Penhaligon’s Sartorial & L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore: Two Examples of Duchaufour’s Duality

It had never occurred to me that M. Duchaufour worked with a central duality with which he then adds in the rest. His fragrances like L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu always seemed like olfactory travelogues capturing a place. In the two latest releases by M. Duchaufour, Penhaligon’s Sartorial and L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore, it is very clear what the central duality at play is and both of these are good examples of M. Duchaufour’s duality design aesthetic.

Continue Reading

Ineke Gilded Lily: To Frame The Lily

I have been looking forward to trying Ineke Ruhland’s seventh fragrance, Ineke Gilded Lily, since she told me about it last April. Ms. Ruhland chose to create a fruity chypre with a heart consisting of the Japanese Goldband Lily. One of the things that I am impressed with time and again is the dedication of the best artisanal perfumers and Ms. Ruhland is one of those. To truly understand the Goldband Lily Ms. Ruhland planted some in her Bay Area garden and took the time to experience the Goldband Lily as a living thing before converting it to an accord.

Continue Reading

Amouage Memoir Man: The Road To Hell Is Paved With Pine Trees

From the very intense description of Amouage Memoir. My expectations were for an Amouage journey into the darkside. The note list which contained a central axis of absinth, frankincense, and vetiver made me think this journey into hell was going to be a real pleasure. Instead Karine Vinchon must believe one of the circles of hell is landscaped in pine trees because Memoir Man comes off as an intense study in heady camphoraceous conifers.

Continue Reading

Serge Lutens Boxeuses: Bye-Bye Anti-Perfume, Hello Perfume

In the Dog Days of August before the first new fall releases begin to arrive I think most perfumistas go through a momentary bout of despair. Then like magic the new fall releases begin to arrive and our fascination with fragrance is re-kindled. In a fall of some excellent releases already, Boxeuses was the spark that set my perfumed desire blazing again.

Continue Reading

Smell Bent One: Plan B Celebrates A Birthday

Brent Leonesio began his life as a perfumer about a year ago. He had lost his job and instead of trying to keep on doing what he had been doing, Mr. Leonesio had the courage to immediately go to Plan B. Plan B was to create a perfume line called Smell Bent. Mr. Leonesio was a fixture on many of the fragrance forums and was a frequent contributor. As he embarked on creating his perfume line he was going to try living the dream that many of us harbor about our passions……Can I Do This?

Continue Reading