Arquiste Venice Rococo (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) 2024 + The Lovers Rendezvous Giveaway

 September 1757, Casino Venier Venice A Lady receives a Cavaliere, by Pietro Longhi, The National Gallery (London)  Arquiste Venice Rococo image from the brand

In a hidden alley in the heart of Venice lies a small ridotto, a secret apartment for intimate affairs. “- excerpt of brand copy for Arquiste Venice Rococo

Venice,1757: The Lovers’ Rendezvous

Gazing into her gilt looking glass she dresses. Her boudoir is scented with roses of such dark red they are almost black. Gazing in her mirror, she touches her powdered hair, nudging an artful tendril over her left shoulder. A pert ladies’ maid brings a pot of rouge and fastens a nosegay of orange blossom to her lady’s wrist. The tall windows are flung open to the night, candlelight flickers across the gilded ceiling. Fog skims the cobblestones like processions of ghosts as the clock in the Campanile dei Santi Apostoli begins to chime. A man’s footfall on the back stairs and then the soft knock at a door hidden behind the arras…

Arquiste Venice Rococo, a softly animalic, powdery retro-modern floral, surprised me by. Venice Rococo is inspired by cosmetics that were popular in Italy in the 1700s. The fashion of the time was artifice, with whitened skin, often lightened with lead or mercury, painted brows, and rouge made frequently from vermillion or carmine.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Carlos Huber of Arquiste

Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Carlos Huber

Now, I’ll be frank: powdery fragrances are not usually my thing. So, at  first sniff I shrugged. Venice Rococo initially came across as a very well-done face powder scent but not something I would wear. However, I know that perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, working again with Arquiste owner Carlos Huber, doesn’t do boring. I sprayed again, rather more generously this time, and gave it a bit more time. And I was glad I did. With its intricate combination of flowers and animalics, Venice Rococo opened into a complex vintage-modern floral, the kind of fragrance for which Flores-Roux has few equals. Not only is it a beautifully composed creation, but Venice Rococo’s evocative recreation of historical makeup, animalics and aldehydes makes this fragrance feel like a time traveling daydream.

Her heart quickens as she reaches for the crystal bottle on her dressing table and hurriedly touches a scent of orange blossom and jasmine to her décolletage, which mingles with the aromas of powder on her rouge-flushed cheeks. The maid curtsies and slips away, turning back momentarily to smile slyly. He awaits. She crosses the cavernous room, past frescoes of lascivious putti and garlanded goddesses, her silk gown whispering across the floor, and raps at the door three times. He enters, throwing his hat upon a low chair and pulling her into the long embrace of lovers throughout time. As she gives herself to the kiss, nimbly, he begins to unlace her gown, then her corset, burying his lips in the curve of her neck and breathing in her scent.

Arquiste Venice Rococo opens with a huge puff of powder with the specific smell of the kind of finely milled face that cosmetics houses produced pre-war. If you’ve ever got hold of one of those old Guerlain jeweled powder boxes, you might have picked up its linger: rice, chalk, orris powder, perhaps a hint of rose. The iris come out in a silvery filigree of metallic and cool facets. Aldehydes extend the lightness of the opening and aerate the fragrance until the base notes come out. Soon, there are dabs of those sex kitten flowers, orange blossom and jasmine. The animalic threads that run through the perfume start to manifest about now along hawthorn, with its whiff of old-school corn syrup lollipops; sweetish, grassy chamomile, cumin (here, quiet but adding a warm spiciness), and civet. The effect of the old school face powder and iris mixing with these less conventional flower notes is magic – elegant with an edge of eroticism.

Arquiste Venice Rococo

Image of Arquiste Venice Rococo courtesy of the brand

At the heart is a truly lovely, fluffy rose that feels as though it is opening in slow motion, eventually joined by dark, velvety violet. The delineation of the flowers is remarkable, each clearly discernable, yet working harmoniously with their sisters. The animalics, which could have overpowered the delicate notes of the top and lush heart, are restrained, bringing an adult sensuality to the composition without ever teetering into vulgarity. The base is ambery and rounded; the drydown unexpectedly long-lasting, the iris and powder notes persisting along with the animalic facets for many hours.

Casino Venir Venice

Detail from Casino Venier by Carlos Huber

Venice, 1757 The Lovers Discover’d

A clop and shuffle of buckled shoes outside; a man’s low voice, thick and gruff with authority, orders his manservant to help him from his sedan chair. Suddenly, an urgent pounding at the chamber door; it the pert maid coming to warn her mistress. The master, newly home and a week early, has seen the lover’s horse in the stable and the lady is discovered!  Hurriedly, he throws back the bedlinens and struggles into his breeches. She grabs the garments strewn about the floor and stuffs them beneath her coverlet, stopping only to don a green silk wrapper. Below, her husband calls loudly for her. She turns to her lover, and he, cupping her face in his hands, meets her lips once more before disappearing into the secret passageway.

Today, 2024

I judge my liking for perfumes by whether they evoke a craving. All  day, I have been wanting to reapply Arquiste Venice Rococo to experience its development anew. This is quite possibly the loveliest powder-iris fragrance since Malle’s Iris Poudre. Wearing Venice Rococo late into the evening, I feel a desire to listen to apply a tiny black love patch to my cheekbone, light some mirrored candles and listen to Couperin. If I make it to Carnevale next year, I know what I will be wearing.

Notes: Roman chamomile essence, Turkish rose water (upcycled proprietary production), hawthorn, aldehydes, poudre à la Maréchale powdery accord, Moroccan orange flower absolute, black violet accord, Indian cumin essence, animalic amber, iris germanica extract, civet accord, jasmine absolute “vintage.

Disclaimer: Sample  of Venice Rococo kindly sent to me by the brand. My opinions, as always, are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

All images courtesy of the brand unless otherwise noted. 

Best Arquiste Perfumes

Arquiste Discovery Set

Thanks to Arquiste, we have a A Discovery Set with five samples: Misfit, a Fragrance Foundation winner for best indie fragrance in 2021; the gorgeous Indigo Smoke, sexy Sydney Rock Pool, and two new offerings, A Grove by the Sea and Venice Rococo above for one registered ÇaFleureBon reader in the U.S. only. Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Lauryn’s review of Arquiste Venetian Rococo. Do you have a favourite Arquiste perfume? Draw closes 08/03/2024.

You can purchase Venice Rococo on the Arquiste website here

Launching officially August 1, 2024

We congratulate Arquiste who won their second Fragrance Foundation Award 2024 for L’Or de Louis in the Indie Category. Arquiste Misfit received a Fragrance Foundation award in 2021.

Arquiste Anima Dulcis is a ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece. Read Ermano’s article.

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22 comments

  • roxhas1cat says:

    Thankfully cosmetics have come a long way since the 1700″s. Seems like powdery fragrances are making a comeback. I’d love to smell one of those old Guerlain powders. Really curious that this is the best since Iris Poudre. My favorite of the line is Anama Dulcis and Architects Club. I’d love to win this sample set to re-visit some of the older ones. I’ve been anxiously awaiting my local shop to get A Grove by the Sea in. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    It’s nice to see a new fragrance inspired by a retro 1700s Italiian cosmetics. I haven’t tried anything by Arquiste, but Sydney Rock
    Pool has been on my radar for sometime now. I live in Maryland USA.

  • I am also not normally a fan of powdery fragrances, but I seriously enjoy things that feel historical or vintage and this sounds like a full story instead of just a tube of lipstick in a leather purse (other makeup scents I’ve tried…). My current Arquiste love is Indigo Smoke: WHAT a beauty!

  • Arquiste is by and large on of my favorite houses. Misfit, Nanban, The Architect’s Club, Indigo Smoke, and Sydney Rock Pools proudly sit at the top of my collection. Rodrigo Flores-Roux is a true master in my eyes, and with the vision of Carlos Huber he manages to create some of the very best fragrances in today’s market. I love the way they effortlessly nod to vintage perfume through a modern lens. I will definitely be trying Venice Rococo soon. Should my comment be chosen, please “spin” again and let someone else experience this wonderful house. I just wanted to offer my praise for this brand. Best of luck to you all.

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    This was a very fun article. I like the way she admitted not like powdery perfume but enjoyed this. I’d love to try it and I live in Indiana.

  • I own so many Arquiste with Nanban and The Architect’s club my favorites. Venice Rococo normally, like Lauren wouldn’t be something I thought I could like, but ” This is quite possibly the loveliest powder-iris fragrance since Malle’s Iris Poudre, has me curious. I hope that Grove by the Sea will be reviewed

  • David Furman says:

    Im not all the way into powdery scent but when done right there are some masterpieces. For example when iris is used in the mid it stays throughout the life of the frag. It gives that buttery smooth and some say even lipsticky vibe. I’m becoming a fan of rich and soapy rose openings and mids. The clean and velvety vibe is always welcome and sought after. I love the design of the bottle but I wonder if it’s more feminine in its appeal. Please let me be the proud owner of this, from Jacksonville, NC.

  • I love hearing that Venice Rococo reaches toward the cosmetics of the time. Powdery Cosmetic scents are a favorite. This is a must try for me. As far as Arquiste goes I have tried Nanban, Misfit and Architects Club. My favorite so far is 57 for Jcrew. But I have a feeling I may have a new favorite soon. I live in the US

  • I like retro powdery florals. I don’t think I’ve tried one that has added animalic accords. The powder and iris mixed with the jasmine, orange flower and rose on the amber and civet base sounds mesmerizing. I’ve tried the Indigo Smoke from Arquiste before and love it, MD, USA.

  • I love the duality of the review! makeup history is a passion of mine and this sounds like a gorgeous smell…a puff of a daydream. I’ve smelled L’Or and I love it. I would love the chance to smell more from this line. Utah, USA.

  • Dubaiscents says:

    As soon as I read about this I knew I needed to try it. I adore a retro vintage powdery floral scent (bonus points for animalic notes!). Lauryn’s admission that she doesn’t normally gravitate to powdery scents and yet enjoyed Rococo makes me sure this will be a winner. I would love to get this sample set because I’m behind on trying these newest releases from a brand I admire, Arquiste. Thank you! US

  • I so agree with Lauren in that RFR doesn’t do “boring.” Every composition of his is varied and interesting. This scent sounds like one that would keep revealing new facets of itself over time.

  • Ouuuuu, finally! I feel like I mention iris in most of my posts because I’ve been profoundly disappointed with the past 10 years of iris releases. Especially the ones with ‘iris’ in the name (glares at Acqua di Parma’s white floral citrus bomb: Iris Nobile).

    I know the lipstick and powder perfumes aren’t everyone’s jam, but they’re my jam. I typically wear them at home or put some on my throw blankets because it’s a comfort thing for me.

    I think any little girl born around the time I was (+5/-300) had a fascination with their grandmother’s makeup, jewelry and such. Powdery perfumes remind me of my grandmother but not in an old-lady way. Rather, she was a very progressive and cool woman; breathtaking beauty, abundance of grace and could fight like a large man (despite being 95lbs).

    This sounds amazing and especially because it appears to be something I can wear outside, too, without risking offending other noses around me.

    Fabulous review as always!

    -Lo
    USA

  • What I liked most about the article was not so much the description of the fragrance, though it was beautifully and artistically depicted, but the reminder to all fragrance lovers to not be too hasty in dismissing a fragrance but to reapply and give time for the elixir to evolve into what it was created for. Well done

    LuRon, Washington, USA

  • This review was a timely followup to your recent lipstick fragrances list, which featured at least one powdery fragrance. Arquiste Venice Rococo is notable for its historically-minded style—animal florals, aldehydes, powder—but also its “less conventional flower notes” like hawthorn and chamomile alongside cumin. The balance between animal edge and stately floral sounds deft as well. I haven’t tried any Arquiste perfumes yet, though this review makes their lineup seem very intriguing.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Oh my goodness wow. Well I love a great powdery fragrance because when done right it’s like nothing else!! I absolutely adore poudre d’automne by maison Violet but sadly it’s discontinued. I have to say that a lot of this review and the notes are reminding me of it and if it’s half as good you will have a life long fan! I am especially keen to try the discovery set as I keep hearing great things and haven’t yet tried this house. I truly hope this one is meant for me. Thank you for the chance, I am in the US.

  • foreverscents says:

    I am a big fan of Nanban from Arquiste. That is one of the most transporting fragrances I can think of. It was also composed by Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Lauryn’s review also transported me the boudoir of a Venetian noblewoman, preparing for a tryst with her lover. I like discovering old compacts with the powder still intact. I get a subtle animalic note from them. Oh, how I’d love to wear Venice Rococo while attending Venice’s Carnival….someday.
    I live in the USA.

  • joetelegram says:

    Lauryn’s review of Arquiste Venice Rococo beautifully captures the fragrance’s blend of historical elegance and modern sensuality, making it a perfume that transcends time. Her vivid descriptions evoke a craving to experience the intricate powdery and animalic notes firsthand, highlighting the artistry behind this captivating scent.

  • I love Lauren’s description of Venice Rococo being a fluffy rose joined by dark, velvety violet. It sounds rich and decadent. Arquiste has been on my radar for a while. I’ve sampled The Architects Club and I’ll have to say it was a true beauty. I’d love to try more. I’m in the USA

  • I’m not a fan of overly powdery fragrance but your description sways me. Who wouldn’t want to enter for a giveaway❣️ I liked how you discreetly -house