Esxence 2019: Aether Suprae and Aextra Review + Chemical Romance Draw

 

Aether Suprae and Aextra review

courtesy of Aether©

Perfume aficionados often lament over the ever-changing industry standards, which restrict or prohibit certain ingredients that perfumers have used in the past. Changing standards can force reformulations, causing significant alteration to existing perfumes. But there is always a positive side to change and what we don’t often recognise is how changing regulations drive innovation as perfumers are challenged to find new forms of expression and fragrance chemists work to invent new molecules that expand the perfumer’s repertoire of ingredients.

Nicolas Chabot

Nicolas Chabot©

Aether is a perfume house that relishes in this perpetually evolving landscape of fragrance chemistry, describing itself as “a tribute by its creators to synthetic molecules and the frenzy of chemistry.” The house’s founder and creative director, Nicolas Chabot, cut his teeth in the perfume industry working with brands such as Estee Lauder, Givenchy and Christian Dior. In 2015 he revived the sleeping beauty Le Galion, a Parisian perfume house that was on the cusp of extinction with history dating back to the 1930s. A year later he created Aether, an entirely new house to challenge the norms of French perfumery, which ironically, Le Galion played a hand in establishing many decades ago.

Aether’s name comes from classical Latin. By the late 19th century, chemists were producing various ethers from distilled acids and alcohol. Some of the results were highly addictive or used in medicine as antispasmodics, antiseptics and anaesthetics. This idea of ether is referenced in all Aether fragrances. Nicolas Chabot describes it being part of a signature, which his perfumers create using two molecules, ethyl linalyl acetate and ethyl acetate. This short-lived flash of ether segues to the fragrances’ main themes, synthetic molecules that are the underlying foundation of modern perfumery. At this year’s Esxence perfumery event in Milan, Nicolas Chabot presented two new fragrances, which complete his Supraem collection, now a total of six. The Supraem fragrances focus in on one ingredient compared to the original line, which Nicolas describes as “a more complex assemblage.” The two new fragrances are Aextra and Aether Suprae.

 Aextra review

Courtesy of Guggenheim.org Picasso Black and White

Aextra is “an ethereal love potion enhancing the smell of sweaty, lusty bodies.” Nicolas worked with one of his regular collaborators, perfumer Anne-Sophie Behaghel to create the new fragrance. The formula has a remarkable 94% of Bacdanol, a trademarked molecule from International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). Bacdanol has a smooth, creamy sandalwood scent with cosmetic facets. It’s extremely diffusive and at this percentage, Bacdanol creates a supernova effect in the perfume’s sillage. It’s astounding how long this fragrance lasts.

Aether Aextra review

photo by Clayton©

Aextra also has a small amount of Evernyl, a synthetic replacement for natural oakmoss. Nicolas told me that because Bacdanol and Evernyl are both deep, powerful, long lasting notes, the signature ether accord used in all of his fragrances serves a dual purpose because it adds a fresh, radiant quality that lifts the heavier notes up and out of the fragrance.

 Best Aether perfumes

Pablo Picasso’s ‘Le Baiser’ (1969) © Succession Picasso/ProLitteris, Zurich

While Aextra is about radiance and light, Aether Suprae plays in the shadows. It still has a transparent and ethereal quality but it is darker, more mysterious compared to Aextra. For  Suprae, Nicolas worked once more with Givaudan perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. The fragrance was built almost entirely from Givaudan captives, molecules so precious, they are not available to perfumers outside Givaudan’s laboratories where they were created.  Suprae is themed around Akigalawood, a biotechnology ingredient Givaudan created for its own exclusive use. Akigalawood is produced from Indonesian patchouli that has been altered by an enzymatic bath.

Aether Suprae review Rodrigo Flores Roux

photo by Clayton©

The enzymes consume some of the material. What is left is a scent that is still recognisable as patchouli, but it has a dry, robust woody character that is beautifully complex and sophisticated. Paired with Georgywood, a transparent woody note comparable to Iso E Super and a trio of Givaudan musks, Sylkolide, Serenolide and Cosmone, Suprae almost floats on skin. Finally there is a hint of Belambre that gives the fragrance a modern ambery glow.

Both Aextra and Aether Suprae are entirely genderless and call to be worn on skin to reveal their full beauty. Despite the current trend towards natural cosmetics and fragrances, they are unashamedly synthetic. The approach here is not to mimic nature but to reframe our definition of nature and how we see beauty in the world around us. A light and shadow chiaroscuro pairing, Aextra and Aether Suprae complement each other by contrast and continue Aether’s work of creating fragrances that don’t adhere to traditional perfume structures.

Clayton Ilolahia, Guest Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen

Thanks to Nicolas Chabot we have a draw for a registered reader in the EU only for your choice of either 75 ml bottle of Aether Suprae or Aextra . Please leave a comment with what you thought of Clayton’s reviews, where you live and which you would like to win. Draw closes 7/26/2019

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon  @clayton_wmssl @aetherparfums

Michelyn adds: Aether Suprae was one of her favorites from Esxence 2019

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

 

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29 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    I am more intrigued by Suprae that was made by Rodrigo Flores-Roux with some molecules not available to anyone outside Givaudan. Suprae is darker than Aextra, too. I am in US. My choice is Suprae.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I appreciated Clayton’s framing of restrictions as leading to creativity with synthetics. I’m equally fascinated with vintage treasures as I am with intriguing and innovative modern scents. I love the description Aextra and the two diffusive bases it works with. If I were to win, I’d love a bottle of that. Thanks so much for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • What I liked about the reviews is that they illustrate that synthetic materials can actually be great. It’s often a pejorative term, but that not need be so. Synthetics are often powerful and can smell really wonderful in the hands of a good nose.
    If I win, I’d like to get the Aextra.
    Im in IL in the US. Thanks for the draw

  • Outstanding review of two fragrances by Clayton. I love the description of Aether Suprae as my pick as its a darker, more mysterious yet is still transparent and ethereal. I wish for a night out smelling sexy as it gets. I have to sample these 2 scents because I seriously love Molecule 01! I live in CA, USA. Thanks for the draw!

  • I appreciate the innovative approach to using synthetic molecules. I am unfamiliar with some of them so I will have to study more. My choice is Suprae with its more mysterious and ethereal quality. I live in the USA.

  • I actually don’t understand some peoples rants against synthetic ingredient. If the composition is done right the perfume lives and works! That’s all I need. – Thank you for those useful description of those molecules, they don’t speak for themselves like natural notes’ names. I’d love to win SUPRÆ to Germany which sounds intriguing to me with that patchouli driven modernism, especially from the hand of Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Thanks for the draw!

  • I got interested in these right when i got to the “an ethereal love potion enhancing the smell of sweaty, lusty bodies” part, lol. Actually both Aextra and Aether sound very interesting and I admire the bravery in going for full synthetic compositions. I have nothing against that, even if it’s not in the trend. I also, as a rock music lover, was triggered by the review title (My?) Chemical Romance. Would love to win Aextra, even though the choice was a tough one. Thanks for the draw! From Romania, EU.

  • James Daly says:

    Fantastic piece. Akigalawood keeps popping up from Givaudan perfumers like Andrier and Flores-Roux, fascinating to here about the enzymatic process used to create it.

  • Change is a constant, so we should all innovate more. Good to see that the perfume industry also innovates and that we can welcome new perfumes like Aextra and Aether Suprae. Great review!! Living in the Netherlands

  • Starlit12 says:

    Aether Suprae sounds delicious, with its patchouli, wood and Amber. They both seem interesting, but I would choose Aether Suprae. I am from Romania.

  • I learned so much about these different ingredients and realize now I would like to know more. I like a lot this review especially Aextra.
    I live in Spain

  • Sometimes I like the idea of a fragrance concentrating on one main note. I would like to win the Aextra please. US

  • This review was very interesting, I enjoy reading about very chemical ways of producing a perfume and how they end up smelling like natural elements still. The one that appeals more is Aether suprae, so I would like to win that one. I am from Finland, EU.

  • Mihaela Ungureanu says:

    I like the description of Aextra, I’m very curious abot the sillage and, if I am to win, I definitely want a bottle of this! Greetings from Romania, EU!

  • This is a first for me. Some synthetics give out powerful scents. Might go with Suprae because it is mysterious but both sound good. Thanks, US

  • Great article, Clayton. I am a great admirer of what synthetics can add to perfumery and the vast palette it gives perfumers. Aether’s concepts are so intriguing. I am anxious to try them. Thanks for reviewing them.

    (in US, not entering draw)

  • NiceVULady says:

    I enjoyed Clayton’s review very much, although the synthetics described confuse just a little. I would be more interested in Suprae simply for the ambery feel to it. Thanks for the review and for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • The scents from this brand seem full of fragrance breakthroughs. Its innovation naturally evokes curiosity, and my curiosity lies in Suprae, having been co-created with the superstar Rodrigo Flores-Roux. (Commenting from USA)

  • Beauty is not only about what nature offers, but also about its infinite source of inspiration for human creation.The beauty of scent is about how a single or a melange of odorous molecules ignite our emotions. This organic couple ‘smell- emotion’ is so mysterious yet alchemic, that using too many words trying to describe it, would only spoil its real magic, therefore I think Clayton’s descriptions are well balanced.
    Both reviews stretch one’s imagination. What I liked most is how the olfactory contrast between the two is shaped to create almost a physical perception of light and shadow.
    I would love to try Aether Suprae because I think that mixing musk molecules with the enzyme modified patchouli, Amber and the wood-note just bursts into a surprising and sophisticated assemblage. Moreover, I just love Rodrigo Flores Roux’s creations!
    From Vienna, Austria.

  • IvanVelikov says:

    Never heard of Aether fragrances before, but I like how unique their fragrances are made , like Clayton IIolahia said “unashamedly synthetic” . Strong performance is a big plus for me , both sonds good , but I’m leaning towards Suprae .
    Thanks
    In France from 26th of July, until 21st of August for a childhood friend wedding, and my long waited vacation

  • I never heard about Aether until now, but I love it already! Suprae sounds amazing, and I think I will buy a 10 ml nomad spray of Rose Alcane, I`m very intrigued about it. Regards from Romania (EU).

  • I am one of those who lament over the ever-changing industry standards, which restrict or prohibit certain ingredients that perfumers have used in the past.
    But I admit that changing standards could have a positive side to change and it’s obvious how this situation drive innovation because perfumers are challenged to find new solutions and fragrance chemists work to invent new ingredients.
    I am curious how Aether Suprae has Rodrigo Flores-Roux’ mark.
    I live in EU.

  • Personally i’m more into final result smell , and not much into natural perfumery.Yes it’s nice to be able to distinguish for example real bergamote , but we all know natural perfumery almost equals bad performance . My skin is really dry , and sinks in most perfumes . I can’t re-apply 3-4 times per day $/€/£300 niche fragrance. Performance is really important to me.
    I’ll go with Michelyn choice Suprae .
    Thanks
    Scotland (EU)

  • This is such an interesting concept using enzymes to create the fragrance note. I would definitely choose Aether Suprae.
    I live in the US.

  • Rodrigo Flores-Roux is one of my favorite perfumers , i’m wearing Jasmin Rouge Tom Ford at the moment. The idea of twisted patchouli , Iso E Super , musks and hints of amber is intriguing .
    Thank you Clayton for the review
    Germany (EU)

  • WaltherP99 says:

    The concept of Aether is like a slap in the face for the fragrance purists , and i’m loving it BIG time 🙂
    I do remember Sebastian had a Aether video on his channel a few months back.
    Both fragrances reviewed by Claiton sound equally good to me.
    Suprae is the one for me , just because it’s made by Rodrigo Flores-Roux.
    Thanks to both Nicolas Chabot and Claiton.
    London UK/EU

  • My choice is Suprae.
    I live in USA.
    I thought Clayton’s review was insightful especially about synthetic materials which can be great.

  • I try to divide perfums not into natural and synthetic but rather into good and bad. The ones I like and those I do not like. And I guess Aether Suprae is the one I could like. Would love to win it. I live in the EU.