M. Wasser truly does use oud differently as it is much more a member of the ensemble in all three of the fragrances in the Les Deserts d’Orient collection. Instead of overwhelming the other notes it defers to them adding its unique quality to illuminate the usual with the unusual.
I was particularly intrigued by the four colognes which make up the new The Different Company L’Esprit Cologne Collection. The perfumer who created all four of these new colognes is Emilie Coppermann. Clearly, Luc Gabriel, the owner of The Different Company turned Mme Coppermann loose to create freely and the result is a collection which once again helps to redefine what a cologne is.
Heeley has only previously worked with Eau de Parfum strength compositions and those have a clear strong sense of architecture in their form. With the extraits I was curious if there would be a softening of that spine and a bit more malleability within these new releases. If anything Agarwoud, L’Amandiere, and Bubblegum Chic do show Mr. Heeley can work in a different style.
As I mentioned in my review of Mandy Aftel’s Aftelier Sepia it was the result of one of the more interesting internet projects hosted on NathanBranch.com and called “Letters To A Fellow Perfumer”. What was so compelling about this written intercourse was two talented independent perfumers talking openly about their path from concept to juice in a bottle. Laurie Erickson’s finished perfume is called Forest Walk.
The latest addition to the Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur is called Grand Bal and it feels like the right accessory to add fragrant flow to a Dior ball gown.
