Image of Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro courtesy of the brand
The world of artistic perfumery is in constant flux, shifting like celestial bodies in an ever-expanding cosmos. At this year’s Esxence (my report part one here, two here)I witnessed a gravitational pull toward olfactory territories that challenge traditional constructs. Among the luminous stars of the exhibition, one fragrance shone with a spectral brilliance—Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro. Created by Julien Rasquinet, this composition is more than a fragrance; it is a statement of intent, a herald of a new olfactory movement where the interplay of natural and synthetic materials bends the boundaries of expectation. The name Chromodoro suggests something resplendent, an impression of warmth and luminosity. Yet, rather than indulging in conventionally solar notes, Rasquinet orchestrates a tension between nature’s verdant irregularities and a futuristic, metallic shimmer. The result is a perfume that evokes both the primal and the industrial, a chromatic spectrum oscillating between ripened green and burnished steel.
From the outset, one is met with a striking tomato leaf accord, a verdant, slightly bitter verdure that feels startlingly fresh yet inherently nostalgic. The tomato leaf is a fascinating material in perfumery—it carries the scent of earth warmed by the sun, of crushed summer vines, of something raw yet deeply comforting. In Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro, it is presented with near-photorealistic clarity, yet it does not exist in isolation. The note is both supported and subverted by an undercurrent of metallic sheen, an almost olfactory synesthesia where the sharp, tangy freshness meets the cold bite of steel.
Image of a tomatoes on chrome by Karl.
The introduction of metallic facets in Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro is emblematic of a larger shift in contemporary perfumery. Once considered too avant-garde, too polarizing, metallic notes are now being woven into compositions with remarkable sophistication. This is not the brash, industrial clang of aldehydic excess but rather a refined, almost chromatic interpretation of metal—an effect achieved through both modern synthetics and natural extracts manipulated to reveal their hidden facets.
Rasquinet’s expertise lies in balance. In lesser hands, metallic accords can become coldly aseptic, devoid of emotional depth. Here, however, the metallic elements feel textural, a subtle glint running through the verdant composition, like sunlight reflecting off a blade. This is the beauty of perfumery’s evolving lexicon: the ability to create illusions not through outright mimicry but through abstraction, through olfactory suggestion rather than mere representation.
Image of Julien Rasquinet of CPL Aromas courtesy of the brand.
A defining feature of Astrophil & Stella’s ethos is their harmonization of natural and synthetic materials, a philosophy that Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro exemplifies. While the tomato leaf brings a raw, organic freshness, the composition does not shy away from molecular precision. Here, synthetics are not employed as mere fillers or amplifiers but as essential structural elements that allow for a broader, more dynamic expression. The metallic nuances, for example, could be derived from synthetic musks with an almost quicksilver luminosity, or from olfactory constructs that mimic the cold facets of certain natural materials. Such interplay creates a fragrance that feels simultaneously rooted in the soil and suspended in an almost futuristic space—a scent that bridges nature and machine, past and future, tradition and rebellion. We are moving beyond the era where innovation is solely defined by excess or opulence. The modern perfumer is no longer simply a creator of pleasure-driven blends but a composer of contrasts, of tensions that speak to the human experience in new ways. The juxtaposition of tomato leaf’s green irregularity with metallic shine suggests a dialogue between the organic and the industrial, much like the world we inhabit today—a world where nature and technology are not opposing forces but interwoven realities. If Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro is any indication, we are entering an age where perfumers are unafraid to explore the spaces between tradition and the avant-garde, where unusual materials such as tomato leaf, ink, and metals aren’t eccentricities but integral parts of perfumery’s expanding olfactive language, Julien Rasquinet has once again proven that true artistry lies not in replicating the past but in forging something new. In Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro, we catch a glimpse of 21st century’s perfumery’s next horizon.
What makes Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro significant is not just its olfactory profile but what it represents—a turning point, or at the very least, a signpost towards perfumery’s evolving aesthetic consciousness.
Notes: Basil Oil, Tomato Leaf, Angelica Root Oil, Blackcurrant Bud Abs, Jasmine Abs (Egypt), Juniper Berry Oil, Gin Accord, Rum SFE, Wormwood, Sandalwood, Musk, Vetiver.
Disclaimer: Bottle of Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro kindly supplied by the brand. Opinions are my own.
Karl Topham, Senior Editor.
Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro by Karl©
Thanks to the largesse of Astrophil & Stella and Indigo Perfumery we have a 50 ml tester bottle of Chromodoro for one registered reader in the EU or if you live in the USA we have a tester bottle courtesy of Indigo Perfumery. To be eligible, please leave a comment describing what strikes you about Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro based on Karl’s review, and where you live (EU of USA). There is only one winner. Draw closes 3/17/2025.
Please read Julien Rasquinet in his own words in his Young Perfumer Essay here. Karl‘s review on In Extremis along with his reviews Nabati and Madame M here. J’s essay on A Night At The Opera here. Please read Lauryn’s review of Sweet Pulp.
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