Chatillon Lux Envoi (Shawn Maher) 2024 + The Grace of Gardenia Giveaway

Envoi by Chatillon Lux

Chatillon Lux Envoi

It is my usual custom to tentatively request a very small sample of a new fragrance from a perfumer (with whom I have established a relationship) when I become aware of its presence; at other times, perfumers have kindly offered me samples of their recent work unbidden. This instance is different: I decided to order a sample of Chatillon Lux’s new Envoi eau de toilette as soon as I heard of it, and I am very glad that I did. It had been awhile since I’d experienced some of Shawn Maher’s more recent offerings, and I strive to support small businesses whenever possible – especially when the perfumers are both extremely talented and fine individuals. I had no idea how profoundly Chatillon Lux Envoi would affect me, to my unfeigned delight. Yet another surprise: Envoi may be classified by the perfumer as an eau de toilette, but it possesses a marvelous potency and sillage which belie that categorization. And what of the name? Envoi resounded in Shawn Maher’s consciousness: it is the final, brief stanza which concludes a poem, often explanatory. To quote our perfumer, “This gardenia could be seen as a poem of life, and throughout nature, in the autumnal season, beauty and splendor are often at its height, at its most sweet, right before it concedes to the winter season.”

Shawn Maher of Chatillon Lux

Shawn Maher of Chatillon Lux

Artisanal perfumer Shawn Maher is a native Missourian, and his fragrances are inspired by his environs and their history. When a nose treads this path, they fling open a window onto a domain which may have eluded most of us; it’s a potentially illuminating experience.  Chatillon Lux Envoi was inspired by a visit to the Missouri Botanical Gardens’ Climatron® – the first geodesic dome ever to be used as a conservatory. Over 1,400 tropical plants flourish in this rarified, nurturing microclimate. The pride of St. Louis, it first opened to the public in the autumn of 1960. Designed by St. Louis architects Murphy and Mackey, the Climatron won the 1961 Reynolds Award for architectural excellence in a structure using aluminum.

Missouri Botanical Gardens via wiki

 By 1976 it was named one of the 100 most significant architectural achievements in United States history.  It was here that Shawn Maher became enthralled as he followed the lifecycle of one particular Mexican gardenia, from its nascent bloom until its eventual decline into an inevitable divine decay. Through the employment of a gas chromatography-mass spectrometer, our perfumer sought to wrest the covert elements which exalt the complex grace of the gardenia.

Gardenia via Unsplash

Gardenia’s voluptuous floralcy is underpinned by an unctuous creamy quality, accented by spicy elements redolent of clove and nutmeg, a scintilla of vanilla. The inclusion of a host of materials which evoke a honeyed rose, bergamot, and a whisper of tuberose served to round out its evocative bloom in full profusion. After all, he is re-creating what he smelt at the time – which did not include a customary bleu cheese/mushroom accord. Envoi achieves its balance due to Shawn’s serene handling of supporting base accords, utilizing the lightest of patchoulis, and cedar tones rendered airy. The delicate touch of bitter almond is a coup, with its aroma reminiscent of cherry and marzipan: it’s a form of olfactory seasoning which imparts a playful lightness and charm. In combination with radiant, diffusive musks, Envoi takes on a much more shimmering quality than it might have if the perfumer had chosen to play to the heavier, more indolent facets of the flower. And coffee bean? It’s brilliant, contributing depth and more than a little mystery to the entire composition: if this is part of Shawn’s perception of the graceful gardenia, more power to him. Envoi, in his hands, has acquired a unique loveliness which resembles absolutely nothing currently available in today’s pantheon of perfumery. Is it gourmand? Possibly. Is it floral? Definitely. More importantly, is Envoi wearable, enjoyable, and distinctive? Beyond a doubt. It’s that rarity – a fragrance which ensnares you further each time you smell it. Bravo, Shawn Maher!

Notes: Gardenia, bitter almond, spice, coffee bean oil, patchouli, cedar wood (Iso E Super), musks

Sample purchased from the perfumer. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Chatillon Lux Envoi

Chatillon Lux Envoi

Thanks to Shawn Maher of Chatillon Lux we have a draw for a 2.oz bottle of Envoi. To be eligible you must be a registered reader(register here) in the USA. You must be registered, or your comment will not count. To be eligible please leave a comment on this site with what strikes you about Ida’s’ review and where you live. Draw closes 12/9/2024

SUPPORT OUR ARTISAN PERFUMERS AND BUY DIRECTLY FROM THEIR SITE

There is still time to take advantage of the  Chatillon Lux special sale here. Please read Shawn Maher’s Profile In American Perfumery here. Shawn Maher and Chatillon Lux/Maher Olfactive was Michelyn’s Best Artisan perfumer and perfume house of 2020

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15 comments

  • Ramses Perez says:

    A floral fragrance with lots of gourmand touches? Sign me up. I am not sure why men are afraid of florals but done correctly (with gourmand touches) it can be a beautiful creation which is what I think Envoi represents. I personally don’t mind if a fragrance is EDT or EDP, if it smells good, I’ll take it and it sounds like Envoi performs despite its classification. Ida is so right in persuading us to support indie houses as they’re usually the ones coming up with the newest obsessions and the quality is unmatched. To many more Chatillons! I’m located in the USA.

  • Ginny M says:

    I always make time for Ida’s writing: I can smell everything she describes!
    The notes sound amazing—coffee bean? Musk? Sign me up!

  • Baseeta says:

    I find the use of almond, cedar, and coffee with gardenia fascinating! I would love to get this under my nose. I am in the U.S. and registered everywhere. Thanks for this opportunity!

  • Helenka says:

    I love the fragrance of gardenia. I had a beautiful gardenia bush as a teenager. And also a rosebush. My family owned a florist shop, which is where my love of perfume was born.

  • Eris.can.swatch.kaos says:

    To develop a wearable gardenia which includes a coffee oil note sounds nearly unbelievable. I’m heavily intrigued. I am having a hard time imagining what this would smell like, I have no real point of reference based on the note breakdown. I will put this on the must sample list, near the top! I live in Oregon.

  • Renee says:

    I was curious if I could get the essence of the fragrance in a read. As I was reading , and already had taken not of the Gardenia, I began to actually smell the gardenia. I personally have two plants . I love them. Still I giggled because I really thought i was smelling some facet of the fragrance. Thanks for making it not only a good read but an experience.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    This sounds fantastic. I have loved gardenias forever and have the best memories of walking up the porch at my grandparents house and smelling them. Sadly they do not grow in the pacific NW (I’ve tried and failed). I love that the patchouli is light. That touch of coffee is interesting. Every vacation I take we look for botanical gardens which started when our daughter was young and traveling with us. She is grown, but my husband and I continue to search out botanical gardens everywhere. Looks like I need to go to Missouri. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • opalbear says:

    Gardenia is such a classic! I can only imagine how much Shawn Maher can bring forth her beauty. It’s a stroke of genius to combine those notes and I fully trust he can not just pull it off but make it addicting! I’m super excited to try this! Thank you for the generous give away.
    I am in the USA

  • opalbear says:

    Gardenia is such a classic! I can only imagine how much Shawn Maher can bring forth her beauty. It’s a stroke of genius to combine those notes and I fully trust he can not just pull it off but make it addicting! I’m super excited to try this! Thank you for the generous give away.
    I am in the USA

  • zibbyz says:

    How have I never heard of the Climatron? I grew up on the Midwest, tho to be fair, we did not spend much time in St Louis…. I do enjoy gardenia, and this version sounds just lovely, with the complimentary notes supporting the whole. Thank you for the lovely review (I’m always impressed with all of CFB contributors and their love and knowledge of scent)
    And for the generous draw…. I’m in the us

  • Dilana says:

    I have several fragrances from this Shawn who seems to model of an indie perfumer. Ida’s review of this as a “shimmering” instead of a rich gardenia intrigues me, particularly since I live in Florida where heavy white flowers can be too rich for the humidity.

  • Annika says:

    I always thought of gardenia as a spring/summer floral but I can definitely see it as an autumn floral with the addition of the coffee, bitter almond and spice gourmand notes. Ida mentions that Envoi has a shimmering, radiant quality due to the supporting notes and the heavier, indolic qualities of gardenia are downplayed. MD, USA.

  • foreverscents says:

    Shawn Meyer’s perception of the gardenia, using spicy elements like clove, along with brilliant touches of bitter almond and coffee, sounds radiant and incomparable. I was intrigued by the description of the Missouri Botanical Garden. Actually, I am intrigued by all Shawn’s Missouri references and influences. I need to visit this state soon. It was a joy to read Ida’s glowing review of Envoi.
    I live in the USA.

  • mmerline says:

    First things first—I really need to check out the Missouri Botanical Gardens’s Climatron if I’m ever in town. So cool! Reading about Envoi, I’m struck by the way this fragrance is a little bit soliflore, a little bit gourmand, and a unique take on gardenia. I personally enjoy the creamy bleu cheese note in some gardenia perfumes—like DSH’s take—but Shawn’s inclusion of coffee bean and lots of musks is just as compelling. Hope to try this soon, along with a few other newer Chatillon Lux and Maher Olfactive fragrances I haven’t tried yet.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Arron_Q says:

    I have not tried anything from Chantillon Lux or its sister house, Maher Olfactive, but have heard nothing but praise for Shawn’s work. As I have been trying to expedite my exploration of more American indie houses, I need to go ahead and bump these houses up on my sample list. Envoi certainly sounds like quite a remarkable take on gardenia. I like that he chose to go in a brighter direction, rather than focusing on the oft-played indolent side. The addition of coffee was somewhat surprising, but if Ida says it was a brilliant choice than I am more than willing to take her word. Best of luck to all. I live in NC, USA.