Senior Editor Karl Topham “The Scent of Celebration: Esxence 2025 15th Edition held February 19-22, 2025
The air in Milan this spring was saturated not only with the promise of warmer days but with the exhilarating aura of creativity and olfactory mastery. Celebrating its 15th edition, Esxence 2025 15th Edition reaffirmed its status as the world’s foremost event for artistic perfumery. With over three hundred and eighty exhibitors from across the globe, the “Masters of Dreams” theme delivered a platform where imagination and innovation intertwined seamlessly, bringing to life scents that defy convention and ignite the senses.
For those of us at ÇaFleureBon, Esxence has been a cherished event. Our longstanding relationship as a media partner since 2011, has been led by Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen. We thank Esxence founder Silvio Levi and the team at Equipe International, who gives us the opportunity to chronicle the evolution of niche perfumery, bearing witness to the birth of countless fragrant icons. Each year, the bar is set high, yet Esxence 2025 15th Edition felt exceptional—a year where boundaries were pushed, and artistry flourished. It was impossible for me to physically cover every booth, so these are my standouts.
Esxence 2025 15th Edition: The Buzziest
Kajal Ruby, Rubini, Nicolai Parfumeur Createur Creme Ebene, Discothèque Esxence 2025 15th Edition
Esxence Masters of Dreams 2025 had its stars: Kajal held the busiest booth, drawing an unending stream of visitors captivated by its intoxicating scents and vibrant displays. The new buzz on the block was Discothèque, whose fragrances infused the fair with the spirit of late-night revelry and carefree joy. Nicolai Parfumeur Createur emerged as the most refined, showcasing timeless elegance and sophistication, while Rubini Profumi stood out to me as the most artistic, weaving stories into every bottle with a level of creativity that felt like wearable poetry. Their stand was incredible and hand painted by Arloc.
Esxence 2025 15th Edition Scented Revelations
This year, I found myself navigating the bustling corridors of Esxence, surrounded by the hum of perfumers, brand founders, and fragrance enthusiasts. It seemed like every booth had its story to tell, offering compositions that captivated and lingered long after I’d left their presence.
What follows are the discoveries and experiences from each of the three days at Esxence 2025 15th Edition —each fragrance a revelation, each meeting a story waiting to be told.
Day 1: Esxence 2025 15th Edition A Bright Beginning
Kajal Ruby display by Karl©
Kajal Ruby was a standout, embodying the brand’s signature vibrancy and allure. The fragrance captivated with its fruity gourmand profile, where luscious red fruits met a creamy, indulgent base. With every spritz, Ruby evoked the richness of a jewel, blending sweetness with sophistication and drawing crowds to what was undoubtedly the busiest booth of the fair.
Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur Crème Ébène by Patricia de Nicolai was an indulgence of creamy woods and soft spices. The fragrance enveloped me in a cocoon of warmth and elegance, its smooth texture and subtle sweetness creating a sense of quiet luxury. Their Harrods exclusive Patchouli Spirit is one of the best new take on Patchouli I have smelt.
Astrophil & Stella Display by Karl©
Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro by Julien Rasquinet played with contrasts, blending the green sharpness of tomato leaf with metallic nuances. The result was fresh yet industrial, balancing the natural with the avant-garde. One of my favorites from the brand to date.
Yassin Karim of Noème Paris and his son at Esxence 2025 15th Edition
Noème Paris and Nissaba each showcased their mastery of vanilla in distinct and captivating ways. Noème Paris’s Sambava introduced a crystalline interpretation of vanilla with its Vanille Givrée Extract, combining fresh, icy nuances with subtle spices that danced on the skin.
Nissaba at Esxence
Nissaba Grande Île transported me to a tropical paradise, where vanilla’s creamy warmth intertwined with lush, exotic fruits, capturing the essence of a sun-drenched island breeze. Both brands reimagined vanilla not as a supporting note but as a star ingredient, demonstrating its versatility and timeless appeal.
Electimuss London launch of Moroccan Medjool with Marco Genovese Esxence 2025 15th Edition.
The new Moroccan Medjool by Marco Genovese for Electimuss London delivered an exquisite blend of citrus, spices, and dates, finished with a luscious caramel undertone. It felt like a golden sunset in a bustling Moroccan market—vibrant, sweet, and utterly captivating.
The Atmosphere D’emotion collection by Filippo Sorcinelli was a breath of fresh air—literally and metaphorically. Of the trio—Nebbia (fog), Pioggia (rain), and Vento (wind)—it was Vento that resonated with me. Its crisp, airy notes blended mineral accords with a subtle ozonic freshness.
The Different Company Azhi Adara and Cherigan Paris Shanghai le Soir by Maxime Exler of Mane Shanghai (photos from the brands at Esxence)-collage by Michelyn
Sophie Gabriel impressed with her dual offerings. Cherigan Paris Shanghai le Soir was a delicate blend of lychee and fruity amber with creamy undertones, while The Different Company Azhi Adara is an adventurous floral composition with exotic spice nuances.
Thierry Bernard of Parfumeurs Du Monde Esxence 2025 15th Edition
Thierry Bernard of Parfumeurs du Monde highlighted exceptional raw materials (read Ida’s recent reviews of 2024). His Madagascar vanilla blew me away with its richness and complexity. Thierry hinted at a new fruit-forward yet dark fragrance that promises to redefine natural perfumery composed by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.
Day 2: Esxence 2025 15th Edition Stories and Legends
Neela Vermeire and Karl discussing Eshal.
Meeting Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations was a delight. Her Eshal Extrait de Parfum, composed by long time friend and collaborator, Bertrand Duchaufour was one of the most anticipated new perfumes at Esxence (and of 2025). Eshal feels like a luminous love letter to tuberose with an ethereal blend of spices, petals and a gentle woody base—a counterpoint to her dynamic Bombay Bling (Neela wrote her creative director’s article here).
photo by Karl
Parfums MDCI introduced a luxury line of body care and creams in beautiful porcelain jars with gold inlay. The products transforms everyday rituals into moments of pure indulgence, reflecting the brand’s dedication to artisanal excellence. (Claude Marchal, the founder and owner wrote his Creative Director’s article here).
Parfums Dusita Tonka Latte by Pissara Umavijani enveloped me in creamy, nutty warmth. This gourmand perfume captured the comfort of a cozy café, balancing rich tonka with a frothy, sweetened edge.
Courtesy of the brand
A meeting with Francois Henin, founder and the “Ambassador of Niche of Jovoy Paris and Jeroboam, was a pleasure. His vision of perfumery as an adventure shone through in his latest offerings Your Oudhness being a standout (Vanina Muracciole) and is a finalist for the Fragrance Foundation UK Consumer’s Choice award VOTE HERE
Be on the look out for a new perfume for the Jovoy brand “Ha Long Bay”, inspired by Vietnamese Mango and for Jeroboam “Kun Amo” with crisp and juicy pear-Michelyn per Instagram
Day 3: Esxence 2025 15th Edition
Meo Fusciuni at Esxence 2025 15th Edition
In a hall brimming with bright, bold fragrances, Meo Fusciuni Buio stood out as a dark, introspective marvel. His first incense perfume wrapped me in smoky whispers and ancient resins. Meo also teased an upcoming fragrance that bridges Eastern and Western traditions, combining the fresh zest of bergamot with the aromatic sharpness of yuzu.
Meeting Andrea Rubini on Day 3 was like reconnecting with an old friend whose stories always captivate. Rubini Idilios, composed by Cristiano Canali unfolded with layers of rich woods, amber, and sun-soaked fruit, evoking the dreamy landscapes of Tuscany.
Plume Impression Love No Shame
Love No Shame composed by Stephanie Bakouche for Plume Impression offered a sensuous expression of passion. The fragrance opens with the tart allure of red berries, evolving into a decadent heart of chocolate and whipped cream.
Discothèque, led by Hanover Booth and Jessie Willner, alongside Christian Provenzano, highlighted All Night Till First Light, a scent that encapsulated the freedom of sun-soaked dance floors, blending citrusy cocktails with the rhythm of coastal breezes.
Stay Tuned for Part Two: Beyond the Fair
While the exhibition floor at Esxence 2025 15th Edition was a world unto itself, the magic didn’t end there. The real enchantment continued in the evenings, with intimate gatherings, exclusive parties, and unplanned encounters in Milan’s charming corners. In Part Two of my Esxence 2025 15th Edition coverage and best trends, I will share insights from these soirées and dinners.
Karl Topham, Senior Editor.
Disclosure: Karl received samples or bottles; opinions are his own
All photos by Karl unless otherwise stated.
Thanks to the generosity of Astrophil & Stella we have a discovery kit of 13 x 2 ml samples for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you find most interesting based on Karl’s Esxence 2025 15th Edition report, which excite you and where you live. Draw closes 03/3/2025.
There will be more be more reporting in the coming days from our team.
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