1984 First untethered spacewalk, First Macintosh computer, First MTV Music Awards, John Galliano’s First fashion show, wiki
“Who controls the past controls the future. Who controls the present controls the past.” – 1984, George Orwell
George Orwell’s iconic work of dystopian literature foretold the year 1984 as a totalitarian nightmare. In this “what-if” literary experiment, state indoctrination weakens the independence of individuals’ minds forcing them to live in a constant state of propaganda-induced fear. Orwell describes what happens to individual freedoms under a regime of oppression symbolized by Big Brother and the outcome is disconsolate. Ironically, the actual events of 1984 can be seen as gateways to new frontiers of freedom, innovation, and communication for future generations. The first Macintosh computer was released in January of 1984. It would become the first personal computer to gain commercial success. Its launch campaign featured an individual in brightly colored clothes smashing a Big-Brother-like character. Their message was clear: the real 1984 would not be like the world portrayed in George Orwell’s novel 1984. Innovation in technology and broadening of culture continued with the first untethered spacewalk by astronaut Bruce McCandless and the launch of the first annual MTV Music Awards. John Galliano’s first fashion show, featuring his line Les Incroyables, integrated menswear designs into women’s fashion. The year 1984 in fragrance proved to be outstanding and are being discovered by a new generation.
CHANEL Coco1984 and advertisement featuring Ines de la Fressange courtesy of CHANEL
Chanel Coco (Jacques Polge)1984: The 1980s was known for big hair, big shoulders, and big fragrances. Coco by Jacques Polge for Chanel was no exception. This powerhouse perfume is made for assured and dignified Queens with a certain smoldering sensuality. Known for its endurance and projection, Coco manages the rare balance of refined yet erotic poise. Its lineage can be found in the likes of YSL’s Opium and Estée Lauder’s Cinnabar, yet the golden heart of Coco adds a certain finesse. Chanel’s Coco is a spicy amber fragrance introduced by dried peaches and velvety spices, with an innovative balsamic resonance resting on a smooth, warm animalic base. Jacques Polge’s mastery of the amber background sets Coco apart and charms with its rare Mysore sandalwood, opoponax, and labdanum accompaniments that create the opulent backdrop (due to material restrictions and conservation efforts, Mysore sandalwood is not found in commercial fragrances today). A round spiciness opens the scent with clove and coriander nestled in juicy citrus. The peach-lacquered rose at the heart of Chanel’s Coco is the star of this masterpiece. A jasmine-inflected mimosa and orange blossom bouquet accents the glorious peachy rose with its resinous and flush petals. The base further enhances its deep and mellow balsamic qualities with tonka and civet. Coco is a radiant bombshell that matches the abundance and affluence of 1984. Notes: Bulgarian Rose, Coriander, Peach, Jasmine, Mandarin Orange, Clove, Orange Blossom, Mimosa, Clover, Amber, Mysore Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Civet, Opoponax, Vanilla, and Labdanum
Givenchy Ysatis bottle, wiki and Vogue Magazine 1992 advertisement
Givenchy Ysatis (Dominque Ropion)1984: Ample and decadent, Givenchy’s Ysatis opens with a great sense of occasion. Tuberose is the glamorous star right out of the bottle, illuminated by sparkling aldehydes and redolent clove. There is a potent magic to Dominique Ropion’s special skill with florals and it shows here. The entire fragrance seems to take the narcotic aspects of tuberose (those fruity-lactonic peach, coconut, orris, and honey facets) and expands them like a crystal prism, repeating and magnifying the heady luxury of tuberose itself. These florals hold a heartbeat of fleshy warmth within their fine petals evoking the sensuality of a tropical evening. Layers of floral complexity unfold languorously during the journey of Givenchy Ysatis. Soapy-sweet and orange-tinged tuberose links up with jasmine, narcissus, and rose. Iris lends its powdered finery to a vintage-styled patchouli, modulating the sensual tuberose toward a touch of formality. Givenchy’s Ysatis blooms toward a woodsy base covering a gentile musky and mossy-resinous dry down. Finally, that fleshy warmth of castoreum and civet are seasoned with vanilla and joined to the soft wood foundation of sandalwood and vetiver. Lush and intoxicating, Givenchy’s Ysatis captures the exuberance of the 80s. Notes: Aldehydes, Ylang-Ylang, Orange Blossom, Galbanum, Brazilian Rosewood, Coconut, Bergamot, Mandarin Orange, Tuberose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Carnation, Rum, Iris, Rose, Castoreum, Civet, Honey, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Cloves, Amber, Patchouli, Musk, Vetiver, and Vanilla
Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso and 1984 advertisement
Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso (Francis Bocris) In 1984 the highest-rated T.V. show, Dynasty, a gloriously over-the-top evening soap opera following the lives of the wealthy and formidable Carrington and Colby clans, might best epitomize the cut-throat world of money, power and boudoir scheming that 1980s business-oriented culture came to represent. And what fragrance can give catfights and caviar? Paloma Picasso’s Paloma Picasso, of course! Such a Diva scent, they named it twice. This animalic, spicy rose and oakmoss potion is a glorious 80s chypre. Lemon, bergamot, and neroli bring a sparkling shine to the jeweled floral bouquet of hyacinth, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and mimosa. Carnation and a lovely bitter-herbal coriander add flecks of airy relief through the scent. Deep into the heart of Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso is one of the most opulent and sexiest roses I’ve experienced. Sophisticated, sensual, and vital – this rose is alive. Crimson petals with an eager cloven spiciness, ardent violet, and lush fruit are hypnotic. M. Francis Bocris creates a timeless and wearable classic with his deft hand integrating rich oakmoss and smoky vetiver. The animalics are honeyed, softly purring and well-integrated. Fallon Carrington would surely have preferred Paloma Picasso’s Paloma Picasso as her signature scent for its bold, ambitious, confident and stylish aplomb. Notes: Carnation, Coriander, Rose, Angelica, Neroli, Bergamot, Amalfi Lemon, Patchouli, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Mimosa, Oakmoss, Civet, Castoreum, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Musk, and Amber
~ Rachel K. Ng, Senior Contributor
Bottles my own, opinions my own.
1984 Chanel Coco, Givenchy Ysatis, Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso
Thanks to Fragrance Vault we have 1 ml samples of 1980s Givenchy Ysatis, and Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso and late 1980s Coco by Chanel for one registered reader in the US. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying if you were around in 1984, or what you enjoyed about Rachel’s choices. Draw closes 6/27/2023
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