Perfumer Calice Becker in collaboration with Carlos Huber composed ARQUISTE Indigo Smoke photo© Carlos Huber
I have known ARQUISTE founder Architect and designer, Mexican born Carlos Huber for over a decade and the team at ÇaFleureBon has reviewed every fragrance since the collection of “Olfactive Architecture” debuted in 2011. Each ARQUISTE perfume begins with a brief that describes a place and a date. “May 1646, Wuyi Mountains, Fujian” is the coordinates Carlos gave SUPERSTAR Calice Becker, master perfumer and director of Givaudan Perfumery School for ARQUISTE Indigo Smoke. Before we watch Steven’s video, thanks to Carlos Huber, we have an insider’s look into the creation of ARQUISTE Indigo Smoke –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Michelyn Camen: Why did you choose Calice Becker for ARQUISTE Indigo Smoke?
Carlos Huber: I have known Calice for years. She and I were introduced by Rodrigo Flores-Roux and we became friends. I loved the sheer beauty in her work and I felt she understood my interest in history and olfactive recreation. She’s an incredible perfumer that creates bold, modern work that retains a certain sensibility, a charm that is her own. Being a close friend of Rodrigo’s and Yann Vasnier’s made it all stay within the family. That’s sense of closeness very important to me. Rodrigo was my teacher. That relationship as mentor and mentee is never going away. Calice is a new member in the ARQUISTE family.
What raw materials inspired you, any of them somewhat unique and why China?
Carlos Huber: Calice was super interested in Lapsang Souchong and showed me a preliminary accord that was captivating. I decided to do a deeper dive and find out more about the smoking of tea leaves in China and that led to the discovery of the Indigo Smoke story.
Is there a connection to Mexico the way Nanban had, or is it an era that fascinated you?
Carlos Huber: Not to Mexico precisely, but there is a connection to the history of trade and how cultures and people meet through it. Lapsang souchong was created by the Chinese and sold to the Dutch, which then made it popular all-around Europe. It’s this movement of raw materials- be they spices, flowers or tea that fascinates me. How things made it from one part of the world the other. It lets us know no culture can self-isolate. We must build bridges, because we all need each other.
Indigo Smoke Notes: lapsang souchong tea, maté tea, mandarin orange, bergamot, apricot, cassia, carrot seed, cedar leaf, vetiver, guaiacwood, incense and pine tar.
ARQUISTE Parfumeur won The Fragrance Foundation Indie Perfume of 2021 with Misfiit.
You can read Michelyn’s Interview with Calice Becker here and please read more about Carlos Huber here
Disclosure: Steven received a bottle for this review, Michelyn a travel atomizer; opinions are their own
Video Editor Steven Gavrielatos reviews Indigo Smoke
Thanks to Carlos Huber we have a 7.5 ml travel spray of ARQUISTE Indigo Smoke for a registered ÇaFleureBon reader and Redolessence subscriber. YOU MUST REGISTER and leave a comment on this site with what you thought of BOTH MICHELYN’S WRITTEN INTERVIEW AND STEVEN’S VIDEO REVIEW of ARQUISTE Indigo Smoke USA ONLY. If you want your comment to count twice, please follow us on our Instagram page @cafleurebonoffical. Draw closes 10/24/2022 but will be announced within 2 weeks after.
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