CHANEL Le Lion via @chanelofficial
“And I shall search my very soul
I shall search my very soul
For the lion
For the lion
For the lion
For the lion
Inside of me…” ~ Listen to the Lion, written by Van Morrison in 1969
via the Irish Times©
One sniff of the latest CHANEL oeuvre Le Lion – and I am swept into deep reverie by Van the Man, the Northern Irish bard’s hypnotic Joycean train of thought in which his prose and voice form the fabric of the song Listen to the Lion. Love, passion, loss, endless searching for that which eludes his grasp. The lion within him finds its voice as he seeks to verbalize cascading emotions. There are equal measures of boasting, despair and longing. He moans, roars, rages, seduces over 11 precious minutes. How strange that CHANEL Le Lion follows suit – and that Madame’s own private life would find similar ripples echoed in perfume and music.
via @chanelofficial
“I am a Leo and, like a lion, I use my claws to prevent people from doing me harm, but, believe me, I suffer more from scratching than from being scratched.” ~ Gabrielle CHANEL
Lions figured prominently in Mme. CHANEL’s adventurous life; they represented her astrological sign, Leo and appeared as her totem spirit animal. Lions are emblazoned upon her ensemble buttons, the clasps on her handbags, and frequently as a theme in her jewelry collections. She amassed many figurines and displayed them as a matter of course. The golden lion atop St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice had especial significance for Coco; it was where she and her friends sought respite in art immediately after the untimely accidental death of Mme. CHANEL’s amour fou, Boy (Arthur Edward) Capel. In several aspects Mme. exhibited classically leonine traits: creativity, loyalty, a love of order and considerable business acumen (Leo is a fixed sign, after all), determination, self-confidence, courage, generosity, stubbornness and difficulty accepting criticism gracefully. Like many Leos, she adored the limelight and center stage.
© CHANEL/ Coco CHANEL at her 31 Rue Cambon Apartment
Perfumes created under the CHANEL label nod to significant aspects of her life: her lucky number (5), the year a fragrance was released (22), a familiar tree in the Auvergne of her youth (Sycomore), the name of her cherished Chinese lacquered screens (Coromandel), address of her first boutique (31 Rue Cambon), her country sanctuary (Bel Respiro), Place Vendôme jewelry boutique (18), Riviera getaway wreathed in iris (28 La Pausa), etc. It follows most appropriately, then – that a fragrance honoring her sun sign would be a solid next step, given that she was known to be superstitious. 49 years after her demise, Master Perfumer Olivier Polge has seen to it; the result is CHANEL Le Lion. I did not have the opportunity to smell it until recently – and had I done so, I would have put it on my 2020 top 10 list. There will always be controversy when a new CHANEL fragrance is released. Much is expected of great houses; they traditionally employ highly-regarded perfumers. By this writing you’ve doubtless read many reviews of Le Lion and may have sampled it for yourselves. What I see cropping up most frequently are the comparisons to CHANEL Coromandel and Guerlain’s Shalimar – so let’s address that right off.
Ida’s Bottles of Shalimar, Cormandel and CHANEL Le Lion
I am fortunate to have a 2007 bottle of Coromandel eau de toilette in my collection, along with many iterations of both vintage and current day Shalimars available for juxtaposition – so I’ll try to unravel this. Despite modern eschewing the term “oriental” when we’re attempting to describe a dense, richly resinous perfume which can be spicy, Coromandel, Shalimar and Le Lion share that DNA; it’s all in the tweaking of a formula which has had innumerable variations upon a theme. All three perfumes smell woody and spicy. Coromandel and Shalimar cite incense as a component; Le Lion does not. Coromandel shares amber, woody notes and patchouli, but it possesses none of the sunny citrus introduction of CHANEL Le Lion and in the final analysis, it presents as a larger-than-life, baroque boozy patchouli-with-jasmine with a smattering of frankincense. There is nothing leathery or musky about it; it’s a wall of scent and a power powdery perfume even in the edt. Shalimar? That’s trickier: are we smelling vintage, where the drydown is smokier and more leathery – or a lemony flanker, a floral version, a more vanillic rendition, a contemporary bottle which is clearly different than any of these? There’s the rub. What distinguishes Le Lion from any of them is its brilliant clarion lemon/bergamot trumpet fanfare, truly solar in character and bracing. Both Shalimar (original) and Le Lion possess that opoponax nuance (except that it’s not listed in Le Lion) and a distinct leatheriness combined with musk, sandalwood and vanilla in the base. In Shalimar, civet is apparent; in Le Lion, it’s labdanum and a musk cocktail – and perhaps a snippet of birch tar or isobutyl quinoline, which isn’t listed either. Patchouli’s presence in each fragrance supports the woody/leathery aspect without claiming pride of place as it does in Coromandel. Shalimar is glorious, but not luminous – and Le Lion radiates, potent and lingering but somehow airier and brighter. I can only theorize that perhaps the particular distillation /type of patchouli is of the less heavy/earthy variety.
This isn’t a question of which fragrance is done better; they are each magnificent. Do you need all three in your collection? I can’t resolve that for you. Chacun à son goût. I personally feel that if you are sensitive to subtleties, you might want samples or decants of all three (I’m a realist; sometimes decants are all one can afford). CHANEL Le Lion is a beautifully executed, soulful perfume which weds beauty to the beast with the elegance for which CHANEL is renowned. It’s a coup for the house, especially in these times of many less-than-inspiring fragrances, and I find it marvelous.
via @chanelofficial
CHANEL Exclusifs Le Lion is an illuminated perfume filled with personality: rounded, complete, generous in its scope. It’s all about light – how it initially bursts upon the scene, shifts, transforms into a glowing, enduring purr. In contrast to other ambers, I find it satisfyingly warm and full-bodied sans heft; it intimates leather without the more primal aspect of a traditional Cuir de Russie (not CHANEL’s, which is more suave than many). CHANEL’s lovely sandalwood makes its appearance here; the effect is satiny, a beautiful buffer which polishes the perfume overall. And, of course – there’s the commencement, with such stunning lemon and bergamot that they jump out at you joyfully; that part is irresistible. Is Le Lion shocking? Ground-breaking? It is neither – it is a New Classic, a perfect perfume composed of the finest materials which should stand the test of time.
Well done, CHANEL.
Notes: lemon, bergamot, cistus labdanum, amber, Madagascar vanilla, sandalwood, musk, patchouli
From my own collection. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
I am happy to decant a small sample of my CHANEL Le Lion for one registered reader globally. You must register or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Ida’s review of CHANEL Le Lion and where you live. Draw closes February 2, 2021
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