In 2005, perfumer Geza Schoen (Geza Schön) changed the olfactory landscape with his introduction of Escentric 01 and Molecule 01. Over the past 11 years, I have interviewed Geza numerous times for CaFleureBon as well as for other publications. If anyone would have asked me that “Iso E Super in a bottle” would become one of the most well-known niche fragrances in the world back then, I would have been skeptical. Geza told me a few years ago that he was testing ingredients in his lab and just dabbed on Iso E Super before going to a Night Club. Women were attracted to the scent and asked where they could buy it.
It was a Eureka!!! moment and thus the Escentric Series 01 (A CaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece) was born; it sounds so simple but no one had done it before Geza. “The Escentrics are different again as there neither was any restrictions or a time schedule really so for example 01 took 5 years from the very first idea to the finished product. It started in Paris in 2001 via London and ended in 2005 in Berlin.” –Geza Schoen
Escentric 02 (Ambroxan) 03 (vetiveryle acetate) and 04 (javenol) followed; I encourage our readers and viewers to read my interview here.
15 years later we go Behind the Bottle for the upcoming launch of Escentric 05 and Molecule 05-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
Michelyn Camen: What was the genesis for Escentric 05 and cashmeran, from a creative standpoint?
Geza Schoen: All molecules I chose need complexity. Most or let’s say at least 99% of all aroma chemicals need other synthetic or natural products with them to conquer their linear olfactoric appearance. Cashmeran has got that capacity. First of all it is kind of a hybrid between a woody and a musky ingredient. Secondly I see a piney note and even a slight fruity note in it. Ultimately it is always the molecule itself which leads to the concept of the corresponding Escentric fragrance. I was able at various stages of the year to observe the smell of a Mediterranean island with its changing natural notes and aromas. after one year it dawned on me that cashmeran would be the perfect base for a fragrance which embraces a summery atmosphere in the hills close to the coastline. Especially the dry and resinous woods towards the end of the summer ooze this particular scent which is key to the creation of Escentric 05.
What are the differences between Escentric 05 and Molecule 05?
Geza: Well as always the molecule version is a singular aroma chemical in a bottle. Escentric 05 is a light fresh woody scent with corresponding notes of herbs, florals and resinous balsamic notes. It is not sweet, sticky or fruity yet the focus is on the darker side of these end-of-summer notes I watched over and over again. It does not have a marine note either. I tried again and again from every new base to incorporate a sea breeze, it didnt work, I always perceived this as artificial, can’t have that.
In 2005 when you became the first perfumer to overdose Iso E Super did you realize that brands that use solely or predominately synthetics would become trendy?
Geza: I dunno, I guess a good perfume still has to be made with both, naturals and synthetics as a fusion to bringout the best of both. Synthetics give you those linear bricks to build the skeleton of the scent; the naturals provide the soul, the flesh and the irreplaceable complexity. As far as I am concerned only chemical or only natural in a fragrance doesn’t work properly (other than these few aroma chemicals to qualify for the Escentric molecule series.
What took so long between launching 04 and 05?
Geza: hahahaa, but it didn’t! It was only three years since Escentric 04 ! Between 02 and 03 there was even a gap of seven years. (Michelyn explains hundreds of new perfumes debut each year, Geza is non plussed).Look we are still only a handful of people who run Escentric molecules and I have a daughter of 3 and a half now who is very present in my life now plus all sorts of other requests I have to work on etc. well: apologies !
Thanks to the generosity of Escentric Molecules we are offering a bottle of both Escentric 05 and Molecule 05 for one registered reader in the UK, USA EU or Canada. You can register here. Please leave a comment regarding what you learned from my interview with Geza on Escentric 05 and Molecule 05 for and where you live. Are you familiar with his other fragrances in the series. Be sure to watch Geza speak about Escentric Moelcules 01 on Instagram @escentric_molecules. Draw closes February 29, 2020
LIKE Behind the Bottle Q and A on Facebook and your comment will count twice. Please leave that in your comment. Follow the link here
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @escentric_molecules
all photos courtesy of Escentric Molecules and Geza Schoen, Geza Schön ©
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
Note: SRP $150/100 ml, $85/ 30ml with Alloy Case for both Escentric 05 and Molecule 05. They will be available late March in USA through Lucky Scent https://www.luckyscent.com/brand/308/escentric-molecules