Photo by Enrique Badalescu for Metal magazine
“So take a good look around
The misfits are everywhere”
— “Misfits” by The Kinks
Image of paisley shawl via Arquiste
It all had to do with the rise and fall of the shawl. Ornate fabrics from Kashmir in early Victorian England, gracing the shoulders of many a lady and more than a few bohemians. To protect against pests on the long sea journey, merchants folded patchouli leaves into the fabric, and soon, the aroma became a mark of authenticity. A fashion and perfume trend was born. But, as fashions changed, shawls fell out of favour and patchouli went with it until it revived as the counter-culture hippie scent par excellence of the Sixties.
Image via Arquiste
Now, Arquiste creative director Carlos Huber and Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Vice President of Perfumery for Givaudan, re-imagine a sophisticated yesteryear patchouli for the 21st century, reclaiming its woody elegance from a decadent past. Arqusite Misfit celebrates patchouli in all its loamy, damp woods, musky glory, “making the undesirable desirable again.”
Carlos Huber, founder of Arquiste, testing with Rodrigo Flores-Roux over champagne, Saint Germain-en-Laye, France 2017. Photo courtesy of Arquiste
No one is more imaginative and adroit at layering historic fragrance styles with modern ingredients than Flores-Roux. For Arquiste’s stellar El and Ella, he channeled 1970s Acapulco with such specificity that I could almost hear a samba beat pulsing by the poolside. Here, he mixes two fractionated patchoulis with old world aromas of French lavender, amber and balsams. Misfit could have stopped there and been an admirable retro patch, but Flores-Roux weaves these timeless elements into a modern construction that includes moreish notes such as tonka bean, carrot seed, and ambrette. What emerges is a scent that could have been sported by both Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde; rakish and refined, a polished woody oriental with an animal edge.
Image of paisley shawl via Arquiste
Arqusite Misfit declares its presence with an unexpected, look-at-me-dammit blast of bergamot and bold, smoky lavender. Almost immediately after, the woody patchouli grabs hold and hugs the lavender in a tight clinch that emphasizes the smokiness of the flower and autumn soil smell of the dried leaf. It is perhaps surprising that the denser, woodier notes don’t subsume the bitter citrus, which stays bright and sharp, offering a sparky counterpoint to the mulchier aromas. At this juncture, Misfit is Hyde all the way.
Ad for ITV’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde
But then the notes quiet from a boil to simmer as disheveled Dr. Jekyll adjusts his necktie and smooths his hair. Burnished rose makes its sinuous way through the middle section, escorted by rather dandified touches of sweet angelica and carrot seed. The smokier, brasher notes of the opening settle down and give space to the earthy patchouli that begins to spread out across the floral notes. The composition sweetens and rounds thanks to some late-arriving, milky tonka bean and ambrette. Smelling Misfit now, it would not be out of place wafting from gentleman’s pocket square.
image via Arquiste
A long while later, Rodrigo Flores-Roux shows how just sophisticated patchouli can be. Its differing characteristics come forward most clearly as Arquiste Misfit starts to dry down, its edges softened by tolu and cistus; there’s cut tree branches, moist forest soil, a bite of bitter chocolate and a hint of animalic muskiness. As I hold my wrist up, these facets fit together like puzzle pieces, distinct yet coherent. With its hint of animal under the polish, and its refined take on patchouli, this Misfit will be welcome in any time.
Notes: Calabrian bergamot essence, carrot seed essence, angelica root essence, French lavender essence, Bulgarian rose essence, ambrette seed absolute, akigalawood™, styrax, patchouli (proprietary combination of two fractioned essences), Spanish cistus concrete, Venezuelan tonka bean absolute, tolu balsam.
Disclaimer: Bottle of Misfit graciously provided by Arquiste. My opinions are my own.
— Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Editor’s Note: This is the 14th fragrance in the Arquiste Collection and Arquiste Misfit marks 10 years of Carlos Huber’s collaboration with Rodrigo Flores Roux. Congratulations !!!-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
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