BIWA Teaser from @dshperfumesinstagram collage by Michelyn

On September 4, 2019 the late Robert Herrman called me from the hospital. He told me he was dying, and I began to cry.  In a calm and concerned voice he asked me to pull myself together, because he had something he wanted me to do. Choking back the tears, I listened as he asked me to specifically contact Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes about a fragrance he smelled in his mind that he named BIWA.  It was his dream to leave a scented legacy to all his friends, colleagues, and family to remember him when he was gone and he didn’t know how much time he had left in this realm.  An email followed on September 16, 2019 with a list of ingredients.

Robert Hermann, Sr. Editor Emeritus

I reached out to Dawn, and now exactly 3 months to the day after his untimely passing October 1, 2019, DSH Perfumes BIWA X Robert Herrmann debuts. Bless you Dawn for creating BIWA and now all of us who knew him or read his reviews (which are archived here) will have the opportunity to remember Robert in the most memorable way… through scent. Today as we enter into New Year, a new decade, we celebrate the life of Robert Herrmann, who is still with us in our hearts and now through perfume with BIWA. His birthday is January 4, 2019, but somehow I thought, Robert would be so happy to know his was the first new perfume of the year 2020. – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Ron Hall and Robert Herrmann

When Robert told me about BIWA, he was in ICU. He told me he had spoken with Michelyn and given her strict instructions for a perfume and that Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was to create it. As was usual, he knew exactly what he wanted: from the ingredients to the name. I asked him why the name BIWA. He said it is a lake in Japan and the only source of a special freshwater pearl. Since ancient times, pearls have been treasured, traded, coveted, and have become a metaphor for something rare, fine, admirable and valuable. I think all those traits are what Robert would want his perfume to be. Robert passed away before he could smell Dawn’s creation, but I think he could smell it in his mind. –Ron Hall, Robert’s husband

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes working on BIWA

I’ve been an independent perfumer for nearly 30 years and in that time I have watched as an entire universe has formed before my eyes.  One of the most miraculous things to have formed has been what is now called “the Fragrance Community”; a global, 24 hours a day social network of perfume lovers who, more often than not, support one another, share passions, and like any family of sorts, fights over differences of opinions.  As great good fortune would have it, I met Robert Herrmann online as a member of this world more than a decade ago as he began to share his love for vintage / vintage inspired perfumes as well as the sylvan landscape fragrances that reminded him of his childhood.  We shared many exchanges online and off, waxing poetic about perfume styles and perfumers we both admired.  Robert’s talent for fragrant storytelling was recognized by CaFleureBon’s Editor in Chief, Michelyn Camen, and Robert became a senior editor, woven into the very fabric of the site’s DNA.  (He wrote some of my favorite articles at CaFleureBon over the years!)

Robert was on his deathbed, nearing the end of his life, when in an especially clear moment he called Michelyn with an inspiration;  then a written request.  As a life-long lover of fragrance he had conceived of a beautiful fragrance that he named BIWA.  His request was that I create his fragrant vision.  (I’m still amazed and deeply honored by this singular request).  Robert was able to recite a list of notes with inflections; meaning that he gave instruction as to how to interpret some of the notes.  Here is what he shared with Michelyn and with me:

BIWA: Top: aldehydes tinged with light mint,  Middle;  Rice powder, steamed jasmine rice, touch of vanilla, Base: hinoki, Cedarwood, vanilla tinged, pine or cypress”

BIWA, is the name of the Japanese lake that produces the lovely, delicate BIWA freshwater pearls.  As I thought about the notes that Robert had imagined, I meditated on his notes list to sense how to structurally put together a perfume that would flow and to express what felt like a minimalist, essentially Japanese theme yet filled with complex subtlety.  Robert knew that I especially enjoy expressing texture and light in perfume, and I love working in Japanese modes.  The creation of BIWA has been a joyous ride.  Both rice powder and steamed jasmine rice are accord notes that had to be developed for BIWA.  I loved untying the design knots to reveal a creamy steamed rice note with the delicate rice powder effect sprinkled around it.  This progression also allows the perfume to move from a cool, pearlescent opening with the aldehydes and mint into a warmer feel as you approach the drydown. The rice rich heart also gives a lovely sense of body to a delicate pearl in perfume form.

15 ml presentation

What I love most about BIWA is its sense of ascension.  It has a kind of light that feels as if it’s moving ever upward, through luminous, gauzy clouds.  It feels beatific…and yet with an earthly comfort that a fragrant bowl of steamed jasmine rice yields.  It nourishes body and soul.  It feels like standing in the sunshine on the shores of Lake BIWA, a soft cool breeze floating in from nearby pines and cypress, and knowing the sweet love of friendship. Thank you Robert for blessing me.  I am grateful to be a part of this loving tribute to you-Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes

*All of the profits from the sale of BIWA  (less Dawn’s cost of materials) will be donated to Robert’s husband and partner of 23 years, Ron Hall, for use in offsetting medical expenses and end of life care costs.   While BIWA is a gift of love to the memory of our dear friend and a tribute to his “perfumed’ imagination”,  Robert was concerned about mounting medical bills and his love for Ron was (and is …because I believe love survives the mortal body) on his mind.

60 ml EDP

BIWA will be available in 60 ml Eau de Parfum spray (retails for $145) and 15 ml extrait presentation – ($185) on the DSH Perfumes site here and will ship worldwide. No samples will be available for sale.

Indigo Perfumery will also stock BIWA and Ann Bouterse, the owner will donate the proceeds of all sales to Ron Hall for extraordinary medical expenses incurred. Thus, no samples will be available to purchase. You can call or order here

Ron Hall owns a gift boutique (with Robert own Paper Scissors on The Rock,  214 Lopez Road, Lopez Island, WA. 98261 and a limited quantity will be available for sale there… you can call 360- 468- 2294