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CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery: Etienne De Swardt of Etat Libre D’Orange + Seduce and Provoke Draw

December 2, 2012December 3, 2012

Etienne de Swardt and Michelyn Camen: Elements Showcase January 2011

The first time I met Etienne de Swardt, the founder and Creative Director of Etat Libre D’Orange we talked about roses, sperm and blood. That was the Spring of 2007 at a Beauty Breakfast at Henri Bendel in New York City. Etat Libre D’Orange was one of the few new perfume brands featured alongside the cosmetics and hair care showcased to editors. Standing right next to Etienne was perfumer Antoine Maisondieu  and one of my favorite actresses Rossy de Palma.  Being more star struck than scent struck I somehow managed to have coffee with Rossy.  Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection, the blood tinged rose perfume  created by Antoine Lie and Antoine Maisondieu, was my signature scent for a year (Chandler Burr wore it too) and proof that a celebuscent could be unique, strangely beautiful and wearable. Etienne and I met again three years later; I was with Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale, who wanted to say hello, for another Henri Bendel event (Hosted by Sniffapalooza 2010), with Etienne and Tilda Swinton. There was a display malfunction so we didn’t have time to chat. Etienne launched Archives 69 (see photo) at the first Elements Showcase  2011 and we had another reunion. The booth was so busy we had no time to talk.

Managing Editor Mark Behnke in his review of Tilda Swinton Like This May 20, 2010 wrote: “Whatever your opinion of the line of fragrances produced by Etat Libre D’Orange, boring is not one of the adjectives one hears used often in describing them. In the case of Sécrétions Magnifiques, revolting might be the choice, as the smell of semen and blood is re-created. More often the descriptors used are “interesting” and “unusual”. I am a fan of many of the Etat Libre D’Orange scents because they don’t fear to travel the fine line between unique and unwearable”.

Rossy de Palma-  Movie Muse to Pedro Almodóvar, Fashion muse Thierry Mugler and Perfume muse to Etienne de Swardt

 I am an admirer of Etienne de Swardt and his laissez faire style which is as unique and fearless as Etat Libre D’Orange’s often controversial fragrances. He has  a boyish charm, a certain humility, doesn’t censor what he says nor is he a linear thinker.  During our three hour phone conversation, he told me to take as much creative license with his story as he gives the brand’s graphic designers and perfumers. With a story this intriguing, I remained as faithful as possible to his words.-Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Etienne de Swardt

 At the beginning I wasn’t a creator of niche perfume brands, I was the nasty bastard giving briefs to perfumers at LVMH where I was an executive with Parfums Givenchy men’s perfumes. It was a good learning experience and it gave me marketing and an insiders knowledge of the industry. Then I became a trend consultant to LVMH. My job was try to feed new ideas and concepts to perfumers and marketers that were edgy and exciting. – to create interesting and daring themes for them to explore. I presented quite a few new concepts including the idea of Tom Of Finland, (which I later used in ELDO)  but the LVMH marketers weren’t excited by the concept; it was so edgy and provocative, but the executives thought it was too risky. It was frustrating because I presented many ideas,which was my job and why I was their consultant,  but the Company thought they were too edgy.  For example, I proposed to LVMH marketing a perfume named Lucifer, because I thought Lucifer was an amazing idea. Actually, in Greek Lucifer means “bringing light to human beings”. I thought  that it was a beautiful masculine theme. I proposed the name to Givenchy—and they were in love with that name. Everybody was so excited – but  in the end, they said it was too dangerous for the American market, to sell perfume people associated with The Devil (even if it meant “bringing light to human beings”).

The last concept I presented to LVMH was also the idea that was my first venture as an independent called Eau my Dog (Eau Mon Chien). It was the perfume concept I created with Louis Vuitton and presented to Yves Carcelles (who was then the CEO and Chairman of LVMH) who loved the idea of launching a non-traditional perfume that would be exciting and provacative. I was trying to be disruptive, which is my model: why not do a perfume for dogs?  They said let’s set it up, I made a business plan and production, but at the last minute they backed out. The year was 1999.

 I believed in the idea, as did an old friend, Olivier Echaudemaison, (who was my mentor and after business school introduced me to LVMH and recommended me for the job at Parfums Givenchy where I also worked on Alexander McQueen). I asked Olivier if he would like to join me, and he said it’s a beautiful idea — go for it. He was artistic director of Guerlain, and he stayed a silent partner, but he gave me credibility. LVMH gave me back the idea, and we raised 12 million euros. Eau My Dog was launched May 2000 at Saks, Isetan, Le Bon Marché… 50 countries and 1000 selective doors. It was ahead of the times  and  the economy took a nose dive. But I didn't give up.  In 2006  I launched Etat Libre D’Orange; I was working on the idea of creating a gallery of perfumes.

 

I learned a lot from my years at LVMH and  one important lesson is that you have to be true to the DNA of your brand. The DNA of Etat Libre D’Orange (meaning Free State of Orange — going back to my South African heritage) comes from my past. I wouldn’t be driven by money and focus groups. As a Creative Director it means being true to myself – authentic, shocking and sensual, even if it meant creating disruptive and unlikable perfumes from time to time. Sécrétions Magnifiques was the first in the ELDO line, maybe it is the most memorable, and still to this day evokes strong emotions. Blood and Semen in a perfume may disturb some people, but it told the story I wanted to tell, an animalic and oedipal story about olfactive and gustative sex.

If we want to sum up our sprit, it is sincerity, existentialism, and the French notion of philosophy. It means, if you want to stay alive, you have to create, and if you do not, you don’t exist. It means going against the grain.  We are not just a fragrance brand; we are a true state of mind, of fun, of emotion.

The storytelling at the beginning is more attractive than the perfume. To get a good perfume, you need a range of emotions, outside of the usual expectations.  If I go to the limit, the storytelling is above the scent. In French we say “parolier”, a lyricist. You have a singer, but you also have a guy who creates the song story. Saying the words, being the parolier, that is my job.

It’s how I remember the New Balance brand – the function of the fashion – it’s storytelling over a formulation. 50% goes into the formulation, but you have to nurture beauty with strong storytelling. The source comes from words and ideas and at the end, it’s more vital. You’ll get a beautiful product if you have the budget. Usually that can vibrate with the storytelling.

 ELDO is a brand that excites many Perfumers who want to break out of the corporate constraints of their Companies where they have so many limitations-marketing and budget constraints as well as having to please so many people; Perfumery by Committe. Antoine Lie was the first nose I worked with (Secretions Magnifique) then Antoine Maisondieu did Jasmin et Cigarette. When I choose perfumers I am a bit of a perfumer slut (I am only kidding, I had a lot who were not on core fragrances).  For example: Putain de Palais and Natalie Feisthauer, (who is now a Senior Perfumer at Symrise) wanted to do that scent. She said, “I want to be that slut”. And she’s so conservative! I said, be my slut and go for it.

 

I am not as hands on as some other Niche perfume creative directors. Most of  the time, I give true freedom to the perfumers who create our fragrances; because I believe that they understand the individual story I am trying to tell with each perfume. It's based on the project. It’s the way they talk about the idea and the theme we pick up. For Jasmine et Cigarette, I asked Antoine Maisondieu about his vision of femininity. For him, it was jasmine twisted with tobacco. I asked if he could illustrate – he said, “Do you remember that film Blade Runner by Ridley Scott?  We talked about the film and ideas, and then it was in his hands.

Like This won a French FiFi in 2011

This is what happened with Like This Tilda Swinton – a duet between Tilda and Mathilde Bijouai. I lit the match, and they sniffed and created by themselves. I said, do it the way you feel it. It was truly sincere and emotional — that’s what I call the freedom and the existentialism of Etat Libre D'Orange. 

For our latest fragrance The Afternoon of a Faun – I organized a meeting with Justin Vivian Bond (transgender avant garde singer/songwriter, actor). I met him and he loved the idea of doing something with Nijinsky. I suggested he meet with Ralf Schwieger. He met Ralf; there were no restrictions. In many ways this is typical; many of our fragrances are a result of a chain reaction. When I work with perfumers, as the "parolier"– a kind of ignitor – a catalyst. I have the spark, the emotion and concept, and the others translate. If there is not a chain reaction at the end, if the spark was not good, the fragrance didn’t go further, then it ends.  If I pick up a good inspiration/theme and give freedom and  make the introductions between people, it goes on without me. I try to pick up a theme that can provoke a chain reaction on people. . Back to Ralf, I have worked with him this year on two fragrances Fils De Dieu and Afternoon of the Faun. Ralf is open minded and truly eclectic. He’s an artist who can express and capture the emotion of the concept.

My influences? Comic books, music, cinema – I’m very much a kid from the 80s. My mother was a Greek, Latin and French teacher and my grandmother taught mythology and cinema. My brother is a cardiologist – he saves lives – my mother was a teacher with true knowledge of old texts, like my grandmother. Their influences are there too, but I am very superficiel (meaning of superficiel in French – it means trap and seduce at the same time). ELDO may seem frivolous and inconsequential, but it’s really more than the surface. Unexpected and not suspected –  at the end, by being extremely superficial, I can pick up and master the art of superficiality – like perfume which stays on skin.

One crucial thing – it has to stay fun and maybe cross some lines. My next fragrance will do that in a big way. That is the spirit of  Etat Libre D’Orange and my spirit. That’s the key point.

– Etienne de Swardt, Founder and Creative Director of Etat Libre D'Orange

 

 Thanks to EuroScents USA, the American Distributor of Etat Libre D'Orange we have the ultimate ELDO draw for a Limited Edition Prestige Deluxe Coffret that includes 10ml X16 of the iconic scents: Antihéros, Encens & Bubblegum, Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, Divin'Enfant, Jasmin et Cigarette, Rien, Putain des Palaces, Sécrétions Magnifiques, Vraie Blonde, Vierges & Toreros, Eloge du Traître, Delicious Closet Queen, Je Suis un Homme, Charogne, Nombril Immense, Rossy de Palma. $150

To be eligible for the Coffret: leave a quality comment  with everything you found interesting about Etienne de Swardt as a Creative Director. The coffret is CaFleureBon's pick for the avid fan or the newbie to the brand.

If you have a favorite Etat Libre D'Orange Perfume, or you would rather win a full bottle instead of the coffret, leave a comment as above,  and in the spirit of ELDO provoke or seduce us. Be sure to name the Etat Libre D'Orange fragrance from the 30 listed here. Draw closes December 6, 2012

LIKE CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery Facebook page. Your comment will count twice.

Editor's Note: All images are used with permission of  Etat Libre D'Orange

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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73 comments

  • December 2, 2012 at 8:40 pm
    Mariana says:

    I have so many favorite anecdotes from this
    Etienne calling himself I was one of the nasty bastards doing marketing at LVMH and proposing that Louis Vuitton launch Eau my dog and Givenchy Tom of Finland and Lucifer
    Which IS a great name for a perfume
    Eau my dog had me saying Eau my G-d
    This man raised 12 million euros on a fragrance for dogs shows he must be as convincing a story teller as they come
    Trying to imagine Nathalie Feisthauer in a mini with bad make up
    You are the best Mr de Swardt and even though I detest the smell of secretions magnifique I applause you for masking it before blood concept and lady gaga got into the game
    I am going for the Coffret which has the wondrous Rossy,jasmin et cigarette Rien and vierges
    Great series

  • December 2, 2012 at 8:51 pm
    Liz K says:

    I always love hearing the stories behind the brand and it makes sense that Etienne de Swardt would be very hands off and respectful of the perfumers he works with. How else could one produce such works of art? I can only imagine how frustrating his early career must have been. To be employed to produce new ideas but have to sell them to a large brand must have been torture! I have to admit that Secretions Magnifiques was the first ELDO scent I sniffed and it took all my resolve to delve back into the line but I am glad I have (and I maintain that it is a work of art even if I have no desire to ever smell it again). I have yet to smell many of the scents so I would love to try the coffret. Thank you for the chance for the amazing draw.

  • December 2, 2012 at 9:24 pm
    Venus says:

    Hey you two look cute together
    I am a big fan of the brand and own Like This and bijoux romantique both by the same perfumer
    I lol when Etienne called himself a perfumer slut and found it so interesting he comes from such a scholarly family
    The story about Antoine Lie thinking of Blade Runnwr as the inspiration for Jasmine et cigarette was really interesting
    I recently saw the movie for the umpteenth time and everyone smoked
    It’s the damn future and they were puffing away
    I would love the Coffret because I have yet to smell the infamous secretions magnifique . I always think that this brand has been around forever but I was surprised it is 6 years old
    Please bring back Eau my Dog the pet market is huge and my retriever would love you
    I would like the Coffret as well

  • December 2, 2012 at 9:30 pm
    farawayspices says:

    I felt just a little dizzy with joy at the sight of that prize. I would truly feel like a kid in a candy store with that coffret. I’ve only sampled a couple of the ELDO perfumes, – Noel au Blacon and Like This -and they are so very exquisite and multi-faceted.

    In this day and age of so many companies producing goods simply to to satisfy a test market, I love reading about artists satisfying a passion and a vision. Certainly, Etienne de Swardt is fascinating in his role as the “spark” and “catalyst” of being the one who “lit the match” and setting the creativity of the perfumers and artists aflame. We need more people
    like this to promote the art form of perfumery! I love that he allowed the vision of Like This to be “sincere and emotional”… It truly shows in the perfume…my first thought when I smelled it was “I want to be hugged by someone wearing this.”. It felt that personal and genuine.

    With regard to Lucifer” and “Eau My Dog”…it is too bad these inspired ideas did not come to fruition, but interesting to know about the resistance companies have to projects that they fear might meet public resistance.

    I enjoyed reading about the influcence of comic books. Perfume tends to a serious business, I like hearing about an inspiration source that is more “superficial”…and, I loved learning about the French meaning of superficiel…to trap and seduce at the same time!

  • December 2, 2012 at 10:26 pm
    Silvia says:

    Etienne de Swardt seems like a fantastic guy and who knew his back story?
    The idea that he doesn’t set himself up on a pedestal and gives those around him free range is a mark of a man that is the true director letting the actors in this case perfumers take over
    There are so many perfumers that shine when they have a chance to create for a niche house rather than have to please everyone
    Can you just picture him with story boards for lucifer at a meeting filled with marketing suits ?
    I would love the Coffret …so much to explore

  • December 2, 2012 at 10:34 pm
    Lean S says:

    This is wonderful. I would be a newbie, but I have been fascinated with the brand for a little while now. I truly enjoyed reading this interview.

    De Swardt found the ideal way to present his concepts and creations through Etat Libre D’Orange. I admire that he strayed away from allowing focus groups and monetary gain
    to influence him, or discourage him from his vision. I loved the quote, “If we want to sum up our sprit, it is sincerity, existentialism, and the French notion of philosophy. It means, if you want to stay alive, you have to create, and if you do not, you don’t exist. It means going against the grain. We are not just a fragrance brand; we are a true state of mind, of fun, of emotion.”

    Furthermore, I think the fact that he allows his perfumers great freedom in creating his stories, might allow for such interesting variety in the brand, that I am all the more interested in what Etat Libre D’Orange has to offer. I would love to own the Coffret, and at this point, I am most eager to try Divin’Enfant. Thank you so much for the opportunity!

  • December 2, 2012 at 10:36 pm
    Lean S says:

    I am also a follower of CaFleurebon Creative Directors on facebook under the name “Lean Sa”

  • December 2, 2012 at 10:46 pm
    Nikki C says:

    I thoroughly enjoyed this interview, and in particular found the journey from executive at Parfums Givenchy to Creative Director fascinating. It is always inspiring to read about people who go after their vision, regardless of obstacles, and I really have to commend Etienne’s tenacity.

    I also was struck by the comparison of the creation of scents to the lyricist, or parolier. I find myself drawn to scents and perfumes that tell a story with their development so I found this analogy particularly fitting.

    Having not yet tried anything by ELdO, the coffret would be a delightful treat!

  • December 2, 2012 at 10:46 pm
    sherapop says:

    What a great feature, and what dream give away–winning the coffret would be a dream come true!

    I loved learning about how Etienne arrived at his position of creative director through such a labyrinthine journey! LVMH and Eau de Dog and all, wow!!!!

    Brava Michelyn for this excellent piece of journalism–one of the best I’ve read here! Every word was interesting, and as I think you know by now, I am not exactly the queen of blandishment. lol

    My favorite ELdO creation is Putain des Palaces (“I want to be that slut!” (-;). My least favorite is, well, you guessed it… (-;

  • December 2, 2012 at 11:22 pm
    ggs says:

    Enjoyed reading this interview. I met Etienne several years ago in Grasse on a Sniffapalooza trip. He maintained that some people really _like_ to wear Secretions Magnifique, while I suggested that they purchase it because it is notorious! (I have seen a number of perfumistas actually gag at the smell of SM.) But ELDO is a bold line, and his creative leadership is remarkable. I would love to have a bottle of Afternoon of a Faun, although the coffret is also a very interesting concept. I wore Tilda Swinton, Like This, on Thanksgiving Day. I’ll be following your facebook Creative Directors page as well! (Gail Scott)

  • December 2, 2012 at 11:35 pm
    Dana says:

    I always am a little intimidated when the contest says to “leave a quality comment” and hesitate for a moment. However, I have heard so many interesting things about these fragrances and this is such a generous
    draw that I am not going to hold back. It is refreshing to hear about a company that is not afraid to take risks. I also love the concept of the story behind the fragrance being as important as the scent itself. How generous of Etienne to give so much of his time with a three hour phone call and share his journey to reaching his current position. Thanks to Michelyn for bringing us a wonderful article and thanks to ELdO for such a generous gift. I would be thrilled to win the coffret.l

  • December 2, 2012 at 11:48 pm
    Frunk Inator says:

    I was lucky enough to meet Etienne at MiN NY last year. He really is an amazing person. His passion and enthusiasm for the company and the creations are nothing but heartfelt. I find it so interesting that he gives so much freedom and expression to the perfumers. I love to hear that, as it really defines the perfumes and fragrances for what they were meant to smell like… Not what they were made to smell like.
    Interesting fact, Etienne told me one of his favorites of the collection is Vierges et Toreros.
    My personal favorite amongst the collection is antihero, and I would love to win a bottle before eventually picking one up on my own. I love the traditional lavender and clean musks… Such a classic concept done in such a modern way. And it never fails to get me compliments from both sexes 🙂 Thanks for the draw!

  • December 2, 2012 at 11:59 pm
    Igor Kipnis says:

    Im still discovering this house and I’m sure i’ll find my favorites soon. Thanks for the draw — great idea!

  • December 3, 2012 at 12:46 am
    Datura5750 says:

    Knowledge
    Context
    Fantasy
    Culture
    Pleasure
    Emotion
    Verve
    Frivolity and profundity,
    The strands that runs through this line, and bring joy to us.

  • December 3, 2012 at 1:02 am
    Gnosmic says:

    As a creative director myself, I appreciate and admire the “hands off as much as possible” approach, although I tend to meddle more than I should. The fragrances from this line aren’t sold anywhere in the Seattle area, but among the ones I’ve sampled, I appreciate the mix of crowd-pleasing (Eloge du Traitre) and challenging (Rien).

  • December 3, 2012 at 1:05 am
    Mujo says:

    I love the concept of giving the perfumers the freedom to follow their idea without restraining them. And I like the themes of the perfumes. They are provocative and funny.

    I would love to win the coffret.

  • December 3, 2012 at 2:05 am
    Sandi L says:

    Way to run with the freedom Michelyn, had me hanging on every word. Like each great master in their field Etienne shows the passion to go out on the limb. I am still discovering this line as well and have not tried that many. Being that I (we) are all in good company of many Perfume Sluts I am sure to have many favs from this line. Actually I may not care too much for Secretions I have been told horrible stories, but also have heard some good too. Thanks to all for the great opportunity for the draw. 🙂

  • December 3, 2012 at 2:08 am
    Sandi L says:

    Forgot to say I do follow Creative Directors page as well!

  • December 3, 2012 at 3:18 am
    Esperanza says:

    I love ELDO. Energy, Love, Devotion, Overaries.

  • December 3, 2012 at 5:14 am
    Ela says:

    I love how Etienne is leading Etat Libre in the right direction! At the beginning it was more about shocking factor, now scents are the most important. Like This, Rossy de Palma- these are great masterpieces!
    Hope it’s just a beginning of his creativity

  • December 3, 2012 at 5:24 am
    just breathe says:

    I loved reading about what influences Etienne especially comic books! I am a real newbie to quality perfumes so winning this coffret would be a dream come true!
    thanks for the draw!

  • December 3, 2012 at 5:38 am
    muza says:

    Thanks for the extremely interesting article! Many thing were news to me. Thrilled to learn that Blade Runner was the inspiration for Jasmine et Cigarette!

  • December 3, 2012 at 9:02 am
    Tativa says:

    The first thing that pulled me into the article was the talk of Rossy… a wearable rose and BLOOD fragrance? I can’t imagine blood being wearable and am much intrigued. Because other than the blood this is totally a me scent… I LOVE rose patchouli scents. As well as fragrances that are very counterculture and non traditional smelling.

    And a semen and blood one o.O my mind is just so blown I would love to smell such a racey thing (albiet not sure how much I would wear that on a daily basis compared so some of the others mentioned).

    Then there comes talk of bubblegum perfume… inspired by chupa chups? I give those to my kids all the time as a reward (shuush when you have 70 of them 5 cent lollipops are a god send). My kids sometimes complain about my perfume at work when I wear something perfumey… so something that smells like one of their favorite treats would be a godsend (the two I rotate between they like are gingerbread and pear and roses).

    Noel Au Balcon sounds so delicious as well!

    Also I find it fascinating he started out on the business rather than the creative side. I don’t know much about the perfume business, but my mother has been in the food industry for 30 years and there is always so much friction between the creative and business types. So I think that is great he is able to see both sides.
    I think that is how he is able to pull off such creative marketing schemes for his products! Well versed on both sides.

    I also never knew so many of the brand’s fragrances were celeb ones… with such a high quality name and ideas! I think that is fascinating how they are able to pull it off in such a classy and artistic way.

    I would love love love to win the set! Partly because I’ve been dying to try the brand after they’ve made so many best of lists and such a stir in the article. And partly because I haven’t been able to afford a new fragrance for a while, so it would be such a Christmas treat for me to have 16 new things I can smell of! Much less such thought provoking scents.

  • December 3, 2012 at 9:14 am
    Lori says:

    Where do I begin? I love the concept and staying true to yourself when everyone wants something different, hence Etat Libre! I love the way Etienne Swardt gives the people around him creative license to do what they want is simply unheard of this industry!

    This was a great article! I’m dying to try Secretions Magnifiques as I can’t imagine what blood and semen smell like! Thanks so much for hosting the draw and I’m really hopeful that I win this Coffret so that I can try the rest of the line. Thanks again for the opportunity! 🙂

  • December 3, 2012 at 9:33 am
    Ramona says:

    Wow, great article! It must be serendipity because I am wearing a sample of Like This right now. I would like to apply for a job with Mr de Swardt because he sounds like a great guy and a bang up boss- I have NO perfumery experience- I am a nurse so maybe I could be on hand to revive folks at the Paris Boutique after get a whiff of SM ?! 😉

    As for the Coffret- O.M.G. How generous! Good Luck to everyone and once again, thanks to the kind folks at ELDO and CaFleureBon!

  • December 3, 2012 at 11:09 am
    Irina says:

    Impressive interview- the influence of the maternal lineage on the capabilities to ” spark” a creative process, the magic of words, the philosophy beyond them and the provocation. Thanks for a real insight

  • December 3, 2012 at 12:02 pm
    Elisa says:

    I was so glad to read this: “I wouldn’t be driven by money and focus groups. As a Creative Director it means being true to myself – authentic, shocking and sensual, even if it meant creating disruptive and unlikable perfumes from time to time.” I love the ELDO line for precisely this reason, you don’t love every scent they do, but it’s definitely not all boring and the same. Rossy de Palma is one of my all-time favorite perfumes. There are still a few I haven’t tried so I would dearly love to receive the coffret. Thanks for the draw!

  • December 3, 2012 at 12:12 pm
    brie says:

    I loved learning about the origin of the name-but my favorite thing is the picture of Michelyn and Etienne:always so wonderful putting a face to a name. Thank you both for this incredibly generous draw!

  • December 3, 2012 at 1:07 pm
    Lala says:

    Lovely photo, Michelyn.

    Much as I love the perfume world, it can get so dour, haughty and pretentious at times. ELDO and its irreverence is so refreshing. To all the uptight people who won’t touch ELDO with a ten foot pole because they find the whole concept offensive, more for us, you silly prigs! Yes, such people do exist.

    Bladerunner is on my top ten list of all-time favorite films, so the fact that Etienne used it as inspiration material is not only interesting; it means that J & C is now something that I must test.

    Thanks for the fantastic drawing and fun article. I’d love to have any of the ELDOs except Putain des Palaces, which I already have,

  • December 3, 2012 at 1:44 pm
    Lisa R says:

    This is a line that has gone undeservedly unnoticed by me. I always saw the name and thought… oh citrusy things… subconsciously in my head.

    As usual, Cafluerebon has opened my mind up to more things to open my wallet up to!

    I find it fascinating how racy many of these fragrances are! I would love to try any one of them… although blood and semen mayhaps not in public! I would love to smell this bladerunner ideal of femininity… especially given the jasmine fiend I am. I would love to smell deviations from the traditional takes on jasmine, as well as many other traditional perfumery ingredients.

    From their work to how the company is run, this seems like a company worthy of some attention ^^

  • December 3, 2012 at 2:54 pm
    breathesgelatin says:

    I have never tried any ELDO scents and would most love to try the coffret.

    I found hearing about Etienne’s time at Givenchy, and particularly the creative restrictions that were placed on him, most interesting. We don’t often hear a lot of real stories from behind the veil – so often people can’t speak freely about what really goes on in the world of fragrance development. So interesting to hear about why he left and the artistic freedom he now gives his perfumers and collaborators.

  • December 3, 2012 at 2:55 pm
    sammm says:

    You can’t help but give ELDO credit for keeping things creative. Who else is as dedicated to producing unique and intriguing perfumes as Etienne and the mercurial ELDO crew? I would love to take a whirlwind tour on the brand’s line as presented in the coffret.

    The sci-fi fan I am was wowed by the Blade Runner reference to Jasmine et Cigarette, and I am 100% positive that Etienne could make the most interesting coffee book in the world should the in-depth inspirations behind these perfumes be collected in print at any point. I’m eagerly looking forward to what these potionmasters piece together next.

  • December 3, 2012 at 3:43 pm
    Alisa N. says:

    I used to be a career counselor, so any time I read about someone’s progression through their professional life, it is interesting. It is helpful for me, too, in my own career, to remember how important it is to pay one’s dues in jobs that might not seem as illustrious or creative at first glance–as illustrated by Etienne’s time at Givenchy. The knowledge and experience he gained allowed him to better share the creativity he gets to promote through his ELDO line.

  • December 3, 2012 at 5:50 pm
    JessieB says:

    I found this a fascinating interview on several levels. The range is new to me for the most part — aside from reading reviews on this site, I’ve had no contact with it at all. But I hope that will change, not insignificantly because I’m so incredibly intrigued by the conceptual flights that de Swardt seems to so enjoy. In particular I very much appreciate the idea that a fragrance profile need not necessarily be pleasing or approachable to be wonderful. It reminds me of some of the shorter works of Samuel Beckett: they’re infuriating, but the visceral response is what’s important. However, unlike the Beckett estate, de Swardt offers his perfumers a gift of the freedom to interpret. Wonderful.

  • December 3, 2012 at 5:58 pm
    SujaanNY says:

    I’m so grateful to live in a world where an artist such as Etienne can bring his unique vision to life. Imagine how limited the perfume industry would be without Etienne, and the very few others like him, that push the edges of what we have all been trained to consider fragrance. I know ELDO has pushed me outside my comfort zone at times, and I relish that someone is out there doing just that. I still consider myself a novice perfumista and I am thankful ELDO has added to my fragrance education by widening my perceptions of scent.
    The Coffret sounds like the perfect way to explore this line.

  • December 3, 2012 at 6:34 pm
    FearsMice says:

    I would have imagined that ventures such as perfuming dogs and perfuming people with blood and semen would have been doomed to failure — but this interview allows us to see why in M. de Swardt’s hands these unlikely(!) projects have succeeded. His background, vision, and drive are evident throughout the ELDO catalog. I’d love to have the coffret.

  • December 3, 2012 at 8:07 pm
    Joaquim says:

    Can you believe that I’ve never tried any ELDO? It’s time to solve it, no?
    On one hand, the Blade Runner influence in Jasmine et Cigarette says a lot about the brand, emho, and if it’s true that the first time you read about the line it can sound a bit silly or superfluous, when you read about the, about the perfume itself, this idea goes away.
    On the other hand, I think that the idea of Mr. de Swardt about the % of the storytelling vs the perfume is wrong, I’m a very “german” person in this topic: make the best you can do and let your work talk, I’m not saying that the storytelling is unnecesary, but 50% is too much for me, I don’t care about the story behind the perfume (the history behind the perfume is much more interesting), I want to make my own story with the scent.

    Thank you for the draw!

  • December 3, 2012 at 8:16 pm
    Michelyn Camen says:

    Joaquim
    No ELDO you have been missing out
    In terms of story telling it is something I miss in many perfumes
    Think of Tabu, My Sin,
    In a world of niche numbers and notes I love the stories behind fragrance as long as the fragrance lives up to the story
    You should read the story behind Like This which was inspired by Rumi

  • December 3, 2012 at 8:28 pm
    Claudia says:

    Its great to know that he is not a hands on creative director but gives the perfumers the freedom to create the fragrances for Etat Libre, he believes in that they understand the stories he is trying to tell with each perfume.
    I definitely like my fragrances to be interesting and I can for sure say that this brand has some very interesting fragrances including their names and artwork that adorns the bottles. I am definitely a fan. Do I find all wearable? No, but that’s ok because I definitely found some in this line that suit me. I love Bendilirious, Bijou Romantique, Dangerous Complicity, Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes, Josephine Baker, Philippine Houseboy, Like This and The afternoon of a Faun…..keep up the great work and originality of this brand.

  • December 3, 2012 at 8:30 pm
    Claudia says:

    I forgot to mention that I would actually prefer a bottle which would be Dangerous Complicity, thank you so much.

  • December 3, 2012 at 8:31 pm
    harper says:

    no time to participate —
    but i feel compelled to say that you are a beautiful woman, michelyn 🙂
    (is this ok to say?
    i hope so.
    since it’s true, eh?)

  • December 3, 2012 at 9:07 pm
    GregS says:

    I find the mans history and career experience excellent for what he has done in starting out on his own, especially with his creative sense. However, some of his creations and thoughts are beyond what I would consider an acceptable norm. That being said, there are many that I would like to try. Thank you for this unique draw

  • December 3, 2012 at 9:11 pm
    Amy V says:

    I absolutely love Etienne’s essential standpoint of keeping it fun and crossing lines. To me, that is what fashion and fragrance are all about! And giving freedom to the individual perfumers is so important. I believe it’s the only way to achieve something really innovative and interesting, and the ELDO brand has certainly achieved that reputation.

    I’ve never tried any ELDO scents, as I haven’t been able to find them in Australia yet. The coffret would be a wonderful introduction! I’m dying to try The Afternoon of a Faun, Rossy de Palma, and Jasmin et Cigarette in particular.

  • December 3, 2012 at 11:20 pm
    Tourbillion says:

    I love that he was trying to suggest some very non-mainstream ideas at mainstream LVMH.

    I am interested in ELdO as well, though I am not sure that I would like all of the fragrances! I find it interesting that he is more hands-off, and that he lets the noses create.

    Thanks to ELdO for the generous giveaway!

  • December 4, 2012 at 12:56 am
    mridula says:

    Etienne de Swardt is truly an original So many ideas. The are not all shocking , but many are so original they disturb because of their unfamiliarity. One ends up reacting with a ‘can that be right? Is it even ok to think like that? A perfume for dogs is more startling than his delving into blood and semen. I prefer to be startled rather than shocked. I lie him. He does seem boyish.

    What he has to say about words and story – I couldn’t agree more. Nothing exists without a story and the words that string together the story. The sensual experience of the world is fantastic and animalic. The human experience of the world is its translation into story, which is to say we need meaning for what or senses tell us.

    gutative? What does that mean? I looked it up. It’s not even in the dictionary. But his breadth of thinking makes me believe this is a word.

    I am that newbie and I can’t imagine how give the opportunity to sample everything vs pick one, I’d choose the latter,especially given what I now know about the breadth of thinking and creativity that’s gone into this collection. The coffret please.

  • December 4, 2012 at 8:12 am
    Rebecca says:

    As I am running my own creative business after working at a large company, what engages me the most about this story is the creative freedom aspect.
    How he started out with one of the “giants” and came up with several interesting and novel ideas, only to see them discarded again and again by people in charge, who are afraid of stepping outside the mainstream, wide market segment stuff.
    I am also so happy to read that, since he started his own thing with ELDO, he seems to remember his past, and give the perfumers much creative freedom in realizing his visions. I have only smelled a few of the ELDO fragrances (although I am hoping I’ll win so I get to smell some more!) and they sure are different, both from each other and other brands.
    The brand idea of a perfume gallery seems to be well executedl!

  • December 4, 2012 at 9:29 am
    Laura says:

    What a beautiful prize! I have only tried a few of ELDO’s perfumes, but one of my all time favorites from any house is Jasmine et Cigarette.

    This is a very interesting interview. to learn of his past and his influences – and of Eau Mon Chien, which now I wonder about and wish I could have tried!

    I love this quote:
    “Unexpected and not suspected – at the end, by being extremely superficial, I can pick up and master the art of superficiality – like perfume which stays on skin.” it seems to sum up his whole philosophy, and sometimes superficiality is what people deem as more important – after all, most of the people you meet everyday only see the superficial you. I also try to master that art – I am a hair stylist.

  • December 4, 2012 at 10:41 am
    Cynthia says:

    I got so excited when I saw that coffret that my heart started palpitating, and long story short, I bought it for myself! So I don’t need to win it but I would love to have a full bottle of Putain de Palaces.
    I enjoyed finding out more about Etienne de Swardt. What a creative mind, and he doesn’t seem to take himself too seriously. I like that he gives freedom to his perfumers and encourages collaberation. I found this to be a very entertaining article, Michelyn, thank you!

  • December 4, 2012 at 11:17 am
    Ana G says:

    I enjoyed that fact that he is very creative and very original. ELDO is a very daring brand and excentric.

    I especially love the name of this brand and i find Eau my Dog (Eau Mon Chien) very funny and original. The Coffret sound great!

    Thank you!

  • December 4, 2012 at 11:38 am
    tammy says:

    I should not be surprised to find that the Founder of this extraordinary line is himself so intriguing and seductive.

    What could be more alluring than a man who is daring and creative enough to come up with such an amazing perfume company, while at the same time being confident and humble enough to leave the artists completely free to bring his vision to life?

    I am fortunate enough to own three of these fantastic fragrances…Jasmin et Cigarette. Noel Au Balcon and Archives 69. What I love most about them is that I can make out each note, yet the entire fragrance is also beautiful as one scent. It’s magic in a bottle!

    I’d love to explore more of this magic, so I’d be thrilled to win the coffret

  • December 4, 2012 at 2:22 pm
    einsof says:

    Let me first say that giving perfumers the freedom to interpret and express their vision of a concept is a real gift in the perfume world.

    Etienne sounds very impish and worldy at the same time! Quite like our beloved Tilda Swinton!

    i have never tried ELDO… although i have to say S.M. intrigued me when it launched.

    perhaps the best way to understand the line is the coffret.

    thank you kindly for the wonderful draw!

  • December 4, 2012 at 2:48 pm
    Kathryn says:

    Etienne de Swardt is the God of creativity and bold choices. I can only imagine how much frustration he must of felt at the beginning of his career, being held under the constraints of mainstream perfumery. I’m glad that he now has his own brand in which he can experiment to his heart’s content. I must say, edgy scents are the new thing. Everyone wants to own and wear that little something that is different from the rest. I can always rely on Etat Libre d’Orange to surprise me. This article has actually made me want to order a sample of Secretions Magnifique. It’s more to do with the art-like concept rather than the scent.

    My favourite ELDO scents are Fils de Dieu and Vierges et Toreros. I would absolutely love to win this gorgeous coffret.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • December 4, 2012 at 3:54 pm
    thescentinel says:

    This just goes to show that if you believe in your art strong enough, your dream can come true.
    I believe Etienne’s whimsy and unique outlook on the concepts of ELDO’s perfumes is remarkable.

    It’s wonderful to hear that he gives perfumers free reign and clearly, a lot of trust and recognition.

    I would love to have this coffret as a part of my collection. I share Etat Libre D’Orange with so many people, if only just to show them the risks people are willing to take for their art.

  • December 4, 2012 at 5:28 pm
    Karin says:

    Wow! This is an awesome draw! I have only had the opportunity to try Like This from the ELDO line, and have wanted to try the others.

    I love that Etienne was not intimidated by the suits at LVMH, and continued to present fresh, daring ideas. It’s disappointing that the larger houses do not take more risks; though, I’m so happy to see smaller companies rebelling against the status quo and delivering truly interesting, edgy scents. So glad that Etienne was able to start his own company, and find success in it. It means his instincts were correct!
    We WANT edgy!!!!

  • December 4, 2012 at 8:41 pm
    lethe says:

    I think that the name Lucifer is brilliant. So sad to hear they refused to go with that one. I believe that young people who have already proven their talent and creativity such as Ettiene should be given absolute freedom in these kind of things. That is what moves the company forward.

  • December 5, 2012 at 12:22 am
    tammy says:

    PS. I am positively compelled to add that as thrilled as I would be to win the coffret, the true thrill would be to sample Etienne, no? My balcony is quite full, mon chéri, and 69 IS a good number! 😉

  • December 5, 2012 at 1:31 am
    Nick Ley says:

    I admire how Etienne de Swardt pushes the envelope, and thinks outside the box. His edgy style is very unique, though sometimes strange. I’m glad he is able to express his true style through his Etat Libre D’Orange line. I like the idea of having no restrictions when creating a fragrance.

  • December 5, 2012 at 3:20 am
    Laura W says:

    Good for you sir, for having the ‘balls’ to shake things up a bit in this wild world of perfumery. My nose brings me joy, memories and revelation all of the time. I am thrilled to dive into you scents with reckless abandon. I could use some Putain des Palaces to release my inner slut! kiss kiss Can’t wait for the draw!

  • December 5, 2012 at 5:07 am
    Lorraine L says:

    I find Etienne to be inspiring for all creative endeavors. I will refer to this interview when I need to bolster my courrage.

    The only ELdO I’ve tried is Like This and I love it.

  • December 5, 2012 at 5:41 am
    Tony says:

    I am impressed by the fact that he is true to the DNA of the brand and not driven by money and focus groups. SM is definitely a fragrance which will be the talk of everyone at same point. .. the coffret looks really nice and a gem for keeping. Thanks for the draw!

  • December 5, 2012 at 11:34 am
    MariaA says:

    I love the creativity and freedom of this brand, I haven’t smelled most of them but the ones I did stuck to me and will definately buy a FB of them. I am the avid fan type!! I think his idea for the Lucifer fragrance and the Eau My Dog stories great! His background and upbringing was unexpected !!! I do hope h makes a perfume based on Mylene Farmer’s personality at some point!! Perfect combination!

  • December 5, 2012 at 1:46 pm
    etienne de swadt says:

    Thank you so much for your wonderful comments on our creations. This is very supportive for Etat Libre d’Orange here in Paris and our team. It’s quite funny that Secretions Magnifiques stays one of the main focus in the range; it’s a difficult creation, not a best seller but certainly the most intriguing from the scent itself to the story telling related to it. It’s an “oedipien” scent based on viral risk and transcendental love; Antoine LIE was so good translating the attraction/repulsion of a “full frontal” love regardless of all consequences.
    We try to stay sincere & existential in all our creations giving 50% of the production cost to the scent. To date Etat Libre d’Orange is not a money maker, not yet corrupted by return on investment. We are still a pure machine of existentialism and fun even if we have quite often difficult Mondays. Still crusading for the best of perfumes.
    best regards to all amateurs of perfumes, let’s explore together the more “risqué” side of perfume
    Bise
    Etienne still Free of Orange

  • December 5, 2012 at 1:59 pm
    Michelyn Camen says:

    Etienne stopped by to thank all our readers for their support.

  • December 5, 2012 at 2:12 pm
    Tama says:

    I don’t need to be in the draw, because I already have this fabulous coffret, but this was a really fun read! Thanks, Etienne!

  • December 5, 2012 at 2:29 pm
    Amer says:

    ELDO has an amazing company profile! Again it is so interesting to get to hear about the person responsible for the planning behind the image. I like how this article combined with the interview of Christopher Chong reveales how different strategies result in distinctively different products. The personal touch is very important. I loved the comparison with the role of parolier and I believe it says it all.
    What I found most touching though is this quote: “To get a good perfume, you need a range of emotions, outside of the usual expectations”. this is something that tends to get lost amidst all the talk about ingredients.

    PS: Lucifer is latin for “bringer of light”, the greek word is Eosforos “bringer of dawn”. Similar but different. It is a pitty that such a strong concept was burried. Perhaps the Greek name that is not so strongly associated with religion would do for a ELDO fragrance???

  • December 5, 2012 at 3:15 pm
    Zee says:

    Learning more about the employment history and the connections built up before the launch of this brand was an eye opener! It was also nice to get a better understanding of the history of the brand name, the South African free state of Orange was something I had never heard of before this interview. I have explored several fragrances in this brand and really loved Tilda Swinton Like This but I would get more wear out of a full bottle of The Afternoon of a Faun Mx Justin Vivian Bond’s collaboration with the brand which I was lucky to sniff recently and fell in LOVE with.
    Thanks for such a great draw!

  • December 5, 2012 at 3:46 pm
    Devon H says:

    Oh the coffret looks amazing!!! Etienne is like this magical perfume matchmaker – it’s amazing to me how he comes up with a concept, crossing some lines and shaking things up, acquires a “muse” and matches them to a perfumer, et viola! Magic happens. I am deeply in love with my bottle of Rossy de Palma, and I would flip to get my hands on that coffret to experience all of his fabulous scent concepts. Thanks for the draw!

  • December 5, 2012 at 5:21 pm
    ccc says:

    I am not a newbie to the brand but an avid fan. I tried many of Eldo fragrances, own few of them and without any doubt I can say they are far from boring.

    After reading Etienne’s interview everything makes sense. The concept, the influences, the creative process and the marketing.
    I admire him for not giving up and for managing to survive in the LVMH environment. I am not surprised they didn’t embraced his ideas … they don’t go against the grain.

    I can’t wait to try his future creations and am sure all of them ” will not fear to travel the fine line between unique and unwearable” as Mark so well said!

    Thank you for the draw! It is extremely generous!

  • December 5, 2012 at 10:43 pm
    Bonbori says:

    Fascinated by his role at Givenchy and his ideas for projects Lucifer and OMDog (IK, Eau my dog) – both have playful duality like later Etat Libre d’Orange projects. I also love that he gave Swinton and Bijouai freedom to create the fragrance they want. Like This is so evocative, and sensual and intellectual at once. I like some analysis to go with my hedonism. Should I win I’d love the coffret. Thanks for the draw.

  • December 6, 2012 at 9:27 am
    mim666 says:

    Thanks for this generous giveaway and review! please excuse the length of this comment.
    I read this and thought, okay, there is so much interesting stuff here (and comic books as inspiration clear from pkg) that naming what I like is easy:
    As creative director, Mr. De Swardt is “a kind of ignitor – a catalyst. I have the spark, the emotion and concept, and the others translate.” That sounds like the coolest job! I liked hearing all the creative ideas he came up with at LMVH especially Lucifer (yeah, not in the American mainstream market…) and also liked hearing how he kept getting shot down, because it seems like every time he got pushed down he pushed back even harder and refined his vision of creativity.

    Favorite line: “if you want to stay alive, you have to create, and if you do not, you don’t exist.”

    But, I would like to talk about my favorite scents and win a FB of something not in the coffret since I have sniffed/spritzed most in there. I love Fils de Dieu–thanks for the sample! will finish and probably buy a bottle either split or solo–along with Rien, Charogne, Nombril Immense, Noel au Balcon, Rossy de Palma, and SM.

    Would like to win a FB of Tilda Swinton Like This, have been meaning to sample since before it came out but somehow never did. Sounds amazing.
    How, though, could I be provocative? Don’t think I could be seductive…at least not in writing.

    Reading though the comments, I kept seeing people talking about Secretions Magnifique (which is the point, it is the provocateur of this edgy line) and ‘this almost turned me off eldo’ was second only to ‘i can’t believe people actually *enjoy* wearing this.’

    Reader, I bought it.
    This was the scent that turned me on to the line and awakened me to its creative potential. I had gone in to sniff Putain and didn’t see what all the hype was about (needed the drydown). Tried Jasmin et Cigarette but at that point was a jasmine-hater so no go.

    Then…. that awful, glorious bottle.
    Sprayed on a tester. Inhaled. Felt compelled and repelled at the same time, but whether I loved it or hated it and only sniffed because it was interesting I did not know right away (admittedly am the type to sometimes say ‘wearable’ in a bad way but am working on that especially since reading Secret of Scent and appreciating the work that goes into fragrances which don’t feel inspired or artistic to me. but getting back to spurting…)

    I walked around a bit holding the strip and sniffed other things but didn’t find anything worthy of armspace (you guys KWIM right?) so…sniffed again…most interesting thing there and I liked it more and more.

    So I sprayed on myself. Two or three times. Then met a friend for dinner, al fresco because it was a warm, humid summer evening. (looked, but there is no appropriate emoticon for knowingly wearing SM in a sultry environment with other warm bodies in close proximity)

    Granted we were outside and I had walked around a bit. But never got any comments pos or neg or funny looks either. My friend hugged me and seemed okay. I was almost disappointed, except could not stop sniffing myself.

    My initial impression: Dirty/human/metallic but not fecal and not really urinous either, human in a way I had never before or since smelled in a perfume.

    I have a rule about finishing a sample/decant before buying a FB so got a rather large split of SM. I sniff the cap more than I wear it but have indeed worn it.

    In the spirit of things, I decided to wear it again, today, after a bath, liberally applied, and see what happens….

  • December 6, 2012 at 10:32 am
    Subbie says:

    It’s a blessing to leave perfumers free reign over creations and I believe it can generate incredible scents that would never reach the market otherwise. I am always amazed how marketing “experts” are trying to tell perfumers what they should change in their formula to “make it better.” It would be ridiculous if I went up to a lead guitar player in a famous rock band and told him to play less notes. Experts at a field develop their own style, but only if they can explore their style. Thank you, Etienne.

    I am interested in the coffret. Thank you!

  • December 6, 2012 at 10:35 am
    d3m0lici0n says:

    Really one of the best interviews, everything is so fascinating, from his begginings at Givenchy, then pitching ideas and then ELdO. It was like a natural thing. And the line is fun, always interesting and provoking. Really hoping to see more interesting releases from them. Personally is my favorite interview.

    Thanks.

  • December 6, 2012 at 11:13 am
    Michael says:

    It was a treat to learn more about Etienne de Swardt, his background and experiences in the fragrance industry. What a shame that his unique and edgy ideas were not embraced sooner. I love that we see more of him through ELDO. The freedom given to the perfumers is inspiring, and I think a really great way to unleash brilliance, based on the ELDO scents I have smelled. I always look forward to hearing about their new products being launched and the stories attached to them.

    The coffret is an amazing draw, and an awesome way to experience all that ELDO has to offer. Thank you so much for the generous draw and a wonderful insight into Etienne de Swardt.









 





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