Michelyn Camen, MICA Convention Center and Esxence 2024 collage by Michelyn photos by Amber Jobin©
Although this was not my first time at Esxence, ÇaFleureBon (has been a media partner since 2010 and I attended 2015–2019), Esxence 2024, the 14th edition marks my return. The exhibition has greatly expanded and according to the organizers, there were over 350 brands at the Milan Convention Center (MiCo) and 12, 000 participants, so kudos and mille grazie to the team at Equipe International, who made me feel so welcome.
Esxence 2024 Masque Milano (Michelyn and Carlotta) always remembering Alessandro Brun©
I took the red eye flight out of JFK NYC and my travel companion this year was my friend and Award-winning perfumer Amber Jobin. The theme of Esxence 2024 was metamorphosis and what was a relatively small show in 2010 blossomed into a brilliant showcase for global artistic perfumery.
Masque Milano Ribot (Antoine Lie) and Alcove (Karine Chevallier) at Esxence 2024©
On arrival, I sought out Masque Milano and Milano Fragranze Booth, which was how I began each of the three days (skipped public day 3/9) I spent at Esxence 2024. Impressed by Alcove from the Emerald Collection, created by Karine Chevallier which interprets the story of the Sasanian king, Bahram Gur (ruled AD 420–38) and the Sandalwood Pavilion.
Francois Henin of Jovoy Paris and Jeroboam with Michelyn photos by Amber
Map in hand (I still got lost) but found (and danced a tango) with Francois Henin of Jovoy Paris, (more later). Then over to Etat Libre D’Orange, celebrating 18 years of subversive scents,to give a big hug to Etienne de Swardt.
Marc-Antoine Corticchiato with Michelyn at the Parfum d’Empire booth debuting Un Bel Amour D’été collage by Michelyn photos by Amber and the brand
What a thrill to meet independent perfumer extraordinaire Marc-Antoine-Corticchiato of Parfums d’ Empire who I interviewed back in 2012. His new fragrance Un Bel Amour D’été was instant love.
My time on the first day was mainly spent with brands, perfumers, and creative directors I have developed long standing relationships because for me it has always been about the people as much as the perfume.
Busiest Booths at Esxence 2024
Michelyn with Moe Khalef-founder of the new perfume Kajal Äican at Esxence 2023
Kajal
Kajal Äican: Thank you, Moe, for welcoming me to your stand, (I apologize that I could not partake of the Arabic coffee with cardamom, you so kindly offered, as I have an adverse reaction to caffeine). Äican, pronounced “I can,” includes positive affirmation cards in the box… I can. Under my breath, I kept repeating “I CAN walk this show, without falling over.”
Filippo Sorcinelli Memento Extrait De Sacristie photo by Amber
Filippo Sorcinelli
Thanks to Filippo Sorcinelli I was able to test all eight Memento Extrait De Sacristie, each inspired by the drawers of the sacristies of famous churches. Memento is the word that the priest says before celebrating the rite of mass. Each smelled liked an ancient treasure chest, and as I buried my nose in each perfume, it was akin to a spiritual journey within. My favorite is DOMM, for the Milanese Cathedral, with its pronounced chocolate, styrax and cedar notes.
Art meets Art at Esxence 2024 photo by Amber
New to me was Art Meets Art, which J introduced to us in his reviews of Lilac Wine, Sexual Healing and later with Nicoleta’s Besa Me Mucho. Tanguy Le Baud is the creative director and works with world renowned perfumers (and a music lover). My favorite is the upcoming Like A Virgin Unplugged, with an orange blossom note that felt” like being touched for the very first time.” This is a small brand that I hope gets more recognition.
Two new additions the Scentologia collection at Esxence 2024 photo by Amber
Scentologia: Karl recently wrote about the new Scentologia Immortal Potion, so I made it my point to visit their booth to check out the two new additions to the Alkeme collection: Obsidian and Dark Opulence. Despite its name, I fell for Obsidian, with its rich immortelle embracing leather and vanilla. It felt like a hug.
Themes and Trends
Solar Florals
Florals seemed lit from within sensual and solar. An example is Un Bel Amour D’été the perfume blooms on skin in a searingly sensuous evocation of an unforgettable, beautiful summer love.
Luminous Oud– Oud showed a different glowing face in perfumes such as Gritti Mango Oud, and Olfactive Studio Sister Oud
Cherchez La Femme
Masque Milano were trail blazers when they introduced Le donne di Masque in 2020 fragrances composed by women perfumers. New are Diana (Vanina Murraciole), Catherine (Caroline Dumar) and Vaiana by (McKenzie Reilly).
Olfactive Studio Stand at Esxence 2024 collage by Michelyn photos by Amber©
Olfactive Studio’s Creative Director Celine Verleure dedicated three fragrances, all created by Cecile Zarokian. Sister Oud, with its notes of black currant, cinnamon, rose and Oud Assam glows.
M. Micallef debuted Secrets of Love Ô Feminin-a gorgeous vanilla/orange blossom
Spirituality and Mysticism
Astrophil & Stella booth and In Extremis photo by Amber
Astrophil & Stella In Extremis (Meo Fusciuni): I first learned of Astrophil & Stella through Karl Topham’s review of Madame M, composed by one of my favorite perfumers Nathalie Feisthauer. When I learned Meo Fusciuni was the nose, and that Caravaggio was the muse, my heart quickened. I was not disappointed; Astrophil & Stella In Extremis is the essence of the revolutionary painter made liquid. There is an intense realism, perhaps a bit unsettling at first that draws you in. Dark and light, a study in defiant chiaroscuro. My skin pulls magnolia and incense. Possibly the most exceptional perfume I smelt at Esxence 2024.
Photo Act of Faith Volume III courtesy of Malbrum
I met Kristian Hilberg of Malbrum in 2015 and the brand is now part of Milano Fragranze. At Esxence 2024 debuted three fragrances composed by Cristiano Canali (now of MANE) that are studies in simplexity, entitled “Acts of Faith”. Of the three, Godspeed, Here comes the Sun and Paradiso Super, a solar musky floral shaded by tonka, the latter was my favorite.
Spiritum Fragrances Jonathan Dufour, Michelyn and the Spiritum Booth by Amber
Spiritum Fragrances: Founder Jonathan Dufour realized the importance of the connection between body, soul, spirit… and perfume while on a retreat in Peru. Each fragrance corresponds to a life path and to numerology. After I whispered my birthdate into his ear, one of the new perfumes, 11 “Physic Vibes” was my lifepath. It is fruity and floral in the most mysterious way. But I knew that.
New Interpretations of Carnations and Violet
Hiram Green Philtre: Although I didn’t have the opportunity to see him, award winning natural perfumer Hiram Green’s modern day love potion is the most photorealistic carnation fragrance I have smelled. Is it better than Caron Belladogia? For me yes, but I am under its spell.
Michelyn with Meo Fusciuni’s Giuseppe Imprezzabile and his wife Federica photo Amber
Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere: For some perfumistas violet fragrances have a reputation for being outdated, a nod to another era. Through Meo Fusciuni’s alchemy he has kept a hint of the nostalgia of vintage violet perfumes then shrouded Violet Nere in dark forest mists Viole Nere was ahead of the “violet curve.”
Collage of Clara Feder, Michel Gutsatz and Violette Kew photos by Amber
Le Jardin Retrouvé Violette Kew (Maxence Moutte): Luminous, solar and violet, aren’t three words you might associate with each other. Like all Le Jardin Retrouvé perfumes it is named for a garden- in this case Kew Gardens (London, not Queens) Bursting into the 21st century, it is joyful, and uplifting, with gourmand nuance. Violette Kew is for fragrance lovers-men and women (like me) who do not think they love violet. It shimmers on my skin. This is no shy violet.
The bonus is that ÇaFleureBon was one of the first to review Le Jardin Retrouve and during Esxence 2024 I had the pleasure of dining with Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz.
To The Sea
Francesca Bianchi photo by Michelyn
Francesca Bianchi’s new The Mariner’s Rhyme and Parfum Dusita’s Pelagos
The Metaverse
Agarthi Perfumes
Agarthi was the best concept that I saw at Esxence 2024. We know Middle Earth from Tolkien, but imagine another world at the earth’s core. CEO Barbara Loddo conceived of this 20 years ago, but it was only a year or so ago that she brought the four perfumes to market and is the first collection that was launched in the metaverse. Hidden Shores (Cecile Matton), Burning Core(Mathieu Nardin), Floating Lands (Serge Majouilllier) and Waterway Spells (Alex Lee). Burning Core with its solar charred amber was my personal favorite. The ombree flacons are stunning.
Red Burning Night photo by Amber
The Different Company Red Burning Night: Luc and Sophie Gabriel of Cherigan and The Different Co. took a private Suite at NH Lifestyle where he introduced the April launch of Red Burning Night, created by Brazilian perfumer Marion Costero. It is quite possibly the most sensual jasmine I have smelt in quite some time, as if it is blooming under a canopy of stars. My nose to my wrist, I quoted to Luc this passage from Molly Bloom’s soliloquy in James Joyce’s Ulysses:
“I was a Flower of the mountain yes when I put the rose in my hair like the Andalusian girls used or shall I wear a red yes and how he kissed me under the Moorish wall and I thought well as well him as another and then I asked him with my eyes to ask again yes and then he asked me would I yes to say yes my mountain flower and first I put my arms around him yes and drew him down to me so he could feel my breasts all perfume yes and his heart was going like mad and yes I said yes I will Yes.”
.
Michelyn with Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora Fragrances at Esxence 2024 photo by Amber
Scoops and Spoilers
Jovoy Paris will be introducing Aqua Memorabilis, a citrus woody perfume composed by Vanina Mucciocle.
Etat Libre D’Orange is launching The Story of Your Life by Jerome di Marino later this year.
Grandiflora will be launching a new perfume in 2026. Hint: a leaf modification
Gallivant is taking us to Nida, Lithuania
Boujee Bougies photos including Infleurno by Pia Long at Esxence 2024
My Personal Favorite Fragrances from Esxence 2024 (in no particular order)
Le Jardin Retrouvé Violette Kew (Maxence Moutte)
Hiram Green Philtre (I didn’t make it to Hiram’s booth, but I have a sample and it is stunning).
Jacques Fath Encens Copal (Jean-Christophe Herault)-Salt and Olibanum, sacred and joyous with nutty nuances.
Boujee Bougies Infleurno (best name, as well): Perfumer Pia Long and Creative Director Nick Gilbert bottle the myth of Persephone, the goddess of spring and Queen of the Underworld as she waves goodbye to Hades in this charred fruity chypre.
Astral & Stella In Extremis
Creative Director Veronique LE BEHAN holding Atelier Materi Cedre Figalia photo by Amber
Atelier Materi Cedre Figalia: perfumer Celine Pedriel uses three types of cedars in a fig fragrance that has the lactonic sweetness of the fruit and the leafy freshness of the foliage.
The Different Company Red Burning Night
Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Thanks to the generosity of Astrophil & Stella we have a discovery kit of 13 x 2 ml samples for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you find most interesting based on Michelyn’s Esxence 2024 report and where you live. Draw closes 3/19/2024
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