Simone Andreoli of Diario Olfattivo with the Italian Heritage Collection at Esxence 2019 photo by Ida©
Youthful Italian nose Simone Andreoli possesses wanderlust known to many an artistic soul as evidenced by his previous perfumes. He appears to be besotted with the external landscape in his scent diary, aka Diario Olfattivo – and no topic is off-limits, be it lust on the beach in Rio (Don’t ask me permission), heady Dubai nights (Camouflage), British privilege and elegance (Business Man), festival carousing on the beach amidst the rich and famous (Malibù – Party in the bay), etc. Other fragrances murmur of personal epiphany in exotic climes: Moorea, Smoke of G-d. At Esxence 2019, he presented his latest work, a trio of perfumes dedicated to his Italian heritage – and both Michelyn and I found them delicious and uplifting, a pleasure to wear and lovingly composed. The Diario Olfattivo Italian Heritage Collection succeeds because of its unfettered honesty, fêting simple pleasures close to the perfumer’s heart. We require no elaborate storyline when the immediacy of brilliant Amalfi lemon is at hand, the sweet sappiness of fresh Sardinian fig descends from its heavy branch, or elegantly almond-inflected dolce wafts from a Siracusan pasticceria. One comprehends national pride and applauds with gusto.
Diario Olfattivo Italian Heritage Collection Zest Di Sorrento: in the view of citrus enthusiasts, Sorrentino/Amalfi Coast lemons are among the world’s finest. Surely the sublime vista only augments that flavor/aroma, exploding with sunshine encapsulated as citrus. Very little ornamentation is needed if you employ the best: lovely lemon rind and blossom (I love lemon blossom!), a dose of neroli and a smattering of wood as anchor. My sole reservation lies with the woody note, which takes a while to calm itself and feels a bit scratchy at the outset. Over time that roughness lessens and what remains is a very pleasurable profumo agrumato. Notes: lemon, lemon blossom, neroli, woods
Diario Olfattivo Italian Heritage Collection Fico Nero di Sardegna: oh, those ripe black figs which conceal divinely rosy flesh – pulpy, decadent, the juice which drips down your chin so willfully. Those multi-lobed fig leaves! Sardinia, no less – one of those dream destinations I long to explore – untamed landscapes always have my heart, it seems. Fig is a truth-teller and this one, in particular, will make fig lovers happy indeed. Pulpy, fleshy with a whisper of milkiness and the faintly bitter edge of green leaf – it’s all here. Fico Nero is less sweet than L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier and less timid than Diptyque Philosykos. Notes: fig pulp, coconut milk, fig leaf
Diario Olfattivo Italian Heritage Collection Mandorla Di Noto: if you had told me that this would be my favorite, I wouldn’t have believed you. I enjoy fine gourmand perfumes as much as the next person – but if they cloy and cling, whinging all the way, hanging onto the hem of my garment – I want out. Life is just too brief. Color me all the more surprised when this airy, poufy, delectable almond cloud graced my wrist: no lumpy nutty notes, graceless tooth-achingly sugar bomb, heavy heliotrope in tow. I’ve not had the pleasure of Sicilian pastry this light, but you can bet I’ll be on the lookout for it in future. Noto, here I come. Notes: almond, icing sugar, amber, vanilla
Samples were kindly provided by Simone Andreoli at Esxence – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
(photographs courtesy of Diario Olfattivo) and Ida)
Thanks to the generosity of Simone Andreoli of Diario Olfattivo we have one sample set of all three fragrances for one registered reader (register here if you have not already done so) anywhere in the world. Please leave a comment relaying what appeals to you about Diario Olfattivo Italian Heritage Collection, which one (s) you may like based on Ida’s review, and where you live. Draw closes 6/13/2019
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