Curionoir 415 AD Review (Tiffany Witehira) + Brilliant Hypatia Draw

Curio Noir 415 AD review 

Curionoir 415 AD photo by Ann Bouterse of Indigo Perfumery

While queens, courtesans, and even murderesses figure prominently in history, few women have left a more profound mark on its intellectual and spiritual trajectory than Greek mathematician, philosopher and astronomer, Hypatia. Born around 335 A.D., the daughter of mathematician Theon of Alexandria, Hypatia’ brilliance was widely celebrated in her own time. Her public lectures are said to have drawn crowds. But wherever there is a supremely accomplished woman, resentment and anger follow.

 The death of Hypatia

Hypatia by Raphael Sanzio

Sometime around 415, a mob of Christian zealots led by Peter the Lector dragged Hypatia from her carriage in the streets of Alexandria and hauled her off to her death. In the centuries since, Hypatia has been viewed as a martyr of secularism, a symbol of Christian virtue, an emblem of opposition, and a prototypical feminist. And, in New Zealand brand Curionoir 415 AD, she is celebrated in a splendidly assertive green fragrance that is as non-conformist and bold as its inspiration.

Tiffany Witehira of Curionoir

Tiffany Witehira, images courtesy of Curionoir

Founded by Tiffany Witehira, Curionoir embraces a “fascination for the interesting and uncommon.” The plants and resins of Hypatia’s day are used to create a fragrance brimming with wild greenery and bright, tangy fruit that also whispers of older things.

Bold, dense, full of sharp, acidic notes that ricochet like squash balls off a wall of resins, led by tomato leaf and galbanum. I must admit that I love the bitter, peppery-dusty smell of tomato leaf. I’ve grown tomato plants nearly every summer in my apartment, knowing they stand no chance of bearing fruit, just to have the scent of their leaves nearby. It’s the smell of rural farms, of late summer afternoons, of Ray Bradbury childhood kitchens. So, I fell immediately for 415 AD’s opening; the vinegary vines seem to climb right out of the bottle on first spray. Their unmistakably spiky, vegetal odor is underscored by some well-placed grapefruit that makes it seem like underripe fruit hangs on the stalk. A blast of galbanum joins in, some chilly, aromatic rosemary pops up, and 415 AD is very quickly (to borrow from Simon & Garfunkel) one big bright green pleasure machine.

415 AD by Curionoir

Image courtesy of Curionoir

You might well be thinking that all those fluorescently acidic notes might be as biting and as hard to receive as a Dorothy Parker zinger. But after the piccolo brilliance of the top, there’s a subtle shift. A hard-to-put-a-finger-on dustiness blows through the center and a melancholy waft of olibanum murmurs of older things. Myrrh, which often comes across to me as a warm and furry scent, is more medicinal here, especially when paired with the crackly dryness of agarwood. Adding the rich, vanillic sweetness of benzoin to the base helps to round out the fragrance. Moving away from 415 AD and then returning to it some minutes later as it heads towards dry-down, it seems less aggressive and more plaintive, with an ache of something past and elusive. I’ve come across a very few perfumes with this quality – Scents of Time Pyxis, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s astonishing Onycha – fragrances which seem to carry the familiar-strange odors of antiquity.

Curionoir 415 AD is for wearers who prefer their fragrances, like their historical heroines, with a big dose of swag. If you thought Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane could do with just a smidge more galbanum or that Nikki de St Phalle could be a tad more idiosyncratic, Curionoir 415 AD is just your poison green. Shrinking violets, you’ve been warned.

Notes: Tomato leaf, grapefruit, rosemary, Iranian galbanum, Somalian olibanum, agarwood, myrrh and Siam benzoin.

Disclaimer: Sample of Curionoir 415 A.D. kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Curionoir 415 AD by New Zealand perfumer Tiffany Witehira

Curionoir 415 AD  courtesy of Cuirnoir

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have a draw for a 50 ml bottle of Curionoir 415 AD (50 ml extrait is $265) for one registered reader in the U.S. only. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Curionoir 415 AD based on Lauryn’s review and if you are familiar with Curionoir. Draw closes 5/1/2021.

Indigo Perfumery will be reopening May 1st, 2021… Great news so take a look at their website for store hours www.indigoperfumery.com 

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31 comments

  • Julesinrose says:

    I am not familiar with Curionoir, but I hope to be. Much here to strike me. What an image – “notes that ricochet like squash balls”!! And growing tomatoes for the leaves and scent. I get that, as I adore the smell of tomato leaf, too. I find it fascinating in that it causes synesthesic sense memory of smell/touch when one encounters it in perfumery, at least in my experience, and I don’t have synesthesia. I am in Maine, USA

  • Very interesting. I’m always drawn to scents that are out the mainstream and this sounds so unique. I’m not familiar with this brand.

  • The story of Hypatia is tragic. It’s interesting that 415 AD was created with plants and resins found during her lifetime. I like the unique note of tomato leaf in a fragrance. Thanks for another great article and generous draw! Mich USA

  • I did not know about Hypatia before this article. It is great that Curionoir pays proper tribute to Hypatia by using ingredients from Hypatia’s days. I am in US.

  • This is a wonderful review of a house I was not familiar with so thank you.the story of Hypatia is not so different than so many stories told even last century.
    I didn’t know that Curionoir is from New Zealand amd I looked up the perfumer who is Maori. Please count me in I love green swaggy perfumes

  • Courtenay Courier says:

    I am a rather nostalgic person, and the description of tomato leaves (my favourite green scent) and grapefruit (my favourite food) with the whisper of older things really intrigues me! I am not yet familiar with Curionoir, though Curionoir 415 AD would be welcome introduction.

  • It’s wild to me that I had first heard about Curionoir minutes before reading this review! I haven’t had the pleasure of experiencing any of their offerings yet, but I am incredibly interested in them. Lauryn seemed to describe a scent unlike anything else I’ve ever smelled and it just rocketed to the top of my endless “must try” list.

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    415AD is a heroine of a perfume, always when back in my native Auckland, I visit with Tiffany in her shop and studio, conversations are long and with a shared passion… This perfume has a bold place all of its own in my collection. Tiffany is a gentle, inspiring creatress always close to her roots and heritage. I am thrilled that Curionoir has found a place at Indigo so that her incredble creations can reach all the more. She deserves it… I encourage you all to try her samples, you will not be disappointed. Living in SW France, missing the streets of Ponsonby…..

  • This sounds amazing! I the “cautionary tale” of galbanum by Lauryn is definitely interesting as it is one of my favorite additions to fragrance. It sounds almost like an incense forward version of Le Sillage Blanc from Dusita and I’d love to try this
    NY USA

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    The greenness of this excites me, particularly the tomato leaf. I love Lauryn’s sense memories connected with tomato leaf! I also love the description of how it is balanced out with warmer more resinous notes in the drydown. I’ve heard of this brand and have been dying to try the scents. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • I didn’t know much about Hypatia, strangely. So thank you for bringing her to my attention. This scent sounds like exactly what I need. I am no shrinking violet and I love scents that aren’t too “girly”. I remember when tomato leaf was a popular note in the late 90s, and I’ve been thinking it is time for a comeback. I would absolutely love this scent, though I am not familiar with Curionoir. I am in the US.

  • I am so happy to see a fragrance dedicated to the brilliant Hypathia through the use of uncommon materials, such as herbs, resins, and tomato leaf, to compose an obscure, bitter fragrance rounded by rich base notes. It’s sadly true that highly accomplished women often trigger anger and resentment, so I appreciated seeing this spelled out so honestly. I am in the DFW area.

  • GennyLeigh says:

    I’ve never heard of Hypatia before, but she sounds like a formidable woman. I love Lauryn’s observation that “ …wherever there is a supremely accomplished woman, resentment and anger follow.” True. Just look at the women healers that were branded as witches by an ignorant populace. Curionoir 415AD sounds refreshingly non-floral. The rosemary, galbanum, agar wood and myrrh give that biting green and woody scent I associate with unspoiled nature. The benzoin softens the whole composition. Love the story and I would love to try. I’m not familiar with Curionoir. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • After having read from this review: I truly want to have this fragrance; it seems like one that I can, very much, enjoy. It’s list of notes is very appealing to me. The part where Lauryn puts this fragrance in the category of “fragrances which seem to carry the familiar-strange odors of antiquity” made this fragrance seem very interesting to me. I appreciated learning about what this fragrance is like. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • Not familiar with Curionoir perfumes, yet. I liked the story of Hypatia in Lauryn’s review and how Curionoir 415 AD Is a tribute to this lady’s genius. Not sure how I feel about tomato leaf note, but I am quite drawn to the myrrh, galbanum, agarwood, the so-called older smells. I love perfumes that celebrate history, historical figures, landscapes and generally thematic perfumes. Thanks for the review of Curionoir 415 AD and a generous draw. I am in USA.

  • Lauryn’s review is SO spot on. Thank you for sharing! Here’s my favorite part.

    A hard-to-put-a-finger-on dustiness blows through the center and a melancholy waft of olibanum murmurs of older things. Myrrh, which often comes across to me as a warm and furry scent, is more medicinal here, especially when paired with the crackly dryness of agarwood. Adding the rich, vanillic sweetness of benzoin to the base helps to round out the fragrance. Moving away from 415 AD and then returning to it some minutes later as it heads towards dry-down, it seems less aggressive and more plaintive, with an ache of something past and elusive.
    I am working my way through Tiffany’s glorious creations and this is just Gawjus! The longevity is incredible.
    Thanks for the very generous giveaway, I live in the USA.

  • It’s hard not to be swept up in this review considering how the punishment for successful women is at the forefront of my consciousness after watching American politics over the years. Especially recently. Sometimes it’s comforting to know some things remain the same, but not in this case. A totally radical fragrance like this seems like a fitting response. Blow up the status quo. I’m not familiar with Curionoir, but I’m not surprised they are based in New Zealand. I’d love to be taken on this journey. I live in the USA.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    away strikes me about this fragrance is that it’s a (IMHO) ‘Smack-You-In-The-Face’ fragrance. Myrrh, olibanum, galbanum, benzoin, tomato leaf…ahhhhhhhh…and who doesn’t like a fragrance with swag. Bring…It….ON!

    Until this article, I had never heard of Curionoir, and 415 A.D. is a good introduction.

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • I love a good green fragrance, and when you compared this to Nikki de St. Phalle, I was completely sold. Plus it sounds so complex in the story it tells— I dare not resist. (SoCal)

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    This is first time I have heard of this house and I LOVE the inspiration and fragrance. I love the scent of tomato leaf and it has never ever occurred to me to grow the plants inside during the winter for the aroma. I also was not familiar with Hypatia so I’m learning of two interesting things today. Thanks for this review and draw. I’m in the US.

  • I adore the idea of an assertive green fragrance honoring Hypatia. She is a worthy woman to conjure. The scent of tomato leaf is a tender memory from my childhood. I’m curious how that works with myrrh. It sounds like a High Mass in a kitchen garden. Curionoir is new to me. I am in Virginia, USA.

  • I’m only familiar with this line from seeing it at Indigo’s website. I love this description and the inspiration behind the scent. Galbanum with a myrrh/benzoin drydown? Sign me up! I’m in the US.

  • Dubaiscents says:

    Having noticed this new line on Indigo’s website, I quickly ordered myself a set of samples because they all sounded so unique. I haven’t had a chance to try them yet but, this one will be at the top of my list because I adore green scents and especially ones with a tomato leaf note. I would love to own a bottle of 415 based on the story behind it alone. Thank you for the opportunity. US

  • Michael Prince says:

    What strikes you about Curionoir 415 AD based on Lauryn’s review is learning about Hypatia which died as a Martyr in 415 AD. This fragrance was created based on fragrance notes that would be popular during that time which consists of green notes, resins, oud, and vanilla to name a few. I am not familiar with Curionoir, but it sounds like a good fragrance. I am from Ohio, USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review Lauryn!

    I love fragrances that feature that green vegetal note of tomato leaf. Every time I am in my garden and brush against my tomato plants, it’s a smell that transports me to a different place.

    I really loved reading about your experience with this fragrance and your Simon and Garfunkel allusion. Chevalier Vert from Olympic ORchids is one of my favorite fragrances in this category. I think one of the most interesting aspects of this fragrance is the use of animalic agarwood and myrhh and benzoin in the base with thos acrid greens.

    I am unfortunately not familar with this house.

  • I’m not familiar with Cruionoir, but this sounds interesting and unique…I’d love to have a chance to try it. I’m in Oklahoma.

  • Nara Hodgson says:

    After reading this article I was instantly reminded of an article I came across about researchers trying to compose scents based on historical periods. “Scents of history: study hopes to recreate smells of old Europe | Science | The Guardian Such an interesting concept! I have never tried Curionoir.