Esxence 2025 15th Edition
I have been attending Esxence in Milan for a number of years now and as a seasoned attendee, know exactly what to expect or I thought I did. Seriously it just gets bigger and bigger, and there must be a discernment and triage of ‘wheat from chaff’, what an experience, I still feel as if I am recovering. It truly is an immersion that on that first morning under misty Milan skies feels like a freediver attempting an unheard-of depth with minimal training. It takes a morning or so to acclimatize to this exceptional world within worlds. Mostly for me there are objectives, to encounter my perfume family, laugh and hug together, to have the chance to smell upcoming releases ‘avant premiere’, to meet (to me) unknown brands and sample their offerings and to discover, hopefully along the way, little treasures that simply take my breath away. Often these are small booths cached away, devoid of marketing noise, quietly whispering their overtones of beauty, in my book, exactly what excites me and draws me in.
Esxence 2025 15th Edition Danu and Ermano Picco ÇaFleureBon colleagues
Already in the reports of my colleagues, Ida, Karl and Olya gave you have all the numbers and facts regarding Esxence 2025 the15th Editionso I will not repeat. I wholly agree with Olya’s impression of trends in her report but would also add that over-marketing seems to be getting a foothold in our beautiful world of artistic perfumery, something to be aware of indeed.
As this report is intended as a summary of my discoveries, lots of news to share, so let’s go!
Esxence 2025 15th Edition Stand out Perfumes, (the ones that stopped me in my tracks)
Anthony Lasheras and Rajesh Balkrishnan of Mallo
Mallo, a Spanish brand, collaboration between Perfumers Anthony Lasheras and Rajesh Balkrishnan, all the limited-edition collection from this creative and unique brand left tumbling emotions in their wake. Exceptional raw materials, some highly unique are crafted with sensibility and grace, the perfumes blow you wide open. I fell immediately for ORA, REA and ARA(GON).
Neela Vermeire Creations – Eshal, such a tuberose, crafted by Neela with Bertrand Duchaufour, it is spell binding and opens in so many different facets. A return for Neela, it floats off skin in veils of absolute beauty. I was smitten and adored the ginger and turmeric that just kept appearing in subtle glances.
It is thanks to Agnieszka Lewandowska from Le Frag, a brand that I have always admired greatly that I discovered Mallo. She also gave me a sneak preview of the upcoming perfumes from her new project showcasing a young, relatively unknown perfumer, the project is called Aptuum and their perfumes will be exceptional.
Random colliding’s with Bogue founder and perfumer Antonio Gardoni, he pressed into my hand a sample of a new perfume in progress, incredibly beautiful and deliciously ‘avant garde’ it intrigued this nose.
Husen Baba of Azman, previewed his upcoming release of Nocturnal Immortal by Julien Rasquinet, a superb and surprising weaving of lavender into a composition that is both surprising and addictive.
L’Osmotheque Exhibition and Conference Esxence 15th Edition
Day 1: Esxence 2025 15th Edition
Exhibition of the l’Osmotheque, Conservatoire International des Parfums, based in Versailles was my first port of call as usual, Anne-Cecile Pouant and her team had put together a marvelous voyage through time, to the 1920’s. It was also a pleasure to meet M. Thomas Fontaine, President of the L’Osmotheque. We heard the histories and were able to smell 15 perfumes from the era. A conference later in the fair also enhanced our knowledge of the links forged between fashion and perfume through the last century, ably presented by perfumers Stephanie Bakouche and Marie Urban Le Febvre.
Pissara Umavijani, Parfums Dusita Tonka Latte Esxence 15th Edition
Astrophil and Stella presented Chromodoro by Julien Rasquinet, brightly effervescent and herbal, a distillation of dreams of the future, encapsulating hope and the best of humanity and as Olya mentioned, an incredible upcoming release, ‘Mon Santal’ which is truly exceptional.
Parfums Dusita – Tonka Latte by Pissara Umavijani, I was enamoured with the first drafts of this creation which I had sampled in Cannes and was delighted with its final incarnation. Warm and comforting undertones of Parisian café elegance, a refined gourmand.
Welton London shared an upcoming addition to the Gold Exclusives; Ambra Innamorata by Vincent Ricord, a sublime amber interpretation with such a unique list of components, it’s a rethink on this noble raw material.
It is always a meeting of like minds with Roberto Drago and Daniela Caon of Kaon Distribution, Laboratorio Olfacttivo released a time capsule of a perfume in ‘Underground Vibes’, a voyage into the caverns of all-nighters, the surreal and hypnotic rave culture and scene with all its delirium and vices, plus I was honored to pass a wonderful hour in conversation with Master Perfumer Lucien Ferrero and his beautiful wife, he introduced me to 2 upcoming releases for his Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero brand, I cannot divulge but one is inspired by his garden and other by a little used noble material.
Sarah Baker Perfumes, a must as the Peaches trio, at its heart the lauded Peaches Revenge were now being released as individual perfumes, Roccoco Pie by Chris Maurice my go to. New release Prism Head by perfumer Miguel Matos, fueled by shifts in consciousness, images of altered states in kaleidoscopic hues.
Day was rounded off by a meeting with Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne and fellow CaFleureBon team member, Karl Topham, always a pleasure to work together. We were introduced to the newest addition for this year’s Montabaco Series, Montabaco Aruba which will release on March 8th, a beautiful heart of sandalwood, vibrant and interesting.
Event at the Milan base of my dear friend, Filippo Sorcinelli for the release of four new perfumes in the Atmosphere d’Emotion Collection, these are the Vento (Wind) Collection, crafted with a very talented young Italian perfumer, Lorenzo, whom I had the pleasure to meet at the event, from the collection, 3 took my interest, Ruah – Sea and Earth, Vento Impetuoso – wild and sudden and Brezza Leggera – whispers of silence.
Mabelle Orama
Day 2: Esxence 2025 15th Edition
The chance to meet with talented London Perfumer Mabelle Orama, such a pleasure, a rising star. Her latest Phoenix Flame, deftly woven strands of spices and incense, in her hands a new interpretation.
Nicolai Parfumeur Createur, a new release in the Extrait de Parfum, Crème Ebene, smooth, rich and aromatic with a decadent twist, and my first chance to meet and exchange with founder and Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai, this illustrious and historic family in the world of perfumery deliver time after time, elegant and refined compositions. A beacon of the true Art.
Sophie and Luc at Cherigan showcased Shanghai le Soir, an evocative lychee laid on a bed of iris and violet, stunning combination. For The Different Company, Love is Coming – green and vivacious, Spring in the air and Azhi Ardara – sensuous and sinuous, it is a seducer par excellence.
Frassai and a wonderful discussion with the Perfumer of Ajedrez, Ralf Schwieger. A homage to the grandfather of Natalia Outeda, the founder. Capturing time and that atmosphere of concentration, Ralf has frozen the moment in vintage capture. (read J’s review here)
Fabbrica Della Musa, warmly welcomed by Barbara and Hamid, I explored their three new releases, all Extrait in the Exclusives Collection, ode to places that captured them, all created by Principal Perfumer at Firmenich, Hamid Merati-Kashani. Opera Infernal, Oud Tuareg – Opulent and inspiring and Ile Bourbon – smoky vanilla with a twist, cacao and a fabulous green tinged Cardamom. A new city will soon be appearing too.
With Meo Fusciuni Giuseppe Imprezzabile Esxence
Day 3: Esxence 2025 15th Edition
Thomas de Monaco bought me well up to date with all the developments for his brand, very exciting and introduced me to 3 new perfumes which will be joining his collection in Autumn. To say the least these are innovative and inspiring, with floral inspirations, he also engaged three, young and relatively unknown perfumers, they will be worth waiting for.
Spending time with Jacques Fath and Isabey, it was my pleasure to discover with creative director Rania Naim and perfumer Jean-Christophe Herault, the newly released Musc Couture, residing on skin like a textural pleasure, its sophisticated and discrete, with a fascinating red banana accord, craftmanship to reflect its Couture origins.
Perris Monte Carlos had delighted me in Cannes, October last year with their newest perfume, Encens Sacre. At Esxence I previewed an as yet unreleased perfume coming later this year, it is beautiful, always a pleasure too to see Gianluca Perris, Elizabetta Perris and Alessandria.
Thierry Bernard of Parfumeurs du Monde previewed a new floral with darkly lit aspects, Osmanthus Noir, balanced and tranquil, Olya spoke of it also. I am thrilled as its perfumer is my dear friend Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.
Meo Fusciuni, how I have seen this humble, beautiful person carve his path with beauty and integrity, a full-blown conversation and the chance to try two upcoming releases, one will be a quite different tack for Meo, the other something familiar yet a new impression. Meo Fusciuni now has a new studio and he also imparted some quite incredible news, which is to be kept quiet for now, 2025 will be quite a year for Guiseppe.
Kajal, always a stand out success at the fair, released Ruby, a fruit fueled opulence that lingers in a surprising elegance. It is rich bouquet, comforting in its intimacy and alluring in its wake. I also attended the launch dinner, a red extravaganza, celebrating love in all its forms, My thanks to Moe, Jo and the team.
Plume Impression, Sabine Schaffer (co-founder) and Stephanie Bakouche
Day 4: Esxence 15th Edition
Braving the public day was less fraught than I thought as I had appointments with certain booths.
Naso di Raza – Frederica and Agapito are on the verge of launching Graffio, which I first sampled at Pitti Fragranze last year, it is very good and one to watch out for.
Plume Impression, Sabine and Gabriel, launched Love no Shame by perfumer Stephanie Bakouche, Sensaba, as an ardent follower of her work, this was not to be missed. Glorious profusion of decadent desire, everything you could possibly want in a bottled seduction, cherries chocolate and creamy, lingering aftermath. I also had a sneak preview of a perfume to be released this year which grew out of a conversation I had with Sabine and Gabriel in 2023 and our shared passion for a certain country. Watch this space!!!
Rubini, great to see Andrea again and his new wife. Hyperion, wonderful to smell its final version, a wildly experimental take on the forces at work in the vastness of space and Idilios, the newest release, a profound change for Rubini, a voyage of light, expansion, tender and with billowing gestures. Both by perfumer Cristiano Canali
Anatole Le Breton debuted 2 new additions to his Artifacts Collection, Duende and Rubaiyat both exceptionally good as is to be expected, these will be shown as part of Paris Perfume Week, more on them later.
Sasva, the superb Indian based brand founded by friend Sriman astounded with their new perfume, I had had a sneak preview in Cannes and it was delicious then. Saaqui is a unique composition, due for release next month, featured a red wine accord blended seamlessly with spices and gourmand notes. Smooth and enticing.
Antonio Alessandria at an offsite event unveiled Pluvia Sacra, again this was a perfume I had been introduced to at Pitti Fragranze 2024. Earthy, saturated, verdancy, it is a masterpiece of modern perfumery with a backstory that is fascinating.
Vallense and Founder William Borrell
New Discoveries
Vallense A London Brand founded by the ebullient William and crafted by perfumer Pia Long, there is a floating laboratory on a barge apparently a must visit, the collection was interesting and warrants further attention.
Elise Walraven from One Way Bridge Parfums, a New Zealand brand that is getting noticed along with The Virtue, another New Zealand brand. Elise was a delight to meet and her eclectic collection of Kiwi inspired perfumes was wonderful to explore, she left me with The Typographers Daughter, a quirky and delicious take on Feijoa, a sub-tropical fruit which had memories of New Zealand flooding back.
L’Arc which I am yet to explore but my conversation with Fadid Al Haddad signaled we were on very common ground as regards perfumery.
Mihan Aromatics from Australia, very interesting, more to come.
My thanks also to Silvio Levi and Equipe International for their passion and hard work.
Danu Seith-Fyr – Contributor
I received samples at Esxence, all opinions are my own words; all photos via Danu
Please enjoy our reports of Esxence 2025 here, Ida, Olya, Karl 1 and Karl Part 2
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