CaFleureBon Iris and Orris in Perfumery “The First Day of Spring” + Vernal Equinox (TEN Iris Perfumes) Draw

goddess iris rainbow

 Iris, the goddess of the rainbow and harbinger of Spring

Iris the Greek Goddess travels on rainbows and flowers grow where she walks. Iris the goddess acts as a messenger of the gods, linking them with humanity and traveling with the wind through the world, the sea, and the underworld. In some legends she has wings of gold and carries a winged staff and a pitcher. Iris also refers to the eye and the word ‘iridescence’ is derived from her name. Iris leads the souls of women to the Elysian fields and rainbow-colored flowers appear in her footprints as she travels. She heralds the arrival of Spring. In the language of flowers iris symbolizes eloquence and the colors have different meanings: purple symbolizing wisdom and compliments, the blue is faith and hope, the yellow is passion and the white is purity. 

fleur de lis

The fleur de lys is not a lilly; but an iris

The three petals of the iris flower symbolize faith, wisdom and valour. It has appeared on the sceptres of pharaohs, on the forehead of sphinxes, on the ancient heraldic arms of Florence, and was the original scepter. As the ‘fleur de lys’ it was a symbol of French royalty, a name that refers not to the lily but the abundant irises that grew along the river LisThe ancient heraldic arms of the city of Florence were a red iris on a white shield.  In France, the fleur-de-lys became unpopular after the revolution and many of its representations were destroyed. Its presence in North America usually indicates the presence of French settlers. In New Orleans, Louisiana, the fleur-de-lys has become a symbol of community support for the citizens following Hurricane Katrina and is the official symbol of Louisiana.

iris in perfumery

Iris originated in the Mediterranean extending into Northern Africa and India. As a perfume ingredient the root is harvested and carefully dried for at least three years and up to five.  However, it is not the flower of the iris that gives us the delicate floral aroma but the rhizome or root. The species used for their fragrant rhizomes are Iris Florentina, Iris Pallida, and Iris Germanica. The tough and hairy rhizome, which is bitter with an earthy smell when harvested, yields  the prized ingredient – orris. Patience and meticulous technique are required to obtain orris butter and the nearly perfect scent of violet. It is then peeled, powdered, dissolved in water and distilled. A good orris powder will have the texture of talcum powder and will be pale in color. Because the starchy root also contains myristic acid, a fatty substance, the result of distillation is a very thick substance sometimes called orris butter or concrete.  The large amount of starch and fat mean that yield of the pure scented material is very small, the cost of labor is very high, and since one ton of the rhizome produces just two kilos of essential oil, it is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world (one world renowned fragrance expert claims just one kilo is worth 100,000 euros).

Iris_pallida

Iris Pallida

 The essential oil is sometimes called a “concrete” due to its solid, fatty nature.  Further distillation of the butter under vacuum produces a pale yellow or white absolute that is very sweet, delicate, and floral and just a bit woody.  Its true beauty and diffusiveness are apparent when it is diluted. Orris butter is sold with various percentages of irones, alpha-irone being the molecule that produces the characteristic odor of violets. The butter may have a very slight fatty note but also has the ethereal floral, woody, slightly berry-like, true orris scent. Orris is long-lasting and often acts as a fixative in perfumes. It blends very well with  carrots (think of Olivia Giacobetti’s masterful use of carrot  in the classic Hermes Hiris perfume), patchouli, oakmoss, ambrette seeds, roses, cedar; Iris is at the heart of many florals and   can be quite versatile depending on the perfumer and the other ingredients.

Ras_El_Hanout-4

 Ras el Hanout

Orris is also used as a flavor and, although bitter, 1 part is perceptible in 100 to 200 million parts of sweetened water and provides a raspberry-like flavor.  It is an ingredient in many brands of gin and was once used in Russia to flavor a drink of honey and ginger that was sold in the streets. Orris is used in cooking to make Ras el Hanout, an exotic blend of up to 30 spices used in Middle Eastern cooking. The name means top of the shop and Moroccan spice sellers price themselves on the quality of their spice. Orris root adds a floral fragrance to this spicy mix. 

van gogh and japanese iris

  TopTIris  Ukiyo-e by Japanese artist Katsushiko Hokusai 1830 (top)

Vincent van Gogh Irises 1889 bottom (bottom)

Theophrastus, Discorides and Pliny appreciated its medicinal qualities.  The root has uses both earthy and ethereal. It was used as a snuff to clear the head and as a powerful laxative. When the fresh root is ‘bruised with wine’ it is effective with dropsy and may also be used as a cosmetic for the removal of freckles.  It is diuretic, emetic and cathartic.  If given in too large a dose can cause nausea. The powder was used in the past for talcum and face powders, however orris can cause skin sensitization and should be used with caution. Dried rhizomes can be placed in drawers to freshen clothing and linens or as a fixative in potpourri. Orris root was mixed with anise for a perfume in England as early as 1480 and was mentioned in association with Edward IV.  Roots may also be turned into beads. Pieces of Verona Orris may be shaped into chewing toys for babies.

Iris, 1982 mappelthorpe

Iris, 1982   Robert Mappelthorpe

The sensuality and beauty of iris flowers has inspired many artists including Vincent van Gogh. Joseph Mason, a friend of John James Audubon, painted a precisely detailed Copper Iris to which Audubon added a pair of warblers. Georgia O’Keefe’s Black Iris showed the dark beauty  (the painting is a metaphor of women’s sexuality) and photographer Robert Mappelthorpe included a moody photo of irises in his flower portfolio. Japanese artists used the artist frequently in wood block paintings, often near a zigzag wooden bridge and warriors would wear images of irises and dragonflies stamped into tanned deerskin when going into battle. In fact, Vincent van Gogh may have been inspired by Japanese paintings of irises

iris scepter- ancient greek

Thou art the Iris, fair among the fairest,
Who, armed with golden rod
And winged with the celestial azure, bearest
The message of some God.
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, from Iris

Iris/orris may be thought of as a moon plant for digging into the subconscious or it may be useful for divination and dreamwork. However, in its role as a scepter it is also associated with dominion and war. Generally used in love potions for attracting love: if you blow the powder onto clothes, sheets, and other objects you will get love returned from the owner.  With rose oil it can be used to cast love spells – put a tiny amount on your finger and touch the object of your desire.  A bit of cinnamon will increase the strength of the spell.  Spicy and sweetly floral does the deed.

Like the myths and legends surrounding it, the iris plant is full of contradictions. Feminine and passionate, masculine and warlike, bearded and delicate with a fragrant root that is both bitter and ethereally floral. Orris requires patience and diligence to reap its reward but it is oh so worth it.

Elise Pearlstine, Monthly Contributor

Michelyn Camen, EIC and Art Director

georgia o'keefe black iris

Georgia O’Keefe Black Iris, 1926

For our draw, we have chosen our favorite Iris perfumes and two naturals with strong Iris nuances.

 impossible iris ramon monegal

1.7 oz of Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris – Italian Iris Concrete (iris florentina) thanks to Eric and Stamatis Parfum1.com– (do you think they know their fleur de lys logo is an Iris)? USA only

iris 39 le labo 1.7 oz cafleurebon

 50 ml Iris 39 from Le Labo  by Frank Voelkl with lris Florentina concrete and a proprietary iris molecule to make it “modern and airy”

xerjoff xj 17 17 irisss

15ml of Xerjoff Irisss with Florentine orris butter  (travel spray not as pictured) Russia excluded ($250 value in special travel size)

orris noir travel set

4 x10 ml Orris Noir from  the lovely Linda Pilkerton at Ormonde Jayne- It smells like the O’Keefe painting

parfums DelRae Mythique

Mythique by Parfums DelRae created by Yann Vasnier- Florentine iris butter and according to DelRae Roth, “Mythique has the highest percentage of iris pallida of any other fragrance on the market”. USA only

burlesque maria candida gentile

From Maria Candida Gentile 15 ml of Burlesque( from the Exclusive Collection; special travel size) Florentine orris butter- This  according to our reader Holly F is sexy and sophisticated available at Parfumerie Nasreen ($100 )

equistrius perfume parfum d'empire paris

50ml of Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire  (Iris Pallida, Iris Florentina)created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato thanks to Polina, owner of Fragrance & Art

prada infusion d'iris edt

Prada Infusion d’Iris  Eau de Parfum 200 ml/6.5 oz with Iris Pallida from 99perfume.com USA

npg logo

ambre-alcheme-for-web

From our wonderful author, Elise Pearlstine 100% NATURAL 15ml   Ambre Alcheme (who has changed her Company’s name to Tambela) –  iris palida orris as a base note USA only

FrancescabyHouseofMatriarch

Christi Meshell of House of Matriarach  15 ml of Francesca ($133 value) at 33 percent concentrate, orris at the base. USA only

five-women-and-the-iris-marilene-sawaf

Five Women and the Iris by marilene sawaf

To be eligible for our  Harbinger of Spring draw you must leave a quality comment with something interesting you learned from this article about Iris in perfumery AND AS MANY PERFUMES YOU WOULD LIKE TO WIN IN YOUR CHOICES . If you live in the USA you must include a natural perfume.

IF YOU ONLY WEAR NATURAL PERFUMES THOSE CAN BE YOUR CHOICES. 

This time, one commenter will be judged on  the originality and quality of their comment (Elise and Michelyn will judge) and that poster will automatically win one of their choices.  DRAW ENDS March 21, 2013 (the day after first day of spring).

We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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96 comments

  • I found the information about using iris as a love attractor very interesting…especially increasing its potency by adding cinnamon! I guess you would be using orris as a fixative in a big way!

    I would love to win the Xerjoff Irisss which I have never tried and the natural I would choose is the House of Matriarch Francesca.

  • Wonderful article! I have to say, I’m amazed that iris is edible! I’d imagine that it would taste like those delicate little violet pastilles. I’m also now lemming a necklace made from pieces of orris root! Iris is my very favorite note in perfume, and while I have quite a few iris fragrances, I’m shocked that the only one on your giveaway list that I’ve smelled is the Prada Infusion d’Iris! So thank you for pointing me toward some new stuff to hunt down 🙂 If I *were* a lucky winner, I’d be thrilled with anything on the list! As far as the natural scents go, I’m curious about the Ambre Alcheme… it sounds lovely.

  • Oh my god, the Iris. Prada Infusion d’Iris is my HG. I wear it summer and winter and always get compliments on it. I’ve occasionally tried to find an earthier version of the Iris, but to no avail. I have yet to try some of the frags listed above, and hadn’t even heard of Burlesque before, so guess I will be ordering some samples now, lol.

    Thank you for the article! I was at a Van Gogh exhibit recently and read that he was definitely inspired by the Japanese renditions of the Iris. And the O’Keefe Iris is so gorgeous. I didn’t know that the iris was symbolic of both love and war. Its beauty is so versatile!

    I’m in Canada, and I would choose Maria Candida’s Burlesque, Orris Noir, Xerjoff Irisss, or Iris 39.

  • wefadetogray says:

    I did not know that there was a goddess called Iris. It reminds me of Spring’s goddesses Hebe and Flora. I did not know that the petals of the iris symbolized faith, wisdom, and valour. I had no idea it was used in gin, Middle Eastern flavors, and that it has medicinal properties. Honestly, previous to this post I had no knowledge of iris beyond the fact it was called orris.
    I would love to try RM Impossible Iris, Xerjoff Irisss, OJ Orris Noir, PdR Mythique, Maria Candida Gentile work with natural essences seems intriguing to me so I would love to try the sexy Burlesque

  • The iris flower has intrigued people for ages. I hadn’t realized that its image had been shown in ancient Egypt. And the picture you used showing the connection between the iris flower and the fluer de lys was eye opening.
    The natural perfumes, such as Francesca, would be a new experience for me. I have several iris based perfumes, but the use of naturals adds a new twist. I have Iriss, Le Labo Iris 39 and Oris Noir on my Iris wish list and would enjoy them or any of the others you have noted.

  • I thought I knew a lot about the iris, as it’s one of my favorite flowers to grow, but I had no idea you could make beads from the roots or use it it powdered in love potions. (I shall be hunting down the technique as soon as I submit this reply!)

    I would love to win House of Matriarach Francesca ( LOVE the idea of a floral drydown; this could be my Holy Grail!), Maria Candida’s Burlesque, Prada Infusion d’Iris, Parfums DelRaue Mythique, Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, or Xerjoff Irisss.

    Thank you!

  • Terrific article – I’m going to save it for inspiration for next time I work with the orris tincture I’ve got infusing! So much I never knew about irises, which are one of my very favorite flowers. I had no idea that the Fleur de Lys is actually an iris – in fact, I never identified with the fleur de lys symbol as deeply rooted in nature, even though I like it graphically, because I always thought to myself, well, that’s not a lily! Knowing that it’s in fact an iris, and that the name comes from the river Lis, brings me a lot of pleasure. Thank you!

    I’d love to try the two naturals, Ambre Alcheme and Francesca.

  • I find curious the fact that the fleur du lys is an iris, but now I know why they call it “butter”, I readed this lots of times but never know the reason! As always, Cafleurebon gives me answers

    Well, I would like to post a little fragment of something I wrote some time ago, related to something that happened the firsts days of spring, that can match the mood that some iris based perfumes can evoke in me.

    ADVICE! this can be a bit sad and cheesy, but still:

    “Today I can only lie down in the floor and wait for the rain, be mud again. But first I want to listen about my life’s footsteps, once more, the faceless’ heartbeat, today I want you to touch this old shell and slowly take it apart, as if you touched the roots of that elm which waits to be cutted through that lightning bolt, that elm that waits for the wind to rip it out from life… I won’t tell you anything, my voice is dead, life, laughs, memories,
    they are only distant stars that some day were flames… Today I just feel the most profound and terrible way to drink solitud, and silently yearn to bath in that moonlight to see if I can still feel the miracle, but this time not spring’s, but yours.

    I would like to win:

    -Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire
    -Xerjoff Irisss
    -Iris 39 from Le Labo

    Thank you for the draw!

  • “In the spring a livelier iris changes on the burnished dove
    In the spring a young mans fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love”
    -Tennyson
    In the spring the goddess Iris wield her scepter and magically iris perfumes appear
    At her feet grow
    Parfum dempire equistrius
    Xerjoff Irisss
    Francesca floral delights

    Her mythique is legendary

  • I didn’t realize that the reason some essential oils are called ‘concretes’ is because they are solid fats. Also at first glance I found the O’Keefe Black Iris to be startlingly sexual!
    I’d like to win Iris 39 from Le Labo, Prada Infusion d’Iris, or Mythique by Parfums DelRae.

  • I was surprised to learn that Iris is used in Ras el Hanout, which my wife uses at home to make wonderful foods! The incredible amount of work involved is also fascinating. And such wonderful smells. My wife and I own several of these, but I’d love to win the Xerjoff, Le Labo, Ramon Monegal, and the Parfums d’Empire. All sound very nice.

  • I wish that I could be poetic or original but I really suck at it
    :p but the article is really interesting now that I know how expensive odds to make the orris butter, how much time it takes to make it (up to five years!) And all its uses, even to make love potions, and all the history as well. I didn’t have a clue that fleur de lys and iris were the same thing. I never made that connection between those two. And also that goes back all the way back to Egypt…
    I would love to win Equistrius, Xerjoff Irisss and the impossible iris.
    Thanks for another cool article.

  • I really enjoy these articles about ingredients used in perfumery. I always learn so much about the subject being discussed. Prior to reading this post, I had no idea that iris was used as a flavoring agent, or as a component of Ras el Hanout. I did know that orris butter is expensive, but was shocked to learn that a kilo can command up to 100, 000 euros.

    I enjoy iris scents, and if I were fortunate enough to win this draw, I would like to win:
    Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris
    Le Labo Iris 39
    Parfums delRae Mythique
    Maria Candida Gentile Burlesque
    Tambela Ambre Alcheme

    Thank you!

  • I enjoyed reading about the “earthy” medicinal uses of the root — it seems to be quite the effective all-around purging agent! And the idea of using it as snuff just made me giggle…

    I’d love to win Impossible Iris, Iris 39, Mythique, Orris Noir, Equistrius, or Ambre Alcheme.

  • I enjoyed learning that one of my favorite spice blends Ras el Hanout often has Iris/orris in it. Which the one on my spice rack does not have and I am bummed about. I will have to hunt one down. As it’s one of my absolute favorite notes in perfumery, incense, etc.. eating it must be on my list as well. I would love to try either of the amazingly delicious naturals if I were so lucky as to win the draw. The one orris based scent that I own was my cozy companion recently at the funeral of my father. The spring renewal rebirth soft floral with a green aspect that isn’t overly floral made me feel cared for and solid in a very trying moment.

  • I was so excited to read this post, iris is a beautiful flower and even better fragrance…love it to bits. Now I know it also has practical uses, such as medicinal and in cooking.
    I have the Mythic Tarot deck, and Temperance is symbolised by Iris, with the rainbow forming a bridge of communication between heaven and earth and the flow of feeling.
    I have never tried but would love
    Mythique
    Irisss
    And Burlesque

  • What I found interesting is the etymology of the word “iris” related to the eye and the word “iridiscence” coming from it;
    Butterfly wings, and sea shells have a lot of iridiscence and I know it has nothing to do with iris but these remeber me to blue colour, changing then in yellow, then green, white, purple…. depending on the light!; So are iris flowers which have different colours!
    What I didn’t know is that the odor of violet comes from the orris butter! amazing!
    I would also add that my favourite iris fragance is “Iris Poudre” from Frederic Malle , a very powdery earthy iris.
    As an international reader I would choose:

    -le labo:iris 39
    -xerjoff: irisss

  • marcopietro says:

    I love any picture of irises and I very much enjoyed the pictures that illustrate your interesting article.
    As anyone else with an interest in perfumery I have read many articles about the work of the iris and its high costs, but knew nothing of use in the kitchen of the iris root.
    I know many shades of iris used in perfumery, but I’d also try its results in the kitchen, I’d like to tester flavor and aroma caused by Ras el Hanout into plates.

    I’d like to win:

    Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire
    Iris 39 from Le Labo
    Xerjoff Irisss

    Thank you for the draw!

  • Anonymous Lily says:

    Whenever I see any work by Vincent Van Gogh, my heart sinks a little bit, especially his works like the Irises, the Wheatfield with Crows and the Church at Auvers. My heart sinks because I have a great affinity for the artist who made me fall more deeply in love with..art. When I saw, ‘Van Gogh’s, Van Gogh’s’, I knew then I wanted to paint and study art seriously. I got paints and a paintbrush and studied his use of color. Then I painted and painted and painted. Van Gogh struggled so much during his time here. I was struggling myself when I discovered Van Gogh. As I was watching that ‘Van Gogh’s, Van Gogh’s’, it gave me hope, art gave me hope and reason to carry on at the time. Hopelessness turned into painting, a lot of painting. My love for painting spread to love for photography, love for the performing arts and now recently, perfume. I nearly got the chance to go to France for a ‘Van Gogh’ tour, to go where he painted and to see various flower fields..etc. I didn’t get the chance to go but I wonder what it’s like to just get out a canvas in or near some of those fields, to walk among places of inspiration to Van Gogh and other artists.

    Irises are known to be cold and somewhat depressing flowers. In Van Gogh’s painting of ‘Irises’, all are a blue-purple but one. There’s a white one..maybe it resembles hope? At least it does to me.

    Of course, lol, I’ve wondered while i was reading this article, what Van Gogh would think of perfume or thought about it. If he was a fan? Surely, he would like an iris scent I would think? The next time I spray on a perfume, I will do it in appreciation for Van Gogh’s work, lol, sounds lame..but ya, I will think of Irises and fields in France.

    When I’ve encountered irises in person..I’ve thought the flower represents life itself, the fragility of the petals-life can be fragile, easily damaged. The strong root- staying strong though it all. The grand size, beauty and color of the flower-the beauty it is to get through to the other side.

    I’d love to win Impossible Iris by Ramon Monegal as his first bespoke was an iris for his wife and continued to work with iris and now created this perfume. I sampled it and it’s nice, he knows how to do irises!

    I also really love Prada Infusion d’ Iris, it’s just gorgeous.

    For natural, I’d like to try Francesca. Thanks a lot!

  • I have always been surprised that it is not the beautiful, sensuous petals of the iris that yield scent, bit the root bulbs. After reading this article, I understand d it more.

    Iris are a special flower to me. When I was a very young girl my paternal Grandmother lived in a rather sad little house. I remember her as being rather severe, in contrast to my other lively, funny Grandmother. In appearance and manner she was rather dour. But like clockwork every spring her flower bed would suddenly burst forth in the most magnificent display of iris, colorful, regal and sensuous. It was such a contrast to her daily life that even as a young child, it made me think there was a part of her that I just didn’t see yet.

    When she died my Mother lovingly transferred many of these bulbs to our own house, so that every spring my Father would remember my Mother. Thirty yrears later, my Father already gone and my Mother passed away, we were closing up and selling her house. In such a beautiful and thoughtful act of love a dear friend came and dug up some of the bulbs and planted them in my front garden. At that time of sadness I hardly noticed but eight months later, as my heart was starting to mend, a few blooms popped up. I can’t tell you the happiness that gave me.

    I’ve always thought the iris to be so regal, and now that I know the connection to fleur d lys it makes sense.

  • I meant to say “my father would remember his mother”.

    I would love any of these, but tops on my list would be the Impossible Iris and Mythique.

  • I always thought that the fleur de lys was a lily, but now I know it’s so obvious that it represents an iris. The symbol itself even looks like an iris. Funny how one can take something for granted.

    In perfumes I adore the iris flower. As an international reader it’s too bad I cannot choose from every scent mentioned here and I’m not familiar with. Although I am familiar with Burlesque, which is a lovely soft, warm and slightly sweet floriental. This would normally be my first choice, but because it’s (almost) spring – well, let’s do something fresh and new – my choice will be a scent I don’t know yet.

    If I would be the lucky one to win my choice is Ormonde Jayne – Orris Noir or Xerjoff – Irisss.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    two things particularly came to mind. First of all, the mention of carrot reminded me how Turin has mentioned that Lutens original formula of Iris Silver Mist also has hints of carrot and original iris actually gives carrot smell sometimes.

    The article also solved one puzzle for me. i have smelled iris flower and could rarely smell anything even though in fragrances, especially in Dior Homme, its one of the most mysterious note with both masculine and feminine traits (if fragrance notes had sexual orientation, Iris will definitely be bi-sexual). So now i understand that the real iris essence comes not from the flower but the root. I thought Iris is a bit like Lily of the Flower (which cannot be extracted) though not as extreme because it probably still probably gives very very low yield. It may truly be one of those flowers which has been historically celebrated due to the magic of its essence than the smell of the actual flower though it is indeed eye-pleasing

    The fragrances i am interested in are Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Le Labo Iris 39, Xerjoff Irisss, Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Parfums DelRae Mythique, and House of Matriarach Francesca

  • I did not understand the complete significance of the iris and its symbolism to the French (until this article). It reminds me of the evil character, Milady, from the Three Musketeers and the fleur de lis brand on her shoulder which ultimately reveals her to be a villain.

    I’m in the U.S. and am interested in:
    Mythique
    Ambre Alcheme
    Impossible Iris
    Orris Noir

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Iris has always been my favourite note in perfumery because it adds a powdery, understated elegance to perfumes. The article was highly informative and it was interesting to find out that orris is long-lasting and usually used as a fixative. I’m just curious as to how it is actually used as a top note, or dominant feature in some perfumes, such as the ones featured in this draw. Do the perfumers ‘overload’ the perfume with orris butter? Additionally, it was fascinating to read about how the iris plant is ‘full of contradictions’. It has been used in both masculine and feminine fragrances due to its versatility. The article also mentioned that iris blends well with certain ingredients such as ambrette seeds, cedar etc. I’d wish to find out if there are any perfumes out there that have defied the typical combinations used with iris which makes them stand out, or if such compositions would even be appealing to the nose in the first place! For example, what would an iris oud smell like? Or an aquatic, ozonic iris? Well, one can imagine!

    If I were fortunate enough to win this draw, I would love to have the following fragrances: Xerjoff Irisss, Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Le Labo Iris 39, Parfums DelRae Mythique and Parfums d’Empire Equistrius.

    Thank you for hosting this draw!

  • The very first iris perfume. I bought was Hiris and I have treasured iris fragrances ever since
    Iris is a chameleon and can be cold and metallic or warm
    the Lys in the word Elysian Fields? Could it be a reference to the irises that grow in this mythological place ?
    I would be happy to win any of these fragrances and winning Francesca , xerjoff irisss, parfums delrae mythique, ormonde Jayne orris noir would be a dream come true
    Thank you for presenting us with the story of the iris as I haven’t read much about its history and uses anywhere else
    Thank you to the sponsorships

  • Wonderful draw and article, thank you! I was fascinated by the intricate process of obtaining the orris butter and also by its culinary uses:its presence in the Ras Al Hanout spice mix was completely unknown to me.the delicate and at the same time majestic beauty of this flower has always captivated me and it’s no wonder so many artists have been inspired by it.the wild sensuality of the VanGogh irises,the symmetry and the dignified elegance of the Japanese drawings, the mysterious and moody photograph taken by Robert,the mythical dark vibe of the Georgia’s painting,they all showcase so beautifully the different facets of this queen of flowers.It doesn’t reveal itself easily and it’s not easy to love,but no thing worth knowing is.thank you again for a very inspiring article and for the great artwork!My fragrance choices are: Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris,Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Le Labo Iris 39,Xerjoff Irisss, Maria Candida Gentile Burlesque.

  • What a great opportunity to win!
    Iris is my very favourite note in a perfume world. What I love about this note is that depending on what part of the flower we take and what other notes we use as its company it can either smell flowery and ethereal, or powdery and almost almondy or woody, even dark rooty and carroty. That’s really a big variety of smells just from one perfume ingredient! I also agree that the purple color of iris symbolizes wisdom. I know a few people who are iris lovers in perfumery and at the same time they’re very reliable and knowledgable. Iris being one of the most precious perfume ingredients makes me not surprised that the flower needs to be handled with extreme love and care and that its roots need drying as long as 3 to 5 years so the high price is adequate here.
    And I didn’t know that iris essence can be used in flavouring to obtain a raspberry taste. Now I know why Ramon Monegal combined iris with raspberries in Impossible Iris.

    If I win I would like to obtain Le Labo Iris 39, Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Parfum d’Empire Equistrius, Xerjoff Irisss, Delrae Mythique and MCG Burlesque

  • I live in the Mediteranean, and hope to grow Iris, will have to consult with my nursery man about the species used for perfumery.
    I love these articles, and as always, have taken note of the suggested companions to go with Iris in a blend. I have a very nice, quite aged tincture of Iris (that is simply much more affordable than buying the Orris Butter) that I have begun adding to my blends.
    I find that in large ammounts, it can sorta dampen the freshness and lightness out of a blend, but in small ammounts, enhanse.
    Perfumes I would like (I only wear natural perfumes)
    Christi Meshell of House of Matriarach 15 ml of Francesca
    Elise Pearlstine 100% NATURAL 15ml Ambre Alcheme
    I see that it says US only, I have a sister living in the Us, so I would have it shipped to her (if I were so lucky as to win) and she can send it my way.
    Thank you for this fun opportunity
    Hemla

  • I need to take Mythique and Impossible Iris back, my eyes skipped the “USA only” note. Sorry.

  • I enjoyed reading about the iris. I never knew it was edible, that the Egyptians used it, or that it came in yellow and tht the yellow iris denoted passion…yellow does not seem like a very passionate color to me. I love the Van Gogh irises. My favorite iris fragrance is Chanel #19 Poudre, although I have not tried too many iris fragrances. I would love to try all of these, especially:-Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire
    -Xerjoff Irisss
    -Iris 39 from Le Labo
    -Orris Noir from Ormonde Jayne
    -Infusion d”Iris from Prada.

    Thank you.

  • Another great article full of explained mysteries! I had no idea that the Fleur de Lys is actually an Iris and not a Lily! Who knew?? I love Middle Eastern cuisine and had no idea that Orris is used in Ras el Hanout. I’m going to try my hand at love potions made of Iris and adding the cinnamon to really make them potent.

    I live in the US and my choices are: Xerjoff Iriss, Le Labo Iris 39, Ramon Monegal’s Impossible Iris, Equistrius, and House of Matriarch. Thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Iris is a note that has always alluded me and I usually don’t gravitate towards predominant iris fragrances. There was very little I knew and so much that I learned from reading this article- that the three petals symbolize faith, wisdom and valour, that the root (and not the flower) is what gives it the floral aroma and that oriis is an ingredient in gin. The one bit of information that most intrigued me was that the fresh root may be used to remove freckles…as a child the sun always brought out an onslaught of freckles on my face which I did not like at all….such a pity I didn’t know back then the solution to this problem!
    I live in the US and I would love the opportunity to win Impossible Iris, Burleque, Orris Noir, Equestrian, Infusion d”Iris and for the natural Francesca.
    thank you for this unbelievable draw!
    And, despite the snow we are expecting tonight, I am happy that spring is around the corner 🙂 !!! Happy Spring to all at CaFleureBon!

  • Well, I have been wondering when you would get around to an Iris draw! and here we are…
    I knew nothing about the manufacture of Orris butter, and found this fascinating.
    I don’t own any of the perfumes listed, but I am fascinated by the chameleon characteristics of the Iris- from translucent to earthly, “masculine” to “feminine” (terms which I whole heartedly resist), floral to woody- the breadth of possibilities which Iris provides is certainly unique.
    As somebody who is interested in the heterogeneous and incorporative possibilities of scent (the defiance of types and genres which perfumery can embrace), Iris is a perfect “case study” in plurality and difference- always refusing to be reduced to a simple idea or explanation.
    My first choice would be Xerjoff’s Irisss (I have been very curious about this scent), followed by Ormonde Jayne’s Orris Noir. My natural choice would Be Francesca.
    As always, thank you for another amazing draw!

  • Anonymous Lily says:

    The part I wrote about liking that the root can be used for beading didn’t show up in the post for some reason..but I do think that’s pretty fascinating! *wonders if those beads smell lovely*, as I wouldn’t mind scented beads. Sorry again! *facepalms to the head*

  • Igor Kipnis says:

    This was an interesting article with great history and background of it multi-uses in both love and war. Its very ironic that such flower when used incorrectly can bring out “destruction” of the body but given “love” and “gentleness” can bloom into something beautiful – such as amazingly scented perfume and be even inspiration of art itself. But who knew it also had medicinal qualities as well? I would consider that only a bonus to already established characteristics of the orris root. Having studied plants before, there is only a handful of flowering plants that are capable of generating medicinal qualities but knowing that Iris can do that in addition to having such wonderful scent is a thing of beauty and war.

  • Igor Kipnis says:

    Apologizes, forgot to include the list as well

    1.7 oz of Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris
    50 ml Iris 39 from Le Labo
    15ml of Xerjoff Irisss
    4 x10 ml Orris Noir
    Mythique by Parfums DelRae
    Maria Candida Gentile 15 ml of Burlesque
    50ml of Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire
    Prada Infusion d’Iris
    15ml Ambre Alcheme
    15 ml of Francesca

  • A few years ago I started my Perfume Journey with a love for orientals, in particular gourmands. I didn’t think I would ever like ‘florals’, considering them too girly and feminine. Though I am a woman I have always been drawn to androgynous fashions in both clothes and jewelry. Despite this I did hold out some hope for rose, the most heavily symbolized of all flowers.

    So, three years later and I have to admit that the flower which did, finally, catch me in its gauzy snare is none other that the iris! Powdery and intellectual, as in Prada’s Infusion, or as pungent as paradise in Serge’s silver mist, my nose keeps sniffing for more.

    What I found most intriguing in this article is that a single irone, alpha-irone, (found in orris butter) is entirely responsible for the characteristic smell of an entirely different flower – the violet. It makes the whole world seem like a beautiful hologram!

  • Sorry, forgot to add that I am not in America and I would love to try Iris 39, Burlesque or Irisss.

  • Bearded irises are my absolute favourite flower and only in the last couple of years have I realized some irises are, in fact, fragrant. I love iris in perfume now, after initially finding it too carroty. I had no idea that the fleur-de-lis — a design i have always found pretty –was based on the iris, though, of course, it makes far more sense than the lily in terms of appearance!

    I would be thrilled beyond measure to win:
    1. Xerjoff Irisss (one of my very favorite perfumes, but sadly out of my price range)
    2. Le Labo Mythique
    3. OJ Orris Noir
    4. Le Labo Iris
    5. Maria Gentile Burlesque
    5. House of Matriarch Francesca

  • Yet anothe beautiful article filled with so many stories from ancient Greece to today , art, medicine, poetry. It is such a delicate flower, every spring I try to find some wild ones at a special spot I have located near our holiday home, they are white and with a lovely soft smell that you want to taste. The rhizome is another story, dark and evoking the senses and appropriate to cast love spells to the odject of your affection.
    Thank you for the draw and although I would love them all my choices have to be: Iris 39, Irisss, Oris Noir, Burlesque & Equistrius.

  • just breathe says:

    I know very little about iris so reading this was very educational for me :)! My favorite was reading that the root removes freckles! A natural beauty secret :)!
    It would be amazing to win any of these great fragrances and I am in the US so for the natural I would pick Francesca.
    thanks for the draw!

  • Sorry for the extra long post

    I have had an ongoing fascination with Iris since I was a little kid. I remember very vividly how one spring day, going out of my house on the street to play I saw all the kids of my neighborhood with armfuls of white Irises, their lush frilled petals glistening under the bright sun. I was mesmerized by the beauty of that sight and had to find where these exotic blossoms grew. They all grew in a small patch of land that was attached to a small, seemingly abandoned house at the end of the street. There used to live a lonely old woman there that was then dead or had left to live somewhere else but her love for that flowers was so great that it was the only thing she grew in her garden. A field of Irises, white as linen sheets, surrounded by a low stonework wall and shaded by almond trees in full bloom. Without hesitation I skipped the wall to enter the paradisal garden and instantly went for the flowers, gathering as many as I could carry in my small arms, to offer as a gift to my mother. I was so drunk with excitement that I didn’t hear the squeaky door opening behind me and I was startled by the shouts of the hunchback old woman (apparently not gone and very much alive) that came after me with a broomstick at hand, held as a weapon. Scared to death, but refusing to let go of my trophy, I skipped the wall for a second time, fell, scraped my knees, got up and ran to my house. The old woman tried to pursuit me but gave up after a while (can you imagine for a second the guilt I’d have to live with for the rest of my life had she suffered a heart attack?). Ever since that incident I was semi-affraid of that house and avoided it on purpose, only went by it during spring to steal glances at the blooming Irises when I was sure no one was in there to see me.

    Now, imagine my surprise when years later I found out that the note that was almost in every perfume I ever liked came from that scentless flower that had always been my constant fascination.

    I have done my own research on Orris and I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know about it, I didn’t however know about the applications in flavor (thank you for that piece of information). Now I have an information for you too and for most lovers of Orris. I know that a certain company (I’d better not name it here) has for some years now developed a method that speeds up the maturation of the rhizome significantly, shrinking the whole process in a matter of weeks and using only natural means for that matter making it at last cost effective to produce concrete. Sadly, the benefits of these progress have not yet reached the natural perfumers and all of us who are fans of their creations, as this company caters to the needs of bigger perfume houses instead of the independent producers. Lets hope that their cheeper concrete will be widely available in the future so that more people can revel in the magnificence of its scent.

    My choices from the perfumes listed (I am an international reader) would be Iris 39 or Equistrius

  • The Canadian Province of Quebec adopted the Fleur de Lis on their provincial flag during the time Maurice Duplessis served as the 16th Prime Minister of the province. I’ve seen the symbol all my life being a citizen of Canada and now I understand a bit more behind the people and their values.

    What I was very intrigued to find out is that Orris is considered a “Moon” plant for digging into the unconscious. I’m thrilled to find this out as it’s another tool I can use when I make astrological signature scents. Usually I’ve just used Lemon, Melissa or Chamomile but this opens up the options. And since it’s associated with a scepter and therefolre war, it’s also great when I’m looking for an oil to help with Mars issues.

    My choices would be: Amber Alcheme, Francesca, Mythique, Orris Noir.

    Thanks for the great info and the draw.
    Suzy

  • I was a bit surprised to learn that orris root is an ingredient in some kinds of gin. I’ve always loved a good martini, probably because of the wonderful aromatics. Now I will be looking for the orris root in my next martini.

    One little story missing from the article is the use of irises in Japanese gardens. Very often you will find a swampy area in a formal Japanese garden with a zig zag wooden bridge crossing a field of irises. This so-called yatsuhashi bridge is designed to fool evil spirits, which may be chasing you. Supposedly the evil spirits only travel in straight lines, so the zig zag bridge through the irises stops them, and you can be free of your problems by traversing the bridge. In this way iris plays a role in relieving anxiety. Wikipedia says that the essential oil **from the flowers** is used in aromatherapy as a sedative for babies!

    In my amateur explorations of scents and olfaction I’ve found iris to be one of the more challenging aromas, mainly because I can barely smell it. The stuff is so expensive that the pure samples available at an affordable price are so dilute that one can barely smell them. The one I do have smells fresh and clean, with a bit of that smell of an old woman’s purse. Maybe this is due to my grandmother carrying in her handbag a small amount of what today would be considered a vintage perfume, probably containing elements of iris.

    I like the idea that iris root needs to be aged for at least five years so that the natural fats and oils are oxidized and chemically transformed into odorous molecules. It’s fascinating that some of the finest scents, such as ambergris and sandalwood, also must go through this kind of maturation–a natural chemical process that transforms them into the exotic essences they become. You have to love this concept of transformation, which conveys such a rich sense that perhaps a perfume containing iris will be transformative for the wearer as well.

    If I win, I’d love to get the LeLabo Iris 39 as I was in their shop a few weeks ago in NYC and simply loved everything I smelled in there. Alternatively the Xerjoff Irisss would be fabulous. Of course any of the other ones would be a treat as well such as Mythique by Parfums DelRae. I live in Vancouver, Canada, but it’s easy to pop across the border to pick up a USA perfume in Washington state where I have a mailbox.

  • Mary Carol says:

    I did not know that the three petals of the iris symbolize faith, wisdom and valor and liked reading about this. I also was not aware that the root has to be dried for three to five years before it can be used in the making of perfume. This is an informative article with good illustrations. Thank you for the draw. My choices would be: Impossible Iris, Le Labo Iris 39, Irisss, Orris Noir, Burlesque, Equistrius, Infusion d’Iris, Tambela 15 ml 100% Natural Iris Palida Orris, Francesca.

  • I didn’t know Iris was a Greek goddess!! How wonderful that she heralds the arrival of spring. When I look out my kitchen window and see my neighbor’s irises, that means spring is here!

    Would like to try Impossible Iris, Iris 39, Orris Noir, Ambre Alcheme, or Francesca.

  • rosiegreen says:

    How wonderful to have Iris as the celebration of spring post. When I was young we lived on an old farm with many beautiful flowers. Every spring I would wait anxiously for the iris planted against the old pumphouse to bloom in masses of purple and the lovely grape kool-aid scent. I never knew that iris had so many uses in food, flavoring for gin, and medicines. I also have a pilgrimage each spring to the closest Japanese garden to gaze at the koi pond with its surrounding of wooden walkways and lovely blooming iris. I live in the U.S. and would love to try
    1) Equistrus
    2)Impossible Iris
    3)Ambre Alcheme
    4) Francesca

  • Marion Low says:

    What a delightfull article. I had no idea Fleur de Lys represents the iris, and not the lily. I especially love the idea of the three petals signifying faith, wisdom and valor to the city of New Orleans and her people. Love and War, Venus and Mars, Yin and Yang: poetry indeed.
    Thanks for a chance to win anyone, but I could get lost in Impossible Iris, Irisss, or Orris Noir. Having samples of Elise’s creations, Amber Alchemie must be special.
    “Orris root and anise was mentioned as a perfume associated with Edward IV in 1480”. I wonder in which paper or letter…as a member of the Richard III Society, I would be very interested to know.

  • Thank you Elise for sharing the love on Iris.
    Behind every famous God there is often a much uncredited woman who is a Goddess in her own right and dare I say, infinitely more interesting! I will stand fervently beside this statement until the Gay God of Art, Culture and Outrageous Behavior is named!
    So my friends, lets examine the case of Iris and Hermes. Iris pre-dates Hermes I gather, enough to have been seen nursing him as an infant on her breast – Generous to a fault our gentle Goddess. They are both messengers of the Gods but it is Hermes who is more mainstream- famed for his motivation in communication. Quick witted and often cunning he must have bored of the menial tasks of too-ing and froo-ing between the Gods, acquiring a reputation for being quick fingered out of hours. He did make the gossip columns with outrageous behaviour, parading his beautiful naked torso and displaying a great six pack among other attributes as many an artist through the ages has diligently recorded! Sadly he doesn’t seem to have made the Arts and Culture scene however!
    Iris seems more demure managing to keep some clothing on. Equally as beautiful as Hermes, she was a linguist and a convincing orator. Having learned here that she is also Goddess of the Rainbow perhaps she should be the patron saint of Gaydom? Again courtesy of our writer, I learn that she leads women’s souls on their journey to the Elysian fields where the favored of Zeus enjoy a life of idyllic happiness. I do sense some spirit of indulgence and I’m sensing Art and Culture.
    Perceivably a sobering occupation this wandering through the underworld, but with a “Somewhere over the Rainbow” perfect outcome I know Iris knew how to have a good time. My Gaydar is prickling again.
    I thank Elise for her abundance of information.

    My choices: Christi Meshell of House of Matriarach ” Francesca”, Elise Pearlstine’s Ambre Alcheme , Xerjoff Irisss , Orris Noir from Ormonde Jayne. I live in NZ but I have a US address as well.

  • I love how the powdery rice note blends so nicely with the powdery iris note in Equistrius. They complement each other perfectly. I live in the US, and I would choose Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Parfum d’Empire Equistrius, Xerjoff Irisss, or House of Matriarch Francesca. Thank you!

  • What a lovely article! I love iris, especially the deep blue/purple flowers. It was very interesting to learn of the many medicinal and mythical properties of iris. How very romantic to blow iris powder on the clothes of the object of your desire.

    I am in the US. I would choose: Impossible Iris, Irisss, Equistrus, Orris Noir, and Ambre Alchemie

  • I love the look of the beautiful Iris for as long as i can remember but only recently became enamored with its delicate scent. I particularly enjoyed learning all about the Greek mythology and the imagery was superb. I would love to win Mythique by Parfums DelRae,Orris Noir from Ormonde Jayne and Ambre Alcheme. I live in the U.S and thanks again

  • helical gnome says:

    Thanks for this article. I love Iris and its buttery smell. What a contradiction is Iris’s history and how incredible that all human history is imbued by Iris! From its egyptian roots symbolizing power, even previous to the greek myth of the rainbow, to King Clovis angelic vision of a golden iris as a symbol of transformation and religious encounter, Iris seems to be there whispering her message. The Catholic church saw in Iris’s beauty a symbol of purity thus associating it with the virgin Mary, yet Georgia O’Keefe’s Black Iris paiting seems to capture a deeper side of Iris, its sexual suggestiveness.
    I wonder if all flowers carry within them, till some extent, this dual forces. Flowers show their sex, innocently, out of sheer excess and beauty; they know no fear. They expose themselves because they are bursting from their center, throbbing to be carried by the wind, to be taken by the wind. Iris however possesses all it needs, pistil and stamen, to reproduce itself, yet it implodes showing her innocence. Iris has three chambers or ovaries and this excess is not banal. I think it signifies life’s innocent lust, Isn’t Iris, in this regard, an emblem of desire? I think O’keefe knew flowers’ message. You can see it in all her paintings. Even the boney “Ram’s Head White Hollyhock and Little Hills” looks like an Iris or like desire.

  • Great article! Irises are one of my favorite flowers and I love orris in so many fragrances. I’ve read about the process of distillation and I knew how costly the concrete is. I didn’t know that iris root is used in cooking. So I just went on a search for Ras el Hanout recipes. Of course none of them mentioned orris. But I did find an article or two about the key ingredients when it’s made in Morroco and orris root was included.

    As for fragrances, I would choose Orris Noir, Impossible Iris, Irisss and Mythique.

  • helical gnome says:

    Please excuse my madness. I just realized I didn’t list the perfumes I would be honored to get. I got too excited thinking about Iris and O’keefe.
    So here they are: Orris noir, Impossible Iris, Irisss, and House of Matriarach

  • This is a wonderful article. I have loved the Iris since I was a little girl. My Grandmother had a huge garden where we spent alot of time when she watched me and it was full of these beautiful flowers.
    I had no idea that it had been used for a snuff to clear the head and for a laxative.
    It was also great to know that one of my favorite artists, Van Gogh was inspired by the Japanese drawings of Irises.
    I live in the USA and would like to win Xerjoff Irisss, Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Orris Noir, Francesca and Mythique.
    Thanks for the draw!!

  • When the gods walked the earth many ages ago there lived a beautiful widower named Akaterine. Akaterine never remarried when her love her husband was killed in the Trojan war. Akaterine had many suitors but her heart never opened to another man.
    Each day, for fifteen years, she planted beautiful flowers in her garden
    on the hill. They were a dazzling array of colors, yellow for passion, blue for courage, purple for wisdom, white for purity (which is the meaning of Akaterine) and although her heart was broken her garden thrived
    The hearts of the people of the village were gladdened by this spectacular site
    One moonlit night, Akaterine could not sleep and walked restlessly by the banks of the river.Suddenly the sky became bright and blinded her. She looked up and saw Athena, the huntress who mistook her for a deer.Akaterine’s heart was pierced by a flaming arrow and she died
    Her garden soon began to wither and her spirit cried to the gods . Only one one god took pity on her, the goddess Iris, the goddess of the rainbow. She gathered Akaterine’s spirit in her arms and flew to the Elysian fields where Akaterine reunited with her beloved. Iris returned to the garden that Akaterine had tended for so many years, her iridescent wings glowing. She planted her scepter in the dry earth and the garden sprung to life. The Villagers were awed by the sight and named the flowers iris. Every spring since times long ago Akaterine’s garden blooms once more. Some irises are bearded like her beloved husband.
    If I should be so lucky to win this draw I would pay homage to my character Akaterine
    In my perfume garden I would plant Xerjoff Iriss, Parfums D Empire equistrius, le labo iris 39 and monegal impossible iris
    Amber alchemy would be my natural choice

  • I am amazed by this article’s information 🙂 Firstly, I always see the Fleur de lys symbol on ancient French motifs, but i never knew that they were actually iris flowers and its 3 petals!! Secondly, i always heard for the Greek Goddess who path has flowers growing out of them, but I never knew her name was Iris 😉 So this was a really great piece of article to me. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, the interesting fact about its use in perfumery is that, I actually never knew the scent comes from the roots. I never tried any iris scents before, other than smelling Prada Infusion d’Iris.

    Not to forget lastly, the mythical uses of Iris scents 😉 getting the person I love to love me back, oh how wonderful!

    New knowledge everyday! 🙂

    For my choice of perfume: Iris 39 from Le Labo, Xerjoff Irisss, Francesca, Ambre Alcheme, Orris Noir

  • This was a tremendously informative article and, with the exception of the O’Keefe and Van Gogh paintings, everthing was news to me! I think I most like the idea of its use as a love potion, but the chemistry of the distillation process resulting in a butter type substance is pretty cool.
    I would choose Iris 39, Francesca, Orris Noir, Burlesque or Xerjoff Irisss.

  • mariotgomez says:

    My wedding fragrances was Prada’s Infusion d’Iris (EDT) and my bridezilla moment was getting Irises (out of season) and white orchids. Yes, I did get my Irises.

    As my love for Iris scent grew, Parfums Delrae’s Mythique made it into my collection, then Federic Malle’s Iris Poudre was added.

    It was a surprise for me to find out that the fleur de lys is not a lilly; but an iris. I had always been attracted to the design, now I know why.

    The questing to list “AS MANY PERFUMES YOU WOULD LIKE TO WIN IN YOUR CHOICES…” All of them of course, but can’t be greedy, that’s bad Karma.

    I live in the USA and would choose Iris 39, Francesca, Orris Noir, Burlesque, Xerjoff Irisss or Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris.

    Good luck to all.

  • I loved this article. I am a huge fan of iris (in perfume and the flower) and it was interesting to read about the different processes for extracting iris scent. My choices would be House of Matriarach 15 ml of Francesca, Xerjoff Irisss, OJ Orris Noir, Elise Pearlstine’s Ambre Alcheme and Maria Candida Gentile 15 ml of Burlesque. What a great draw and read.

  • Thank you for the wealth of information about the iris! I learned so much reading this article, and am intrigued by Iris, the Greek Goddess, harbinger of Spring. Especially now, that my soul yearns for the opening buds and bird songs of the season, Iris is the symbol of this reawakening. It’s interesting to realize that as the different colors of the iris have such diverse meanings behind them, “purple symbolizing wisdom and compliments, the blue is faith and hope, the yellow is passion and the white is purity,” so does the Goddess Iris have her own diversity. The double meaning behind her name, coming both from messenger and rainbow, is significant to this Goddess of sea and sky. As Spring approaches, I crave the scent of iris, and come to desire and understand its contradictory nature. Even in art, it simultaneously symbolizes purity and passion as its very colors do, as well.

    I live in the US and would be so lucky to win any of these, especially 1.7 oz of Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris, Maria Candida Gentile 15 ml of Burlesque, 50ml of Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire, and Elise Pearlstine 100% NATURAL 15ml Ambre Alcheme. Thanks so much for the draw!

  • I live for these note articles! So good. I really liked reading about the many different uses of iris. Beads? Chew toys for babies? Awesome!

    I also didn’t realize that the fleur de lys is an iris, not a lily! Makes sense though. Also I love the imagery of the goddess Iris and her rainbows… gorgeous. As far what I would like to win I’d be thrilled with any of the following:

    House of Matriarch Francesca
    Xerjoff Irisss
    Parfums d’Empire Equestrius
    Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris
    Maria Candida Gentile Burlesque
    Parfums Del Rae Mythique

  • What a fascinating article! I have always loved the beautiful design of the Fleur de Lys but never realized that it was based on an iris and not a lily. Love that the three petals represent faith, wisdom, and valour and that the iris is a contradiction of gentleness and strength, masculinity and femininity.

    I live in the US and would be thrilled with any of the following:
    Iris 39 by Le Labo
    Monegal Impossible Iris
    Mythique by Parfums DelRae
    Equistrius by Parfum d’Empire

    Thank you for this generous draw.

  • I still find it interesting that when we talk about iris notes we usually mean orris. I tried imagining harvesting a ton of rhizome and then working so very hard to finally get 2 kilos of orris butter. And if I made a mistake along the way all the work would have been in vain. I have great admiration for the many unsung heroes of this industry, just like the distillers and farmers who are such an integral part of the whole process. But sometimes I just like to stop thinking about all that and just enjoy the scent memories.. 🙂

    I would love to get Iris 39 by Le Labo, Irisss by Xerjoff, Mythique by Parfums DelRae, or Burlesque by Maria Candida Gentile. I am an international Reader, but if I was in the US I would add Francesca by House of Matriarch to the list.

  • So much iris knowledge out there – thanks all for your stories and for your interest in reading about iris/orris notes. This was fun for me and I learned a number of things too.

  • The Victor Victoria note
    That gets many an artist’s vote
    Is a potion of love
    When blown from above
    Onto sheets under which you will float.

    I would be thrilled to win Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris or Le Labo Iris 39.

  • Greetings from the Big Apple ! I must say this was an outstanding article about the Iris note ! To this more or less newcomer to the Iris note, I found it educational and inspiring. Articles that feature different notes, trigger a obsessive search for me to find something that I would fall in Love them. The first Iris centric scent that caused my heart to skip a beat was Iris D’Argent by Keiko Mecheri. I am always on a hunt for another Iris scent that will Wow me … Will it be Ramons Iris or Le Labo’s Iris ??? Time will only tell … Thank you !!!

  • as usual, elise provides historical, botanical & magical information!

    i am gob smacked at the breadth of the symbolism of the iris- from pharaohs to the french, from war to the honoring of wives.

    reflecting both genders, in it’s stalks and flowers, it encompasses humanity and holds us up to the heavens- royal in our sacred source.

    i was surprised to learn it is a medicine for nausea- as the first time i inhaled orris butter i found myself in a sickeningly sweet torpor. it inspires me to seek out verona orris as teething aids. certainly a more healthful practice than the chewing of various plastics.

    my choices would be, naturally, Ambre Alchemy from Tambela (thank you for letting us know of the name change) and Francesca from House of Matriarch.

    thank you for this heavenly message/article!

  • This is an excellent essay on the wondrous iris, “fair among the fairest”. I never heard of orris butter until I became enamored of fragrance. The first time I heard the term, I thought it referred to the soft, yellow veining inside the petal. How amazing that it comes from the multi-functional root that tantalizes our sense of smell (perfume) and taste (gin!),while healing us from head to…toe (so to speak).

    The choices available for the draw are stellar. My favorites might be:

    Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris
    Parfums DelRae Mythique
    Xerjoff Iriss
    Equistrius from Parfum d’Empire
    Iris 39 from Le Labo
    Francesca by House of Matriarch (I recently discovered this House, thanks to Cafleurebon, and I really love their fragrances!)

  • Thank you, Elise, very informative. The thing I was most surprised by was the Fleur de Lys bein iris, since I had always assumed it was lily. Iris makes more sense.

    I would like to win Xerjoff Irissss, LeLabo Iris 39, P de E Equistrius, or House of Matriarch Francesca.

    Thanks!

  • Such an informative post with beautiful illustrations
    Fascinating to learn that orris can be used as a love potion or teething
    1kilo at $100,000 euros I wonder how much real orris is used in the iris perfumes we buy?
    Such a rainbow of choices
    If I was so lucky to win:
    Le Labo 39
    Maria Candida Gentile burlesque
    DelRae Mythique
    Prada infusion d’iris
    Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir
    And of course amber alcheme
    Today we had alot of snow where I live and I don’t think it will feel like Spring soon
    Please may the Goddess Iris smile on me

  • The whole post is full of interesting information but the last paragraph is the most important, at least to me. I can’t help but completely agree with it. I find iris/orris note in perfumery to be many different things, but along with oud, the one that directly speaks to my subconsiousness and transports me to places where man lived in constant and intertwined connection with the earth.

    My perfume choices include Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Xerjofff Irissss, Burlesque by Maria Candida Gentile and Francesca by the House of M.

  • Great article! This is my fav flower and most probably my fav note in fragrances. I adore its look and the elegance. It looks distant and so delicate. And the smell of fresh flowers … Heaven.

    I didn’t know about the culinary use and of course about its medicinal use. Really interesting. I hope one day I will be able to find a good quality orris butter and absolue.

    From the draw I would pick in the exact order of fav: Irisss, Iris 39, Orris Noir, Impossible Iris and Amber alcheme.

    Thank you!

  • My top choice would be HOM (because I am moved to tears by the beauty of The Maj), Xerjoff Irisss (because it is much more wearable than Irish Siver Mist), Impossible Iris, Mythique, and Burlesque.

  • susie frankel says:

    Iris, Greek goddess – flowers grow where she walks..rainbows…I lived in a house in Berkeley for seven years where we painted a rainbow around the front door and you walked thru the Rainbow to enter our home…what fun it was!
    Today is the Vernal Equinox and I would love to spring into any of the following so I, too, can be a goddess of Spring:

    Iris 39, Mythique, Equistrius, Prada Infusion D’Iris or Ambre Alcheme. … 5, an uneven number!

  • Iris and violet are my favorite floral notes. Thank you so much for paying respectful homage to this remarkably malleable everyday/exotic and humble/haute flower.

    Billowy blooms so common in spring gardens
    who would know you hid your pirate’s treasure in the dirt
    or that time and tenderness alone can reveal
    the pale rainbow-colored X where iris marks my heart

    my picks:

    Xerjoff Irisss (longtime lemming)
    Prada Infusion d’Iris (a treasure hiding in plain sight)
    Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir (this woman can do no wrong)
    House of Matriarch Francesca (love their orange blossom oM)

  • Being a very big fan of mythology (especially Greek) I knew much of the lore of Iris (the goddess and Hera’s messenger) and being a mad parfumista I knew a lot of the chemistry and history of the actual flower. What I did not know was that a fleur-de-lys was actually an IRIS…but looking at it now, it makes total sense. This flower (and its beautiful blossoms) its stems and roots never cease to make me swoon. From Hermes’ HIRIS (“the coldest meanest greenest iris ever” -EvaR) to Iris Ukiyoe, DIOR Homme Intense to DSH’s Route de Iris I ADORE THIS FLOWER!!!

    Perfumes I would like to possibly win (and why)

    Ramon Moegal Impossible Iris (never tried his line)
    Le Labo Iris 39 *sighs lovingly*
    XERJOFF Irisss WOW! Just WOW!!!! (thanks Bondgirl)
    OJ Orris Noir (they had me at NOIR) never tried this
    Parfums del Rae MYTHIQUE-name AND orris? Um, yeah!
    House of Matriarch FRANCESCA (simply superb!)

    Thanks to Elise (once again) for an informative well written and researched article!! Thanks to all the sponsors who so graciously offered these wonderful perfumes as prizes…and thanks to CaFleureBon (as always) for bring it all together! 😉

    Smell swell y’all, and be well!

  • Dear Elise, Wonderful and so well written. Orris has been a magical substance for me for years 😉 I loved the last paragraph of this article. “Like the myths and legends surrounding it, the iris plant is full of contradictions. Feminine and passionate, masculine and warlike, bearded and delicate with a fragrant root that is both bitter and ethereally floral. Orris requires patience and diligence to reap its reward but it is oh so worth it.” I would love Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris, LL Iris 39 and House of Matriarch Francesca. I already own Elise’s and yes it is beautiful..

  • I am not surprised by the history of iris manipulated in this article. I believe all the flowers, plants, seeds, spices and other natural delights have been one time or another the symbols or myths and greater part of human history. Undeniably iris is one of my favorite notes in a fragrance. Its variations from bitterness to cleanliness to leathery chameleon to earthiness, No wonder iris positions itself among many other nature gifted pleasures.
    Again learning about the iris goddess, iris uses and variations and its cultural aspects presented in this article add another level of magic to the notes of iris knowing it has been evolved so meticulously throughout the universe.
    To me what is so interesting is that we are able to taste and fetch this olfactory experience of Iris in so many wonderful fragrances and spices and then really relate to the nature and history of iris mentioned in this article.
    This really adds to why we are constantly drawn to smells because it can create that mythical existence which then we learned about each note. Next time I smell any Iris perfume, this article will surface to my mind making me part of that existence.

    I would like Ambre Alcheme, Impossible Iris OR Le Labo Iris39 OR Xerjoff iriss
    USA

    Thanks

  • Surprising facts in this post. I did not realize that the different colors of the Iris Flower had so many different meanings: different meanings: purple symbolizing wisdom and compliments, the blue is faith and hope, the yellow is passion and the white is purity. Very interesting, also did not know about the culinary use and medicinal use. Its not something that necessarily comes to mind when I think about Iris. I must say I never really appreciated Iris in perfume until about two years ago, they tended to smell very root-y. Now I appreciate the delicateness of Iris fragrances. They are so easy to wear. I recently fell in love with the Prada Iris Absolue, so did my co-workers when i wore it to work.

    The following iris poem is from an old catalog of “Green Gate Gardens 1931” which used to be in Bennettsville, South Carolina. The owner’s name was Gabrielle Drake McColl. The poem is as follows:

    (Untitled)

    The garden with its little gate of green,
    Invites you to enter, and view mysteries unseen,
    Its vine laden bowers and overhanging trees,
    The air filled with sweetness, the hum of the bees,
    The flagged walks with Iris galore,
    Of most beautiful coloring, unknown before,
    Pink, white, purple, yellow, azure blue,
    Mixed and mingled of every hue,
    You come away wondering, can more beauty be seen
    Than in the garden with its little gate of green.

    Winstead.

    Love this poem and love Iris in perfume, I would choose:

    Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris
    Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir

    Thank you so much for these beautiful offerings 🙂

  • Spring was my mother’s favorite season and irises were her favorite blooms–specifically Iris Germanica, the Latin name for the bearded iris, as I only just now learned by reading this wonderful piece.

    She was born and raised in Colorado, where her father owned a small orchard and maintained a large, terraced garden overflowing with flowers, including rows and rows of irises. Following medical school, internship and residency (she was something of a trailblazer; there were few women becoming medical doctors in the 1940s), she and my father moved to Southeast Alaska, where she opened her own private practice. I was adopted as an infant some years later, but long before nurturing me she nurtured her own garden, cajoling lush, beautiful blooms from rich but unrelentingly soggy northern rain-forest soil.

    My father lost a battle with brain cancer in 1980, when I was 17, and in 1985, while still residing in Alaska, my mother was struck by a brain aneursym. Subsequent surgery left her without a short-term memory or, sadly, a sense of smell. For more than 20 years I cared for her in my home, and she seemed happy to gaze upon the large bouquet of fake irises I always kept within view: To her they were always fresh, always new, and every day she’d look at them and say, with wonder and awe, “oh, how beautiful!”

    She passed away recently, at the age of 90, under in-hospital hospice care following a brief illness, but one of the last things she saw before her eyes could no longer see was the vase of purple Japanese irises I brought to her room. Her Christian name was Phyllis which, aptly, means “leafy foliage,” or “greenery.”

    A woman who rarely wore fragrance but loved the perfume of growing things, she would have enjoyed the copious lore and history in this article, before her brain injury robbed her of her lively wit and the gift of comprehension. In my mind, as I read it, I was sharing it with the woman who cared for me until I had to take care of her. Thank you, Elise, for inspiring these poignant but lovely memories.

    My iris collection includes vintage Chanel No.19 and Prada Infusion d’Iris, but I would count myself lucky, indeed, to win any of the following, in this order:
    Xerjoff Irisss
    Mythique
    Ambre Alcheme
    Le Labo Iris 39
    Francesca
    (Well, any of them, honestly: It’s spring and my thoughts are turning to flowers!)

  • I love iris perfumes and came upon this post quite by chance as I was searching for information on iris and orris
    The fleur de Lys an iris , the references to royalty and mythology are all new to me
    This is national woman’s month so no better tribute to a goddess that brings messages
    Please count me in I am in USA
    Raymon Monegal impossible iris
    Iris 39 le labo
    Parfums DelRae Mythique
    Amber alcheme
    Equistrius by Parfums dempire
    Thank you

  • Paul Bunch says:

    I learned how to do a love spell with Iris!

    I am interested in any of the perfumes actually, but especially Irisss, Burlesque, Ambre Alcheme, Mythique or Francesca.

  • USA
    T hank you for the draws and the informative and beautiful article!
    I never knew Iris–any part, any variety- – was eaten in a spice mix or chewed on by babies…and until I got into perfumery never thought of Iris as fragrant at all.

    Love the art, especially the connections between Van Gogh and the Japanese irises, and also to me the b&w O’Keefe and Mappelthorpe. They seem kind of like masculine and feminine counterparts, one enveloping, one reaching….Also, I always thought Fleur de Lys was a weird looking lily. Iris makes a lot of sense.

    Was trying to think of something beautiful or profound but am coming up empty–structure escapes me. We have a family friend named Iris and a friend of mine named Irit. I was thinking about them and whether Iris fit their personalities at all, and also about when I picked up a secondhand bottle of Hiris and my grandmother, who was quite ill, complimented me and said it smelled like spring. She loved purple and had a small tile painted with irises in her room, and they were the last flowers I gave her– a bunch of large purple irises with tiny yellowish middles.

    HOM Francesca is probably my top choice because The Maj is so wonderful and reveals a new facet on every wearing.
    next choices:
    Ambre Alcheme, Xerjoff Irisss, MCG Burlesque, Parfum d’Empire Equistrius, Raymon Monegal Impossible Iris, OJ Orris Noir, Parfums Delrae Mythique.

  • What an excellent article! I remember being a young girl visiting my grandmother’s house; It was far from our home, and to my young eyes everything was veiled in a patina of wisdom and mystery. Among all the photos and art there was one painting of irises, however, that I was drawn to without fail. I would slink away from the family affairs in a quiet moment and stand and curiously contemplate it every time we would visit. I had never seen a real Iris in my life, and something about it’s dusty purpled hue, wilted-looking petals, and bright pop of yellow endlessly fascinated me. Purple and yellow became my favorite color combination (just ask my 3rd grade art teacher), and Iris my favorite flower. I realize now that I haven’t thought of that painting in years, but that I remember every detail of it now as it comes to mind. It tickles me that the fluer de lys is actually an iris, because I used to doodle those all over the margins of my notes in classes that were in a bit of a lull.

    What I find most interesting about this stately and elegant blossom is its scent – the seeming lack of it! The iris turns what we understand about the scent of flowers on its head (or on it’s root, I suppose!). We typically think of the fragrance of flowers as a florid advertisement to the world of their beauty and desirability to insects, and to us. We bury our faces in a bouquet and inhale. But the iris is distinct. It’s fragrance is hidden, drawn out from years of careful work in creating the prized orris butter. It mights me wonder how this covert scent was initially discovered (and how common actual orris butter is in modern perfumery!). This compares beautifully with o’Keefe’s work, I think: the sensuality of some women may be hidden at first, but it can be coaxed out of hiding with great care, and its beauty is worth celebration once it is. The coolness of iris is deceptively seductive in this way, and perhaps a woman can engage with this idea, wrapping herself in a hidden sensuality, by wearing a great iris perfume.

    The scent of iris (and most things) was completely irrelevant to me until just a few years ago – I had a notoriously poor sense of smell growing up. Sure, I could tell a rose was different from a jasmine, but that was basically the extent of it. I couldn’t tell the difference between a tuberose and a gardenia if my life depended on it! A few years ago, however, I began taking a medication for an unrelated issue which had the shocking and very happy side effect of returning to me an acute sense of smell! Though I’ve been hungrily consuming all of the scents of the natural world and of fragrance world since, I confess I still have not isolated in my mind the scent of Iris. I’ve grown to love the sense of coolness and austerity it gives to a perfume, but I have much to learn and explore as of yet about its essence, and about the nooks and crannies of its character. I suspect this draw would be just the thing.

    I am in the united states, and my choices are: Xerjoff Irisss, Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, and Tambela Ambre Alcheme. Thank you for the generous draw : )

  • I love the point made about the masculine/feminine duality of iris. I study gender, among other things, and I’m often a bit bewildered by the speed with which many want to declare a fragrance masculine or feminine. I think there’s no note that’s inherently either one…but in some ways, I think that iris is unique by being inherently both. I have some good friends who are transgendered, and I may have to ask a few of them about the note, and maybe introduce them to a few iris fragrances to consider their reactions.

    I also love the fact that the word iris also refers to a structure in the eye or in a camera lens: could this scent in some way be focusing? Or do different perfumers move us to focus on different aspects of it?

    I was recently married, and I very much wanted to wear an iris scent for that, for both symbolic reasons and its divine smell. I picked out the fragrance–VCA Bois d’Iris–very shortly after becoming engaged. When we got married more than two years later, it was during a high-humidity heat wave, and the scent was just too heavy to wear without overwhelming everyone! I’m still a bit miffed about that! 🙂

    There’s no scent that you’re giving away here that I wouldn’t want! That said, Mythique would just barely be my first choice. Thanks for the lovely draw!

  • Sarah Lathrop says:

    I especially enjoyed the part of the article which discussed the use of orris in flavoring food. I had no idea it imparts a raspberry flavor in small doses, that it’s an ingredient in gin or that it is used in Middle Eastern spice blends.

    German iris flowers have such a lovely scent, I wonder if it is possible to capture the fragrance of the flower itself and if that is used in perfumery? I was reading one of my plant books that suggested that when your irises grow beyond the point of dividing and replanting within the bounds of your garden, you should dig the roots in August, peel, slice and sun dry them. It said the rhizome slices from each color iris would develop distinctly different scents after about two months and could be especially useful as a potpourri fixative.

    So many of the fragrances you’ve listed in this contest sound wonderful! The ones I’m most interested in are: Ambre Alcheme, Mythique, Orris Noir, Xerjoff Iriss, and Le Labo Iris 39. The most orris-centric scent I own is Chanel 19, so cool and calming. I live in the U. S.
    Thank you!

  • GregorySop says:

    It may be spring somewhere, however, it was 14 degrees here today in Ohio. As a youth I learned alot of mythology and I was unaware that Iris is a messenger of the gods whereas I knew Hermes (Greek) and Mercury (Roman) were.
    Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris, Iris 39 Le Lobo, Xerjoff Irisss, Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Mythique by Parfums Delrae, Equistrius by Parfum d’Empire, Prada Infusion d’Iris…
    All of these sound nice and received great reviews.
    Thank You. Greg

  • I love the duality of iris: the sensuality captured by the artists mentioned (O’Keefe and Mapplethorpe’s irises are iconic!), and the statuesque, almost aloof beauty of the flower that’s communicated in Japanese woodblock prints and by its use in royal and heraldic crests.

    Messenger of the gods and the harbinger of Spring, to me Iris also stands defiant against the commercial-industrial beauty industry complex that would reduce fragrance to a set of cost calculations and chemical substitutions. You can’t recreate iris root oil in a lab or replace it with a synthetic base, and, although you can now artificially speed up the maturation process, this short-cut’s end product seems to pale in comparison to a well-sourced, carefully considered orris. Natural, niche, indie perfumers … all excel in using iris, where material (in the sense of the presence of something real with a history) carries meaning. To me, iris scents communicate something sublime, natural and earthy but also somehow ethereal, a true presence of something beautiful.

    I would love to win the Xerjoff Irisss since it is my most beloved iris scent; second choices would include Impossible Iris, Mythique, Equestrius and Francesca.

  • No wonder I’ve always claimed Iris as my favorite note in perfumery. Now I have all these wonderful claims to back it up! It is truly a magical flower and to me the epitome of being a complicated woman =) I would honestly give a kidney for a bottle of Xerjoff Irisss (having heard so many wonderful things about it, but never smelled it), Orris Noir, Burlesque, and Parfum d’Empire.

  • Wow, just reading the comments amazes me! People have such intense connections with Iris and orris! So many stories to tell…

    I think what intrigued me most is this quote: “Iris/orris may be thought of as a moon plant for digging into the subconscious or it may be useful for divination and dreamwork.” As a student of natural perfumery I’ve just ordered my first batch of dried orris to tincture and play with and look forward to smelling and blending the results. I’m also gardener and an intense dreamer so I think it would be interesting to create a bedtime blend using orris.
    As April is my birthday month Iris has always been part of my birthday bouquets from my Love (it’s his favorite flower as well).

    I’d be most interested in winning the 2 natural perfumes: Elise Pearlstine 100% NATURAL 15ml Ambre Alcheme and House of Matriarach 15 ml of Francesca.
    Thanks!