Les Nombres d’Or translates to the “Golden Ratio” and whatever one might think of Mme. di Orio’s fragrances catering to the lowest common denominator is not an apt description. For Les Nombres d’Or she chose to explore what I would characterize as three very masculine notes; Ambre, Cuir (Leather), and Musc and create three singular fragrances featuring that note at its axis.
These last few months have seen Ambrox, the aromachemical, getting a workout. Like the many headed hydra it seems to be showing up everywhere. I received the press releases for the two new Le Labo fragrances and there it was right at the top of both note lists; Ambrox. Upon reading further I learned that AnOther 13 was a fragrance built around Ambrox at the core. Baie Rose 26 uses Ambox as it has been used most commonly as a base note in combination with musk. These two fragrances are a good case study in how Ambrox is being used and gave me an opportunity to delve into the differences.
The conclusion to Ca Fleure Bon’s three part series on Pierre Guillaume’s new Huitieme Art Parfums fragrances as I review the remaining four; Ambre Ceruleen, Naiviris, Fareb, and Sucre d’Ebene.
Now that the 2010 calendar has begun its final quarter, the editorial team at Ca Fleure Bon is beginning to reacquaint ourselves with our cold-weather favorites. Ida takes no prisoners, Michelyn is craving sophistication, Skye tries to keep summer with her just a bit longer and for Mark…its cashmere, tobacco and spices.
My experience is that all of the Huitieme Art Parfums fragrances are “linear”. Usually that is a word one doesn’t want associated with their fragrance. In this case I think M. Guillaume will relish this. In many ways all of the fragrances in this line are examples of what phyto-perfumery can be in the most basic sense. I liken it to what a painter must feel like when they hear a new oil color is available. All of a sudden the creative opportunities are widened. Each of these fragrances is meant to show what phyto-perfumery can do.
Odin New York City the Soho men’s clothing store entered the fragrance arena earlier this year with three fragrances; 01 Nomad, 02 Owari, and 03 Century. Once any perfume label starts numbering things you know there will be another and just six months after the debut of the original three, number four has arrived. 04 Petrana is the latest and it is named after a version of black iris that blooms in the Jordanian desert.
