Detail from Roses of Heliogabalus by Lawrence Alma-Tadema Tutti Art
“I’d rather have roses on my table than diamonds on my neck.” ~ Emma Goldman. So would I, Ms. Goldman, but roses upon my neck would pleasure me no end. I’d wager that artisanal natural perfumer Hiram Green’s latest release, Lustre would have satisfied us both with his One Perfect Rose – for that is the nature of this luminous sun-basked soliflore. We smelt many roses, beautifully adorned and not – at Esxence 2019, but Hiram Green Lustre was an undeniable standout. My beloved husband is particularly ‘rose perfume-averse’, associating them unfavorably with his English early childhood – but he too has been smitten. That tells a story, right there…
Photo of Rose Centifolia by Brandusa Paulescu
Hiram Green has proven time and again that exquisitely composed botanical fragrances may possess longevity and intricacy rivaling any others in the playing field. His creations loom like scented spectres with sillage: nothing timid or self-apologetic about them. Lustre fosters a form of aromatic ecstatic experience I liken to that which emanated from the body of St. Thérèse de Lisieux (The Little Flower) and Padre Pio’s stigmata immediately upon their demise, lingering for days afterward; the blessed Mother Mary was also known as Our Lady of Roses. In Islam, the Prophet Mohammed and divine beauty are associated with the rose – the Flower of Heaven. Roses symbolize passion and sanctity in equal parts, which may account for their widespread appeal (to those among us who venerate them. Not everyone loves roses.).
Detail from Roses of Heliogabalus by Lawrence Alma-Tadema
Hiram Green Lustre glows with citrus at the outset, those mouthwatering low molecular weight molecules which impart their tart juiciness as fitting counterpart to Bulgarian rose with its notes of earthy green, peppery, citrus and voluptuously sweet elegance. We experience an immediate authenticity – dewy, delicate yet tenacious, garden-fresh. At some point, precious orris enters the scene but does so seamlessly, providing a subtly woody effect and contributing to the perfume’s longevity without creating the anticipated ‘lipstick’ accord. We still register rose. Olibanum (boswellia serrata), also known as frankincense – is sweetly woody, balsamic with citrus notes and pepperiness, a complex resin which is able to modulate sweetness and prolong the perfume’s staying power. It isn’t until a few hours into Lustre’s drydown that the filaments of olibanum assert a bit more prominence; that said, I hope you can envision how these high quality materials dovetail so compellingly. The rose soliflore theme is never once violated, a tribute to the perfumer’s considerable skill. In addition to all the other gifts Hiram Green has so open-heartedly offered, he proffers us the perfect rose.
Notes: Bulgarian rose, citrus, orris, olibanum
Sample kindly provided by perfumer Hiram Green – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Photo of Hiram Green and his Golden Pear
We at ÇaFleureBon would like to congratulate Hiram Green upon his recent Art and Olfaction Award in the artisanal category for his perfume Hyde! Well done!
Hiram Green Lustre 50ml by Ann
Thanks to the ongoing generosity of Ann Onusko of Indigo Perfumery, we are offering one 50 ml bottle of Hiram Green Lustre to one registered reader in the U.S. To be eligible you must be a registered reader. Please leave a comment what you liked about Ida’s post, if you are an admirer of one perfect rose, and your favorite Hiram Green fragrance. Draw ends May 24, 2019
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.