautiful, I’m on an incense kick lately. Thank you!

  • Jeremi says:

    The way Ermano almost teleported me to this wonderful event by this review which was captivating and intriguing in every part really struked me. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU.

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    I’m really curious about this fragrance. I like ambrette, and appreciate a unique spin that conveys a morning walk in the forest. I live in Maryland USA.

  • Genevieve Martini says:

    I’m excited to read the Maria Candida Gentile has a new release, I have most of her scents in my collection. ~ Canada

  • scent.kyphi says:

    I couldn’t join Pitti this time, so I thank Ermano for this recap that transported me there! I live in Germany

  • Amaziz89 says:

    he introduced Histoire d’une rose, a gorgeous chypre rose empowered by rose oil from Aragyugh, in the Armenian highlands which usually is used in cosmetics. As I pointed out talking to Mr. Voskanian, you can totally feel its high-altitude sourcing from the amazing crispness reminiscent of Taif rose. I am intrigued by Voskanian and intrigued by the ingredients. Great description by Ermano very interesting and descriptive. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Amaziz89 says:

    that’s a unique take on glowing ambrette absolute with a grain of signature incense. Radiating pureness and serenity, the fragrance feels like a morning walk in the forests, inhaling the foggy breath of trees. A beautiful description by Ermano really intrigued by ambrette and Incense. All the brands sound great. Thanks a lot from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    carnation, the latter also bears an addictive unctuousness with solar and chypre hints. The ultimate chic though is the Japanese porcelain flacon with the classic parfum stopper you can use to let a few drops on your pulse points. I am really fascinated by the notes especially Leather, rose and amber. A beautiful description by Ermano just sounds captivating and adventurous. From the UK

  • Bessez says:

    Thank you ermano for the virtual tour of Pitti Fragranze
    I enjoyed the photo and the insights into your favorites many I don’t know so thanks
    Most interested in learning more about Olivier Durbano who I see featured here a lot and Maria Candide Gentile.
    Eu

  • Wendy says:

    I love Ermano’s recap of the event and am pleasantly surprised by the mention of Maria Candida Gentile’s return.
    Maria Candida Gentile is a perfume house that I never hear enough people talking about. Personal favorites from this house are Syconium and Noir Tropical. I have never been disappointed when any of my purchases from them so, I’m super excited to try out their newest addition, Viridarium!
    Much love from NY, US!

  • cnii says:

    I’ve never been to a fragrance expo like this, so it was very fun to experience vicariously! Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy sounds lovely, and I’d love to try this sample. Thanks for the report, and giveaway! I’m in the US.

  • Teresa C says:

    It was great to hear about the new directions perfumery is exploring and to get a run down on some of the latest fragrances. My list of Want To Try grows longer and longer…

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the nice recap of your time Ermano.

    It’s interesting to see the world of perfume catching up with the innovations and explorations in AI/ML. Our perception is governed by so many factors and it’s interesting to see how this tech can be used to warp our perception of a scent.

    Also love seeing Olivio Durbano and Maria Candida Gentile once again.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • zazazelle says:

    Thank you for this reportage! New release by Maria Candida Gentile captured my interest. Other brands were mostly unknown to me.
    Yes, I wanna tray that “pureness and serenity, like a morning walk in the forests”, thank you for the opportunity!
    From Latvia, EU

  • mmerline says:

    The Symbiotic Experience exhibit is a really interesting take on integrating AI developments with perfumery and instillation art exhibition. On top of that, Nebulosa and Shaping Nature sound like unusual, challenging compositions. Estoras Antal also caught my attention “conjuring the heat of the Sahara.” I also love seeing small bottles on display; I’d love to be able to add more to my collection, but I’ll never use up a large bottle on my own, so smaller decant bottles are perfect. Thanks for the coverage, Ermano.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Amy Leonhardt says:

    Interesting to read about how AI and music were used to help enhance the perception of scents, though AI is the last thing I think of when considering fragrance. Thank you for sharing the standouts.
    -Amy US

  • mdellaroc says:

    What a fun experience. I haven’t moved towards non sprayable perfumes just yet. I really enjoy how they smell when sprayed although I do own one roll on from DSH. IN MARYLAND.

  • jojosi3 says:

    I enjoyed the interesting take on ambrette and incense. The writing was quite poetic, and I liked Ermano’s description that the Parfums des Pierres-Poême, Pierre Blanche Prophétie 19 :1.0 fragrance feels like a morning walk in the forests, inhaling the foggy breath of trees. This is a GORGEOUS image and a scene I would crave to be in and smell. All the brands sound great. Thanks you for the giveaway, from Canada!

  • TimoF says:

    Thanks for the lovely recap of Pitti Fragranze 21 and the sharing of your best discoveries. Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19.1.0 sounds really interesting and mysterious, I would love to experience it. I’m from the Netherlands (EU).

  • Cynthia says:

    I would love to try Olivier’s newest scent. He truly imparts a bit of magic into his creations. Plus I love his touch with incense. I am in the USA. Thanks for the report!

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I wish more brands would do smaller bottles like Vérsatile Paris. I have so many 100 ml bottles I may never finish as my taste in fragrance changes. Welcome back Maria Candida Gentile, those notes in that new fragrance sound amazing!! I’ll have to see if that is available in the US. Oliver Durbano’s new scent sound perfect for fall with the incense and the walk through the forest. I’d love to smell that. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • LightOfJoy says:

    The report of the new perfume Pierre Blanche Prophétie 19 :1.0 stood out to me. The concept and imagery is very interesting, and I find that the notes described seem very appropriate for these scripture verses.

    The pictures were also very fun. The bottles of VERSATILE PARIS are just lovely. I don’t prefer using my fingers to apply to pulse points (I’ve gotten perfume in my eyes one too many times), so I think that a roll on is a perfect alternative. I also appreciate that they can be obtained in smaller quantities for an affordable price. So approachable!

    I’d love to enter the drawing. I’m in Texas, USA.

  • castlemicro says:

    Hello from Florida, and thank you to Ermano for the event recap!
    Pitti Fragranze sounds like it was a great time.

  • Meryl says:

    Great recap ermano
    Really appreciate all the photos and highlights of different smaller houses as well. Estoras and Olivier Durbano white stone are the most interesting to me

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I appreciated hearing things which are new to me, e.g. Vadou and Coquet by Alexx and Anton, and I appreciate being reminded about companies which I’ve heard of before, e.g. Voskanian. I’d like to try Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19.1. I live in the U.S.A.