The fourth version of Elements Showcase the curated trade show for all thing fragrant just wrapped up after two days August 20-21, 2012 in NYC. As the only real US show of its kind, organizers Frederick Bouchardy, Ulrich Lang, and Jeffrey Lawson continue to provide an American alternative to the European trade shows with a New York City attitude.

The stars of this edition were raw ingredients. There were two separate workshops sponsored by Robertet celebrating 160 years of the rose. The centerpiece of both workshops was the conversations the invited perfumers had about using a new Robertet rose ingredient called Rose Petals Natural. Over the two workshops two Robertet perfumers, Olivia Jan and Jerome Epinette were joined by three indie perfumers Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co. and Anne McClain of MCMC Fragrances. This was a fascinating study in how five perfumers choose to use a raw ingredient. Mr. Epinette knew he wanted to create a fragrance around it and the result is Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme. Ms. Ethier told how it was the necessary final piece to her Rose Boheme as it added a rose which would pop against the dark patchouli base. All five perfumers exemplified how a great ingredient can be used to enhance their personal creativity.

The raw materials theme continued in a workshop, sponsored by Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine, on Tuesday where a panel passed out a number of raw ingredients for the audience to try. Perfumers Ralf Schwieger of Mane, Yosh Han of Yosh Olfactory Sense, and Kevin Verspoor of Drom along with Gillian Bleimann of Berje and Pierre Hellivan of Vigon International passed around many raw materials for the audience to experience. My take-home lesson is I am never going to open a bottle of Valerian root extract in my house. It turned our corner of the venue floor into a smelly gym locker. This was the rawest of the ingredients I would encounter this weekend.

Both of the Robertet workshops and the Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine panel showed that despite all of the regulatory pressures facing the perfume industry the artists who make perfume have imaginations which outpace even the most stringent regulator.

What the Elements Showcase is really about is what these talented people do with these ingredients. Here is the list of my Best of Show awards.

Best of Show: Celine Verleure brought all four of her Olfactive Studio fragrances and this was the first time for almost all of the US based perfume lovers to try these. As you know in my reviews I was already a big fan but I think Mme Verleure made some new ones. I just hope she strikes a deal for a US source of these amazing perfumes in time for the fifth one to be carried here. The perfumer’s initials for number five; OC.

Favorite New Fragrance (to me): Eight & Bob is a fragrance with a story so cool that if it isn’t true it oughta be. The key ingredient is a plant called Andrea which is harvested in the Andes in December and January. I’m not so sure about this but what I do know is Eight & Bob is an incredibly elegant men’s fragrance that completely surprised and delighted me.

Best Upcoming Fragrance (tie): There were three new fragrances that are coming out over the next couple of months and all three of them have me awaiting their arrival: Frapin Speakeasy, Bond No. 9 Manhattan, and Andrea Maack Coal. Each of these feel like they are going to be standout additions to their respective lines.

Delayed Gratification Award: If there is one line I have been waiting to finally have in my hands it is the expanded Agonist line. The original two entries, Liquid Crystal and The Infidels along with four new ones; Black Amber, Onyx Pearl, Vanilla Marble, and Arctic Jade. Ever since trying these over a year ago I have been waiting for these to come out and I am not disappointed.

Best News: The Fragrance Foundation that Independent perfumers can now join for $500/year. The Fragrance Foundation also announced that there will be a second edition of the Indie FiFi Award which will be presented at the January 2013 Elements Showcase. Forms for both of these exciting new developments are available on The Fragrance Foundation website.

Most Unique New Fragrance Maker: Alli Darling and Obi Kaufmann of Juniper Ridge travel around in a white Econoline van with a repurposed whiskey still wild harvesting plants and distilling them down as they harvest. This kind of DIY perfumery is fascinating to experience there is an authentic raw quality to their fragrances and it can be a little off putting but if it clicks with you it is probably because you can smell the authenticity.

Favorite Line from the Panels: When asked for a story about rose Jerome Epinette told of standing next to a rose farmer and asking him how he knew they were ready to harvest. The farmer told him, by taste, he would bite into a petal and when it had the right amount of bitterness them it was time to harvest.

Shouldn’t You Have A Booth Award: Hilde Soliani was busy exploring and sharing her fragrances with those of us who have loved them in the past. She sprayed me with one of her upcoming releases that was meant to smell of rose and plastic. It was amazing and I can’t wait for her to release it.

Best Cupcakes: The perfume inspired cupcakes from Stella’s Sweet Shoppe in conjunction with the cupcake inspired perfume line by Gerald Ghislain called Alice & Peter. There was a rose water chocolate cupcake that was divine.

Last but not least the family of fellow writers who I also got to spend time with as even though I only see them in person once or twice a year we all share a passion for perfume which makes us seem like old friends.

Thanks to the generosity of Celine Verleure we have eight full sample sets of all four Olfactive Studio fragrances. To be eligible just leave a comment about the most interesting thing you read in this wrap-up. We will draw eight winners on August 26, 2012.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

All photos courtesy of Carlos J Powell from his Facebook page.