Clary Sage In Perfumery “The Scent of Clarity” + Parfums Dusita Issara and Erawan Draw

 

Clary Sage in perfumes

Clary Sage is also known as Salvia sclarea L./Botanical drawing stock image

Some say it hints of ambergris, for others it is the smell of tobacco. It is dryly herbaceous but sweetly so, it may be a bit floral, definitely with hints of tea or balsam, but also completely unique. Clary sage is one of those essential oils that makes itself known as soon as you open the bottle, filling the room with its fragrance. Somewhere in that complex and unique fragrance is the scent of euphoria. If we climb the family tree we find that clary sage is in the mint family, Lamiaceae, which may have been named after the mythical creatures called Lamia, monstrous women with hindquarters of a serpent or beast who devoured children and young men. Going higher we find that it is also a sage and a member of the genus Salvia, possibly from the Latin salvere which means to be well and healthy. The species name is sclarea, again from Latin, and meaning clear. Its use in medicines goes back to Pliny the Elder and Dioscorides in the 1st century and it has a long history of clearing and healing sore eyes.

 

clary sage fragrances

Trueloveseeds.com

With long and hairy leaves, the plant grows to 3-4 feet with stems that are square and also hairy. Flowers are borne in long colorful bracts with a uniquely-shaped sage-type flower. Clary sage is native to areas of the northern Mediterranean, North Africa, and central Asia but is cultivated in central Europe, Russia, England, Italy, Morocco, and North America.

 

best clary sage perfumes

Photo by Charles Harris ourstate.com

In North America, clary sage is grown for distillation in the Northwest and in North Carolina. The story of production in coastal North Carolina goes back to the 1950’s and the tobacco company, R.J. Reynolds and the formation of a cartel in the tobacco-producing countries of Eastern Europe. These countries produced the aromatic variety called Oriental tobacco and had formed the cartel with the goal of controlling, and potentially raising, the price of their product. Researchers at R.J. Reynolds discovered that a constituent of clary sage, sclareol, is the precursor of a compound, sclareolide that was an important flavor ingredient in Asian tobacco. Hoping to reduce their dependence on suppliers, R.J. Reynolds went into the clary sage business. Fields of pink flowers in northeastern North Carolina still produce both the essential oil and sclareol, which is extracted from the spent material after distillation. The sclareol is chemically manipulated into sclareolide—a precursor for ambergris substitutes like Ambrox which are critical to modern perfumery both as fixatives and to add complex nuances of wood, tobacco, oakmoss, and ambergris.

 

clary sage

via shutterstock

Fields of pink clary sage flowers are dramatic, fragrant, and lovely in bloom but some don’t appreciate the fragrance and use descriptions ranging from dirty socks to stinky armpits and dead things. However, take those flowering tops, include a few leaves, distill them, and you may find the characteristic aroma of a dry sweet herb, tea, good wine, tobacco, and ambergris.

what is clary sage used for in health

via shutterstock

Solvent extraction produces an absolute of clary sage. The absolute can be quite different from the essential oil, lacking some of the strange herbal notes and exhibiting a complex blend of balsam, tobacco, hay, sweet floral, and ambergris. It adds interest for perfumes, especially where a touch of rich and natural green is called for, and is also an excellent fixative. Also known as Muskateller Salbeiol (muscatel sage oil) clary sage is used in European wines, liqueurs and vermouths for its unique flavor. Sage ale was a popular brew in the Middle Ages, being quite intoxicating but generally leaving one with a severe headache the next day. We now know clary sage also has euphoric effects and should not be used before driving or operating machinery. It should definitely not be combined with alcohol, thus perhaps the headaches and severe intoxication.

 

benefits of clary sage for women health

Gathering clary sage in the Middle Ages  via wiki 

The leaves of the plant may be used in flavoring foods, especially soups and stews, or dipped in batter and fried to make fritters. Tiny amounts of the essential oil may also enhance some fruity flavors as well as tea and rum. Clary sage can balance both female and male hormones, and is often used for PMS issues. It is good for skin and hair, it may reduce blood pressure, and aid in concentration. Historically the thick mucilage from the seeds has been used to clear the eyes of irritating objects. Spiritually and mentally it may help bring about clarity, strengthen memory, assist in vivid dreaming and dream recall, and may even bring about prosperity.

 

Clary sage opens the third eye chakra

stock photo

Clary sage can be inspirational and uplifting, fighting depression and paranoia, and occasionally working its aphrodisiacal magic. Just as the physical eye may be cleared, the third eye may also be clarified by the essential oil prior to spiritual workings.

 

Daniel Krasofski perfumer

Daniel at FRAGments with “AVEDA: The Early Pure-Fumes 1986-1996.” Photo by Ellen Covey 

Daniel Krasofski, who has studied clary sage in the context of aromatherapy, perfumery, and art has this to say about both the essential oil and the absolute:

“As an essential oil, AVEDA used it in many formulations for its therapeutic and psychological. One of my favorite AVEDA products, and long since discontinued, was part of the Futurity line of massage and bath products called “Relax Total Body Compound” oil. Relax was a velvety, spicy aroma that assisted in calmly soothing the body and mind. The key essential oils were anise, sandalwood and clary sage. For over a decade, Clary Sage essential oil was part of my Individualized Accords at Ona Spa in Hollywood. “Emotional Balance” accord included Clary Sage, organic Orange, Cedarwood, organic Geranium and organic Lavender essential oils in a base of avocado, coconut and jojoba oils.

Carven Ma Griffe Jean Carles vintage

Vintage ad of Ma Griffe circa 1947

In perfumery, Clary Sage Absolute is a great modifier ingredient in fragrance families such as Chypre, Fougere, Aldehydics, Colognes, Oriental, Amber Perfumes as well as fine soaps. In small quantities it could be found in classic perfumes like Shalimar, Fougere Royale, Obsession, Youthdew and Mitsouko. According to the master perfumer Jean Carles, Clary Sage is effective in Chypre accords, most likely it was included in his brilliant perfume of yesteryear Ma Griffe.”

artisan fragrances with clary sage

 Illustration by Pissara Umavijani of Parfums Dusita

Use it for its ability to evoke tranquility, appreciate its nuances of tobacco, hay, herbs, and flowers, open your third eye, sniff it out in vintage and artisan perfumes, and fall in love with the herb that is clary sage.

Elise Pearlstine—Editor and Natural Perfumer for Tambela

Issara Clary sage Parfums Dusita

 

Dusita Paris Issara Extrait courtesy of Dusita

Thanks to award winning artisan perfumer Pissara Umavijani of Parfums Dusita we have a draw worldwide.

Erawan photo courtesy of Dusita

To be eligible please leave a comment with what you learned about Clary Sage in Perfumery, which Parfums Dusita Fragrance (Issara or Erawan, both use very high percent of clary sage) you would like to win and where you live. The draw is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. Draw closes 11/17/ 2020

Follow us @cafleurebon @elisepearlstine  @parfumsdusita  @ploiuma @d_krasofski

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99 comments

  • INYA says:

    I do love herbaceous perfumes and clary sage. One of my favorite fragrances, from long ago, was Ma Griffe! If lucky, I’d choose Issara, from Parfums Dusita. Thanks for another generous draw! Mich USA

  • yumsylee says:

    Didn’t know clary sage has lots of health benefits including PMS and reduce blood pressure. If I win, I would choose Erawan. IL, USA

  • Doni says:

    Knew clary sage was in the mint family, but I certainly didn’t know about its occular healing properties nor its use in flavouring tobacco! Definitely sounds like I would prefer the absolute too. And with its apparent neurological effects, it may be that we could all use a bit more clary sage in our lives right now. Would love to win Issara! Canada.

  • Descartes says:

    Studies have shown that supplementation with sage led to improved memory and better cognitive ability in individuals with Alzheimer’s disease. Native Americans also used white sage in ceremonies of birth and death and to purify the mind, body and spirit before praying .Sacred objects such as pipes and eagle feathers were passed through the smoking of burning white sage in order to purify them.
    Fascinating reading. For me is very aromatic.incense and relaxing,a very versatile plant and a gift from the universe to us humans.I love it in my kitchen to flavour fish and meat sauces even when it dried out you can crushed with your fingers and smell and experience its aromatic qualities. I love as perfume: Sage mais pas trop by Les filles à la Vanille.
    My choice is Issara.
    Ireland,EU

  • FC says:

    I am in the camp that does think clary sage has hints of tobacco. Hence, I am not surprised that a type of clary sage found its way in Asian tobacco products. I was aware clary sage is used as an ingredient in food in certain cultures. My choice is Issara. USA.

  • Brian says:

    I thank Pissara and Parfums Dusita for the bottles of perfume for this draw. I appreciate learning more about clary sage and perfumery. I think that it’s good to know that Clary sage Absolute is a modifier ingredient. I’ve been enjoying learning more about chypres, fougeres, and more. The Parfums Dusita perfume which I might prefer, between the two, might be Issara. I hope that I win the draw; I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • zacharyari23 says:

    I only recently discovered the Clary Sage note. I purchased a handmade mustache wax that was scented with Clary Sage. It seemed incredibly familiar yet new and exciting. This happens often as I come across essential oils or products with a one or only a few notes.
    Since then, I haven’t come across any fragrances that were based on or predominantly Clary Sage, so I was very excited to see this review. I knew it was in the mint/salvia family, but I did not know of its historical use in Europe.
    If I could choose one Parfums Dusita Fragrance, it would be Issara.
    Zachary, writing in from Colorado.

  • Trinity33 says:

    So many interesting facts about clary sage! I never knew it was a member of the mint family. I do get an ambergris quality from the EO so I can see why it would be used in the manufacture of Ambrox. I also recall hearing that it was considered a euphoric but didn’t know it’s use in brewing medieval ale. I would dearly love to win Erawan! Commenting from MD, USA.

  • patrick_348 says:

    This was a hugely informative article. I now understand the difference between clary sage and the regular sage we cook with. The flowers do look extraordinary, and I never realized how extensively clary sage has been used throughout history. I enjoy drinking vermouth both in cocktails and straight, so this will give me a better sense of what can make it special. I like woody ahd herbaceous perfumes, so Issara would be my choice. I am in the US in North Carolina and want to give thanks to Pissara Umavijani for making the drawing possible.

  • Gail says:

    Clary sage to the rescue! Whenever I feel overwhelmed or over stressed I reach for clary sage diluted in jojoba oil, or better yet I spritz my favorite clary sage fragrance – Dusita Erawan. A couple of years ago the beautiful Erawan helped calm a stormy experience with shingles! Both Issara and Erawan are amazing and I know the winner will be thrilled . No need to include me in this draw as I am a recent winner and already own both Issara and Erawan.

  • Shamrock1313 says:

    I have a few frags with clary sage and it’s so enjoyable when done correctly.
    Sounds like it’s been mastered with these offerings. Enjoyed reading it’s many uses and where it’s sourced.
    My choice would be Issara.
    Pennsylvania USA

  • AleksCipri says:

    This was so interesting! I did not now anything about clary sage as it turn out! I do know the plant since I come from the Balkan region in Europe. I of course new about its beneficial properties and use in food. But I had no idea it was used in tobacco making. I also didn’t know that clary sage in perfumery can be used to produce so many different smells like tobacco or ambergris. Very interesting!! Out of the two Dusita fragrance I would pick Issara, although it wasn’t an easy choice for sure! I really love notes in both of them. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • Daniel Fisher says:

    I really loved this deep dive into Clary Sage and it’s multifaceted impact upon perfumery. Who could have guessed it’s derivative compounds are precursors to Ambrox? It seems like it has a long use as a traditional medicine and as an intoxicant. It seems like a really special plant. If I had to choose between these two, I’d pick Issara, because I was moved by Pissara’s “thousand herb summers” imparting healing and vitality in sublime fashion. She’s really nurtured her brand is so involved in community outreach and I think it’s so commendable (and even necessary for a niche brand to really succeed!). Thank you to Pissara and Cafleurebon!
    From Texas with Love
    Xoxo

  • LindsayK says:

    It is remarkable to think that clary sage has been used in medicine as far back as the first century, at least. Lots of fascinating information in this review, so thank you. I would be lucky to win a bottle of either fragrance, but perhaps Issara if I must name one. Oregon, USA.

  • moshe says:

    Wow, I didn’t know about all that medicinal and spiritual benefits that clary sage has. The only thing that I knew about sage was it’s name in spanish, salvia, and it’s beautiful herbal aroma that I love.
    The most interesting thing I learned is that it is a plant that evokes tranquility. Finding tranquility is one of my main goals in life, because tranquility and occupation is what gives you happiness.
    Both Issara and Erawan sound beautiful and i wish I could have both, but if I win I think i would choose Issara.
    Thank you Pissara and ÇaFleureBon for the opportunity.
    Regards from Mexico.

  • Dami says:

    This was a good article about an amazing herb and raw material used in fragrance. The flowers are simply gorgeous! I was also intrigued by clary sage’s uplifting properties. Between the two fragrances I would pick Issara. In the USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I was aware that Native Americans use Clary sage in purification rites, but I didn’t know the many other uses for clary sage. Many thanks for a most informative article. I’d love to win Issara from Parfums Dusita. Many thanks to Pissara Umavijani for this most generous draw. I’m in the USA

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    Impressive job Elise . I’ve learned a lot of new things about clary sage , some I knew already. The way the tobacco company was trying to monopolize the market was a fun fact.
    “..is used in European wines”
    As a wine lover, to a degree of fanaticism, I have to say there are wines with clary sage in are rare , it’s not like you could go into every liquor store is Europe and buy it. Yes i have tried 2 in one night, horrible mistake. The taste is hard to describe, it does not taste and smell like a regular wine, but like a wine cocktail with some bitter herb in it.
    Parfums Dusita discovery set is in my possession, and my favorite Dusita fragrance is Erawan , closely followed by Splendiris , and then cimes Issara. Splendiris could have been my number 1 , i like the smell the most , but unlike all other Parfums Dusita fragrances is close to the skin fragrance , and i like my fragrances to project. In the context of Elise review, I have to say both Erawan and Issara were well picked for the article.
    Erawan would be great
    Thanks a lot
    Back and forth between USA and Scotland, one week in US -> one week in Scotland, and so on. Basically both USA and EU/UK at the same time

  • flosolentia says:

    Thank you, this is a very interesting and informative article. Firstly, I had no idea that sage belongs to the mint family, and secondly, it was a discovery for me that sage causes the effect of euphoria, although I heard that sage is also called the herb of fortunetellers.
    I am from Europe
    And I am into Issara

  • John Gahlt says:

    Beautiful, almost scientific work! I did not know many properties of sage, for example, Sage is considered a cult plant of the ancient Celts. Druids believed that he was able to protect a person from all evil, as well as bestow wisdom and longevity on him.
    Sage leaves are often used as a defense against disease. According to popular belief, in order not to become a victim of a pestilence or an epidemic, it is enough to eat a dozen petals of its flowers every day. And if, at the birth of a child, you give him a charm of several sage leaves, he will grow strong and healthy.
    In general, a sage amulet is able not only to save from ailments, but also to make a person wiser and more successful. To do this, you need to sew a small bag and put only three leaves of this magical plant in it.

    UK, Wisbech
    I would like Issara

  • Nathalie S says:

    How interesting it is! How many useful features sage has, I didn’t even know that it can be dipped in dough and fried. I’ll have to try. Sage is not very widespread in our country, or rather, it is difficult to find it in stores, but seeds are sold. I did not know that it has so many useful properties, and that sage is often added to wine or beer, and in Latin America, wonderful tonic soft drinks are made from the crushed root of the plant.

    I would like to win Issara
    I am from Eastern Europe

  • ElenaChiss says:

    I did not know that clary sage has so many useful purposes!
    What I most liked about it from this article was that spiritually and mentally it may help bring about clarity, strengthen memory, assist in vivid dreaming and dream recall, and may even bring about prosperity.

    I am in Europe and my pick is Issara, but they both sound wonderful!

    Thank you!

  • AnTar says:

    These articles that focus on a single note are very interesting and at the same time you get more knowledge on a particular part of what makes perfumery so great! I knew that clary sage has medical properties, but never knew about the other ones!
    If I were to win, I would go with Issara. This one seems more on my liking regarding the notes.
    Thanks! Europe

  • C K says:

    There was so much info to learn about clary sage but one part I found most interesting was about after the distillation sclareol is extracted and “…The sclareol is chemically manipulated into sclareolide—a precursor for ambergris substitutes like Ambrox which are critical to modern perfumery both as fixatives and to add complex nuances of wood, tobacco, oakmoss, and ambergris.” I had no idea that clary sage was used in this way or of the many facets it can put off especially once made into an absolute. Both of the offerings from Parfums Dusita sound wonderful and Issara and Erawan even seem to share similarities aside from just the clary sage. If I won I would choose Issara though it is a tough choice especially without having tried either. Thanks from the U.S for this very generous draw.

  • DuftHochZwei says:

    Another generous gift by Pissara, amazing, thank you! I don’t have clary sage on my list of important notes to watch out for, I’m impressed by the complexity you describe here. Euphoria!? I’d love to win this to Germany, thanks for the draw!

  • Joyceee says:

    Thanks for a great review, Elise! I appreciate articles like this, ones that talk about individual ingredients. It makes us readers appreciate the fragrances more, being able to relate it with the history and composition of scents. This part is what I liked most-‘Spiritually and mentally it may help bring about clarity, strengthen memory, assist in vivid dreaming and dream recall, and may even bring about prosperity.’ I’d love to win Issara. I’m a huge fan of Dusita Parfums. Thanks for this opportunity! – CA, USA

  • RonaldJ says:

    I never knew Clary Sage Oil was such a magnificent product! I loved reading the article, but I also enjoyed reading all the comments here with a plethora of additional information. I’ll have to check whether I can get these bottles of perfume on prescription!

    I’m especially interested in the fact that Clary sage can be inspirational and uplifting, fighting depression and paranoia. I could really use a booster in these cold and dark times.

    I’m from the UK and would love to win Issara.

  • Linda says:

    This is my fascination / passion with fragrance…the connection with the subconscious mind. The process of creating a fragrance in this category is pure alchemy.
    I wish for a gift of Issara.
    USA

  • kirisekii says:

    Thanks for such an interesting article! I knew pretty close to nothing about this note, so I found many new things. It is impressive, how widely clary sage may be used. Also, this is what I’m going to try when I feel the need for tranquility.
    I wish to win and try Issara, would be more than happy.
    I live in Lithuania, EU.

  • Uncle1979 says:

    Elise tried to look at clary sage from a few different angles, awesome read.
    Now as a Chef, I have to say from a culinary , and beverage point of view, some of the things mentioned are not exactly true, or need clarification :
    “Also known as Muskateller Salbeiol (muscatel sage oil) clary sage is used in European wines, liqueurs and vermouths for its unique flavor.”

    In small quantities yes , because otherwise it could become dangerous for the customer. The other reason is both sage, and especially clary sage are dominant , and could easily overpowere the food, or the beverage.

    “Sage ale was a popular brew in the Middle Ages”
    Sage brew was popular, and actually it’s popular right now, with the craft beer revolution. A lot of craft beers are using sage , but not crary sage.

    “The leaves of the plant may be used in flavoring foods, especially soups and stews, or dipped in batter and fried to make fritters.”

    The leaves could be used in soups and stews, but that’s not common. Mostly are used with fish, and meat. If it’s Game (for those who don’t know, meat of a wild animal/bird) , or a bottom fish , it’s almost a must. Works well with rosemary, basil , thyme and bay leaf . Clary Sage Pork Roast for example is a classic recipe.

    “it may reduce blood pressure”

    Not may , it WILL. If your blood pressure is low to begin with, don’t risk it.
    To end my culinary and beverage rant , and to go back to Parfums Dusita 🙂
    For a long period of time I was curious about all the buzz around Parfums Dusita, praises basically everywhere.On one of the Facebook fragrance groups , a guy was selling 4 barely used Parfums Dusita samples I bought them.My impressions:
    1. I like barnyard kind of oud , but civet bombs I can’t stand, so Oudh Infini is not my kind of fragrance. To me it’s like a boxing heavyweight champion throwing punches of animalics .
    2. Issara . Nice one dry , woody and herbal. The tobacco in the base is so good. Leans masculine.
    3. La Douceur de Siam to me smells like apricot and frangipani dessert cake . It’s popular in some Asian countries. Pastry Chef in me can’t stay still.
    4. Erawan – green, woody and milky , slightly sweet.
    I can’t really tell what’s my favorite between Issara , and Erawan .
    Flipped a coin, Issara if luck is on my side for once.
    Appreciate the review, and the giveaway campaign
    USA

  • stac8080 says:

    Well I learned about sclareol and sclareolide and that they are precursors to ambergris substitutes like Ambrox. I have only ever noticed the uplifting herbal and tea like nuances of Clary Sage, though I suppose the uplifting part of it would be the ambergris-like aspect that they are isolating.
    If I’m lucky enough to win I’d choose Issara.
    I’m in Canada.

  • serge_k says:

    Thank you Elise for such a great article! Before reading it I knew that Clary Sage had many medical applications including eyes, skin and hair therapy, and considered Clary Sage more as medical herb rather than a raw material for perfumery. What a splendid odorant! I am surprised to find out that its oil has tobacco and tea nuances and I will definitely pay more attention to Clary Sage oil in the future.
    Thank you Pissara for the give-away! I had a chance to sample Issara in the past and it was out-of-this-world experience. I would be delighted to win Issara. Sergey, Moscow, Russia.

  • Dosva says:

    So interesting article!! Thanks!
    Didn’t know clary sage has lots of health benefits.
    It is interesting that clary sage are great ingredient for chype perfumes which I love very much.
    I tested Dusita Issara and felt in love even I di not like herbal, hey notes, but Issara so beautiful and balanced- real art!
    I would like to win Issara.
    from Armenia with love.

  • Annatar says:

    Wow, that’s an enlightening article, thank you, Elise! Clary sage is rather popular in Russia, so I knew some of the facts, but I never ever heard of sage ale before! Must have been a strange brew 🙂

    I’m a huge fan of Pissara’s perfumes including both Issara and Erawan, and since I already own the latter, should I win, I’d love to have a bottle of Issara: its delicate lavender/pine/tobacco blend (well, that’s what I thought it was) is truly inimitable.

    Thank you for the draw! Russia

  • Timea says:

    Amazing review. I do love herbal perfume, but I never had a chance to try perfume with dominant Clary Sage. I did not know that this plant have so much health benefits an it is uplifting. I think I would chose Erawan. Thank you very much for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Jed Or Alive says:

    I’ve always enjoyed clary sage in perfumes, but I wasn’t aware of the purported spiritual and mental benefits. I would love to win Issara, as I’ve been very much enjoying my sample but it’s sadly almost empty. Located in California, USA.

  • simo975g says:

    I’m not very familiar with clary sage in fragrances. It is fantastic in cooking and the plant smells amazing. Tobacco is a favorite note of mine and I think clary sage could be up there as well because of the similarities. Greatly appreciate the informative review and the generous draw. Perhaps this is my chance to finally try a fragrance from Dusita. It’s a tough choice but I have to pick Issara. I live in EU.

  • Eriy says:

    Interesting to read about the healing especially with PMS I didn’t know any of this and about opening the third eye. I would love to try Issara if I won. I am in U.K.

  • mleenstra says:

    I really like how Elise explores one ingredient in this article. As a mediaevalist I really enjoyed the historical background and I’d never heard of the existence of Sage Ale. Shame they didn’t know combined with alcohol it leads to terrible headaches. I wasn’t aware Issara and Erwan both have a high percentage of clary sage in them. I really love both, but Erawan has my slight preference. Marit, UK

  • gianluca says:

    There was a time I had a bottle of Clary Sage essential oil. To me it was a weird smell. I always love a little botanical chemistry, history, and stories. Erawan sounds like something I’d tr more. (US)

  • sillage4ever says:

    I’ve only recently discovered the joys of clary sage essential oil, interesting to learn it was used to make tobacco. There’s a chameleon quality to clary sage I appreciate.

    Erawan’s cozy hay seems my kind of thing, I’m in Oregon and thanks for the drawing.

  • gtrill says:

    I love both of these perfumes so much, but Erawan is the one that truly stole my heart. It transports me to this wonderful memory I have of swimming in waterfalls in northern Laos after spending a day at an elephant orphanage. I’d be so happy to finally own a bottle to revisit this memory. I’ve been curious about clary sage ever since I smelled these for the first time, I really get that sweet hay (almost chocolatey) feeling from it, but I’d never heard of the medicinal benefits before (maybe that’s part of why I find the scents so uplifting)! Thanks from California

  • seanchen says:

    I learned that even though the name of the plant is Clary Sage, it is actually in the mint family which I find very intriguing. I don’t actually know what the scent of Clary Sage is like so hopefully I can learn about that as well since I would not be able to pinpoint that scent if I came across it. I would like to win Issara out of the two.
    I am in FL, USA.

  • jundaasian says:

    I learned about all of the possible effects that Clary sage can have on the human body from possibly improving concentration to balancing hormones. I think that it is so interesting that plants can have such an effect on humans. I would like to win Issara if I am lucky enough to win the give away and I live in Florida, US.

  • NikkoNikko says:

    I didn’t know much about Clary Sage, but I learned a lot from this article. I’m amazed at how many applications it has, from medicine, additives in food and tobacco, as well as spiritual uses. It was also interesting to find out that perfume oils differ greatly in scent from essential oils, I’ve gotta smell some single notes to know just how much. Between the two Dusita perfumes, I think I would enjoy Isarra as it seems a bit less green. Great read, thanks for the chance to win. From Idaho, USA

  • statikstepz says:

    Hello, I live in Florida in the USA! What I loved learning about Clary Sage is how many ways it can take on a different scent to different people… how some pick up hints of ambergris, some hints of tobacco, some floral with hints of tea or balsam… and that it apparently is also in the mint family. Also loved learning how it used to be used in medicine for eyes. It is also grown and cultivated all around the world, so looks to be a very sustainable plant that can be used for a lot of tome to come! Apparently you can also take the flowers and distill them and yield many different similar frangrabt notes to many other things out there like tobacco, ambergris, good wine, tea, etc. There are also so many beneficial uses to this day too, that most people don’t know about! I would like to win Erawan as that one looks the most appealing to me with its notes of Hay, Clary Sage, Lily-of-the-Valley, Haitian Vetiver and Liatris, Vanilla, Oakmoss and Cedar. Erawan seems right up my alley, and a fragrance that I know I would thoroughly enjoy!! Thanks again!!

  • Salem says:

    I had missed reading a review by Elise. She is so knowledgeable, yet puts everything so simply and easy to follow and understand!
    I loved reading this article about clary sage, its origins, its uses and benefits and the methods of distillation / utilization in products of perfumery and not only. Such an underrated note, I should really get some pure clary sage oil for my diffuser and enjoy all it has to offer.
    My choice from the two would be ISSARA since according to the notes, tobacco is also prominent, and I even found out here that sage compliments it.
    I live in Europe. Thanks a lot!

  • andrasb says:

    I learned a lot about clary sage, I really did not know that it was used in perfumery. I love aromatic and fougere perfumes, but I don’t know either of the two from Dusita. I would love to win Issara. Romania, EU.

  • Paeonnia says:

    Great an informative article, so many of the information is new to me, from the medieval sage ale to uses of clary sage in aromatherapy.
    I’d like to win Issara.
    I’m in EU, Slovenia

  • juhah says:

    Thanks for the interesting article! I have a few frags with clary sage, I do think it brings out some tobacco-like facets. If I should win, Issara would be my choice. From Finland.

  • Laurentiu says:

    What an informative and complete article on clary sage! I enjoyed all the read and it was interesting to learn more about it, especially some of the technical chemical aspects of it like sclareol and ambrox.
    My pick is Issara.
    I am in EU, thank you for your generosity!

  • drjedi says:

    I enjoyed the description of clary sage and it’s aromatic and relaxing properties, along with the many beautiful pictures provided by Elise. I haven’t tried anything by Parfums Dusita, yet. I remember reading about the relaxing properties of clary sage once by Robert Tisserand, when he describes giving someone a massage with clary sage as one of the ingredients in massage oil, and how, after the massage, he himself collapsed as it was so relaxing to him too!!! That started my love affair with this herb. Daniel Krasofski’s note on clary sage use at Aveda was to the point and information. Thanks for the generous draw and the review. I’d love to win Issara, if I win this draw. Writing from the USA.

  • drjedi says:

    I enjoyed the description of clary sage and it’s aromatic and relaxing properties, along with the many beautiful pictures. I haven’t tried anything by Parfums Dusita, yet. I remember reading about the relaxing properties of clary sage once by Robert Tisserand, when he describes giving someone a massage with clary sage as one of the ingredients in massage oil, and how, after the massage, he himself collapsed as it was so relaxing to him too!!! That started my love affair with this herb. Daniel Krasofski’s note on clary sage use at Aveda was to the point and informative.

    I also learned that clary sage is used in classics such as Ma Griffe, Mitsuoko, Obsession, Shalimar, and Fougere Royale. Wasn’t aware of this before.

    Thanks for the generous draw and the review. I’d love to win Issara, if I win this draw. Writing from the USA.

  • QuentinMathieu says:

    I find Clary Sage very interesting as an ingredient. I myself use clary sage for smudging, although its scent can be a little disturbing (I do get the animalic/stinky aspects), it instantly provides a relaxing scent for the air. What I didn’t know is that clary sage is also good for treating irritated eyes. I will try it for sure! If I had to win this giveaway, I would opt for Erawan, which I find very unusual and unique in its genre, although always impeccable as all Dusita fragrances are! From Belgium (EU)

  • Bad Wolf says:

    I adore the clary sage note in a perfume, but finding out that it’s been used in Shalimar, Youthdew, and Mitsouko is a real surprise! I wonder what they would smell like without it….

    My own Issara bottle is ending, so I’d be happy to get a replacement if I win (I have to admit that it is a tough choice: Erawan is a unique, beautiful perfume, I’ve never smelled anything quite like it).

    I’m from Russia

  • doveskylark says:

    I didn’t know that clary sage is grown in my home state, North Carolina. I had no idea it was called Oriental Tobacco. I am going to look into clary sage as a remedy for eye troubles. Elise’s article also made me think back to the late 90s, when I was obsessed with Aveda. I miss their perfumes and massage and body products from that time. I can still remember the way the shops smelled back then.
    I would choose Erawan.
    I live in the USA.

  • rih says:

    I have only just begun to encounter Clary Sage as a note in the perfumes I’m seeking out, and so far I love it, but I didn’t know anything at all about it! I love the idea that it has euphoric effects and is too potent to be combined with alcohol ahaha. I had a chance to smell both Issara and Erawan, and while both are lovely I can’t stop thinking about Erawan and would love the chance to own it. I’m in Maine, USA, thank you for running such a generous draw!

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I was interested to learn about the difference between clary sage and other varieties I think of as standard cooking sage. I’d also never seen the plants and flowers or heard about the way it evokes ambregris. Thanks for this generous draw! I’d love to win Issara–a favorite scent of mine. I live in the US.

  • theEfat7 says:

    This is such a fascinating read – I was especially intrigued by clary sage’s spiritual connotations and its effects in the body. The chemical properties not just associated with the scent of the herb make the fragrances so much richer and more meaningful. I’m from New York, and I would love to try Erawan, as it has been on my wishlist for as long as I’ve been a collector.

  • aurora_ru says:

    Very interesting information! For me clary sage smells more similar to ambergris than tobacco. Would be happy to win Issara. Thank you, I am from the EU.

  • alexmradulescu says:

    Repost from my cafleurebon.com account. Ignore the one from Alexandru-Matei Radulescu

    Clary sage essential oil has always had for me a cigar-box-like and animalic-leathery dimension for me, aside from the obvious herbal one and this very educational article provided an explanation for that, by mentioning the derivatives of sclareol which give rise to tobacco-like and ambery-animalic aroma compounds. I would definitely want to win Erawan, because I have never smelled a proper hay-like fragrance, and smelling flowery, green dry hay in the summers is one of the most distinctive and happy olfactive memories I have. Also, I am constantly searching for a fougère I would love and Pissara’s artistic sensibility, in conjunction the heartfelt homage to her father’s poetry through scent, make me think Erawan is the right down my alley, being THE fougère for me!

    I live in the Netherlands.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    This article was so informative concerning clary sage, with its many applications/versatility. As far as its application to perfumery, I learned that it has a chameleon-like olfactory profile, smelling like wood, tobacco, oakmoss, and ambergris, depending on the nose. This happens after Clary Sage’s constituent, Sclareol, is extracted from the spent material after distillation, then chemically manipulated into sclareolide.

    Choosing between Issara and Erawan was very, very hard, but, I have to go with Erawan.

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • Jos says:

    Love this draw and really enjoyed the review! Would definitely go for Erawan. Would really love to try that, good luck everyone. Living in the EU

  • LadyoftheOakenForest says:

    It’s an ingredient I didn’t rrally pay much attention too, but now looked back at some of my perfume to see if it’s there, and too few indeed have it, I think I need to leatn a bit more about it and try to sniff it in more compositions to pin down the elusive note.
    I would be happy with either, althoush Issara speaks to me a bit more. I’m based in the UK.

  • Hemda says:

    Very interesting to know it’s usage flavoring tobbaco and wine. I love clary sage aroma and I would love to visit a field full of pink clary sage flowers someday. If I win, my choise is Erawan. Thank you.
    Mexico.

  • einsof says:

    i remember my first time with clary; in high school massaging clary into my shins before a run- no one warned of the quite literal euphoria of your first time with clary. she did nothing for my shin splints but has always made the run a good one. just be forewarned, this is an experience which will not last.

    beautiful!

  • Vahagn says:

    So many interesting facts about clary sage- especially about using in medicine and perfumery! I never knew it was a member of the mint family. We use it in our national cuisine,
    I have heard so many amazing reviews about Pissara and her perfumes. I find Issara beautiful and would like to win Issara.
    I am from Armenia.

  • Eirik H. says:

    What an amazing, engaging read! I never knew the full history behind clary sage and its multitudinous uses. It was interesting to learn that ambrox is derived from clary sage as well. So clearly, the plant is beneficial in many ways. I would love to win Erawan, it’s such a unique, transportive fragrance. Many thanks and warm regards to Pissara and Dusita Parfums for such generosity!

  • jfmurphy says:

    Hello,

    I learned that while not everyone appreciates the smell of sage flowers, it holds many secrets, and has a vast aray of uses and is incredibly versatile, and has played a role in classic scents. I’m in Canada, and interested in Erawan.

  • zhiang0113 says:

    I learned about the olfactory differences between clary sage essential oil and absolute from this article! I have the EO but not the absolute, and was not aware that there was a significant difference in the olfactory characteristics between the two, thank you for shedding some light in this comprehensive article.

    I live in the UK, and would love to try Erawan!

  • audesko1 says:

    Interesting reading about Clary Sage. I didnt realize that shalimar and youth dew have this in it. Those are some of my favorite fragrances in the vintage world of scents. I love Dusita fragrance, Issara would be my choice. Thank you. USA, California

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Some say it hints of ambergris, for others it is the smell of tobacco. It is dryly herbaceous but sweetly so, it may be a bit floral, definitely with hints of tea or balsam, but also completely unique. Clary sage is one of those essential oils that makes itself known as soon as you open the bottle, filling the room with its fragrance. Somewhere in that complex and unique fragrance is the scent of euphoria. If we climb the family tree we find that clary sage is in the mint family, Lamiaceae, which may have been named after the mythical creatures called Lamia, monstrous women with hindquarters of a serpent or beast who devoured children and young men. Going higher we find that it is also a sage and a member of the genus Salvia, possibly from the Latin salvere which means to be well and healthy. The species name is sclarea, again from Latin, and meaning clear. Its use in medicines goes back to Pliny the Elder and Dioscorides in the 1st century and it has a long history of clearing and healing sore eyes. I was curious to learn about clary sage. If I am successful I would love to win Issara. Dusita is a house that I am not familiar with but I am intrigued nonetheless. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    With long and hairy leaves, the plant grows to 3-4 feet with stems that are square and also hairy. Flowers are borne in long colorful bracts with a uniquely-shaped sage-type flower. Clary sage is native to areas of the northern Mediterranean, North Africa, and central Asia but is cultivated in central Europe, Russia, England, Italy, Morocco, and North America.In perfumery, Clary Sage Absolute is a great modifier ingredient in fragrance families such as Chypre, Fougere, Aldehydics, Colognes, Oriental, Amber Perfumes as well as fine soaps. In small quantities it could be found in classic perfumes like Shalimar, Fougere Royale, Obsession, Youthdew and Mitsouko. According to the master perfumer Jean Carles, Clary Sage is effective in Chypre accords, most likely it was included in his brilliant perfume of yesteryear Ma Griffe.” An excellent piece I am intrigued by clary sage. Dusita is a house that I am familiar with but I have not yet delved into. If I am lucky to win I would love it if I won Erawan. Thanks from the UK

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    Great article, full of fabulous wisdom around Clary sage, long held as one of my favorite oils to use in my aromatherapy days. Its clarity and deep herbaceousness have always uplifted and drawn me in. the reference to Ma Griffe struck a chord as it was my very first perfume and holds a special place in my memories. I loved to read about the uses of Clary Sage in alcoholic beverages historically but still in use today of course in concoctions produced by monastic institutions for medicinal and social purpose. I would choose Issara and I live in France. Merci beaucoup.

  • Princess Anna says:

    I’m so mesmerized by Dusita fragrances that I cannot put into words. I only know them through descriptions, but I think this is the House I’m most curious about. I love the fragrances combinations and their stories, which fascinate me. I would love to try Issara. I live in Bucharest, Romania

  • Barber82 says:

    Few times already I’ve mentioned on Cafleurebon, I’m a big believer in herbology, and clary sage i know very, very well.
    I was not aware perfume companies use it to make substitute for ambergris, good to know . The other information I’m aware of.
    Now I want to point out a few things
    “you may find the characteristic aroma of a dry sweet herb, tea, good wine, tobacco, and ambergris”
    I don’t think the smell is sweet , and definitely not like wine. You could add clary sage to wine , but it does not smell like wine to begin with.
    “We now know clary sage also has euphoric effects and should not be used before driving or operating machinery. It should definitely not be combined with alcohol, thus perhaps the headaches and severe intoxication.”
    100% truth
    Clary sage do have a lot of benefits for your immune system, it’s antiseptic, helps if you have herpes , rashes and so on. On the other hand clary sage do have side effects , some unpleasant , and if you don’t know what you’re doing it could even damage your health!
    About the wine thing, some people still adding it to different kinds of alcohol beverages, because they think it makes the beverage more potent, that’s actually NOT true! Mixed with alcohol in higher doses, it actually gives the user ecstasy effect, yes the mix could get you high.
    It also reduces blood pressure, so don’t even drink crary sage tea if you’re about to drive, or work with dangerous machines.
    It should NOT be used by pregnant women or nursing mothers. If you use sedatives, or meds for thyroid issues, it amplifies greatly the effects of both. Also if you have bad stomach, gastritis and especially ulcer, NEVER drink clary sage tea.
    Not sure it’s my favorite Parfums Dusita fragrance , because only know one , but Splendiris is a top quality scent. Saw a video on YouTube of Mr. Yara reviewing it , and got a sample from Luckyscent with one of my purchases. I personally really like it, but you have to like waxy scents to be found of it.
    Issara please
    Thanks Pissara , Elise and Cafleurebon for the chance.
    USA

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review Elise.

    I love the Clary Sage note and one of my favourite vintage fougeres – Paco Rabanne Pour Homme features it’s herbal and intense greenness in an audacious fashion.

    I actually never realized that Clary Sage would be used to flavour foods/soups and stews as well as beverages. For some reason, I’ve only thought about it from an olfactive lens.

    I would not mind wining either bottle. So far I am leaning towards Erawan, but Issara looks equally appealing.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • xoe says:

    I’ve been interested in clary sage for a while but I did not know that it was used for ale in the middle ages. That sounds pretty intense. If I won, I would choose Issara. Kansas, USA.

  • aud604 says:

    I would love to try Erawan. Sage is such a fantastic smell – when utilized correctly in a perfume it adds such a ritualistic feeling. I learned that it can lower blood pressure from this review! Thanks again, from Canada

  • Gig84 says:

    I don’t have experience with clary sage, all I know is Sebastian once said it smells like mix of dry tea , and tobacco leaves. Reading about it in such details was really interesting.
    The way Elise described the herb , both as fragrance ingredient and for its health benefits makes me think both Erawan , and Issara would be calming and relaxing fragrances , capable of putting me in a zen mode.
    Working too much lately , and I need a Zen fragrance , so bottle of Erawan would be a dream come true .
    Thank you all
    USA most of the year, and Germany from time to time

  • Trina says:

    Clary Sage is an ingredient I read about but didn’t know too much of. There was so much fascinating information especially that it has been used so long ago to clear eyes and can open the third eye. I also enjoyed the references to its complex of odour. I would like to win Issara
    I live in the USA

  • Ashfaque says:

    I didn’t know about it’s contribution in imparting a ‘complex nuances of wood’ in compositions. Now feeling like sitting with my oils to experiment. Also, I did not know about the culinary uses of clary sage. Learnt something new. Thank for you that and the lovely exposition on this humble plant. I should mention two things:
    (1) It is also cultivated in the Subcontinent
    (2) A minute point: The illustration by Pissara, used above, is depicting liatrix , not clary sage.

    I’d love to win an Issara bottle. Thank you for the opportunity. (UK and Bangladesh)

  • Kyuu says:

    Ahh i could only dream of having a Dusita. Oud infini gets all the love. Moonlight in changmai the new release sounds so good as well. Now I get to learn some of them have healing benefits? Wow. Thanks for the opportunity. Iowa, USA.

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    I had no idea sage had all of these uses! I’ve only known it for cooking and for ridding bad mojo. I’m curious to know the differences between clary sage and the every day sage I grown in my summer garden. I’m more familiar with my garden variety and love to let it go to flower. I’d love to win a bottle of Issara because I love the tobacco nuances of clary sage. Thank you for the informative essay and for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • wandering_nose says:

    What an amazingly informative review! I absolutely love it and am so grateful. The versatility of clary sage is astonishing, its use in medicine, food and tobacco industries and in perfumery calls for naming it magical, which it already is if it can clear both the physical and mental aspects of the body. I am happy to know it has been used in perfumes I love so much: Shalimar, Mitsouko, Youth Dew. To choose between the two perfumes kindly offered by Pissara was an excruciating task, but I feel Erawan would be closer to my heart. Based in Ireland. Thank you for the amazing read and for the generous draw!

  • commodity says:

    Interesting to know that clary sage actually has so many benefits – both physiological and psychological! It is amazing to know that it actually can help fight depression and paranoia.
    I would love to win Issara.
    Living in Hong Kong.

  • IvanVelikov says:

    I’m well passed the times of headaches and severe intoxications 🙂 Way more interesting to me was learning more about clary sage being
    ambergris substitute , the aromatic variety Oriental Tobacco and of course all different ways it could smell – tobacco , hay , floral and so on.
    Out of the two Erawan and Issara I know one.Saw a few YouTube reviews, and articles on Cafleurebon and finally decided to pull the trigger , when I found out you can get 7.5 ml Parfums Dusita travel sprays. Erewan was my choice because I’ve been to Erawan National Park, and the enigmatic Erawan waterfall, and also to Erawan Museum in Bangkok.Since the fragrance was made to emulate the whole Erawan experience, the result of Pissara work is just magical.
    Since i have Erawan 7.5ml travel sprayer, I’m leaning more towards bottle of Issara.
    Wonderful draw , Elise did a great job too.
    USA , rarely Paris France

  • Michael Prince says:

    I loved learning about Clary Sage and how it’s used in perfume. Clary sage can be inspirational and uplifting, fighting depression and paranoia, and occasionally working its aphrodisiacal magic.  Like most fragrance notes Clary Sage can come of smelling differently based on what part of the plant is used and how it’s extracted. If I won the giveaway I would pick Issara. A more masculine fougere type offering that would appeal more to me. I am from the USA.

  • Jannick85 says:

    I knew very little about clary sage so it was interesting to learn about it’s history and different properties, and I would choose Issara

    from Denmark

  • WaltherP99 says:

    Pure pleasure to read
    No idea how clary sage absolute and essential oil smell , but the green leafs we used to chew as kids, and the smell and taste is like a mix of mint and lime peel. Maybe due processing the smell changes ?
    I didn’t know clary sage was precursor to ambroxan and all similar derivatives.
    As a teetotaller the alcohol part was not so intriguing to me.
    I have smelled all Parfums Dusita fragrances, except Moonlight In Chiangmai , and I have to say this brand is unique. Erawan to me is the best Dusita fragrance, not counting Moonlight In Chiangmai of course , because I do not know it.It is really unique. Starts green , but soon after big wave of chocolate is coming. I feel like I’m sitting in the middle of a hey field , on my left side there’s fresh cut lumber, but on my right side there’s a huge pot of melted high quality Belgian chocolate.
    So summarize, Erawan is closer to the green facets of clary sage, and Issara to tobacco once.
    If I have to rate my personal favorite Parfums Dusita fragrances:
    1. Erawan
    2. Issara
    3. La Douceur de Siam
    What a great draw , thank you. Erawan would be great
    Virginia USA, or London UK at least 97/100 times

  • DespinaVnt says:

    It was fascinating reading about the therapeutic properties of this multifaceted natural ingredient, I wasn’t aware it can positively affect hormone levels, and help ameliorate hair and skin.
    I’d love to win either Parfums Dusita fragrance, but Issara would probably be my first choice.
    Thank you, best from France (EU).

  • immortano26 says:

    What a great article. Thats something new. I am auite familiar with clary sage, it’s quite popular in Poland. It has a bright side but dark as well. It’s quite similar to marihuana – it can be used for medical purposes healing and helping with a lot od diseases, but may be dangerous when used improperly. We are speaking about fragrance usage here and about that I am extremely interested. I just love it’s similarity to tobacco, because it is one of my favourite notes. Green tea is also great. It definately interesting note, very flexible and I think it will be used quite a lot in perfumes industry in the future. Poland, EU. Good luck everyone

  • valentina says:

    to be honest, I already knew almost everything about clary sage because I am a pharmacognozist. I would very much like to war Issara, I m sure it is a spectacular perfume, as all Dusitas are. I lie in Romania

  • petergigov says:

    Big corporation trying to gain control of tobacco and clarysage, and monopoly over the market , nothing new 60 years later. Late 2020 corporations are even greedier.
    Severe intoxications in not my favorite way to end up my nights out, i also would not experiment with clary sage to potentially help me with high blood pressure.
    The most important part of Elise take on clary sage, was fragrance related, the way it smells in perfumery – tobacco, tea , balsamic.
    Briefly smelled Splendiris, other than that Parfums Dusita I’m not familiar with.
    Issara I’ll enjoy more in the winter, because except for clary sage, there’s tonka and tobacco in it.
    Exiting giveaway.USA
    Regards

  • diode31 says:

    I definitively didn’t know about the euphoric effects of clary sage (and the recommendation to not consume it before driving or operating machinery !) And also its use as PMS soothing sounds interesting to me.
    I’m interested in Erawan and I live in Romania (EU).
    Thanks for the article !

  • smm13 says:

    I didn’t know much about clary sage so I learned quite a bit. Having lived in North Carolina, the connection to tobacco and that state resonated most with me, but I also found the mind and body benefits intriguing. I would like to win Issara. I live in the USA.

  • teebear says:

    This was a fascinating read! I went to a perfume making workshop once and wound up alongside a woman who was OBSESSED with Clary sage and said it was in her favorite perfume but that it had been reformulated. Her efforts to recreate it were not as successful as she may have wished but the hunt seemed exciting!

    It was really interesting hearing the difference between the scent of the raw flowers/leaves and how processing them for perfumery changes the scent profile!

    I would love to try Erewan, I have another hay-forward perfume I love (Zoologist Sloth) that I was nervous about initially but it has become an addiction!

    In Canada.

    Thank you to Pissara for her generosity and for this article! I would love to read more articles like this that focus on specific perfumery ingredients and how they’re used and distilled.