Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede (Etienne de Swardt and Antoine Lie) 2023 +what’s in a name giveaway

Etat libre D'Orange Clean Suede

Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede by Karl©

One could ask, ‘What’s in a name?’ Sometimes a name can conjure up specific thoughts and emotions. When I discovered Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede this immediately sprung to mind. Clean: free of dirt or stains and suede, a fleshed up velvety leather. That creates a division, two things being opposed and entirely different. This contradiction intrigued me and I wanted to discover more.

Etienne De Swardt of Etat Libre D'Orange and perfumer Antoine Lie

Etienne De Swardt and Antoine Lie courtesy of  the brand

Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede plays an olfactory game which is incredibly effective. Like a dual personality, going back and forth, it is bewildering, enticing and completely unexpected. I liken it to the good versus bad elements of a person. One minute genteel and calm, the next ready to do whatever it takes to resolve a situation by any means possible. When I spritzed Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede my mind immediately jumped between its fresh and sparkling side and a darkly erotic aspect which was apparent right from the start.

Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede reminded me of a portion of a video I recently listened to: “A gentleman can be dangerous”. Some of my favourite television series spring to mind; Breaking Bad, Sons of Anarchy and Prison Break. This duality of softness versus aggression typifies this fragrance in my opinion.

courtesy of Unsplash

The opening of Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede is akin to showering away the iniquities of the previous evening’s adventures and feeling awake and luminous. Soapy aldehydes mixing with citrus by way of lemon. It has a sherbet kick reviving the mind and body. This crispness is branched with a verdant aspect. Birch, cypress and galbanum create a vastness about the perfume which makes one want to inhale deeply. As I imbibe the scent, I can pick up the slightest latex note possibly from orris which stays in the background, it creates a menacing undertone which was unexpected. It lurks in the backdrop for a while and welcomes in a darkness to the composition.

Then suddenly, my senses are hit with pepper and saffron spice. Mixed with the iris the effect is a tobacco almost ashy cigarette smoke upon leather experience. The bracing tonality is offset with a vanilla and tonka bean combination which adds a velvety and smooth beauty to the fragrance. One is constantly pulled from pillar to post and slightly perplexed by Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede. It constantly entertains the senses and makes one question its motives.

Etat libre d'orange Tom of Finland was renamed Clean Suede in 2023

via Unsplash

Would I call it a clean fragrance? Certainly not! Would I call it dirty? No. It’s the ying and yang of perfumery to my nose. A contrast which works magic on the skin. Best for wearing casually but with purpose. Too risky for a suit attire, too exciting for a polo shirt and jeans. The perfect outfit for Clean Suede would be a dark t-shirt, leather jacket, distressed jeans and boots. I think it is brilliant in all its strangeness and a super collaboration between Etienne De Swardt and Antoine Lie. A must try.

Notes: Aldehyde, lemon, birch leaves, pine, pepper, vanilla, grey amber, suede.

Karl Topham, UK Ambassador and Senior Editor.

Disclosure:  Bottle kindly provided by Etat Libre d’Orange opinions are my own.

Clean Suede Etat Libre D'Orange

Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Etat Libre D’Orange we have a100ml bottle of Clean Suede for one registered reader in the EU or UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Karl’s review and where you live. What is your favourite Etat Libre D’Orange fragrance? Draw closes 8/21/23.

Please read: Michelyn’s interview with  Founder and Creative Director Etienne De Swardt here.

The Three Etat Libre D’Orange Perfumes You Should Be Wearing? Etienne’s suggestions here

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @etatlibreorange  @karl.topham

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39 comments

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    This is fresh, pure water, with top notes of aldehydes and lemon, a water that washes away the sins of the night and leaves the skin luminous.
    I am from EU

  • Not clean, not dirty… just perfect? To be confirmed, I really need to test this!:-)

    Even though I am a woman, my fav is Etat Libre D’orange – Je suis un homme. Imagine that 🙂

    I am from EU, Romania

  • liquidasset77 says:

    i would love to incorporate this new interpretation of leathery based fragrance for the fall. I’m. eager to see how they execute the freshness to maintain a clean effect. Michigan USA .

  • I’ve been hoping to hear more about this one. I have heard a few people speculate that it might be a replacement for Tom of Finland (rumors that their contract with ToF has possibly expired, etc). The two fragrances do share striking similarities in their note breakdowns. Interesting that Karl did not compare the two in his review. Regardless of those rumors, I am eager to give this one a try. I love ELDO and am always excited to see what they release next. Best of luck to all you UK and EU readers.

  • composition.

    Then suddenly, my senses are hit with pepper and saffron spice. Mixed with the iris the effect is a tobacco almost ashy cigarette smoke upon leather experience. The bracing tonality is offset with a vanilla and tonka bean combination which adds a velvety and smooth beauty to the fragrance. One is constantly pulled from pillar to post and slightly perplexed by Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede. It constantly entertains the senses and makes one question its motives. A beautiful description by Karl really intrigued by the dark side of this fragrance like Karl said good vs bad elements of person. I don’t know how the perfumer achieved this but it sounds exciting and dangerous. Thanks a million from the UK

  • to mind; Breaking Bad, Sons of Anarchy and Prison Break. This duality of softness versus aggression typifies this fragrance in my opinion. I am intrigued by this shape shifting fragrance smells like on skin. I am particularly intrigued by dark and spicy elements of this fragrance. Thanks a lot from United Kingdom

  • Wow wow ELDO with de Swardt and Antoine Lie. This sounds like a very interesting collaboration and the dual character of the fragrance described by Karl already peaks my interest. Not dirty, not clean, vintagey feminine and leathery/fougery masculine at the same time. This sounds like ride and count me in! Marit UK

  • I admit I am attracted to relatively cleaner leather scents though of course I enjoy such classics as Knize Ten and Cuir de Russie. Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede seems to employ both facets and anytime a fragrance is inspired by suede, it catches my attention. My fav. from Etat de Libre is Jasmine et Cigarette. I am in US.

  • The mystical and unexpected hint of pepper and saffron spice really sparks my interest. Hermann a Mes Cotes Me Paraissait Une Ombre is my favorite from Etat Libre D’Orange but this one of a kind masterpiece might be even more fascinating. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU.

  • Bryan Ponce says:

    This is an amazing brand. Winning a full bottle would definitely be a beautiful surprise.

  • My interest was sparked when the reviewer wrote, “One is constantly pulled from pillar to post and slightly perplexed by Etat Libre d’Orange Clean Suede. It constantly entertains the senses and makes one question its motives”. I don’t have a fave ELDO, I like several. US

  • Suede is such a tactile material, and seems to hold scent and perfume really well. Like Goldilocks, this one sounds just right. In the us. Oh, and I do not have a favorite Etat Libre D’Orange scent.

  • Jordan Peterson. What a horrible and retrograde person to refer to.

    Unbelievable.

    I’m sure someone will carry on about “free speech” now. Free to be loathsome, sure.

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    Aldehydes and Antione lie? I’m sold. I love his work. I think he’s the best doing it right now. I’d love to win this. I live in Indiana.

  • I Like that it’s not clean nor dirty fragrance. I really want to try this house. I love lemon and vanilla in the notes. I want to wear it with a outfit from this article. Im from eu

  • “Like a dual personality, going back and forth, it is bewildering, enticing and completely unexpected.”…is this perfume human????:)
    I am very curious in trying something different. Eldo Soul of my Soul is a favorite of mine. I live in London, UK.

  • Nice review Karl! When I read the noses of the fragrance before reading your post, I thought that only a great scent could be with the collaboration between Etienne De Swardt and Antoine Lie. The scent shows in the skin as full of contrasts. The name suggest a fresh leathery and it is in a way, just a way because like the olfactory game its, as you suggest, is much more as we are: the clean and fresh and the sweaty erotic, the calm and the adventurous , the innocent and the danger. The clean soap water, the man with a fresh towel in his waist, with aldehydes and lemon makes way, after the dark greens birch, cypress and galbanum, to a man putting on a leather jacket, thanks to spices and the leathery saffron with tonka &vanilla to become the perfect smooth operator. My favorite one is Marquis de Sade because I am a labdanum fan and this one has it all. I live in Spain, Eu.

  • Well written introduction by Karl of “*Etat Libre D’Orange Clean Suede*” What intrigued my interest in this fragrance was the mention of it being a ying and yang, good vs. bad and a fresh but dark erotic aspect. I have yet to try an offering from Etat Libre D’Orange. Thanks for the chance to explore a super collaboration between Etienne De Swardt and Antoine Lie. Greetings from the USA.

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    Dear Karl, enticing and undeniable writing.. I clearly must have more of this split personality. Clean and dirty at the same time, intriguing. Purity with dangerous curves. Etienne and Antoine an irresistible pairing. Count me in. Thank you, I live in SW France

  • Looking forward for a fragrance that I can rock in the autumn while wearing a pair of boots, a dark tshirt and my leather jacket.
    Clean Suede sounds perfect for this! Thanks!

  • isnt this perfume just a change of name and package for tom of finland? that’s what i think i’ve read elsewhere

  • The contrast of clean green and warm suede sound amazing, and of course anything described as magic gets my attention. My favorite ELDO to date is Putain des Palaces, I think. I live in the United States.

  • This ying and yang perfume sounds lovely. I have not tried anything from this brand before, but it seems to be a nice entrance into this house, considering it’s balance and many facets. I live in Sweden, EU.

  • This fragrance being described as neither clean nor dirty, tender and dangerous, with touches of lemony aldehydes and green elements of birch, cypress and galbanum and then a whiff of smokey cigarette spiciness – all these elements have triggered my curiosity the most. And also the fact that Etat Libre d’Orange is a guarantee, with some of my favorites from them being Jasmin et Cigarette, Putain des Palaces, Noel au Balcon etc.
    I live in the EU.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • This sounds like a perfect skin scent; neither clean nor dirty. It exhibits a duality and exemplifies living your life. Clean in the morning and accumulating spice as the day progresses. ELdO fragrances are always evocative. My favorite is Fat Electrician. I’m in the US.

  • Phillip_Barkley says:

    Greetings everyone
    Clean Suede is not a new fragrance, in sum I was told by the sales associate at Etat Libre d’Orange own boutique on 69 Rue des Archives in Paris it’s basically the same fragrance like the emblematic Tom of Finland.
    I went there to buy a new bottle of Frustration , and was asked about my favorites, and when I said Tom of Finland I was introduced to basically its new name, and presentation.
    Since I learned that at the boutique I guess it’s not a secret.
    Mr Topham review i enjoyed, no matter the name, Tom of Finland or Clean Suede the fragrance is so French, so Parisian fun , and slightly playful leather fragrance made from a memory of some old night long story.
    Mr Topham is also on point when he spoke contrast which works magic on skin in his essay. I’m perceiving iris too.
    I think Frustration is the best Etat Libre d’Orange fragrance , Tom of Finland aka Clean Suede comes second.
    Thank you , American living in Paris France

  • Ginandsniff says:

    Not the thing to take away from Karl’s test piece but the rebrand from Tom of Finland to this makes me a bit sad. But, as ever, Karl’s deception really makes this scent come alive on the page and the duality of the notes make it really interesting!

  • Ginandsniff says:

    *edits due to stupid typos*

    Not the thing to take away from Karl’s piece but the rebrand from Tom of Finland to this makes me a bit sad. But, as ever, Karl’s description really makes this scent come alive on the page and the duality of the notes make it really interesting!

  • Just in time as I’m about to dive into leather fragrances. I only own a couple and this sounds like the perfect addition. I love the smell of suede and the balance between dirty and clean is true art in itself. Can’t wait to try this one. Amber is the cherry on top for me…

    Indiana USA

  • “Bewildering, enticing and completely unexpected” – and “darkly erotic” too? What’s not to like? 🙂 I’m in the EU.

  • Shibuichi2000 says:

    I felt the same as Karl, upon seeing the name, and I very curious how did ELDO managed the transition from clean/fresh to suede/dark. Knowing some of their frags, this is going to be a joyride, I bet.
    Up til now, my favs are Like this and the memorable Ghost and her (?) shell :).
    I’m in EU.

  • carlos_lager says:

    I recently tested this scent and agree with Karl. It is neither clean nor dirty and really develops beautifully on skin. This was one of my favourites, that I sampled from Etat Libre D’Orange.
    Thank you for the chance to win a bottle.
    Greetings from the EU

  • wandering_nose says:

    Karl’s review is compelling and evocative, it makes me feel as if Clean Suede is the missing puzzle and the magical link between light crispness and somewhat riskey adventure. Dark hues, leather jackets and boots are my favorite style so I can easily see this fragrance as the cherry on the cake for night outings with a twist. My favorite from the line are Bijou Romantique and Divin’Enfant. I am based in the EU (Dublin, Republic of Ireland)

  • Clean Suede sounds like an unusual leather fragrance; soapy and light green up front, followed by smudgy vanilla and tonka sweetened suede. It’s an interesting duality that puts it up near the top of a list of Etat Libre d’Orange fragrances I’d love to try. However, I’m curious if this interesting clean and dirty juxtaposition wears differently from person to person. I suspect this is one that can vary wildly depending on skin chemistry—I’d hope for the lemon and pine to pop. Great review, Karl.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Michael Prince says:

    What sparks my interest of Etat Libre D’Orange Clean Suede based on Karl’s review is how he describes the interplay the yin and yang between the clean fresh lemon and aldehydes opening to the darker mysterious smoky suede aspects of the fragrance with a beautiful Vanilla and Gray Amber to tone down the darker drydown. This sounds like something I would really love. My favorite Etat Libre D’Orange fragrance is Exit the King. I am from the USA.

  • This is the type of fragrance I long to have in my collection. As it grows I am looking for more challenging scents and this sounds right up that alley. Throughout his review Karl constantly mentions the duality of the scent and how it pulls and tugs back and forth between a fresh clean smell and that leathery touch. That is something that I am sure is interesting on the nose. Then to add in that tobacco touch which is one of my favorite notes I am intrigued and want to get a smell.

    now as far as my favorite from the house it would have to be the only one that I own and that is You Or Someone Like You.

    I live in Dallas, TX

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the fun review Karl.

    I was not expecting this to be a fragrance of contrasts, considering the suede note. However,as with all Etat De Libre fragrances, there is always a plot twist. The use of birch and pine in this fragrance is absolutely stunning.

    Would love to get my nose on this. Fat Electrician is my favourite fragrance from this brand.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • I’m sorry but these notes scream by their own. I’m a total leather psychofan for example Cuir by Mona Di Orio is my personal fav. ‘I’m Trash’ by Etat is crazy! This sounds even better. I write from Poland