Photo by Zachary Nunn

For thousands of years, men wore florals and did not seem to feel the least bit bothered by it. Tell Henry VIII that a damask rose perfume wasn’t manly? Not if you valued your head. But nowadays, thanks to decades of marketing, many of us imagine that a flower is inherently female; Flowers for guys?  Fougeres, leather and woody scents are categorized as essentially male. DSH Perfumes’ Gardenia Vitreux is designed with men in mind., essentially male. So, how to get modern  male noses to smell gardenia – that lushest of flowers so associated with saronged beauties and Lady Day – as a masculine without resorting to dandyism?

Gardenia by Inspirations Glass

 Gardenia Vitreux is designed with men in mind. Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz cleverly elongates and layers the flower’s lactonic and spicy qualities into a filmy transparency that overlays traditional X chromosome notes such as leather, woods and musk.  The effect is a dichotomy: sharp-edged sparkler and creamy floral, a flower scent that is also fruity, musky and debonair.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes

“Instead of the typical fleshy petaled, or tropical coconut tinged, or even the blue-cheese nuanced gardenia interpretations, I wanted to find not only an ultra-modern expression, but one that had the framework of classical “men’s” fragrance designs to balance what might be considered a ‘too feminine’ floral to ever be created with men in mind,” say Spencer Hurwitz. Gardenia Vitreux begins with acidulous fruit – underripe pineapple and bergamot, followed by the powdery green scent of tomato leaf, smelling like an eau de cologne of high pedigree. Next up is some furry musk, smelling like pelt. And the gardenia? While it is not apparent to me at first, after those brash top notes calm down a bit, its characteristic lactonic thickness and white pepper spice begin to surface. These facets will rise and dissipate from time to time during the perfume’s development, like the tiny bubbles of a prosecco cocktail.

Mike Patton sporting a gardenia in the film 1922

For the first half of its trajectory, DSH Perfumes Gardenia Vitreux is all about those traditionally masculine notes. The musk is joined by a hint of leather and the bitter orange of bergamot hangs around longer than usual. But gradually, the gardenia peeks through. First, it is that unmistakable thick creaminess undercutting the fruit. Then, peppery sweet spice comes forward. Complemented by the papery headiness of jasmine, gardenia is now apparent, though continually ducking in and out of the keener, brighter notes. DSH Perfumes Gardenia Vitreux’s contrasts of vivid green fruit, musk, woods and floral notes are bracing, fresh, and urbane. Men looking for a floral they don’t have to explain to their mothers should try this – just don’t be surprised if mom dabs a bit on herself when you’re not looking.

DSH Perfumes Gardenia Vitreux

Notes: gardenia, green pineapple accord, ambergris, ambrette seed, hinoki, leather, musk, Australian sandalwood, green wood accord, grandiflorum jasmine, orris concrete, leafy green accord, aldehydes, bergamot.

Disclaimer: Sample of DSH Perfumes Gardenia Vitreux kindly provided by DSH Perfumes. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz , we have a 10 ml EDP or VDP pen of DSH Perfumes Gardenia Vitreux for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about DSH Perfumes Gardenia Vitreux based on Lauryn’s review. Congratulations Dawn on your Art and Olfaction Finalist in the Independent Category for Colorado for American Perfumer that was announced at Esxence 2019!  Draw closes 5/2/2019.

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our  blog feed…or  your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.