ÇaFleureBon Notes From the Lab: Perfume and Clean Beauty + Favorites From Provision Scents Draw

Clean Beauty Ingredients in perfume

 

Clean Beauty  via clean beauty optics

Clean beauty has become synonymous with various features you’d want a product to have, but what does it really mean? At its core, clean beauty refers to products that don’t contain “harmful” ingredients. Sounds good, right? But what exactly does that mean? Since it’s not an “official” designation, clean beauty has fallen into the vast category of marketing terms that range from meaningful and real to, well, just marketing terms.

Sherri Sebastian of Provision Scent

Sherri Sebastian of Provision Scents

My own experience as a perfumer in the fragrance industry behind the scenes for many years makes me pause when I see brands and retailers solely built on this premise, especially when it comes to phthalates, synthetic fragrances, and vegan products.

What is Clean Beauty

Sherri’s view while hiking along the Pacific Ocean

It’s particularly interesting to see where trends start and how they play out in the retail landscape. To me, clean beauty is not new, but has been evolving for decades and has only recently become part of our everyday beauty vernacular.

Let’s go back for a minute to the early nineties. As an apprentice perfumer, one of the main ingredients I worked with was diethyl phthalate (DEP). Who knew this odorless, seemingly innocuous liquid which worked so well as a solvent in formulations across all categories would soon disappear from our ingredient palettes.  Back then, I was so intensely focused on formulations and creating the perfect scent that I didn’t pay attention to marketing trends at all. What I did know is that DEP disappeared from our shelves, and perfumers instead turned to different solvents to use in formulations.  Better ones? That’s debatable, but at least brands could rest assured that this ingredient was not in their formulations. Since I haven’t seen DEP being used in formulations since the 90’s, when I see a product today proudly announcing its “phthalate-free” status I’m forced to wonder – who does use DEP nowadays?  My guess….not many, if any brands at all.

Another interesting request I’ve had in recent years was for “vegan” perfumes. Again, with no official definitions, where are we going with this exactly?  Like DEP, the last few remaining animal-derived fragrance ingredients like civet and castoreum all but disappeared from the shelves of mainstream fragrance houses over two decades ago.

Best clean beauty brands

Provision Scents’ take on clean beauty

Taking this a step further, we can say that botanical ingredients are derived from plants, so they are not animal or petroleum-based. But how are these botanical ingredients extracted, processed, and transported from the fields to the manufacturer without using petroleum somewhere along the way? This moves into the “sustainable” conversation, but still, you can see that a holistic view matters when we’re discussing terms that inform a consumers understanding of ingredients and in turn their decisions on what products to use.

Clean Beauty and perfume

Sherri’s garden inspiration: her weekly rose-cutting ritual

As I watch the pendulum continue to swing in the clean direction, I can’t help but become nostalgic for the good old days when brands had more to say than simply listing off what they don’t contain.  This, in part, was a big inspiration behind the development of my own brand of luxury wellness offerings, Provision Scents. I found that there were less and less products I’d want to use that were luxurious, had “good ingredients”, and contained a perfectly curated scent.  When I developed this brand, I only used ingredients that I would want to put on my own body, especially focusing on the scent that made the most sense for each product. Based off this and without considering marketing terms, I realized that my products were naturally “clean.”  Basically, Provision is a line based on common sense with a little luxury.  Even though it’s a clean beauty line, my motivation has always been to make the best product most suited for a particular purpose, and not to check off the right “marketing” boxes.

In summary, is clean beauty a good thing? Of course it is. We all want the best for ourselves, and transparency is an important step in making good decisions about what we put on our bodies.  When it comes to marketing terms and big concepts like “clean beauty” that cover a lot of ground, the particulars will continue to change as developers find “better” ingredients.  Once you realize that this concept is ever-evolving, you can relax into using your favorite products knowing that the hunt for the next big trends and next best ingredients is already underway.

Sherri Sebastian, Contributing Editor (Sherri Sebastian is an independent perfumer and founder of luxury wellness beauty brand, Provision Scents.  She’s based in Los Angeles and holds a seat on the Board of Directors for the American Society of Perfumers). We are thrilled that she returns to our Notes from the Lab Series.

Provision Scents clean beauty products

Thanks to Sherri’s generosity we have a curated travel collection (especially for this article) of a set of Provision Scents Clean Beauty body and face care, apothecary and perfumes for one registered reader in the U.S, (you must register or your comment will be ineligible). Please leave a comment with what you learned/enjoyed about Sherri’s article and if you have any questions on Clean Beauty, as Sherri will check back to answer them Draw closes August 6, 2019. Please like The Series on Facebook here and your comment will count twice

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16 comments

  • I loved this article! Such a clear explanation to many questions. I expect (and enjoy) good marketing but sometimes the “clean” beauty brands just create fear and I end up confused. That’s when I walk away not purchasing anything. Thank you for giving us some insight, Sherri. It’s much appreciated! In the USA.

  • I like the idea of a beauty and fragrance line that uses clean ingredients while maintaining a luxurious quality. I would like to know Sherri’s favorite notes and accords and if she uses all of them in her perfume line. I have commented here and also liked The Series page. Thank you for the opportunity. I live in the USA.

  • I always learn so much from Sherri’s articles in the Notes from the Lab Series. I also appreciate Sherri’s beautifully clean body products and fragrances in her Provision line. The Provision Purity deodorant is a must have for me and the fragrances are lovely. I am in the US.

  • I have been curious about Provision Scents for a while now. I did not know that she also does face and body care. “Provision is a line based on common sense with a little luxury.” That works for me and if one of the scents evokes the beautiful CA coastline and ocean picture, it would be heavenly. In the USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I found this article to be most informative. I had no idea that many of the “free from” were actually not in use for years. The article also changed my focus to one of greater consideration regarding the ingredients which are absorbed through the skin. Thanks so much for this information and for this great draw.

  • I enjoyed the fact she said she would only uae ingredients she would put on her own body. Would love to try and see what its all about

  • This article was very interesting and informative. I have seen the “clean beauty” tag line used more and more often but until now didnt really know what it meant. That’s what I learned from this article, that it’s not like a uniform code and can mean different things to different brands even being used basically as marketing jargon. In the USA. Thanks

  • sillage4ever says:

    Using higher quality body ingredients is something I’ve around to with aged experience, glad to see the market becoming more transparent and moving in a more mindful direction. Thanks for the clear explanations.

  • Lisa F Collins says:

    I found it interesting that marketers who use the “phthalate-free” wording in their add campaigns are making it sound like they are special. When really as Sherri said, who does use those these days.
    Thank you, Sherri for the informative article. I look forward to trying out your house.

  • chrisskins says:

    I learned what I had hoped – that “clean” should include all that is good, not just merely a marketing angle. I live in the USA.

  • I liked that it isn’t just about staying away from products which are cruel to animals, but which are also sustainable. I recall reading that there are concerns about sustainability with patchouli?
    Im in the US. thanks for the draw

  • doveskylark says:

    I have been thinking a lot about clean beauty, vegan products, sustainable practices, making smart choices. I like that Provision Scents is “based on common sense with a little luxury.” I think that could be my motto.
    I live in the USA.

  • I’m following on your Facebook page (Diana Devlin).

    I agree wholeheartedly on this statement – “As I watch the pendulum continue to swing in the clean direction, I can’t help but become nostalgic for the good old days when brands had more to say than simply listing off what they don’t contain. ” Sometimes it gets exhausting to have to worry about every little thing that is in products! But that as an aside, I do enjoy natural fragrances.

    I live in the US.

  • Excellent article by Sherri for sharing the concept of Provision scents clean beauty products that was very informative. I learned a lot and has me very interested in the line. Thanks for the draw. I live in USA.

  • Thank you everyone for your comments and feedback! As always, I enjoy sharing insights from behind the scenes with you. This article was intended to provide some balance and perspective into the ever-changing landscape of the fragrance & beauty world. There are so many good brands out there and the focus on clean beauty and sustainability are definitely a step in the right direction. (re: patchouli, I’m not sure, but with any natural material sustainability needs to be taken into consideration)
    Most of all, let’s just relax and enjoy the things we love–whether it’s clean beauty, natural beauty, or the tried and true scent that brings back our most cherished memories.