Der Duft Pride ©Cristian Marianciuc
How does one translate an abstract and nuanced concept such as “pride” into a fragrance? What notes or ingredients come to mind?
In the case of Der Duft Pride, the answer is simultaneously straightforward and complex. Anselm Skogstad, Der Duft founder (and perfumer for Grasse, Montopteros), enlisted Art and Olfaction Award Winning Miguel Matos (Cinematic) to create Pride and to assign an olfactive identity to an idea that exists on a fine line between vice and virtue, between contentment with oneself and hubris. Der Duft is a brand that does not necessarily offer up pre-planned narratives or starting points for the interpretation of their fragrances. Minimal in their presentation and approach to perfumery (after all, the brand’s name simply translates to ‘The Scent’), each Der Duft fragrance allows the wearer to imagine his or her own olfactive story, (my review of Prim Lomros’Act here).
©Cristian Marianciuc
But back to pride and to Dur Duft Pride
Migel Matos’ approach was one that draws inspiration from within, from a subjective and personal perspective; an approach that gradually moves outward and becomes universal, thus resonating with the ethos that Der Duft proposes: a choose-your-own adventure, except this is a pandemic-friendly, olfactive adventure, one that can be enjoyed from the comfort of your home. In his signature neo-vintage style, Matos chose a chypre DNA for Der Duft Pride. Chypre is a category or family of classic fragrances that is generally built around an accord comprised of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum. Matos explains his decision: “I think that one of the highest forms of perfume composition and perfume families is the chypre. So, I started assembling materials that I would love to explore in a vintage chypre perfume: bergamot, narcissus, jasmine, and patchouli. These can be considered as the basic building blocks for Pride.”
©Cristian Marianciuc
Pride opens with a rush of citrus that smells as if it has been soaked in dark liquor. This is a moody, earthy kind of citrus. For me, it awakens a long-lost nostalgia, but one that is new or at least updated. An atemporal nostalgia if you will. Der Duft Pride is earthy, spicy and herbaceous. Narcissus and carrot seeds lend their spicy and dark green characteristics, while the jasmine adds a different “shade” of green and a fresh, white floral creaminess. The fragrance could be described as a spectrum of refined botanical bitterness. Verdant, sharp and piquant in the opening then mellowing out as it settles on skin. I envision the forest floor, submerged in a luminous obscurity. The damp soil, the moss and the lichen bathed in the timid brilliance of a stray ray of sunlight. As time goes by, we move out of the forest (and from the opening of the fragrance), with its cool, herbal spiciness, into a tamer and more manicured landscape. A faint warmth surfaces and gradually replaces the enlivening freshness that introduced the fragrance to skin and nose. There is a quasi-mineral, acidic facet to this stage of the evolution of Pride, all wrapped in a woody and aromatic cocoon. There is also a barely-there savory sweetness, most likely emanating from the amber and sandalwood.
Cristian Marianciuc©
Der Duft Pride is a well-rounded fragrance, with roots in a classic, vintage style, but reaching out into modernity with unexpected and surprising twists and turns. Pride begins its olfactive adventure in an intimate place, a personal and familiar space. Possibly similar to the quiet pride we take in our accomplishments, in the fruit of our labor. The type of pride that is felt on an individual and molecular level and that becomes fuel for our future endeavors. The later stages of Der Duft Pride might draw a parallel with a different type of pride, one that is collective and shared across time and space. Pride for human ingenuity and resourcefulness. Pride in the results of the combined efforts of large group of people. I have a great deal of admiration for this fragrance as both olfactive art, but also for its particular and different interpretation of pride as a concept.
Pride is not just loud and colourful, that is only one of its facets. Pride is also discreet, calculated and it has its feet firmly planted on the ground. I would like to think that this very state of being grounded in your convictions and values is a direct reflection of the notes that form the heart of Der Duft Pride – that cool and comforting earthiness, the refreshing spiciness and the reassuring woody notes.
Notes: Bergamot, Narcissus, Carrot Seed, Jasmine, Cashmeran, Amber, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oakmoss
Disclaimer: A bottle of Pride was sent to me by Der Duft for this review. All opinions expressed are my own.
Cristian Marianciuc, Senior Contributor
Cristian Marianciuc©
Thanks to the generosity of Der Duft, we have a worldwide draw for one 50 ml bottle of Pride (value 120 €) for one registered reader Worldwide. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Cristian’s review of Der Duft Pride, What the word pride means to you and where you live. Draw closes 8/1/2021
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