Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH perfumes as a Warrior Queen
When iconoclastic award-winning artisanal perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz composed DSH Perfumes Warrior Queen X ÇaFleureBon for our 12th anniversary in collaboration with Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen, a unique aromatic jewel came into being. I was eager to experience it – and delighted when I did. To my nose it is beautiful – icily elegant and steadfast, sequestering a frosty tenderness not to be confused with weakness. And sadly, there exist many who equate the two.
Mia Wasikowska in Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland (a nod to the first two ÇaFleureBon Queen collaborations with Michelyn- White (2018, perfumer Sarah McCartney and reviewed by Robert Herrmann RIP and Sarah’s Red Queen)
One must first distinguish between Hans Christian Andersen’s Snow Queen and a Warrior Queen – as they are completely different entities. The Snow Queen’s heart is frozen and stony; there is not a shred of human warmth in her supernatural being. A Warrior Queen, by contrast – possesses power necessitated by her/his surroundings and situation; therein lies no element of cruelty. She/he stands enveloped in her glacially glazed silvery armor, battle-ready and resolute because she must. The world is a chaotic, often toxic environment in which the daemons and dangers she/he faces are very real. True warriors only intervene when it is imperative and there remains no other option. I feel this deeply, as it has been my default modus vivendi when myriad efforts (and often, years of effort) at peaceful and diplomatic negotiation have failed; my final option, not my first. To this end, I always wear a minuscule rose gold diamond-ruby-hilted dagger in my right ear to remind me of it.
DSH Perfumes Warrior Queen X CaFleureBon image, with Crown 8: Boudicca Diameter 26cm, Moss. Broom. Willow. Brunis Silver Leavis. Roses. Freesias. Kangaroo Paw. Statice. Astrantia. Cotton thread. Gold powder. Spray paint. Red ink. 12 x bookmaking needles. Florists’ twine. There are 12 silver needles. The gold powder dusted over it is 24 carat – Alex C. Musgave aka The Silver Fox©
DSH Perfumes Warrior Queen X ÇaFleureBon shares the tendrils of wispy incense which runs through other Queen iterations like a leitmotif. Beyond that similarity, we find ourselves in a pre-apocalyptic perfume captured in crystal: cold, clear and fiercely floral. Warrior Queen announces itself by virtue of bristling prismatic aldehydes, the sort you might find in the top notes of Chanel No.22. What we perceive as metallic (as in rose) may be rose oxides, along with the cool wetness of violet leaf and silvery orris. Frozen earth whispers to me of a possible smidgen of geosmin, with ruh khus imparting an earthiness implicit when vetiver is distilled with fine sandalwood. The spiciness and creamy aspect of Casablanca lily blends beautifully with a hawthorn note (anisaldehyde); cassie (a relative of mimosa, but spicier and more leathery) lends its haylike herbal dry woody warmth. Sweet basil shares some of the attributes of the hawthorn accord and cassie: look carefully and you can glimpse how DSH Warrior Queen X CaFleureBon’s components interweave like threads of fragrant tapestry. Plum adds richness, as do ambergris and feathery musk; green oakmoss is grounding – and weightless as signature frankincense. The warrior’s aromatic armor is now complete, an aesthetically rounded perfume created of cool accords, sensual florals and the edgy wed to comfort.
Notes: Aldehydes, Ambergris, Casablanca lily, Cassie Flower, Frankincense, (Olibanum), Frozen Earth (Accord), Frozen Lily (Accord),Green Oakmoss, Hawthorn Blossom, Lemon, Metal Rose (Accord), Musk, Orris, Plum, Ruh Khus, Silver Armor (Accord), Snowflake (Accord),Sweet Basil, Violet Leaf Absolute, and Wintery Air (Accord)
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz, we are offering a draw for 10 ml EDP/VDP of DSH Perfumes Warrior Queen X ÇaFleureBon to one registered reader, (you must register here) anywhere in the world. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 4/20/22
Editor’s Note: Dawn and I have chosen the name of the new Queen for 2023. If you guess it your comment will count 5x. PS Ida, you nailed EXACTLY what we endeavored to create.
Warrior Queen is available currently on the DSH Perfume website and will be sold in the US at Indigo Perfumery and Fragrance Vault in the near future
Direct Link https://www.dshperfumes.com/shop/warrior-queen-dsh-perfumes-x-cafleurebon/
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