ÇaFleureBon Saturday Night Classic: Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDP Review (Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud) 1993- The subversive vanilla  

 

  Vintage Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDP review

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique perfume bottle, photo by Nicoleta

 

“It is beautiful to be what you are.” Jean-Paul Gaultier

For me, one of the most iconic images that comes to mind, when I think of Jean Paul Gaultier, is the motorcycle leather jacket paired with a floating tulle dress. He was the “inventor” of this look, when in 1976, in his first-ever runaway show he paired a biker jacket with a ballet skirt, saying that he has always loved to combine the unexpected.

Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show

Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show

This provocative love for contrasts and combining the unexpected is apparent in all aspects of his work: think of the minimalist cage-like structure of his trademark corset and the intricately decorated adornments; the industrial metallic packaging holding the most glamourous feminine bottles; turning hidden underwear into a fashion statement, out of the boudoir straight under the stage lights, dressing “for battle”  the biggest stars of the decade: Madonna, Grace Jones, and Mylene Farmer.

1990s fashion Madonna corset,

The infamous Madonna corset, photo by Emil Larsson ©

Many pages have been written about the symbolism of corsets and the subversive and powerful way in which Jean-Paul Gaultier has flipped the submissive, torture-like image of the corset into fashion as female armor. “I have loved corsets since I was small. When I was a child, my grandmother took me to an exhibition, and they had a corset on display. I loved the flesh color, the salmon satin, the lace.”- he recalls. It’s a little know fact that Madonna was not the first to wear the infamous conical bra, the initial “model” was his teddy bear, named Nana, that he first fitted the pointed bra on, when the designer was just six years old.

best perfume ads

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique ad, photo by Jean-Baptiste Mondino, 2004

In 1993 Gaultier launched Classique and became an instant hit and best-seller – although in the first days the sellers were a bit apprehensive of displaying the Warhol-esque aluminum cans in their shops. Gaultier recalls the precise moment of inspiration: I always thought that you can find beauty where you least expect it. On opening a tin of cat food for my cat I suddenly realized that the tin looked like tribal jewelry, that it was a beautiful object and I made bracelets out of it. Later it became my perfume packaging.”

 

Gaultier Fashion editorial

Jean Paul Gaultier FW2013, via Vogue

The fragrance kept its cult status through the years and gave birth to a myriad of flankers and limited editions that dressed the iconic female torso in all the ”IT pieces” of the last two decades.  My absolute favorite has always been the eau de parfum concentration of Classique.

 

vintage Jean Paul Gaultier Classique review

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique  perfume bottle, photo by Nicoleta 

The first thing that hits you with Jean Paul Gaultier Classique is its a sweet, boozy, and strong rum note, that helps you roleplay either a drunk and charming Captain Jack Sparrow with extra winged eyeliner (hmm, what a great idea for a socially – distanced Halloween) or, more simply and straight forward, just puts you in the right “Saturday night- out-for-drinks” mood (if you can remember how that feels, sigh). You take shot after shot of rum, throat burning and fingers tingling with anticipation – only to have a short moment of sobering up, prompted by an assertive floral note, courtesy of the narcissus.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique for women by Jacques Cavellier

Gaultier corset, from the official site, photo collage by Nicoleta

The mood switches to a “Sade-playing-in-the-background” narrative, the scent softens and seduces, orchid petals bloom, and vanilla scented wispy clouds cover your peripheral view. Dizzy, you get back home, take off your killer heels and corseted dress and slip into your pink fluffy pajamas. The dry-down is all powdery fluffiness, pinch-cheeked-proper ambery warmness, and cushiony –soft fluffy woods.  In short – the olfactive experience of a Saturday night out, minus the hangovers and the morning headache.

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique was created in 1993 and the nose was Jacques Cavallier (read more about his other other classic creations: Lancome Poeme,  Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Issey and YSL M7)

Top Notes: Rose, Rum; Heart Notes: Vanilla orchid, Narcissus; Base Notes: Amber, Sandalwood absolute, Tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla

Nicoleta Tomsa, Editor

Disclosure: My bottle, opinions are my own

Do you own or have tried Classique EDP for women?

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