Quentin Bisch in his office at Givaudan – Paris, October 2018 (Photo: Despina Veneti)©
A couple of weeks ago in Paris I interviewed perfumer Quentin Bisch in his office at Givaudan (full interview coming soon in our site!), wearing Ungaro Diva. At the end of our enjoyable talk we smelled his latest creations together; Diva revealed my love for chypres, and he proposed that I tried on a scent of which he was especially proud, as he said. Chloé Nomade instantly appealled to this chypre girl, causing joy to the perfumer (Quentin's enthusiastic “you smell good!”, as we were walking around the building, is highly indicative of his genuine – and endearing – happiness when smelling his creations on others!)
Chloe Nomade ad (Courtesy of Chloe Fragrances/Coty Luxury)©
Nomade is a high-quality and innovative (it contains 7 brand-new Givaudan-created ingredients) neo-chypre, not to mention a rather unexpected addition to Chloé’s traditionally soft-floral fragrant offerings. Unlike the house's previous feminine releases, this one would be very easy for men to wear, as well.
Chloe Nomade’s most prominent ingredients (Photo collage: Despina Veneti)©
Nomade opens with a blast of several kinds of citrus, which altogether resemble more of a grapefruit note. The delightful mirabelle (a sweet, highly aromatic, sunny-yellow French plum) soon takes over, finding good company in the juicy peach and the emerging floral heart (most notably a mature, powdery rose and a delicate, but prominent freesia). The oakmoss soon declares its presence, providing a mossy undercurrent. Within the hour the musk kicks in, giving a softer subtext to the oakmoss; as a result the latter feels more balsamic and herbal, than earthy. As the hours pass, the scent becomes fruitier and drier in an increasingly abstract way, but still beautiful for a good 3-4 hours more. After that comes a very long drydown – my least favorite stage of the scent's evolution – where the mossy and musky base dominates, devoid of the succulent fruits and florals; however, after so many hours, one needs only re-apply the fragrance to experience again its enjoyable olfactory evolution.
The Chloe Nomade bottle surrounded by the Chloe Drew bag and a vintage water flask (Photo collage: Despina Veneti)©
The fragrance is hosted in a bottle inspired by the famous Chloe Drew bag, although it also reminds me of vintage water flasks. Its unusual shape, golden details, pink suede cord and pretty finish make it a stunner to have and to hold.
Ariane Labed, the face of Chloe Nomade (Photos courtesy of Chloé Fragrances/Coty Luxury)©
The face of the perfume is Athens-born, rising French actress Ariane Labed, and the whole promotional campaign is simple, yet one of the most tasteful (and relevant to the scent) ones I've seen lately. A beautiful young woman, with the wind in her hair, enjoys the surroundings and interactions with locals during a trip to breathtaking, sand-dune territories.
Chloe Nomade ad, Ariane Labed pictured (Courtesy of Chloé Fragrances/Coty Luxury)©
Although it distantly echoes classic chypres like Guerlain Mitsouko (sans the spices) or Rochas Femme (with less overtly feminine character), Chloé Nomade is a totally modern take on the chypre genre; its fresh, airy opening, its delightful fruitiness and subtle florals, and its mildly mossy base evoke the changes of scenery during a long voyage. The feeling of being enveloped by a shifting scented breeze, and the longing for travelling when I close my eyes and smell it, are further proof of the intelligence and mastery behind its creation. I look forward to trying the scent in all seasons, for I suspect it will perform in a chameleon-like manner.
Nomade is airy yet deep, tomboyish yet sensual – a scent in motion. The notion of the joy of travelling is masterfully instilled into the scent. I fully understand why its creator feels especially proud of it…
Top Notes: Mirabelle, Bergamot, Lemon, Orange. Middle Notes: Freesia, Rose, Jasmine, Peach. Base Notes: Oakmoss, Amberwood, Patchouli, Sandalwood, White Musk.
Disclaimer: I would like to thank Quentin Bisch and Givaudan for my sample. The opinions are my own.
– Despina Veneti, Contributor
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