BRAVE NEW SCENTS A Natural Perfumers Guild Project: “Duty Free” by Neil Sternberg + Draw

 “Are you sure it’s safe here?”

“Safe enough.  The Canadians jam everybody near the falls.”

 

“They said this would be my most important message yet.”

“They weren’t lying, son.”

The old man unscrewed the head of his cane.  By several unexpected motions, a metal cylinder fell out.  He opened the cylinder, revealing three vials of liquid.

“Where do I put it?”

The old man tapped the young man’s right calf with the cane.

“Inside your prosthesis.”

“What is it?”

The old man smiled.

“A biological weapon, according to regulations.”

“Is it?”

“No. It’s an information weapon.”

“What kind of information?”

“Biological.  Emotional.  Historical.”

“I don’t get it.”

The old man opened one of the vials, carefully.

“This is for you. Smell it.”

“Is it safe?”

“No.”

The young man laughed.  He leaned forward, inhaled deeply, and recoiled.

“What the hell is that?”

“Think.”

The young man suddenly felt scared.

“What’s going on?”

“Think.”

His face showed recognition. Then horror.

“You’re drugging me!”

“No. I’m making you remember.”

“Oh God. Something is wrong.”

“Yes. Something is wrong.”

“You’re deconditioning me!”

“No. You’re deconditioning yourself.  Let it happen.”

“No!”

“You’re thinking. You want to remember.”

“Stop it!”

“Don’t fight it. You want to remember.”

“Oh, God.”

“What do you remember?”

The young man clutched his chair. He froze. He stood up. He sat down. He grabbed the vial like a thief.

“I remember!  My father!  But….. He’s smoking a pipe!”

“Where are you?”

“The study. Wood!  And paper!  I smell it!”

“Those were books.”

“He smelled like this?”

“Yes. Go on.”

“Is that alcohol?”

“It’s cognac.  Keep sniffing.”

“Something that smells like outside. Only more.”

“It’s hay. And flowers. And soil.”

“Why did I forget? Why am I remembering?”

“You were conditioned to forget your parents. You were taken away when they went into secret detention.”

“My parents?”

“Yes. Your real parents. They’re dissidents. Your subconscious anger is why you joined the revolution.”

“What’s going on?”

“You’re going to help us get these vials to your parents.”

“Why?”

“To help them remember, too.”

“What is this stuff?”

That vial is called Hermes. It’s a perfume.”

“No it’s not.  Perfumes don’t smell like this. They smell…..”

The young man suddenly realized that perfumes – said by the Party to smell like All Good Things – smelled like nothing.  The old man shook his head.

“Perfumes don’t smell like this any more. They can’t. But they did.”

The young man held up the vial.

“What’s in it?”

“Only natural things.”

“But everything is natural!”

“No. You’ve been lied to. Even your food is largely synthetic now.”

The young man looked confused.

“You’re going to sniff these three scents. That’s our back-up plan, in case you’re caught. You can still describe them.”

“How? How do you describe a smell?”

“You can draw, can’t you?”

“Sure.”

“Draw pictures of your youth. Those pictures will be enough to break your parents.”

The young man was excited.

“Let me smell the others.”

 


“This one is for your mother.”

“What’s it called?”

Jessamine.”

“What’s that?”

“A flower from the South.  Where she grew up.”

“Why?”

“She’s a writer. We want her to remember her youth.”

“It smells strong.”

“Hold it further away. It’ll smell more like the flower.”

“Wow. It smells good enough to eat!”

“Citrus candy, eh? It also smells like jasmine.”

“No it doesn’t.”

“Real jasmine. Not the chemical they call jasmine now.”

“It makes my eyes water. Am I allergic?”

“No you’re not. Smell again.”

“Damn. It smells like something.”

The old man pulled out a picture of some yellow flowers on hanging vines. The young man looked at them.

“It’s the vineys!”

The old man quickly produced another picture – an old porch with a swing, covered in the same vines.

The young man covered his face and began crying. The old man patted him on the back.

“We thought you would recognize your grandparents’ house.”

 

 

 

“This one is for my father?”

“He once stayed up all night with his parents – to see a meteor shower. They were in a garden in the Middle East. Night-blooming jasmine, roses, and a jasmine bush called juhi. We’ve combined those scents with your mother’s gardenia fragrance. The one she wore as a newlywed. This one contains real sandalwood, ambergris, and tobacco.”

“Real tobacco? Isn’t that illegal in Canada?”

“Not for natives.”

“Wow. Let me smell.”

“Be my guest.”

“It smells alive!  Like live plants!”

“Good. That’s the effect we wanted.”

“What’s it called?”

New Dawn.”

“Wait. I’ve heard that before.  Where?”

“Think.”

“Was it my father?  Something he did?”

“Yes. It’s the movement he led.  Before his arrest.”

“I remember!  They were at my house. All the people.”

“Now you know why we call it the Jasmine Revolution.”

 

 


 

 

 

As they approached the border crossing, the old man stopped at an old bronze statue.   He pondered it.

 

“They say there are many universes.  An infinite number, actually.  In many of them, none of this ever happened.”

“Would you want to live there?  In one of those universes?”

The old man shook his head.

“No.  I’d rather fight to save this one.”

“Me too.”

The old man smiled and patted the younger one on the back.

“Good.  Let’s get you to the crossing.”

“Lets.”

The old man took one last look at the statue.

“Although, it might be very interesting to live in a world where that statue is Tesla, and not Edison.”

The young man laughed.

“Alternating current?  Don’t be ridiculous!”

 

 

 

Hermes – by Adam Gottshalk

A rich, complex, green scent with natural liqueur notes.  Woody, earthy, boozy, rosy, and comforting.  It feels like olfactory déjà vu.

 

Jessamine – by Charna Ethier 

 

A deep, seductive, naturally sweet floral, evoking romantic evenings on a vine-covered porch in the South.  Jasmine harmonies buzz like cicadas.

 

New Dawn – By Rohanna Goodwin Smith

A natural multifloral extravaganza that evokes a cool, dewy garden, warmed by the first rays of dawn.  The promise of a new day, captured in fragrance.

 

Neil Sternberg, Contributor aka "The Redneck Perfumisto"

"Bottle of mine, it’s you I’ve always wanted! Bottle of mine, why was I ever decanted? Skies are blue inside of you, The weather’s always fine; For There ain’t no Bottle in all the world Like that dear little Bottle of mine.”
– Aldous Huxley, Brave New World, Ch. 5

Michelyn Camen Editor in Chief

 

We’ll be reviewing all ten fragrances in the Brave New Scents project over the next 24 hours. Any comment left on any of the reviews will be eligible to win  any of the seven fragrances. We have 15mL flacons of Hermes by Adam Gottschalk, Jessamine by Charna Ethier, Royal Lotus by Anya McCoy, Enchant Parfum by JoAnne BassettNew Dawn 5ml  By Rohanna Goodwin Smithand   1/2 ounce wild rose by Jane Cate Ambre Alcheme by Elise Pearlstine. The draw will  end  October 7, 2011.

 

The participating perfumers are:

Adam Gottshalk of Lord Jester

Ambrosia Jones of Perfume by Nature

Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden

Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume

Christi Meshell of Matriarch

Elise Pearlstine of Belly Flowers

Jane Cate of Wing and a Prayer Perfume

JoAnne Bassett of JoAnne Bassett Perfumes

Liz Cook of One Seed Company

Rohanna Goodwin Smith of A Scent Natural Perfumes


Participating Bloggers are:

Cafleurebon

All I Am – a redhead

Feminine Things

The Perfume Critic

Perfume Shrine 


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36 comments

  • Neil! That was wonderful! So imaginative and descriptive. Good job. Made me want to smell them all.

  • Its wonderous, what a beautiful story you have woven Neil…New Dawn reminds me of a StarHawk novel or any of my favourite Sci Fantasy novels, Hermes and Jessamine shades of Dr Who Fringe and Phillip Pullman’s stories. I’m transported, thank you and I’m attracted to all of them!

  • Thanks for the vivid story. It is quite the experience of familiarity and other worldliness!

  • Just superb! Thank you for the read. I often think to draw my imaginations when I sniff a fragrance as every fragrance has an association.

  • What a novel and unique way to write about fragrance! I thoroughly enjoyed this review! The fragrances all sound fantastic!

  • Wonderful! Great story Neil. What a wonderful thing to read first thing in the morning. You really captured the heart of the project.

  • This is awesome. Nice and uplifting. Hermes makes me want to smell like booze mostly because its Octoberfest and I have it on the brain:)

  • Thanks, friends! I was fortunate enough to get my samples before my first trip to the falls, so I made sure to take them with me. I really enjoyed them – smelling truly natural fragrances as I took in the sights, and thought about this project and the future of perfumery.

    Hermes reminded me of my father and his academic friends when I was a child. His best friend lived in an old house cluttered with desks, bookshelves, and overflowing with journals and books. All of these guys smoked pipes. The smell just took me back to that moment. I would hesitate to call the scent masculine, because that would be so limiting and unworthy as an adjective. So I would say that it’s comforting in a way that men really enjoy, but also any woman who feels the romance of the library, the fireplace, or old furnishings. I thoroughly enjoyed it. There is a complexity and a character that synthetic perfumery simply can’t touch – the difference between old tweed and nylon. It’s like the H.G. Wells’ time machine, on the rug by the fireplace.

    Jessamine is truly an exemplary natural floral – I feel lucky to have been picked to sniff it. It has just the right balance between simplicity and complexity that is needed to capture that moment when you sniff a real flower and are pleasantly surprised by what you had hoped to smell becoming reality. It has very romantic feel – I could just imagine the movie with the hero and heroine on the porch and the cicadas in the background. The combination of components yields something greater than the sum of the parts – what really smells like a single flower, but in profusion. And – importantly – a real flower. This would smell wonderful on any woman. OK – it smells great on a guy – I’m wearing it right now. But on a woman….. Yes! I also like that it holds its scent very nicely. It starts out great and never falls of the track. I think that Jessamine is – in many ways – what all the modern fruity florals would be if they could be put through some magic “naturalizer”. I highly recommend it to anybody who enjoys that genre but is disappointed by perceptions of synthetic notes. Jessamine not only doesn’t have synthetic notes – there aren’t even any out-of-tune natural notes (which is pretty hard to do). Gotta say bravo on that.

    New Dawn – I have to agree with Rohanna when she says it’s grounded in ancient traditions. It’s just classically good. Yet there are also some new tricks. I like the way that the floral opening and heart are peppered with fresh green notes that lift it up, rather then earthy green notes that are more often present in natural florals. I thought that really fit the name. They gave it a cool feeling that I just enjoyed thoroughly. But that slightly peppery freshness segues gently into the warmth of the base, and particularly the tobacco and sandalwood notes – I just loved it when those became apparent. I’m actually a fan of Aussie sandalwood because of its spicier character, and I think it makes New Dawn a particularly nice floral for guys, who are already gonna love this for the jasmine. (Full disclosure – my wife disagrees – she thinks New Dawn and Jessamine are very feminine – ahh – what does she know? 😉

    Overall, I’m very impressed by all the scents in this project. They seem like they’re horning in on territory that synthetic scents used to dominate. I’m not sure whether to attribute it to the better palette of naturals now available, or the growth of natural perfumery as a school and a discipline. It may be both. No matter what, there is something that seems to be escaping mainstream perfumery of late, and I’ve gotta say I’m finding it here.

    I’m going to review some of the other scents in the project – I think they may help me figure out what’s bugging me here. Some of them are just disturbingly good.

    Anyway, thanks again for your nice comments, people. It was truly a pleasure letting these scents inspire me! 🙂

    -Neil

  • New Dawn sounds divine, and I’m always a fan of collective efforts that are artfully put together.

  • Wow! all of them sound really cool , but Hermes is the one that caught my attention. Great job Neil!

  • I love dialogues, and these were masterfully done! I laughed out loud when I read “but isn’t everything natural?” and “smell it from a distance”. Jasmine, I can only enjoy it from a distance. Can’t stick my face right to it.

    All these sound amazing, but New Dawn had me with its description and its name. “Because tomorrow there’s gonna be a brighter day…”

  • oh neil, how marvelous!

    and i truly want to smell this “hermes” perfume.
    it sounds absolutely wonderful (and like my father — a knize ten wearer btw — and my childhood, as well 🙂

  • Wow, “Hermes” definitely has my attention. (Though they all sounding lovely !) The way you’ve described it sounds like it has all the qualities I enjoy from a ‘fume. I’ve actually been meaning to sample Adam’s frags, but not yet got around to it. “Hermes” sounds just like the boost which will finally propel me to do so.

  • Thanks again, people!

    I really hope that those of you who are interested in it, get to smell Hermes. I was just looking at Adam’s blog, and though he has enough components on hand for some juice, he’s having to procure more of two of the harder-to-source components.

    Whatever happens, don’t worry – it’s worth the wait! 🙂

  • I just read this, and I really enjoyed it! What an interesting take on scent. Hermes sounds just wonderful!

  • Wow. Just wow. This is some of the best perfume writing I’ve ever read. Thanks! Jessamine sounds like something I’ve been looking for all my life.

  • what a wonderful way to introduce scent! I love the projects done by the natural perfumer’s guild, and this one is undeniably interesting! I am especially touched by Jessamine (I love Jasmine, if I had to choose a flower to represent me, that would be it) and New Dawn sounds fantastic. I’m from the Middle East, so it hits close to home!

  • this was such a nice read. i was so interested, i want to know where the two are coming from, what’s going to happen to the young man and where the old one will go back to…. really really nice and creative.
    and the perfumes… my mouth waters with all the wanderful things my imagination brings up when trying to envision how they smell.

  • i immediately ran to put on Cloudbusting and Experiment No4 from kate bush and reread ! this was such an engaging read- thank you for such immediate transformation.

    made all the more secretive and special as i know some of these perfumes will be very rare: Hermes case in point. i believe adam said only 1/4th cup left?!

    and an awakening, as always, which follows the unfolding of botanical perfume. so well put.

  • I enjoyed this reading a lot. It was like a tale 🙂 And the end is great! If I understood it right, it reminds me of Fringe series LOL

  • I have been longing ti find a jasmine scent that doesn’t go sour on me. I have high hopes for Jessamine…my fingers are crossed!

  • Wow, you almost made me cry…..useing the text from “Brave New Worlds” really hit on EXACTLY what we natural perfumers are trying to do…a scentual revolution to reawaken the lost memories and connections to the real natural world around us! That was just beautiful!
    Now I would so love to hear what pictures my perfume calls up for you…..
    Way to go!

  • Thanks for this nice readung. So far Hermes seems to be my favourite. Nevertheless all entries have their own unusual angles.

  • Laura Matheson says:

    Beautiful reviews. I’d be thrilled to win a bottle of any one of these! Thanks for the opportunity 🙂

  • Hello Neil

    Thank you for your beautiful review of my perfume ‘New Dawn’. As well, I extend a big thanks for your support and participation in our Natural Perfumers Guild’s Brave New Scents project.

    Your review truly captured my intention in the creation of my perfume. I appreciated your comment regarding how ‘ the floral opening and heart are peppered with fresh green notes that lift it up, rather then earthy green notes that are more often present in natural florals’ . And how that ‘ really fit the name’. Lovely.

    Being the only Canadian perfumer in the Brave New Scents project, raised in Ontario on this side of Niagara Falls, I loved your creative storytelling- such a fresh new twist to a review. I am imagining you leaning on the rails overlooking those majestic falls while inhaling and contemplating the various scent strips you had in hand. What fun!

    Like the old man in your story, I’d rather fight to save this universe also and trust I am doing my small part in’ the Jasmine revolution” by immersing myself in the beauty and promotion of natural aromatics. And Neil, may you continue to be bugged by ‘disturbingly good’ natural perfumes.
    Thank you again.

  • Wow Neil, I loved the images you created with your words. You inspire the imagination. All the fragrances sound amazing and I am certainly keeping my fingers crossed.

    Thank you for your most entertaining review!

  • Denise Smith says:

    It made me wish I had a cane just to hide secret viles in!
    It also made me think back to places I grew up around,
    like the front porch, back yard gate. Lovely review and
    I would adore any or all of the perfumes.