Christian Dior Bois d’Argent, Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche on the roof of the famous Franck Gehry-designed Fondation Louis-Vuitton – Fondation roof ©Emmanuelle Varron, bottles ©Christian Dior, collage, montage and design ©Emmanuelle Varron.

On October 8, 2021, Francis Kurkdjian was named Creative Director of Christian Dior Parfums, one of the most prestigious positions in the world. For months several perfumers’ names circulated, but Francis Kurkdjian often came up among the favorites, which thrilled me. I had the chance to meet him in 2003 (a French magazine wanted to organize a joint interview between him and pastry chef Pierre Hermé, for whom I was then the Public Relations representative) and we noticed that we had many common passions…  fragrance included of course! Since then, I have followed his remarkable career (not only founder of his own brand in 2009, Francis Kurkdjian is also president of the International Society of Perfumers-Creators and since 2019 of Per Fumum, an endowment fund).

Francis Kurkdjian – ©Julia Noni for Christian Dior Parfums.

Francis Kurkdjian’s background ticked all the boxes: creator of numerous best-sellers for the mainstream (Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male, Narcisso Rodriguez For Her), founder and perfumer of Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2009 (including the famous Baccarat Rouge 540, one of the biggest commercial successes of recent years), but also author of collaborations with major luxury brands (Burberry, Carven, Elie Saab) or more intimate ones with famous contemporary artists, Francis Kurkdjian is a real chameleon. And to be at the artistic head of Christian Dior Parfums, LVMH could only choose someone who knows how to adapt to a varied clientele, creating perfumes that echo the greatest number, while being able to compose fragrances that meet to the standard of ultimate luxury.

But once the announcement of his appointment was made, a question quickly arose: what would be Francis Kurkdjian first creation for Christian Dior, a brand known for its multiple year-long releases, both in its “luxury” branch and the Collection Privée? Even the most talented perfumer needs time: time to adapt to a new team, time to fit into internal processes and time to get acquainted to new suppliers of raw materials, so that his first olfactory work truly symbolizes the cultural turning point, while respecting the the brand DNA. But remember, two of the three Colognes launched in 2004 by Hedi Slimane, then Creative Director of Christian Dior (and that initiated the famous Collection Privée) were composed by Francis Kurkdjian: Christian Dior Cologne Blanche and Christian Dior Eau Noire, Christian Dior Bois d’Argent being created by Annick Menardo. Why not relaunching these legendary perfumes? And actually, the request was immediately made to him by many fans once his appointment was formalized.

  

Francis Kurkdjian ©Julia Noni for Christian Dior Parfums – Annick Menardo ©Symrise.

I had very few crushes when it comes to perfume. When I say “crushes”, I mean buying within the hour a fragrance that I’ve just tried on my skin: a few bad experiences have taught me to be wary of first good impressions… just as my olfactory maturity encourages me not to close the door to an inconclusive first attempt. But I have not forgotten the one I had that famous year 2004 for Christian Dior Eau Noire. Immediate. Notable. Unexpected. At that time, I was a loyal customer of Serge Lutens and Frédéric Malle and moving further and further away from the perfumes that I was likely to smell on many people. But unluckily, I had just relocated to the south of France, in a city where niche perfumery was non-existent. It was during my first stay in Paris as a “tourist” that I discovered the famous trilogy in the legendary Colette store, renowned for bringing together the rarest and most trendy products in the capital.

 

Christian Dior Eau Noire 2004 version – ©DR

I remember I tested the three colognes on mouillettes and not being able to take my nose off that of Christian Dior Eau Noire. So, I tried it on my skin and got a second shock: I had the impression of going into hitherto unknown universes, where aromatic notes could be sweet and a bit gourmand. If I remember,  Christian Dior Eau Noire was only available in a 125 ml version, far too big for me, but love at first sniff was there, and the olfactory desert during the past months in Perpignan pushed me to do this madness and buy it. I have never regretted it, and even less when it became difficult to find it in stores, little by little put away in the famous drawers where the brand groups the references that are a little indented.

Christian Dior Cologne Blanche, Bois d’Argent and Eau Noire have just been released in 40 ml bottle version, in a limited edition set – ©Christian Dior

“La Trilogie Initiale” (the Initial trilogy) box and its three 40 ml bottles marks a real reset. A new era seems to have begun at Christian Dior Parfums, with much anticipation from perfumistas. This back to the future is like a starting point towards a direction only known by Francis Kurkdjian and his team, and to keep us waiting with three creations that have marked the aesthetic and olfactory history of the brand. Francis Kurkdjian did not wish to reformulate the three Colognes (with a tiny exception which I will explain below), stopped using artificial colorings and chose ingredients which, according to their origin and their quality, can explain some new nuances for the most seasoned noses compared to the 2004 versions. Christian Dior Parfums works with 12 farmers, thus forging exclusive partnerships for exceptional raw materials: a real apprenticeship for the Director of Perfume Creation, who has been discovering a new range of skills these last months, “As a pianist working on a new piano”, confides the classical music lover.

 

Christian Dior Cologne Blanche focuses on orange blossom – bottle, orange blossom and background ©Christian Dior Parfums, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

 

Christian Dior Cologne Blanche (Francis Kurkdjian):   Truthfully, I have only a vague memory of the first edition. Christian Dior Cologne Blanche is an ode to sweetness. The opening is dynamic, with a tangy and aromatic trio with bergamot, orange and rosemary. But very quickly the powdery and gourmet takes over, creating an almost regressive cocoon fragrance. Orange blossom takes center stage here, reinforced with almond and vanilla notes. Closing my eyes, I imagine myself in Marie-Antoinette’s living room (as she is presented in Sofia Coppola’s film), surrounded by her mischievous ladies-in-waiting, tasting delicious macaroons. The most “true cologne” of the trilogy.

Official notes: orange blossom absolute and essence, violet accord, amber.
Additional perceived notes: bergamot, orange, rosemary, vanilla.

Christian Dior Bois d’Argent focuses on iris – bottle, iris and background ©Christian Dior Parfums, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

 Christian Dior Bois d’Argent (Annick Menardo): This fragrance is one of Dior’s best-sellers. Composed by Annick Menardo who was then working for Firmenich (she is now at Symrise), it is based on Hedi Slimane’s love of iris (found in Dior Homme 2005 version or as a common thread in his Céline Haute Parfumerie collection) accompanied by a dizzying incense that balms over the minutes and plays on a register where mystery and sensuality go hand in hand. Rather soft-virile, it sticks to the skin, playing on the powdery register while acting as a macho. Christian Dior Bois d’Argent always reminds me of Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire, who would have been its best ambassador. That iris-incense duo marked a turning point in perfumery and today makes it one of the most popular fragrances in the world. Moreover, it is impossible to escape THE question: some fans noticed that years after years Christian Dior Bois d’Argent had lost some of its 2004 superb. So… Does the 2022 version promise a return to its origins? This is what the people around me, and who have been wearing it since its launch, seem to agree with.

Official notes: iris absolute, frankincense, amber.
Additional perceived notes: juniper, myrrh, patchouli, honey, musk, benzoin.

Christian Dior Eau Noire focuses on lavender – bottle, lavender and background ©Christian Dior Parfums, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Christian Dior Eau Noire (Francis Kurkdjian): Last but not least with my greatest expectation (and that of many perfumistas): Christian Dior Eau Noire is back in the spotlight! Having unfortunately lost my original bottle during a relocation, I had no more than a vague memory of its full olfactory palette. It was a few weeks ago, during a sniffing session with vintage fragrance collector friends, that I was able to compare the two versions. Francis Kurkdjian is transparent: if the two previous Colognes had their formula unchanged, Christian Dior Eau Noire was entitled to a small evolution concerning the lavender which went from 5% to 4.95%. A difference that may seem minimal, but which rebalances the composition by giving more room to other raw materials.

The magic is still present today. I find this 2022 Christian Dior Eau Noire more sophisticated and mature compared to the one I bought 18 years ago. The licorice is less thunderous and leaves more room for a woody lavender re-chiseled by its author. The myrrh becoming rounder, the aromatic facet brought by thyme and clary sage gives more radiance while keeping a part of mystery, as if I had lost myself in the undergrowth after a storm. I also perceive a coffee note which again stands out much more compared to the original version. I thought I would be troubled by the moss green-to-light honey color change of Christian Dior Eau Noire, but it was never the case. In the end, visual perception only has a very short-lived power over my sense of smell!

Official notes: lavender essence and absolute, myrrh.
Additional perceived notes: clary sage, thyme, coffee, liquorice, vanilla.

I can’t wait to discover Francis Kurkdjian first “new” launch as Christian Dior Perfume Creative Director. Stay tuned as it will take place next year.

Disclaimer: A huge “merci” to Christian Dior for the  Limited Edition”La Trilogie Initiale” box provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor

My tribute to Christian Dior “La Trilogie Initiale” a vintage Christian Dior travel bag with its famous burgundy Oblique Jacquard? ©Emmanuelle Varron

 Christian Dior Trilogie Initiale limited series box is available on Christian Dior’s website.

The appointment of Francis Kurkdjian to Creative Director was Michelyn’s and Ermano’s BEST BUZZ of 2021

Are you looking forward to a new era for Christian Dior Parfums spearheaded by Francis Kurkdjian? Of the three Emmanuelle write about which are you the most excited to try?

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