DSH Perfumes La Rose Béatifique (and Damasq no.2) were inspired by roses from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Garden© photo by Dawn
A single flow’r he sent me, since we met.
All tenderly his messenger he chose;
Deep-hearted, pure, with scented dew still wet—
One perfect rose.
I knew the language of the floweret;
“My fragile leaves,” it said, “his heart enclose.”
Love long has taken for his amulet
One perfect rose. ~ Dorothy Parker, One Perfect Rose
Rose study by DSH Perfumes Instagram
Award-winning artisan perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz draws inspiration from her garden every year; she cherishes the several varieties of rose which bloom anew in June. We share that rose veneration, the intoxication of burying one’s face amidst velvety petals while being regaled by each perfume that suffuses the senses. There can never be enough roses to satisfy this lust. I have smelt many rose substitutes which are pretty – but to my mind, nothing makes my head swim like real rose concretes, absolutes, ottos, distillations. That’s why I’m thrilled that Dawn chose to utilize an all-natural palette for her June roses: each fragrance develops and evolves over the sweet unfolding of time. I may be out of step, but I’m happiest when my chosen fragrances become my travel companions; when we embark upon a journey, sit around a campfire (or in a meadow, a forest, a desert, a garden) and share the telling of tales. The first two perfumes, La Rose Béatifique (No.1) and Damasq (No.2) are an absolute (sic) joy: full of depth and nuance, they each reveal a different narrative. I literally flipped a coin in order to determine which one to review, and it landed on La Rose Béatifique.
collage of DSH Perfumes La Rose Béatifique in a 10 ml antique presentation green glass flacon, Dawn’s paintings of La Rose Béatifique, and bottom right Ida’s photo of roses in Boston Public Garden
DSH Perfumes La Rose Béatifique encompasses a wide spectrum of facets regarding this particular rose’s character: she is dewy, fruity, fleshy, buttery, plump with ionones and damascones – also known as rose ketones. She is limpid without being watery-thin, fresh but not sharp. I experience her as a full-blown Debutante Rose – womanly enough to possess curves and charm, yet beautiful in an untrammeled way, not yet having evolved into a mysterious, worldly being. La Rose Béatifique is warmhearted and frolicsome, youthful and unfettered.
Pink Rose by Michelyn
Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s catalyst was her garden’s myriad pink roses: all unadulterated happiness and good cheer, smiling with their violet and berry tones, the barest hint of cinnamon spice and pink peppercorn. Ripe, fruity jamminess is summoned by marvelous French melanges of raspberry and strawberry, cognac absolute, and a plethora of exquisite roses and rose amplifiers – rose geranium, palmarosa, Bulgarian rose absolute and otto, Turkish rose, rosa damascena and centifolia. Grandiflorum jasmine cosies up to them in a most complimentary manner, while a natural violet flower accord underlines the presence of ionones in both rose and violet. Fresh notes are imparted by green tea absolute, neroli and violet leaf (as well as cognac); fleshiness is insinuated by butter CO2. Dawn’s mastery of materials assures that these elements are seamlessly incorporated into her own unique tapestry.
John Williams Waterhouse Woman with Rose via Wiki
DSH Perfumes La Rose Béatifique rests atop a very subtle anchoring base of orris and ambrette, a natural musk accord, Australian sandalwood, and smatterings of labdanum, myrrh gum, frankincense CO2, green oakmoss and Siam benzoin. I refer to them as discreet because it wouldn’t take much for such materials to dominate the fragrance – and they never do; instead, these elements serve to add depth, tenacity and intimate liaison with the perfume as a whole entity. Dawn’s June Roses trilogy illustrates what an all-natural palette can achieve in the right hands – and I look forward to No.3. I would encourage you to sample these if you are rose mad as I am – or if you simply crave beauty. They won’t disappoint.
Notes: bergamot, pink peppercorn, butter CO2, green tea absolute, cognac, cinnamon bark, raspberry melange, strawberry melange, Tunisian neroli, Egyptian rose geranium, palmarosa, Bulgarian rose absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Turkish rose otto, rosa damascena absolute, rosa centifolia absolute, grandiflorum jasmine, natural violet flower accord, violet leaf absolute, orris concrete, ambrette, Australian sandalwood, frankincense CO2, myrrh gum, green oakmoss, labdanum natural musk accord, Siam benzoin
Samples kindly provided by the perfumer – I love them. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz, we are able to offer a draw to one registered reader of a 10 ml voile de parfum flacon (USA will receive EDP) of DSH La Rose Béatifique (you must register here) anywhere in the world (please know that there have been delivery issues of late outside CON USA). To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 6/17/2021
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